Written and photographed by Peter DeMarco

Hwasun, a large county about an hour southeast of Gwangju, looks like any other in Jeollanam-do. People call this area the “rice basket” of Korea. Wide-open terraced fields wedged between green rolling hills are all around. Farmers sit on wooden platforms under trees to escape the sun. A lonely car passes slowly down an empty road. It’s the anti-Gangnam, the origin of Korea’s slow movement. For those willing to venture beyond Gwangju into Korea’s deep south, the intrepid traveler will find two of Korea’s hidden stone gems.

Hwasun Dolmen Park: Korea’s Stonehenge | 화순 고인돌 공원

They are nothing more than huge boulders. At first glance, you probably won’t be that impressed. The stones aren’t even propped up to form table-like structures similar to the ones at Stonehenge. But when you imagine people digging the boulders out of quarries, dragging them across the land, and placing them above graves almost 3,000 years ago, it makes you think. After you realize that you are standing in the middle of an ancient cemetery, and you feel the energy from one of the world’s most sacred sites, you begin to understand why this place is special.

A dolmen is type of megalithic (meaning “great stone” in Greek) tomb. There were megalithic cultures all around the world, in Europe, Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. Most people don’t know that Korea has more dolmens than any other place in world. In fact, 40% of all the dolmens in the world are on the Korean Peninsula. Although they are scattered around the country, most of them are found at three burial sites: Hwasun, Ganghwa, and Gochang. All three locations are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Hwasun Dolmen Park is in the middle of the countryside and runs through a small valley. There is a building at the entrance of the park that houses some excavated burial sites. A dirt road and a walking trail go through the middle of the park. It’s the perfect place to have a picnic, too. Bring your own food and drinks, though.

Unjusa: A temple like no other | 운주사

Like the dolmen park, Unjusa Temple is famous for stone, or rather, for what has been made with it. All around the temple grounds are dozens of stone Buddha statues. These aren’t your typical statues though; they are made from slabs of stone and propped up against the hills. The faces are flat and expressionless. You begin to wonder if they were even made in Korea.

Probably the thing that most people come to see is the massive reclining Buddha carved into the top of a hill. A number of stone pagodas pop up all over the temple grounds too. They are three, five, seven, and even nine stories high. All together there are about 91 stone Buddhas and 21 pagodas. Not much is known about the temple’s history. Who built it and when is still a mystery. It’s an unusual sight and should make the list of any Korean temple tour.

Stay>
Gwangju has plenty of accommodation options. At the top end there is the Ramada Plaza Gwangju (T. 062-717-7000; KRW 200,000). There are a number of motels to choose from just around the bus station. For something a little more interesting, hop in a cab from the bus station and tell them to drop you off next to the Migliore department store in Chungangro (KRW 5,000). It’s the city’s most happening hood, filled with restaurants, shops, bars, and clubs. A block down from Migliore is the Windmill Motel (T. 062-223-5333; KRW 35,000), which has basic clean rooms. If you are coming in by train, the Napoli Motel (T. 062-514-9080) is a couple blocks from the station.

FYI>
www.hwasun.go.kr/2011/en

(Hwasun-gun, Jeollanam-do | 전라남도 화순군)

GO>
Getting to Gwangju: It’s best to make Gwangju your base and explore Hwasun county from there. There are seven trains a day leaving from Seoul Station to Gwangju, and buses leave every 10 minutes.

Getting to Unjusa and the Hwasun Dolmen Park: Take bus 218 or 318 from the main bus station in Gwangju (Gwangcheon Terminal, about 1 hour 30 minutes). Not all of the buses go to Unjusa though, so be sure to confirm with the driver. The same buses also stop at the back entrance of Dolmen Park. If you hike the 2 kilometers or so to the entrance of the park, you won’t find any bus stop there. The only options for getting to Unjusa from the main entrance—where the excavated burial tombs are—are to hitchhike, hop on a passing tour bus, or call a taxi (about KRW 20,000–30,000).

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Courtesy of Gwangyang City Hall

Seomjingang River constitutes much of the borderline between Jeollanam-do and Gyeongsangnam-do. The word seomjin literally means “toad ferry.” According to legend, a swarm of toads blocked the invading Japanese army from crossing the Seomjingang River into Jeollabuk-do in the 1590s. Walking along the miles-long river embankment brings back fond memories of the past. A wide variety of animals are found along the river, including European otters. There is an otter observation point along the way. In Gokseong County, the Seomjingang National Astronomical Observatory welcomes tourists and aspiring space scientists alike.

EAT>
A nice and hot bowl of jaecheop soup is definitely worth trying. The shellfish grows only in fresh water of the highest quality and is widely known as an effective hangover cure in Korea.

SEE>
A traditional village attracts keen attention as it is designed to revisit a folktale based on Sim Cheong, a filial daughter who offers herself for sacrifice in return for the well-being of her blind father.

DO>
A famous steam locomotive line for tourists runs along the river for 15 minutes. To catch the train, visit Seomjingang Train Village 섬진강 기차마을 (T. 061-363-6714, www.gstrain.co.kr) in Gokseong County, where you can also opt for rail bikes.

STAY>
Various lodging options, including modest motels and log homes, are available.

FYI>
www.simcheong.com
www.gokseong.go.kr

(Daap-myeon, Gwangyang-si, Jeollanam-do | 전라남도 광양시 다압면)

GO>
Take a bus for Gwangju Terminal at Central City Express Bus Terminal. Then take a nonstop bus for Gurye at Gwangju and get off at Gokseong.

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Courtesy of Gurye County Festival Promotion Committee

Courtesy of Gurye County Festival Promotion Committee

Gurye Sansuyu Festival | 구례산수유꽃축제

The winter snow has yet to melt off the high Jirisan peaks, but already the sansuyu cornel tree villages located on the foothills are painted a brilliant golden yellow. The Jeollanam-do town of Gurye will hold its annual Sansuyu Festival March 29–31. Sandong Township, the festival site, is home to the country’s largest colony of sansuyu trees. The flowers are made into tea, alcohol, and food, all of which can be sampled at this festival. The festival wouldn’t be complete without a hike on Mt. Jirisan to really appreciate the yellow splendor blanketing the mountain.

EAT>
The local treat at this time of year is the crabs that brood in the area connecting the river and sea.

SEE>
Gurye is also home to the ancient Hwaeomsa Temple 화엄사, which houses four National Treasures of Korea. Come here to visit the head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism.

DO>
Satellite events include a ceremony for a good harvest, traditional music concert, singing contest, fireworks display, and much more. Visitors can take leisurely walks around the area and take a dip at the nearby hot springs.

STAY>
A wide diversity of accommodations, including the upscale Songwon Resort 송원리조트 (T. 061-780-8000, www.swresort.co.kr), are available near the hot springs.

FYI> T. 061-780-2727, 061-780-2390
htttp://sansuyu.gurye.go.kr
(Jirisan Hot Spring Tourist Site, Gurye-gun, Jeollanam-do | 전라남도 구례군 지리산온천관광단지)

GO>
From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus to Gurye. Travel time is over 3 hours.
From Gurye, take a local bus bound for Sandong and get off at Sandong Hot Springs.

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Courtesy of Gwangyang City Hall

Courtesy of Gwangyang City Hall

Gwangyang International Maehwa Festival | 광양국제매화축제

Head out to Gwangyang, the eastern edge of Jeollanam-do bordering the South Sea where the annual maehwa (apricot flower) festival will take place March 23–31. In springtime, Maehwa Village, the festival site, becomes a most splendid landscape as the apricot flowers burst into bloom. Picture-taking is by far the most popular thing to do, as families and friends preserve their memories of a beautiful spring day. A maehwa blossom photo contest, opportunities to learn traditional Korean drawing, and a variety of other craft-filled opportunities will also go on at the event. This festival truly shows the splendors of Korea’s countryside and even an occasional glimpse into the past.

EAT>
Hungry festival goers can indulge in the smorgasbord of local specialties as well as food and drink made with maesil (apricot fruit and flowers). Judging from the many bulgogi restaurants in Seoul that flash “Gwangyang” in their signage, Gwangyang is in a sense regarded as a mecca of this dish.

SEE>
Close to Gwangyang is Suncheon, which is known for its ecological park and many species of birds.
Yeosu, the site of the flamboyant world expo last year, sits just around the corner in the region.

DO>
The festival also features a schedule of traditional and modern performances, from samulnori (traditional percussion music) to pop song contests.

STAY>
Abundant accommodation options are available in this eco-friendly tourist area.

FYI>
T. 061-797-3714
www.gwangyang.go.kr/gymaehwa
(Gwangyang Maehwa Village, Gwangyang-si, Jeollanam-do | 전라남도 광양시 광양매화마을)

GO>
Buses for Gwangyang depart from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal and Nambu Bus Terminal.

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