Written by Violet Kim
Photographs courtesy of various manufacturers

This winter—which local papers report is the coldest one in 56 years—these stylish accessories will keep you fabulous. And fabulously warm. Money may not buy happiness, but it can buy hats, blankets, and sweaters.

Hats On: Beanie

Although the idea that you lose 45 percent of your body heat through your head is a myth, you don’t want to be taking any chances in Seoul’s subzero temperatures. And while Hats On in COEX stocks everything from newsboy hats to hunting caps, you can’t go wrong with a beanie. It’s impossible to look anything less than adorable in this earflap beanie from Joiebete. For something more serious, Hats On also stocks Jill by JillStuart beanies, like this fur-lined Jill by Jill Stuart Earflap Beanie.

FYI>
Price: 55,000 won and 45,000 won, respectively.

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Hats On has locations all over the peninsula including COEX (T. 02-6002-4905), Myeong-dong (T. 02-318-4905) and Hongdae (T. 02-3141-4905).

You can locate the closest one at http://hatson.co.kr

Redpointshop: Smart Planner

Despite the fact that well over half of Seoul’s population uses a smartphone, there’s just something infinitely more satisfying about the infinitely more cumbersome but tactile planner, and planners are still wildly popular. Kosney in Myeong-dong stocks chic, uncluttered color blocked planners from redpointshop in color combinations like purple and mint. We can’t decide what we like best about them—the fact that they have pockets or the quirky 5-degree slant of the lined pages, which allow you to write without tilting the planner.

FYI>
Price: 7,500 won
Other planners or stationary can be found at www.redpointshop.co.kr.

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Kosney has multiple locations, including one at M-Plaza in Myeong-dong (T. 02-727-3601).

You can locate the closest one at www.kosney.co.kr

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Style Nanda: Oversized Jacket

Slipping into this snazzy oversized jacket from Style Nanda is one way to stand out among the consistently drab blacks and grays of the average winter wardrobe. Definitely a fresh take on the baseball jacket silhouette.

FYI>
Price: 89,900 won

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Style Nanda’s spacious 3-story flagship is in Hongdae (T. 02-333-9217).

Website is available in English, Japanese and Chinese: www.stylenanda.com

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Spicy Color: Sweater

The blocky geometric designs on this men’s sweater from Spicy Color are smart and stylish without looking silly or exaggerated—the kind of sweater your girlfriend might want to steal from your closet.

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Price: 59,800 won, marked down from 119,600 won

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Available from Spicy Color, which has stores all over Seoul, but a particularly large one in Myeong-dong (T. 02-3789-5424).

Find your closest location at www.spicycolor.co.kr

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10×10: Surgical Mask

It might be because you’re sick of getting coughed on in the subway. It might be because you don’t want to spray when you sneeze. You might just have a particularly unsightly mole on your chin. Whatever the reason, sometimes you need to don one of those dreaded surgical masks. Wearing one of these “Nordic” patterned masks, however, might make you look less like a surgeon’s assistant and more like a cute, muzzled reindeer.

FYI>
Price: 6,800 won

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10×10 (pronounced 10 by 10) has several locations, including one at Doota
in Dongdaemun (T. 02-2279-0141).

Find your closest location at www.10×10.co.kr

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Olive Young: Hot Pack

The hot pack is a palm-sized miracle that will warm the inside of your pockets, perfect for those blustery days when your fingers feel like they’re about to drop off from frostbite. Not bad for less than 3,000 won.

FYI>
Price: 2,900 won

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You can purchase a hot pack at almost any Olive Young in the city. Find your closest location at www.oliveyoung.co.kr.

Bokuk: Electric Blanket

Koreans may be iffy about turning on the fan all night while we sleep, but we see nothing wrong with sleeping on an electric blanket. It’s like an efficient, personal patch of heated floor, except that it’s portable. E-mart stocks a variety of electric blankets printed with predictably ugly designs, but it also has this natty design of animal silhouettes from Bokuk.

FYI>
Price: 74,900 won. Other items can be found at www.bke.co.kr.

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E-mart has locations all over the country, but there’s one by the Cheonggyecheon (T. 02-2290-1085).

You can locate the closest E-mart at http://store.emart.com

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Korea’s lake country gets even better in winter

Written by Steve Miller
Photographed by Robert Koehler and the Sancheoneo Ice Festival

Tip: Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival

Selected by CNN and the Lonely Planet as one of Asia’s top winter festivals, the Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (Jan 5–27) is the time to visit this wild piece of Korea. This fun event, a celebration of the region’s famous mountain trout (Korean: sancheoneo), features ice fishing (including bare-handed ice fishing!), ice sculptures, good food and plenty of cultural events.

© Seoul Selection

Paroho Lake, a scenic and historic reservoir created by Hwacheon Dam

Seoul is a sprawling megacity encompassing a staggering 605.21㎢. The seemingly endless asphalt roads and skyscrapers reaching for the sky allow for some ten million-plus permanent residents (and another ten million in the surrounding areas). When in Korea’s nexus, it’s not impossible to find great restaurants or beauty, but what is nearly impossible is finding wide-open spaces. For this, nature lovers must trek to the countryside. A number of rural towns are worthy of such excursions, but rarely do many get a tourism boost along the likes of Hwacheon (화천) in Gangwon-do Province.

Hwacheon

Situated close to Korea’s Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Hwacheon boasts a relatively small population of just over twenty thousand souls. In fact, being so close to the border, the town has a significant military presence that can’t be ignored. Most of the year, the military outnumber civilians, except in January when over one million people descend on the small hamlet for the annual Sancheoneo (Mount Trout) Ice Festival (Jan 5–27, www.narafestival.com).

Unlike the populated metropolis to the east, Hwacheon is still very much a slow, rural town. Peering at a local tourist map gives the illusion that the town is much larger than it really is, for one can easily walk from one side to another in under an hour. During winter, crisscrossing the narrow, icy roads elicits memories of walking through American towns of the same size, a most welcomed change from the hurried life in Seoul.

Carving through the earth’s crust, a winding waterway creates some great spots for fishing year round, although the city is most known for the wintery version of this pastime when ice creeps over its surface. Since Hwacheon isn’t burdened with buildings reaching for thesky, those visiting enjoy uninterrupted views of Gangwon-do’s blue skies, peppered with puffy white clouds. When views are periodically obstructed, it’s by the hilltops rising up from the earth. Photography enthusiasts benefit from this, as there is no shortage of interesting angles and subjects to capture.

Get Your Grub On

One can’t travel on an empty stomach, and let’s face it, if you’re making the trip away from Seoul, by the time you make it into town—you’re going to want something to eat. Like most of Korea, there are several major franchises staking claims on street corners, luring you in with specials of the month. However, as anyone can tell you, the charm of small towns is in the family-owned restaurants—the ones that exist in only one location and offer truly unique experiences.

Photo by Steve Miller

EAT>

Hwacheon, with its proximity to water, is famous for its fresh seafood, but the culinary talents don’t end there. Among the city’s specialties are Ode and Togomi Rice—special pesticide-free grains that are wind dried and stored in low temperatures. The area also has many tomatoes, so it’s no wonder that residents combine this fruit with the region’s famous potatoes to make some savory rice cakes. But for the carnivorous traveler, sampling Hwacheon’s Jasira Pork might just be the winning ticket. According to locals, the swine meat is low in cholesterol thanks to its unique diet, which includes powdered pinecones.

Adjacent to the intercity bus terminal is Gangmi Restaurant 강미식당 (T. 033-442-5252), a family-owned restaurant known for its delicious and healthy-sized portions. If arriving around lunchtime, be sure to get there early, for it is not uncommon to find every table filled shortly after the noon hour. The samgyeopsal (pork) arrived on a plate accompanied by a host of side dishes sure to satisfy any appetite. Slabs of samgyeopsal were served fresh and thick. Eyeballing each strip of pork, I estimated each was easily more than two centimeters thick, and when placed on the grill, they created a delightful sizzling sound. While I cannot attest to any unique flavor induced from powdered pinecones, I can confirm the meat was tasty and hit the spot.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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One might think the best thing to do in such a small mountain town would be to sit and watch the grass grow. Nothing could be further from the truth. The city operates weekend tours to several popular destinations, including some inside the DMZ. Tours are limited to twenty people and reservations must be made and paid for ten days in advance (to gain DMZ access). Stops on this daylong tour include the Hwacheon Folklore Museum, the Peace Dam, local nature sites, and museums. The tour costs 15,000 won (13 years and over) and 10,000 won (12 years and under). For more information, reservations, and payment instructions visit http://ihc.go.kr/tour (T. 033-440-2852).

Since the aforementioned tours are fairly limited in size, most traveling to Hwacheon will be setting out on their own. Bus service is available but isn’t nearly as robust as Seoul’s transportation, so getting around to local attractions may mean venturing out in the cold winter air or, better yet, by taxi. If making the trip in summer, ample biking and walking paths circumnavigate the city, leading to a most decidedly awesome outdoor experience.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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Some of the more interesting things to see in and around town are Watermill Park and the Mount Ddansan Waterfall. Just a five-minute walk from the bus terminal, the watermill is the nation’s largest, measuring a staggering 15m in diameter. The park isn’t bustling with activity on most winter days, but inventive visitors make use of the gentle slopes surrounding the park’s central pedestal by sliding down and frolicking in the snow.

Much more scenic is the waterfall, which in winter is completely frozen. Taking a cab there is probably one’s best bet, but local bus 7 makes the trip there as well. Aside from snapping a few pictures of the frozen waterfall, there’s not much to do here in winter, and the nearby resort/amusement park is mainly frequented in the summer. Those venturing this way would be better served taking a cab, since the Hwacheon Dam is nearby. This historic structure was built by the Japanese
in 1944 and played a significant and bloody role in the Korean War. A beautiful pavilion overlooks the reservoir, providing an exceptional backdrop for stunning photographs.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

STAY>

There are about 20 or so motels and yeogwans (Korean-style inns) in Hwacheon. Most are pleasant enough and offer rooms at around 35,000–50,000 won a night, depending on the time of year and their size. If you are looking for something a bit more luxurious, you might want to look in Chuncheon, where there is a much wider range of accommodation.

FYI>

If traveling to Hwacheon, a stop at the bus terminal is a must, not only because most arriving in town do so at this location, but also because a local Tourism Information office is housed there. Any questions about tours, restaurants, accommodations, and traveling to locations are easily asked and answered, making the trip easy and worthwhile. www.ihc.go.kr/foreign/eng

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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Direct rail service isn’t available to Hwacheon. The only way to arrive in this mountain town by public transport is by bus. Direct intercity buses leave from Seoul’s Dong Seoul and Sang Bong terminals. Each has buses leaving throughout the day. The trip from Dong Seoul takes 2 hours 40 minutes and will set your bank account back 12,900 won. Those wanting a more scenic trip have the option of taking the new ITX from Yongsan Station to Chuncheon (departing every hour, on the hour). The trip takes just over an hour. Once in Chuncheon, cross the street outside Exit 1, veer left towards the bus stop, and wait for the intercity bus bound for Hwacheon. There are thirty a day, about two per hour. For extra help in making the transfer, a Tourist Information booth is located just outside the station. The ride from Chuncheon to Hwacheon is about an hour, putting one’s total travel time at just under two hours, provided all connections are made. It’s a faster and cheaper alternative, especially if getting into central Seoul is easier than making it to either Dong Seoul or Sang Bong Terminals.

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© Seoul Selection

WINTER RETREATS

Written by Robert Koehler
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Relax and recharge at some of the Seoul area’s best weekend hideaways

Sometimes, you just want to stay in.

This is especially so in winter. Koreans have an expression, “Happiness is a full stomach and a warm back.” Indeed, there are few more pleasant ways to spend a winter weekend than by eating well and relaxing in warm, pleasant surroundings.

Seoul might seem like a never-ending cacophony of light, sound, and energy, but in fact, you don’t need to look far to find sanctuary. Hidden throughout Seoul and its surroundings are oases of calm where you (and perhaps a loved one) can kick back, relax, and recharge.

© Seoul Selection

Rak-Ko-Jae  | 락고재

Hidden away in a corner of Seoul’s historic Bukchon neighborhood, Rak-Ko-Jae is more than just a hanok guesthouse—it’s a chance to experience classic Korean luxury and charm. This stunning 130-year-old aristocratic home, lovingly renovated by Human Cultural Treasure Chung Young-jin in 2003, combines enchanting architecture, captivating landscaping, and masterful cuisine to produce an unforgettable cultural experience. Mind you, it’s not an especially cheap experience, with rooms beginning at 250,000 won (and another 30,000 won for dinner), but it’s worth every penny.

Rak-Ko-Jae is an aristocratic home, which means you’ll be sleeping on the heated floor, Koreanstyle. There are four rooms in all, along with several communal spaces. All the rooms look out on the central courtyard, a lovely Korean garden space with gnarled pines, stone figures, and other visual elements. When it snows, there may be no more beautiful spot in the city.

Cultural programs are available, too, provided you make a reservation. In particular, you can reserve a performance of Korean traditional music—this can make for an especially memorable evening.

© Seoul Selection

© Seoul Selection

EAT>
The cost of accommodation includes a dinner of samgyetang (chicken and ginseng soup), but for an extra 30,000 won, you can have a dinner of Korean beef ribs. A Korean breakfast is also included.

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Rak-Ko-Jae is in Bukchon, a picturesque neighborhood of winding alleys lined by Korean traditional homes. It’s worth spending a morning or afternoon getting lost here.

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Soothe your aches and pains away in the Rak-Ko-Jae’s very own Korean clay sauna. You can also reserve a massage, too.

FYI>
Check-in: 2pm. Check-out: noon.
T. 02-742-3410, http://www.rkj.co.kr
(98 Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 계동 98)

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Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 2. Located nearby Jaedong Elementary School.

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© La Casa

La Casa | 라 까사

Designed by renowned Korean design house Casamia, Sinsa-dong’s La Casa is one of Seoul’s premier boutique hotels.      Design is the name of the game here. In a way, the hotel is a virtual showroom of Casamia’s furniture—in fact, sales of the company’s wares have increased dramatically since the hotel opened.

The hotel reflects Casamia’s design principle, which seeks to “provide a comfortable and functional space with creative design and form.” Every inch of the place has been scrutinized over, from the light fixtures to the bathroom wastebins. The forms and lines are definitely modern, while the hues are muted. To put you even more at ease, the lobby is done up like a home study… and a very nice one at that.

La Casa has 61 rooms, divided into 10 different styles. The suites are good value and perfect for weekend getaways, but if you’re flush with cash, go with the Loft House, with its contemporary chic decor and outdoor deck space. The top floor penthouses also make good venues for private parties.

© La Casa

© La Casa

EAT>
On the first floor you’ll find Casa Meal 까사밀 (T. 02-543-0079), the hotel’s very pleasant bakery/European café, where you can enjoy the breakfast buffet (included in the cost of your stay). If you’re in the mood for something else, the Sinsa-dong neighborhood is literally lined with cafés, bistros, and restaurants.

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The chic Sinsa-dong district is a little piece of SoHo in Seoul. The vibrant Gangnam district is nearby, too.

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Go shopping in Apgujeong-dong, home to Korea’s poshest shops.

FYI>
Room rates: 193,000–1,210,00 won
T. 02-546-0088, Http://www.hotellacasa.kr
(527-2 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul | 서울시 강남구 신사동 527-2)

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800m from Apgujeong Station 압구정역  (Line 3), Exit 5.

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© Seoul Selection

Gilsangsa Temple | 길상사

For a more spiritual retreat, try Gilsangsa Temple’s weekend Templestay program.

Hidden in a mountain valley in the quiet Seongbuk-dong district, Gilsangsa used to be an exclusive, high-end restaurant/entertainment establishment frequented by Korea’s economic and political elite of the 1970s. In 1987, the late owner turned the property over to one of Korea’s most beloved Buddhist monks, who turned it into a temple. Because of its unique history, much of the architecture and landscaping is quite unlike anything you’ll find at other Buddhist temples. When it snows, the scenery here is straight out of a movie.

Winter is a time of intense meditation at Buddhist temples across Korea, but Gilsangsa still manages to conduct bimonthly “Finding Your True Self” weekend retreats. These two-day, one-night sessions are an unparalleled opportunity to unplug, connect with nature, and experience a 1,700-year-old Korean tradition. Retreats include Seon (Zen) meditation, chanting, Buddhist bowing rites, tea ceremonies, vegetarian Buddhist meals, and other programs. It’s early-to-bed, early-to-rise—the Sunday morning chanting begins at 3:55am!—but it’s well worth the effort.

In January, Gilsangsa will host retreats on Jan 19–20 and Jan 26–27. Sign up early if you’d like attend!

© Seoul Selection

© Seoul Selection

© Seoul Selection

EAT>
Like any Templestay program, you’ll be enjoying baru gongyang—communal Buddhist meals. These vegetarian meals are simple, nutritious, and tasty. They are also a form of meditation—nothing, not even a grain of rice, is to be wasted, and you’ll be doing the dishes yourself.

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The temple’s main hall, an older building from the time when this was a high-class eatery where Korea’s powerful came to eat, drink, and be merry.

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108 bows, a Buddhist rite that doubles as a great morning workout. Besides, what else would you rather be doing at 5 o’clock in the morning?

FYI>
Participation fee: 50,000 won.
T. 02-3672-0036,
www.gilsangsa.or.kr
(323 Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul | 서울시 성북구 성북동 323)

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Use the shuttle bus from Hansung University Station 한성대입구역 (Line 4), Exit 6. The stop is 50m from the station, in front of Jinhak Bookshop.

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© House of the Mind

House of the Mind | 생각속의 집

The small town of Yangpyeong is just a 45 minute ride from downtown Seoul, but it feels like a world away. It’s here that the Namhangang and Bukhangang Rivers come together to form the mighty Hangang River that flows through the heart of the Korean capital. It’s a beautiful land of mountains, forests, and rivers, glistening white beneath the winter’s snow.

MIT-educated architect Q.M. Min pays tribute to Yangpyeong’s natural beauty with his House of the Mind, one of Korea’s most visually stunning guesthouses/pension houses. Part accommodation, part work of art, House of the Mind remains true to Korean architectural tradition by harmonizing perfectly with its landscape. Each angle, each window offers inspiring views of the trees, fields, and hills. To further take advantage of its surroundings, each room has its own jacuzzi surrounded by glass walls. Just imagine that on a snowy winter’s day.

 House of the Mind has six rooms/units, each one named for an herb that grows in the guesthouse’s rear garden. In accordance with the exterior architecture, the interior decor is distinctively modern, and the colors complement the landscapes. There’s an Italian eatery on-site, but if you prefer to cook for yourself (and/or for someone you love), there are cooking and barbecue facilities, too. The units also lend themselves to parties and other group functions.

© House of the Mind

© House of the Mind

EAT>
Try the guesthouse’s Italian restaurant, Sapore 사포레 (T. 031-773-2210). The restaurant also does some fine barbecue for 35,000 won a person.

SEE>
If you’re going to leave your room, check out nearby Yangsu-ri, a renowned scenic spot where the Bukhangang and Namhangang Rivers meet. Inquire with the front desk about transportation.

DO>
Go skiing at Daemyung Vivaldi Park, which is also nearby.

FYI>
Room rates: 170,000–330,000 won (weekends). American-style breakfast included.
T. 031-773-2210. http://mindhome.co.kr
(32 Buan-ri, Danwol-myeon, Yangpyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do | 경기도 양평군 단월면 부안리 32)

GO>
Take a bus to Hongcheon from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal. Get off at Danwol and give the guesthouse a call—they’ll pick you up from there.

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Korea Grand Sale 2013

Korea is good for shopping at the best of times, though, it’ll be even better, as some 24,000 stores and other organizations will offer foreign visitors and residents discounts ranging between 10% and a whopping 50%. Department stores, duty-free stores, hotels, supermarkets, convenience stores, performance venues: the possibilities are almost endless. The sale will be accompanied by a variety of K-pop concerts, free shuttle bus operations to facilitate the shopping experience, a Special Week event and plenty more.

FYI> Seoul, Busan, Gangwon-do, Jeju and local areas
Jan 11–Feb 28
www.koreagrandsale.co.kr
www.facebook.com/koreagrandsale