EXPLORING SUNGNYEMUN GATE AND ITS NEIGHBORS | 숭례문 지역
Seoul’s historic entrance is reborn

Written by Robert J. Fouser

History may note this year as “Year of the Seoul City Wall.” Efforts to rebuild lost sections of the wall are moving forward, and interest in the wall is at an all-time high. The recent reopening of Sungnyemun Gate in May 2013 after years of reconstruction focuses attention to the western section of the wall. In the early 20th century, Japanese colonial rulers destroyed the wall around Sungnyemun Gate for roads and a streetcar line linking the center of the city with Seoul Station.

A good way to explore the western section of the wall is to start at Seoul Station (Line 1, 4 and A’REX Line). Opened in 1925, the old part of the station is one of the most notable buildings remaining from the Japanese colonial period (1910–1945). Until the new KTX station opened in 2004, the old building was the main gateway to Seoul. After several years of restoration, the station was transformed into the Culture Station Seoul 284, a multipurpose art space for special exhibitions and events, in 2011 (http://seoul284.org/new/eng/intro/intro.php). The cultural center also has a room for a permanent exhibit on the history of Seoul Station.

The short walk from Seoul Station toward Sungnyemun Gate goes past several old commercial buildings from the mid-twentieth century. First built in 1396, the gate was rebuilt and repaired several times in the 15th century but did not undergo another major renovation until 1962. It was the best example of an original early Joseon-period structure and was designated National Treasure No. 1. An arson fire in 2008 destroyed the gate, which shocked the nation, but five years of painstaking construction have produced a historically faithful replica. The gate is the largest and most ornate of the four large main gates in the Seoul City Wall. Walk around Sungnyemun Gate and notice the beautiful curves in the roof and other details.

From Sungnyemun Gate, turn in the direction of Seoul Station and cross the street at the first crosswalk. Turn right, go straight, and cross the next street. You will then see a sidewalk that looks like the Seoul City Wall and a reconstructed portion of the wall next to the KCCI building. This part of the wall was reconstructed in 2005 during the construction of the KCCI building. Keep going until you come to the Olive Tower, another tall office building. You will soon see that the base of the reconstructed wall in front of this building looks older than the rest of the wall. This is one of the stones are from the original wall and was unearthed during the construction of the building. The wall stops at the next street and does not pick up for one kilometer, until the area around Sajik Tunnel.

From here, go straight and then turn left at the JoongAng Ilbo Building and go straight. Cross the busy street, turn right, cross the street, and turn left. Go straight until you come to a long, curving apartment building with shops on the first floor, the Seosomun Apartments. Built in 1972, the building is one of the earliest examples of a residential-commercial building in Korea. The building was built over a covered up stream, which explains its rare curved shape. Among the shops are several cafés and restaurants with outdoor seating that offer interesting views of Seoul’s jumbled cityscape.

The Seosomun Apartments end at a busy street. Turning left leads to Seodaemun Station (Line 5), and tuning right takes you back to Seoul Station following the train tracks. Another choice is to time your visit so that you can return to Sungnyemun Gate in the evening for the spectacular light up.

GO>
Seoul Station | 서울역
Seoul Station 서울역 (Line 1, 4, A’REX)

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Sungnyemun Gate | 숭례문
Hoehyeon Station 회현역 (Line 4)

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Seosomun Apartments | 서소문 아파트
Seodaemun Station 서대문역 (Line 5)

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Just experimenting with timelapse photography above Seoul’s landmark Sungnyemun Gate.

Sungnyemun Gate Timelapse from Robert Koehler on Vimeo.

© Cultural Herritage Administration

Sungnyemun Gate | 숭례문

After a painstaking multiyear reconstruction effort, Sungnyemun Gate will be unveiled on April, the date the cultural site was destroyed in a fire in 2008. Designated as National Treasure No. 1 of Korea, the historic pagoda-style structure dates back to the 14th century Joseon Dynasty. Sungnyemun Gate served as the official main entrance to Seoul among eight gateways when the capital was a small-walled city in dynastic times. When extant, the gate was the oldest wooden structure in Seoul, even though its base structure, made of granite blocks, survived the arson attack. The gate is located between Seoul Station and Seoul City Plaza in the central area of the capital, with the hallmark 24-hour Namdaemun Market nearby. Namdaemun, meaning “southern gate,” is the old name for Sungnyemun, which literally stands for “Gate of Exalted Ceremonies.”

EAT>
Try the galchi jorim 갈치조림, beltfish boiled in a spicy soup, in the Galchi Jorim Alley of nearby Namdaemun Market.

BUY>
One of Seoul’s two great outdoor markets, Namdaemun Market has just about everything under the sun. The area right by the gate is a good place to go camera shopping.

SEE>
Namdaemun Market is full of unique sights, sounds, and aromas.

FYI>
www.sungnyemun.or.kr (Korean only)

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Seoul Station 서울역 (Line 1), Exit 4. Walk five minutes
(29 Namdaemun-ro 4-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul | 서울시 중구 남대문로4가 29)

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