Rustic Jeonju Hanok Village 전주 한옥마을

In order to properly appreciate Jeonju Hanok Village, be prepared to get lost. And leave your watch at home.

A maze of picturesque alleyways lined by handsome old Korean homes, Jeonju Hanok Village is a piece of an older, simpler and infinitely slower Korea. Every corner, every back street yields a new discovery. Hidden away amidst the tile roofs and greenery are charming guest houses, quiet teahouses, historic Confucian shrines, artisan workshops and stately old trees that have stood their ground for centuries. If there’s something in particular you’d like to see, by all means, bring a map. Otherwise, experience the town as it was meant to be seen—very, very slowly.

EAT> Tons of great places to eat in Jeonju, including many places in Jeonju Hanok Village itself. It’s best known dish is the Jeonju bibimbap—rice mixed with fresh vegetables and a tangy pepper sauce and served with a spread of side dishes. Jeonju’s best known bibimbap house is Gogung (T. 063-251-3211), a taxi ride from Jeonju Hanok Village. Closer to the hanok village is Gajok Hoegwan (T. 063-284-0982), which is also highly recommended. This writer recommends Seongmidang (T. 063-273-0029), a smaller place hidden in an alley near Gajok Hoegwan. It’s friendly, held in high esteem by locals, and above all, does great food. A Jeonju bibimbap will run you KRW 10,000, or KRW 12,000 for one topped with raw beef (yukhoe bibimbap).

STAY> Jeonju Hanok Village is about hanok, and there’s no better way to experience the charm of a Korean traditional abode than spending a night in one. There are many good hanok guesthouses in the village. One of the better ones is the Hakindang (T. 063-284-9929), a palatial estate built in 1905 by high ranking royal official Baek Nak-jung. When we say palatial, we mean palatial—the home’s architecture incorporates aspects of royal palace design.

SEE> Overlooking Jeonju Hanok Village to the east is a small hill topped by a grand Korean pavilion. The hill provides good views of the entire hanok village.

DO> Experience the paper making process at Jeonju Traditional Korean Paper Center (T. 063-232-6591).

GO> KTX express train service connects Jeonju with Seoul’s Yongsan Station (travel time: about 2 hrs, 10 min). You can also take express buses to Jeonju from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hrs, 45 min).

Pocheon’s Herb Island  포천 허브 아일랜드

There are few better places to take in the fragrances of the Korean spring than Pocheon’s Herb Island. Founded in 1998 to grow, well, herbs, Herb Island is home to a botanical garden, museums, restaurants, an aroma therapy center and much, much more. Most visitors, though, will simply want to stroll amidst the endless fields of flowers, breathing in the scents.

EAT> There are a couple of herb-themed eateries, including one specializing in Korean-style herb ribs. There’s a bakery and cafe, too.

STAY> This is a day trip from Seoul, but if you’d like to stay, Herb Island has some pension houses (some more outlandishly decorated than others) for you to stay at.

SEE> The garden is lit up in multicolored lights at night.

DO> Recover from the stresses of modern life at the Herb Healing Center spa.

GO> Take Bus 57 to Soyosan Station 소요산역 (Line 1) and get off at Samjeong-ri. From there, just walk to Herb Island.

Historic Incheon  인천

Perhaps best known for the dramatic Korean War battle that bears its name, Incheon has served as the world’s gateway to Korea for over a century. In the era of steam and sail, the city’s waterfront played host to a heady mix of races, cultures, religions and languages as the adventurous, ambitious, desperate and devout arrived on Korean shores in search of fortunes and souls. This heritage of cultural exchange has left an indelible imprint on the city—stroll about Incheon’s old town and you’ll come across Chinese townhouses, Japanese banks, colonial-style saloons and Christian churches..

 EAT> Some of the best Chinese food in Korea can be had in Incheon’s Chinatown, Korea’s largest. Some historic eateries to try are Hyangmanseong (T. 032-766-2916) and Pungmi (T. 032-772-2680).

STAY> This is just a day trip from Seoul. If you are going to stay here, though, the Harbor Park Hotel (T. 032-770-9500) near Chinatown has great views of the harbor from the upper floors.

SEE> Incheon’s got plenty of history—many of the old banks and offices in the old Japanese concession are now museums. Incheon Art Platform—a colonial-era warehouse complex—is now a cultural complex with studios and exhibit spaces.

DO> Cruise boats to the scenic Yeongjong Bridge depart from Wolmido Island.

GO> Incheon is the last stop of Seoul Subway Line 1. The entrance to Chinatown is just across the street from Incheon Station.

Samcheok/ Donghae Coastal Walk   삼척/동해 해파랑길

A coastal walking trail—the Haeparang Trail (haeparang.org)—links the entire East Sea coast. The section along the coast of the Gangwon-do towns of Donghae and Samcheok is especially scenic with plenty of cliffs, waterfalls and dramatic rock formations. The trail includes some nice beach walks, too. Just what the doctor ordered to revive body and soul.

EAT> Samcheok’s signature dish is gomchiguk, a spicy soup made from moray eel. The place to go for this is the Donga Sikdang (T. 033-574-5870). This place’s other specialty is seonggye baekban (KRW 10,000)—soup, side dishes and rice, which is mixed bibimbap-style with cooked sea urchin.

STAY> The Donghae Grand Hotel (T. 033-534-6682), on Mangsang Beach, is a three-star place with great views, especially at sunrise. Its indoor and outdoor pools are worth checking out, too.

SEE> Some of the best sunrises in Korea can be had at Chuam Beach, famous for its dramatic rock formations.

DO> While you’re in Donghae, it’s worth hiking in the Mureung Valley, famous for its dramatic cliffs and scenic waterfalls.

GO> Trains to Samcheok depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station. From Samcheok Bus Terminal, take a bus to Bugu Terminal near Bugu Intersection, the beginning of the trail.

Imsil Cheese Village 임실치즈마을

Located just 30 minutes from Jeonju (see above), the town of Imsil is best known as the cheese capital of Korea. You might not associate cheese with Korea, but in 1967, Belgian priest Didier t’Serstevens introduced the art of cheese-making to a small mountain village. The village now produces a wide range of high-quality cheeses, from standards like cheddar and mozzarella to finely aged Gouda.

EAT> Oddly enough, cheese. The Imsil Cheese Theme Park—yes, there is such a place—sells delicious pizzas and spaghetti made with Imsil cheese. You’ll also find restaurants in town serving cheese-infused Korean favorites like bibimbap, samgyeopsal and tteokbokki.

STAY> If you’re not staying in nearby Jeonju, you can try the pension of Imsil Cheese Theme Park (T. 063-643-2300).

SEE> The scenic valley and cliffs of Saseondae.

DO> Cheese-making programs are available. And while not especially related to cheese, Imsil also hosts a “semi-nude” photography festival each spring. Be warned, though—there’s nothing “semi” about the nudity.

GO> Buses to Imsil depart from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal (travel time: 3 hours). From the bus terminal, you’ll need to take a local bus to Imsil Station, where the village is located.

Gyeongju: Ancient Capital of Silla 경주

The ancient capital of the great Korean kingdom of Silla (57 BC−AD 935), the small southeastern city of Gyeongju boasts of one of Korea’s richest scenic and cultural landscapes. It is home to no fewer than three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the magnificent Buddhist monastery of Bulguksa and its sublime Seokguram Grotto, the countless Silla relics of Gyeonggju National Park, and the picturesque Joseon-era community of Yangdong Village. To properly appreciate the place, you need weeks if not months, but even a weekend visit is well worth the time, energy, and money—especially in spring, when the flowers bloom and the town is ablaze in brilliant shades of yellow and pink.

EAT>  Ssambap—rice and meat wrapped in lettuce leaves—is a local specialty. You can find a number of ssambap restaurants at the south entrance of Daereungwon, including Guro Ssambap (T. 054-749-0600). If you’re in a party of two or more, Dosol Maeul (T. 054-748-9232) is worth a try. Specializing in traditional Korean meals (jeongsik), the restaurant is in an old Korean home, mixing taste with atmosphere. You’ll love their mountains of side dishes.

STAY> Where you stay depends on how thick your wallet is. Bomun Lake, a leisure and recreation district to the east of town, is home to many luxury hotels, including the Hilton, Hyundai, and Commodore, just to name a few. If you’re really flush with cash and looking for the Korean traditional experience, look no further than the Millennium Palace Resort & Spa (Ragung), a sumptuous hanok hotel near Bomun Lake. If the beautiful Korean traditional architecture, upscale Korean cuisine, and charming Korean interiors aren’t enough, the private outdoor hot tubs attached to each room should do the trick (T. 054-778-2100).

SEE> The sublime Seokguram Grotto, one of the most spectacular pieces of Buddhist art in the world. The evening reflections at Anapji Pond are worth seeing, too.

DO> Hike Mt. Namsan, a scenic peak covered in Buddhist rock carvings and temple ruins.

GO> KTX trains to Gyeongju depart from Seoul Station (travel time: 2 hours). From Gyeongju’s KTX station, take a bus to Gyeongju City Bus Terminal.

The mother of all markets

If you’ve eaten in a restaurant today, odds are some of your meal came from Garak Market (가락시장), where many of Seoul’s restaurateurs come to restock their kitchens. Cheaper, fresher, and bigger than just about anywhere else in the city, it’s the mother of all markets.

Let’s start with the numbers. Korea’s first and biggest public wholesale market, Garak covers over 540,000 square meters. On an average day, 7,300 tons of food are bought and sold, and KRW 10.4 billion changes hands; around 130,000 customers visit and 42,000 vehicles pass through its gates.

Prices are far lower than in the big chain supermarkets, but even if you’re not shopping, Garak’s size, expanse, and agro-industrial character make it a fascinating place to wander around, unlike any other market in the city. Women gather strands of olive-black seaweed—looking like film strips dipped in oil—vendors sell bell peppers brighter than traffic lights, and garlic comes in piles big enough to ward off an army of vampires. Workers in airplane hangar-sized warehouses store, sort, and separate boxes of fruit and vegetables for distribution, and at the complex’s north end are arch-roofed auction houses, where restaurateurs come to bid on the daily offerings. One warehouse is devoted entirely to onions.

On the market’s west side are the fish and livestock markets. The former is a mini-Noryangjin, a watery collection of big pink and gray prawns, octopus tentacles as long and thick as a man’s leg, and lobsters with their pincers rubber-banded shut like restrained convicts. In the latter, hanging racks of ribs, legs, flanks and shanks dangle from hooks like nightmare chandeliers, and sliced up organs wait to be sent to gopchang (grilled intestine) restaurants.

Spring style

If new clothes for spring are in order, head to Munjeong Rodeo Street (문정동 로데오거리), which is lined with dozens and dozens of name-brand stores that sell things at markdowns sometimes as high as 70 percent. There’s a bit of everything, clothing-wise, here, but there’s a particular abundance of places to pick up Americana apparel like Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister and to stock up on outdoor gear, with the North Face, K2, Black Yak and more all represented.

And if you need a bit of a break from shopping, duck down Dongnam-ro-6-gil (동남로6길), where, a block from Rodeo, you’ll find the Memorial Stone for the Origin of Munjeong Village (문정마을 유래비), explaining a bit of the neighborhood’s history and, even better, twin 530-year-old zelkova trees where broad platforms offer the chance for respite under great leafy branches.

Garak Market 가락시장 / Exit 1

garak.co.kr

Munjeong Rodeo Street 문정동 로데오거리 / Exit 6

Straight on Songpa-dae-ro 송파대로,
Left on Dongnam-ro 동남로

Memorial Stone for the Origin of Munjeong Village 문정마을 유래비 and zelkova trees 느티나무 / Exit 6

Straight on Songpa-dae-ro 송파대로, Light on Dongnam-ro 동남로, Right on Dongnam-ro-6-gil 동남로6길

Written by Charles Usher

Photographed by Melissa Quek

The Search for Live Music in Itaewon

Written and photographed by SEOUL staff

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After the closure of two popular Itaewon venues in 2011, live music has become more difficult to find in the neighborhood. Here are four bars that host bands on the regular.

DOJO Lounge   도조 라운지 

DOJO is a unique venue in the heart of Kyungnidan. Opened in 2012 by NOXA Lounge owner Joseph Kim and Canadian DJ Matthew Clement (DJ 4Play), DOJO is the only lounge club in the area. DOJO features live bands every Friday and an open mic night every Tuesday. The owners are two true lovers of music, and DOJO is known for showcasing quality acts across many genres. As an added bonus, the regular staff members, Kristin and Yenee, are the nicest bartenders in Seoul. It is the perfect place for anyone trying to find live music at a slightly more upscale venue, especially Itaewon residents who do not want to trek to Hongdae for shows.

Live music: Tuesday (open mic), Friday (bands)

FYI> T. 02-790-1334

GO> Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2. Go straight. You should see DOJO across the street you once you hit a crosswalk, next to the Industrial Bank of Korea.

Thunderhorse Tavern  썬더호스 태번 

Originally located near the Itaewon main street, Thunderhorse Tavern relocated to Kyungridan in late 2013, making it the first bar dedicated solely to live music in the neighborhood. Kirk Kwon, a former sound crew member for acts such as Motorhead, Slayer, and 50 Cent, runs the cozy tavern, and former Ole Stompers Rock Spot owner Dwayne Robertson can be found behind the bar most nights. A wide variety of Seoul-area bands grace the stage every weekend, and karaoke Wednesdays start this month. Given Kirk’s dedication to sound quality, the bar is a must-visit for lovers of live music and those looking for a friendly neighborhood haunt. Though very new, many artists in the area are already regulars, and some of Seoul’s best musicians can be found there on weekends.

Live music: Wednesday (karaoke), Friday and Saturday (bands)

FYI> T . 010-5152-1691

GO> Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2. Walk straight and you will see Thunderhorse on your right.

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Woodstock Itaewon 우드스탁

Woodstock Itaewon is one of the oldest bars on the main street, and the oldest live music venue in the neighborhood. It has hosted bands for the past 20 years. Mr. Woo, the owner and quite a character, can always be found dancing, playing pool, tending bar, or relaxing on his couch. Nearly every band looking to play in the Itaewon area has set foot on their stage, and four bands perform there every Friday and Saturday. The bar has not been updated in two decades, so it’s not for everyone, but if you’re looking for a taste of old Itaewon, Woodstock is definitely the spot. Pop in after 9 PM and the experience is sure to be memorable.

Live music: Friday and Saturday (bands)

FYI> T. 010-8860-1419 (Mr. Woo)

GO> Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 2. Go straight; Woodstock is on your left.

Rocky Mountain Tavern 록키 마운틴 태번

Opened in August 2004, Rocky Mountain Tavern has been a popular spot on the Itaewon main street for nearly a decade. Not only does the pub have excellent food and drink, it also hosts bands every Saturday, and it is the largest live music venue in the neighborhood. One of the owners, Mike Dowding, is a bassist with a couple of popular bands in the area, resulting in great sound. Last year’s makeover left the second floor where the bands play more open and accommodating. The venue has held many band parties and fundraisers over the years, and the live shows are always a good time. It’s the perfect place to grab dinner and drinks. Head upstairs for superb music on Saturday nights.

Live music: Friday (bands)

FYI> T. 02-792-5392

GO> Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3. Go straight, Rocky Mountain Tavern should be on your right.

The Hyehwa and Daehangno areas are normally known for theater and robust college students, but on the second Sunday of every month, the neighborhood becomes the arena for one of Seoul’s liveliest farmer’s markets: Marche@ Hyehwa.

More than just a farmer’s market, artisans, chefs and local residents join the community-run marketplace to provide an eclectic environment that offers everything from homegrown vegetables to hand-made cutting boards. As a matter of fact, everything sold here is made by the person selling them. Furthermore, all willing participants are inspected by a local board to ensure their sincerity, and the number of vendors is limited so that focus remains on quality over quantity. To keep waste to a minimum, no single-use utensils are provided, which means visitors must wash their own dishes at temporary sinks installed on the grounds. Either that, or your bowl is conveniently made from something like toasted corn, so that you can just eat it!

Marche@ Hyehwa is officially run from 11:00 to 16:00, but much of the food is gone by two in the afternoon, so be sure to arrive early.

EAT> Food is everywhere; enjoy yourself. Just don’t leave a mess!

BUY> Support honest, local food production.

SEE> Daehangno’s Marrionier Park is a favorite spot for local musicians.

FYI> www.marcheat.net

GO> Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 2. Go straight and turn left at Marrionier Park; the market is set up near Arko Art Center in the park.

Yun Dong-ju Literature Hall  윤동주 기념관

Located on a quaint roadside at the end of a Seoul Fortress hiking course running along the Bugaksan Mountains, the Yun Dong-ju Literature Hall is both a museum and memorial hall dedicated to the colonial era poet. Specially designed using an old water pressurization station, the building is based on the themes of “open well” and “closed well,” giving visitors the impression of actually being immersed in water. The hall displays early drafts of Yun’s work as well as information about his background. Yun was arrested while studying in Tokyo under suspicions of Korean nationalism and died in a Japanese prison. The surrounding Yun Dong-ju Hill area contains a serene park and pristine pathways ideal for a spring day’s walk.

 EAT> Try some dumplings at Jaha Sonmandu (T. 02 379-2648) near Changuimun Gate.

BUY> Souvenirs are available for those with literary interests.

SEE> Be sure to experience the “open well” and “closed well” themes.

FYI> T. 02-2148-4175. Hours are from 10:00 to 18:00; closed holidays and Mondays. Admission is free.

GO> From Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 5, follow the road that hugs the west side of Gyeongbokgung Palace and, beyond that, Mt. Bugaksan until you reach Yun Dong-ju Hill and Changuimun Gate.

Serenity in the City: Samcheong Park  삼청공원

Samcheong Park was established in 1940, making it the first official public park in Korea. The name “Samcheong” refers to the park’s clean forests, pure water and kind people, and has long been a favorite for refreshing spring walks. Abound with cherry blossoms, Samcheong Park is also connected to the Mt. Bugaksan Seoul Fortress Wall Hiking Trail, making it an ideal starting point for walkers, whether you’re looking for a calm stroll or a vigorous hike. In addition to the park’s rich forestry and floral beauty, the park also offers plenty of rest spots, badminton and tennis courts, a playground, snack facilities, and even a library.

 EAT> The park has snack stands, but if you’re looking for a real meal, head into one of the restaurants along the Café Street that leads up to the park from the Samcheong-dong area.

BUY> Leave the consumerism behind and enjoy the walk.

SEE> If you’re up for it, try hiking up to Prospect Point (Malbawi).

FYI> T. 02-735-8688

GO> Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역(Line 5), Exit 2. Take bus 11 and get off at the last stop. Follow signs leading to the park.

Hongdae Freedom:  The Hongdae Free Market 홍대 프리마켓

The Hongdae Free Market is a community marketplace created to support local artisans, providing an open space for anybody to share and sell their work, so long as it’s all made personally by hand. Started as an alternative to both the mass-consumerism of mainstream art and the highbrow exclusivity of corporate art, the Hongdae Free Market is operated under the philosophy that anybody can create and that personal creation has an intrinsic value that can’t be undermined by mass-production. In addition to the marketplace, visitors can enjoy the “Afternoon Stage,” an open venue where musicians and performance artists can sign up to display their talent. The market is held on every Saturday from March to November, 13:00 to 18:00.

EAT> There will be plenty of local food vendors.

BUY> Support local art.

SEE> Be sure to check out the street performers.

FYI> www.freemarket.or.kr

GO> Hongdae Station 홍대역 (Line 2), Exit 9. Look for signs pointing to Hongdae Playground (Hongik Children’s Park) near Hongik University

Hangang River Cruise: Colorful Moonlight  한강 이랜드 크루즈

Springtime is perfect for getting out after being shacked in during winter, and the Hangang River is one of the city’s quintessential sites. The Hangang River Cruise is an ideal way to witness the scope of the river as well as view Seoul from a different perspective. Passengers can choose between a one-way or round-trip, and there are 8 different docks where you can board: Yeouido, Jamsil, Yangwha, Ttukseom, Sangam, Seoul Forest, Jamdubong and Seonyudo. A popular option is to go at night, when you can witness the spectacular lighting effects of Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain, the world’s longest bridge fountain, equipped with 380 water jets and nearly 10,000 LED lights’ worth of dazzling colors.

Cruises are available in different themes, such as “Buffet Cruise,” “Event Cruise” or even “Spring Flower Cruise.”.

EAT> Most cruises have meal options.

BUY> Save your money; cruises aren’t cheap.

SEE> Try to see if you can recognize different parts of Seoul when viewed from the river.

FYI> T. 02-3271-6900, www.elandcruise.com,
www.visitseoul.net/en

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Spring Beauty in Yeouido: Spring Flower Festival  여의도 벚꽃축제

There’s perhaps no event in Seoul more representative of spring and cherry blossoms than the Hangang Yeouido Spring Flower Festival. Started in 2005, this festival boasts over 1,600 different cherry blossom trees and over 87,000 specimens of 13 different flower species—including azaleas, royal azaleas and forsythia—ensuring any visitor an abundance of color and botanic beauty. Because Japanese invaders during the colonial period brought cherry blossom trees with them, cherry blossoms were once considered to be symbols of Japanese imperialism, and many trees were uprooted in the name of nationalism. However, modern Korean scientists have proven that cherry blossoms have existed on Korean soil since at least the Goryeo period, and they now flourish throughout the country.

The center of the festival is Yeouiseo-ro (Yunjung-no), a road near the National Assembly building that is mostly closed off to traffic during the festival. The road is also lit up at night to expose the beauty of the flowers for evening visitors.

In addition to the floral scenery, spectators can also enjoy a variety of street performances, a parade, and the very popular opening fireworks ceremony.

EAT> Street vendors will be on hand selling snacks and beverages, and Noryangjin Fish Market is just around the corner.

BUY> The IFC Mall nearby has anything a shopper needs.

SEE> All the spring flowers you could ever want next to the Hangang riverside.

FYI> T. 02-1330 (English), 02-2670-3142 (Korean). This year’s festival is scheduled to be held from April 12–20, but dates may change depending when the flowers bloom.

GO> National Assembly Station 국회의사당역 (Line 9), Exit 1.

Autumn is a great time to be in the southwestern town of Jeongeup. By the first week of November, the legendary autumn foliage of Naejangsan National Park should be at its peak. Sure, it’s a mad rush to get to the park at this time – it can seem like half of Korea is visiting – but the colors more than make the trip worth it. Weekdays are better for avoiding the crowds. Naejangsa Temple is the most popular destination, but this writer prefers the area around Baegyangsa Temple (in the neighboring town of Jangseong). To add to the fun, Jeongeup also plays host to the Jeongeup National Bullfighting Festival (Oct 31–Nov 4). Korean bullfighting is quite different from the Spanish version in that it’s not man vs. beast, but rather a battle between two bulls with a history rooted in Korea’s agricultural past. The battles are rarely fatal and rather fun affairs filled with boisterous cheering.

EAT>Southwest Korea is renowned for heavenly food. If you’re looking for something non-Korean, the Chinese restaurant Yangjagang (T. 063-533-4870) is well-known for jjamppong (spicy seafood noodle soup).

SEE>The autumn colors, naturally enough.

DO>Battle other photographers to capture the reflection of Baegyangsa’s Ssanggyeru Pavilion and Mt. Baegamsan in the pond in front of the temple.

STAY>Two decent motels near Naejangsan National Park are Hotel Greentopia (T. 063-538-5656) and Naejangsan Haniljang (T. 063-538-8980). Booking early is advisable if you’re staying during the peak autumn season. Stay at a place with a bit of history at An Jinsa Old House (T. 063-535-9461), a 200-year-old mansion with rooms for KRW 100,000–200,000 a night.

FYI>culture.jeongeup.go.kr

GO>Buses to Jeongeup depart from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 3 hrs).

The Yellow Sea port town of Gunsan is known for its seafood, early 20th-century architecture and migratory birds. Every autumn, great flocks of Baikal teals descend on the Geumgang River estuary to spend the winter, taking to the skies in great clouds at dawn and dusk in their search for food. So vast are the flocks that when on the move, they nearly blot out the sky. The Gunsan International Migratory Bird Festival in November is a great opportunity to see the birds as well as explore an underrated city. Developed as a rice-exporting port in the Japanese colonial era, the town is home to many fine examples of colonial-era architecture. Recent restorations and renovations have turned a number of buildings into arts and cultural spaces.

EAT>Gunsan Hoetjip (T. 063-442-1114) is a great place to score raw fish. If raw fish isn’t your thing, try the outstanding jjambong (spicy seafood noodle soup) at Bokseongnu (T. 063-445-8412).

SEE>Start your exploration of historic Gunsan at the Gunsan Modern History Museum.

DO>Watch the birds from Migratory Bird Observatory.

STAY>A clean, comfortable and reasonably priced place to stay is Hyumotel (T. 063-464-6081).

FYI>tour.gunsan.go.kr

GO>The best way to get to Gunsan is to take the KTX from Seoul’s Yongsan Station to Iksan, and then transfer to a train to Gunsan. Gunsan Station is a bit outside of town, so a cab ride is needed to get to the historical sites downtown.

The rugged agricultural town of Cheongsong is, well, off the beaten path. The town is famous for its apples that are as big as a baby’s head and for some of the most spectacular fall scenery in Korea. On an average autumn Saturday or Sunday, Mt. Juwangsan National Park is overrun with hikers who seek the park’s stunning foliage, fantastic rock formations and enchanting waterfalls. The mysterious Jusanji Pond, meanwhile, is mesmerizing with surreal imagery of snarled trees reaching from the misty lake like monster claws grabbing for the early morning sky. The Cheongsong Apple Festival (Nov 8–11) makes the perfect excuse to visit the Cheongsong area. Autumn colors, which should peak in the Cheongsong area in late October, will still be worth seeing then.

EAT>Numerous restaurants serving standard Korean fare are in front of Daejeonsa Temple, and this is probably where you’ll eat. Also try the apple dongdongju (Korean rice wine).

SEE>Jusanju Pond is lined with gnarled willow trees, the roots of which are submerged beneath the pond’s surface when water levels are high enough (as they are in spring and the summer rainy season). In the early morning hours, when fog covers the pond surface, the view is beyond surreal.

 DO>If you can get up early, visit the park at daybreak, when the clouds and fog accumulate at the base of the rocky peaks.

STAY>The best option is to stay at Songso Gotaek (T. 054-873-0234, www.songso.co.kr), a former aristocrat’s home that is 130 years old.

FYI>tour.cs.go.kr

GO>Buses to Cheongsong depart from Seoul’s Dong Seoul Terminal (travel time: 4 hours).

The historic brick house that was the home of celebrated Korean painter Park No-soo (1927–2013) has been transformed into a public museum. Located in Ogin-dong in downtown Seoul’s Jongno district, the residence was completed in 1938 and features a fusion of Korean, Chinese and Western architectural styles of the early 20th century. Park lived there for most of his life and died early this year. In 2011, he donated his private collection of 1,000 artworks and possessions, allowing his home to become a public museum. The artist made a name for himself with controlled colors and simple drawings reinterpreted in a modern way.

EAT>The museum is located in the middle of the traditional village Seochon, which is home to a myriad of small Korean restaurants with unique culinary appeal.

BUY>Flea markets are held in front of Café Sequins every Saturday in Seochon.

SEE>The inaugural exhibition of Park’s 26 paintings will continue until Christmas. Admission is free.

FYI>T. 02-2148-4171

GO>Gyeongbokgung Station 경복궁역 (Line 3) Exit 3

The stock list includes quality-made Korean brands such as Needlework, Eastlogue, Blackship, Moss Green, Labor Day, and All-Knit Works. The unique shop sign—designed by owner Min Jae-ki—is a testament to the shop’s American workwear spirit.

FYI>
T. 02-337-4022
www.facebook.com/pages/Storage-Co/409831225746517
(서울시 마포구 서교동 328-18 | 328-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul)

GO>
Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2, A’REX), Exit 6.

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