The lull of a more languid land

You don’t need to head to the Caribbean to find charming tropical watering holes

The summer season is upon us with a vengeance. If you can’t manage plans to escape the confines of our fine concrete jungle for a seaside retreat, here are SEOUL’s suggestions for replicating the beachside boozing experience.

Written by Daisy Larios
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

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[box_light]Bonjour Hawaii | 봉주르 하와이[/box_light]

The signage may say “French and Pacific food” at Bonjour Hawaii, but items like the sushi pizza reveal a decidedly Japanese tilt. Dishes are adorned with corn on the cob, orchid flowers, and grilled pineapple, adding to the tropical feel, while the crinkle-cut french fries served with the BBQ plate awaken the nostalgia of cafeteria lunch fare. Mojitos and other tropical cocktails are served in jars and bedecked with the requisite cocktail umbrella, maraschino cherries, and honeycomb fruit cocktail stirrers befitting of any equatorial drink. Those looking to stay away from the overt sweetness of tiki cocktails can choose from a slew of Hitachino bottled beers from Japan’s Kiuchi Brewery. Things are largely “self-service” here, and you’ll need to order your food and drinks downstairs at the beach shack before finding a seat on one of the three floors. Bonjour Hawaii’s strength lies in the beachykitschy atmosphere generated by the abundance of astroturf, primary colors, beach umbrellas, wicker baskets, and playground-yellow milk crates, making the grounds look like a scene straight out of a 1960s beach party film—perfect for imagining yourself in the lull of a more languid land.

FYI>

T. 010-9756-5406
(서울시 마포구 서교동 395-112 | 395-112 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul)

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Hapjeong Station 합정역 (Line 2, 6), Exit 3

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The Bungalow’s tropical charm is evident right from the outset: the sultry red and gold accents fuse with the bamboo and exotic masks on the walls to make you feel as though you’ve been transported to a vaguely Southeast Asian locale. There is a cornucopia of rooms and seating options hidden in the nooks and crannies of this three-story establishment, including open-air seating, a bar, wicker cocoons for couples that swing from the ceiling, and more. But if Seoul’s signature summer heat and humidity have you dreaming of a white sand beach, try one of Bungalow’s sand rooms, where you can dig your toes into cool sand while sipping on fruity cocktails. There are also two jacuzzis, including one on the third-floor outdoor terrace; the combination of alcohol and hot tub is sure to help you unwind. You’ll need to call ahead to make a reservation if you want to snag that spot, though.
This Itaewon mainstay—it’s been lounging in the alley behind the Hamilton Hotel for about nine years now—has a full bar, offering everything from whisky, wine, and martinis to Bungalow’s signature tropical cocktails. Especially fun is the one served in a real coconut—nothing says summertime better!

FYI>
T. 02-793-2344
www.thebungalow.co.kr
(서울시 용산구 이태원1동 112-3 | 112-3 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul)

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Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 2

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Seoul doesn’t lack places to shop. Whether you’re looking for dried seaweed, pricey Korean antiques, or the latest in designer fashion, you’ll find it in Seoul.

Written by Daisy Larios
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Seoul’s bar scene is almost a microcosm of Korea’s breakneck ppalli-ppalli culture: cutthroat, ephemeral, overwhelming. Two fledgling businesses, though, have risen through the ranks for their dedication to handcrafted excellence.

[box_light]Magpie Brewing | 맥파이 브루잉[/box_light]

Tucked away behind the main road in rapidly gentrifying Gyeongnidan, Magpie Brewing has been crafting recipes and pouring brew at their beer store since April 2012. The cat out was soon let out of the proverbial bag, though, and Itaewon locals and far-flung fans of craft beer alike have been flooding into the new two-month-old Basement for a swig of quality brew. The co-owners—you might recognize two of them as the hosts of Arirang’s television program Semipermanent—were homebrewers in their pre-Korea days and have continued to ply their craft here.

The exposed piping and grey cinder blocks give the Basement an industrial feel, and the dark corners and low-hanging lights that inhabit the cave-like space threaten to resurrect the art of solo drinking. The menu in the Basement is just as minimalist as their decor: a pale ale, porter, and copper ale on tap, and slices of pizza and spicy almonds for the anju-inclined. Their no-frills approach is quite simply a reflection of Magpie’s singular focus: the beer. Magpie’s various brews—look for a summer seasonal sometime soon—are also on tap at select restaurants and bars around Seoul.

FYI>
Brewshop hours: Tue–Sun 2:30pm–10pm; Closed Mondays
Basement hours:  Tue–Sun 5pm–1am; Closed Mondays
http://magpiebrewing.com
(691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울시 용산구 이태원동 691)
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Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2

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[box_light]Limix Lab | 리믹스랩[/box_light]

As the name would suggest, Limix Lab—short for Liquor Mix Laboratory— is more than just a mere bar. Inspired by the microbrewing and microdistilling scene abroad and driven by a passion for libations, the two co-owners—graduates from Korea’s most competitive and prestigious university who gotsnapped up by Korea’s big chaebol conglomerates—abandoned the Korean Dream to try and create a culture where liquor is savored and given its due reverence rather than downed as quickly as possibly.

Playing off of the laboratory theme, Limix Lab’s interior gleams like a pristine arctic and steel altar to the liquor gods, and their playful concoctions will make skeptics of more creative alcoholic miscegenation have a change of heart. Their signature Limix vodkas are a sight to behold—jars infused with the colors of yuja (citron) and other fruits and flavors artfully line the wall like a madman’s collection of oddities. They’ve even recently started serving brunch and a variety of “A-fruit-canos” (Americanos with a shot of flavored liqueur) to those in need a lunchtime pick-me-up. Another popular item on the menu is the ice cream cocktails—an inebriating version of the oh-sopopular affogatos—and their extensive list of bottles and classic cocktails is sure to satisfy any connoisseur.

FYI>
Hours: Sun–Thurs, 11:30am–2am; Fri–Sat, 11:30am–5am
http://facebook.com/limixlab
T. 02-323-9875
(360-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul | 서울시 마포구 서교동 360-24)
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Sangsu Station 상수역 (Line 6), Exit 2

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[box_dark]TARTINE | 타르틴
Tartine Revives European Flavor[/box_dark]

Tartine Bakery & Café is a small pie shop in Itaewon with a French country decor. It serves authentic American pies, cookies, and cheesecakes; butter tarts; rich, dark drinking chocolate; and much more. All of their items are baked in their own kitchen throughout the day. The pie crusts are handcrafted from a recipe that has been in Chef Garrett Edwards’ family for generations. The flourless chocolate torte and cheesecake are unpretentious in flavor and texture. Pies are KRW 7,700, and large 10-inch pies are available by special order at KRW 42,000. Open from 10am to 10:30pm.

FYI>
T. 02-3785-3400
www.tartine.co.kr
(119-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul ㅣ서울시 용산구 이태원동 119-15)

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Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 1

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A FEAST FOR YOUR EYES
Devour some of Seoul’s finest views, and the cuisine that comes with them 

Written by Loren Cotter

Seoul is a skyscraper city with ample opportunities for dining in a picturesque setting. Whether you are at a peak of the metropolis’s surrounding mountain landscapes or south of the river in the hectic hub of Gangnam, you can undoubtedly discover an epic view of the Hangang River, hanok rooftops, or majestic skyscrapers. Uncover the cream of the crop through our guide to the most scene-stealing sights in the city and the restaurants from which to gaze upon them.

[box_light]Indulge with a sight of the Hangang, Seoul’s resplendent river[/box_light]

Walking On The Cloud, located near the top of the golden-faced 63 Building, is one high-rise dining option close to the Hangang River. Based in Yeouido, the view from the restaurant is truly dramatic—and the international menu has a price tag to match. An evening at the 59th floor location will set you back between KRW 96,000–230,000 for a multicourse set meal. The crayfish starter comes highly recommended, however, as does the magnificent view.

For more affordable fare at KRW 44,000 for an evening spread, Viking (T. 02-782-3344), an international buffet restaurant, has an excellent vista of the National Assembly at Yeouido—and the Hangang River behind it—from its 20th floor windows.

Looking for somewhere a little closer to the water? A Season of Secret Garden (T. 02-413-5535), an Italian floating restaurant and wine bar in Jamsil’s dock, is situated right on the Hangang itself, with full-length windows emphasizing the aquatic view. While the restaurant’s flashy exterior and interior decor may not be to everyone’s taste, the beautiful river landscape will be. Skip the overpriced desert (KRW 12,000) and make your way to one of nine cafes situated on the six bridges linking southern and northern Seoul afterwards.

Our top choice is Gureum Café (T. 02-3476-7999), where you can consume a soft drink or alcoholic beverage along with a spontaneous pork cutlet or steak meal while taking in Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain Show from spring to autumn.

Walking On The Cloud (59F) | 워킹온더클라우드

FYI>
T. 02-789-5904
www.63restaurant.co.kr, www.63wotc.co.kr
(60 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul | 서울시 영등포구 여의도동 60)
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Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4 or Saetgang Station 샛강역 (Line 9), Exit 1

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While downtown Itaewon has many a rooftop bar, the preeminent views in this zone can be found on higher grounds. The elite viewing spot near the notorious foreigner district is of course at Namsan Tower. The view at the North Seoul Tower is especially astonishing from the N Grill (T. 02- 3455-9297) restaurant, a high-class eatery with a Michelin-starred head chef, serving French food in a pleasant, rotating restaurant.

The Grand Hyatt Hotel’s The Terrace (T. 02-799-8166), with its international buffet and a la carte dining, also boasts excellent views of central Seoul. During spring to autumn, customers can dine on the quaint veranda and enjoy a stunning outlook of Hangang River. Akasaka (T. 02-799-8164), the Hyatt’s Japanese dining spot, displays a fix of visual nourishment from its full-length windows, too. Private dining is available for both restaurants and guarantees a view, but reservations are recommended.

Near the Hyatt is Rufxxx (T. 02-511-2570), this writer’s favorite bar in Seoul. Hidden in the alleyways of Gyeongnidan, a stone’s throw away from Itaewon, Rufxxx is an artist’s former studio that serves simple meals on its first floor. While you cannot dine with a view at this establishment, you can look forward to drinking an after-dinner cocktail on a rooftop that boasts the stunning sight of Mt. Namsan and the Yongsan district.

Il Vino Rosso (T. 02-7540-0113), a classic Italian restaurant, is located near the base of Mt. Namsan and has its own garden. Not only can you get a backyard view, you can also book a table with a Seoul scene below it.

Dominic (T. 02-790-7558), a swanky steakhouse near Hangangjin Station, has floor-to-ceiling back windows overlooking the rooftops of Hannam-dong. While the view won’t take your breath away, it is pleasant, and the sumptuous steak dishes are recommended by local food bloggers.

The Terrace (1F) | 더 테라스

FYI>
T. 02-799-8166
http://seoul.grand.hyatt.kr
(322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울시 용산구 소월로 322)
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Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 1

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[box_light]Samcheong-dong brings visual pleasure from its quaint hanoks and rooftops[/box_light]

International dining spot Romanee Conti (T. 02-722-1633) in Samcheong-dong is hanok heaven, set slightly further back up the hill in a rustic, comfortable setting with floor seating. Try to nab the best seat at the window to eat dishes such as coq au vin with a view of Mt. Bukhansan’s peak.

Baedongbaji (T. 02-777-9696), a well-priced hansik, home-style restaurant, is tucked away in the alleyways leading up from the main Samcheong-dong drag and can be difficult to find. When you do finally locate the beautifully traditional restaurant, you will be utterly charmed by its quaint interior, peaceful atmosphere, and friendly owner. To consume with a perfectly framed tableau of Mt. Bukhansan, ask for one of the two upstairs rooms that face the mountain.

The Restaurant (T. 02-735-8441), located next to Kukje Gallery, is more costly at up to KRW 148,000 for a 12-course Korean banquet, but has a beautiful, modern interior with a large window overlooking a portion of the outer wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace.

For outdoor eating, Café Breezin (T. 02-722-8120), a desert and coffee shop serving the usual waffles and honey bread, possesses a lovely open rooftop with a street and mountain view. The superlative panorama in the local area, unfortunately, does not serve dinner.

Go for post-supper drinks at wine and coffee bar Fatum’s outdoor terrace (T. 02-739-9888). Set higher than other shops in the area, Fatum provides a 180-degree panoramic view encompassing the older architecture in the vicinity of Samcheong-dong and some of the higher parts of Gyeongbokgung Palace, all the way down to Seoul’s modern skyscrapers. It can get a little chilly on the balcony due to the height, but blankets are provided, and customers can always move to an indoor, lower floor, where the views are still exquisite—especially if you manage to catch a particularly stunning sunset.

Fatum | 파튬

FYI>
T. 02-739-9888
(63-15 Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 삼청동 63-15)
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Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 1

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One of the best views in the Gangnam area is from the 52nd floor of the COEX’s InterContinental Hotel at the sumptuously decorated Marco Polo (T. 02-559-7620) Asian and Mediterranean restaurant. The window-facing booths compete with tables at the modern 30th floor Sky Lounge (T. 02- 3430-8630) for some of the greatest vistas of Seoul’s illustrious district.

Another local restaurant with a scenic outlook is Arancio (T. 02-3400- 7200), a 26th floor Italian brasserie near Yeoksam Station where pasta dishes start at KRW 25,000. The owners of this eatery are said to have spent KRW 20,000,000 on their orange-tinted lighting, deliberately chosen to recreate the natural radiance of Tuscany. While the food at Arancio is not spectacular, it is reasonably priced considering the view is anything but mundane. Make sure to call ahead to reserve seating besides the windows. Seoul’s most glamorous ward also plays host to restaurants with some offbeat views.

Charming Italian brasserie Buona Sera (T. 02-543-6668) and Asian fusion restaurant Zen Hideaway (T. 02-541-1461) both include leafy indoor gardens in the midst of their Apgujeong establishments.

On a sunny day, Korean restaurant Samwon Garden (T. 02-548-3030) is a worthy choice for a relaxing meal in gorgeous surroundings. Eat outdoors in the traditional garden with its waterfall and fishponds while flexing your chopstick skills on some tasty galbi and bulgogi.

Sky Lounge (30F) | 스카이 라운지

FYI>
T. 02-3430-8630
www.iccoex.com/eng/rest/list.do
(159 Samseong 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul | 서울시 강남구 삼성1동 159)
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Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), Exit 5 or 6

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Written and photographed by Daniel Gray

Dominic | 도미닉
(Hannam-dong)

Dominic in Hannam-dong is all about steak. You order a hunk of wet-marinated steak by weight and they grill it up and then serve it in a sizzling pan, Peter Luger-style. With your steak you get to pick an assortment of sides like baked mac n’ cheese, creamed spinach, salads, and more. The interior has a stylish New York loft feel to it, with very cool lights that are x-ray slides of light bulbs. To the back of the restaurant are large windows that showcase Seoul’s cityscape. The place is surprisingly intimate. The façade of the restaurant is cleverly behind a wall that shields the restaurant from the cold and the noise from the road. It is a perfect place for a business meeting or a date.

The service is polite and the food is tasty. On my first visit I started with an order of bruschetta. The bread was crispy and the bruschetta was topped with caramelized onion flavored with balsamic vinegar and fresh tomato, basil, and grated Parmesan cheese.

For the meal I ordered 300 grams of the rib eye (48,000 won, or 16,000 won for 100 grams), which was more than adequate to feed two (or possibly three). I ordered it medium, but it continued to cook in the sizzling, cast-iron pan. Next time I would probably get it rare. The steak was flavorful and good with the horseradish and Dijon mustard that came along with it.

To accompany the steak I ordered the creamed spinach and mac n’ cheese. The spinach was my favorite dish. It was very flavorful, and the hunk of bread that sopped up the cream was a treat. For my starch I got the mac n’ cheese, which had a very crispy, cheesy top and oven-baked corn. For dessert, I recommend the decadent chocolate souffle. The wine list is impressive as well, with many selections from around the world, such as a Pennywise Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (50,000 won).

Overall, if you are looking for a good date spot that will impress your companion, Dominic is definitely worth a visit.

Dominic | 도미닉
Great atmosphere, good NYC-style food

FYI>
Hours: 11am–11pm (weekdays);
11am–midnight (weekends)
Cost: 15,000–50,000 won per person
T. 02-790-7588
(683-133 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울시 용산구 한남동 683-133)

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Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3

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Reilly’s Taphouse and Restaurant | 라일리스탭하우스
(Itaewon)

Itaewon hasn’t always been one of the hot nightlife centers of Seoul. Itaewon used to have a bad reputation, which gave many expats the opportunity to set up businesses and restaurants here. One of these expats is the wily and affable Wayne Gold, who has had several businesses and bars over the years. His latest endeavor is Reilly’s Taphouse and Restaurant, which has over 20 domestic and international beers on tap including local favorites such as Magpie Porter, Geumkang Dark Ale, and even some of their own, like Reilly’s Peninsula Dark Ale. They have beers that I haven’t even seen in Korea before, such as Belgium ales and tripels. Reilly’s treats beers like wines. On their menu they even suggest beer pairings for the food. It is nice to know the brew pub is focusing on their entire concept and not just making food an afterthought.

The food is quite good as well. It is a mix of hipster gastropub and greasy pub fare. The onion rings are thick and the paprika dipping sauce is excellent. I thought the rosemary in the batter was a bit of overkill, but the beer batter made the rings quite crispy. They have an assortment of mussels as well, such as with tomato or cream sauce. The Scotch eggs were the best appetizer I tried. They are big and the egg is slightly yolky, with crisp pork and breading on the outside. Wow. The marinara sauce under it was rich and delicious as well. The marinara sauce was so good that next time I will have to get the meatballs.

They also have entrees. The tenderloin, served over potatoes and baked apples, showed that the chef had some skill. This was a hearty meal big enough to share, and the bourbon cream sauce matched it well. I have been told by several people that the star entree on the menu is the braised lamb shank with sweet potato. I will have to get that next time.

They have a giant burger as well. It is a feast and not one for sharing because the thick beef patty is topped with onion rings and veggies and held together with a huge steak knife. Once you grab on to this burger you just have to finish it.

Overall, a great hangout spot and a place to get good food. Next time you are in Itaewon, be sure to check it out.

Reilly’s Taphouse and Restaurant | 라일리스탭하우스
Great beer selection and food

FYI>
Hours: 5pm–2am (weekdays); 11am–3am (weekends)
Cost: 10,000–20,000 won per dish
T. 02-792-6590
(123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울시 용산구 이태원1동 123-32)

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Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 2

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© Seoul Selection

O’neul the Korean Cuisine | 레스토랑 오늘

(Itaewon)

Written and photographed by Daniel Gray

O’neul the Korean Cuisine offers refined Korean cuisine using local ingredients and modern techniques. The interior is impressive, with wood paneled walls, marble stairs, and rustic pottery. The many large windows let in plenty of light as well. The restaurant is located in Dongbinggo, which used to be the ancient area for ice production and storage. The food showcases the natural bounty of the land and the skill of the chefs. The meal starts with a black sesame porridge, which has a buttery and calming flavor to it. The rice has a just-out-of-the-steamer bite to it, and the soups have stocks with flavors that have been gently coaxed out. The white ox bone stock for the yukgyejang is clear here, and it is flavored with tender strands of beef and onion— a refined twist for the normally red stew. The kimchi jjigae with mackerel, which had aged 3-year-old kimchi in it, was robust in flavor and quite good for the cold winter day. My main course was the braised oxtail, which came out in a large cast-iron pan. The sauce was a savory soy reduction that made the beef fall from the bone. To finish, I had a green waffle made from mugwort, sweet rice, and ice cream. This was surprisingly quite good. It is nice to know there is a restaurant that can definitely walk the tightrope between modern and traditional Korean cuisine.

FYI>
Hours: lunch 12pm–3pm, dinner 6pm–10pm
Price: 20,000–40,000 won per person for lunch,
100,000 won + per person for dinner
T. 02-792-1054
(1-54 Dongbinggo-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울시 용산구 동빙고동 1-54)

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Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 4. Walk along Bogwang-ro and turn right nearby Bogwang-dong Office. Walk 200m along the road and cross the road in front of Brunei Embassy. The restaurant is located behind it.

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© Seoul Selection

Two Hands Burger | 투핸즈버거
(Haebangchon)

Yep, this place located in Haebangchon is aptly named—you do need two hands to eat these burgers. The burger juice, condiments, and maybe egg yolk (or chili) ooze out as you take a bite. The patties are chargrilled, the buns are whole wheat and toasted, and the fillings are piled on just right. I recommend their mushroom burger, which has plenty of mushrooms and cheese, and their Le Vert Burger, which has bacon, egg, cheese, and veggies. Their seasoned fries make a nice accompaniment (that and a beer).

© Seoul Selection

FYI>
Cost: 10,000 won a burger
11am–11pm
T. 02-6401-7705
(45-10 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울시 용산구 용산동2가 45-10)

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Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2

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