Written by Robert J. Fouser

A visit to a famous place in Seoul often turns up surprises in the streets and alleys nearby. One such place is Namsangol Hanok Village 남산골 한옥마을. Opened in 1998 on the site of a former military base, Namsangol Hanok Village is a collection of reconstructions of five important late 19th-century traditional Korean houses, or hanok, in Seoul. By the 1980s, pressure to build new and taller buildings in old parts of Seoul risked the destruction of some of the city’s most important old houses. Instead of destroying them, the city decided to move and rebuild the important buildings in a park with easy access to the center of city.
To get to the Namsangol Hanok Village (www.hanokmaeul.org, 9am–9pm, April to October, closed on Tuesdays), leave from Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3 and 4), Exit 3 and follow the signs as you walk toward Mt. Namsan. Near the entrance is a reconstruction of the garden and pavilions that sat on the site during the Joseon period (1392–1910). The rebuilt houses sit to the left of the garden. Each is unique and valuable for different reasons, but the most accurate reconstruction is that of the Yi Seungeop House 이승업가옥. The house was built by the master carpenter of the 1867 reconstruction of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Yi Seung-eop—and its exquisite details reflect his expertise.

The village also has the Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater 서울남산국악당 (http://sngad.sejongpac.or.kr/eng/main.asp), which holds performances of traditional Korean music and drama. The theater complex contains Danbansa 다반사 (T. 02-2272- 7951), a wonderful traditional Korean teahouse. Behind the buildings is a park-like walk leading to a time capsule that was buried in 1994 and is scheduled to be opened in 2394, the thousandth anniversary of the founding of Seoul.

Leaving Namsangol Hanok Village, return to Chungmuro Station and leave from Exit 5 on the other side of the street. Turn right at the first narrow street and then turn left at the next street. This takes you into the area of Seoul that is famous for film, photography, and printing design and production. In Korean film and design circles, the area is simply known as “Chungmuro 충무로.” Across the street from the massive light gray Kukdong Building, for example, you will find Munhyang Bookstore 문향서점 (T. 02-2274-5434), which specializes in imported books on design. Keep walking, cross the street, and at the beginning of the next block, you will come to Gallery Illum 갤러리 이룸 (www.galleryillum.co.kr), one of a few galleries in Seoul that specializes in photography. The small gallery has frequent week-long shows that show works by emerging young photographers in Korea. One the first floor of the building with Gallery Illum is a Leica shop, and a used camera shop is on the third floor. This serves as a good introduction to the nearby backstreets, which contain a number of used camera shops and camera supply shops. To find them, turn left at the corner where you crossed the street—you will begin to see a number of used camera shops. Wander around the side streets and enjoy the variety of used and collectible cameras.

Like other older areas of Seoul, Chungmuro has a number of trendy cafés, but it also has several 1970s-style tearooms and Uijeonbang, an old-fashioned “medicinal tearoom.” Follow your way back to the subway station using the Kukdong Building as your signpost, but turn left at the end of the block past that building. Walk straight, crossing several side streets, until you come to a narrow street that angles triangularly from the right. Take this street until you come to a light brown building with a red sign on the second floor. The narrow stairs lead to a small old-looking tearoom that offers some of Seoul’s best “medicinal” thick tea made from a combination of Korean medicinal herbs.

From here, follow your way back to the subway, but before you leave Chungmuro, think about having dinner at Daerimjeong 대림정 (www.daerimjung.co.kr, lunch 11:30am–2pm, dinner 5:30pm–8pm), a restaurant that specializes in
traditional Korean course meals. Daerimjeong faces the busy street near Exit 7 of Chungmuro Station.

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Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Line 3, 4), Exit 3

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© Seoul Selection

Samcheonggak is an exclusive Korean restaurant located on top of a hill near the presidential Blue House. Besides the modern main dining hall, there are also beautiful hanok buildings that can be used for private functions such as weddings or banquets. If you want to visit this place for the experience and just enjoy light refreshments, a casual restaurant is available also.

EAT>
Its menu features an impressive spread of delicious Korean dishes that have traditionally been enjoyed by royal and aristocratic families.

SEE>
Beginning at 11am from Monday to Friday, a special lunch concert program allows for an exciting chance to experience Korea’s traditional performing arts while dining. Tickets cost KRW  50,000 and KRW 70,000.

FYI>
T. 02-765-3700, www.samcheonggak.or.kr
The set menu price ranges from KRW 50,000 to KRW 150,000 per person.

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Take the free shuttle bus running hourly in front of Kyobo Book Centre.

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‘MAPPING’ SEOUL IN THE 1930s

Colonial cartography offers fascinating insights into a dark period in the capital’s history

Written by Robert J. Fouser 
Images courtesy of author

Historians know the power of maps as research tools. They know that maps, like other types of historical documentation, are accurate not in the absolute, but as reflections of society at a given point in time. Maps tell how space was organized in the past and how people defined it, giving information that helps develop, along with many other sources, the “story of the past.”

Maps of Seoul in the 20th century document the tremendous changes the city experienced in those 100 years. Amid the torrid climate of change, two periods stand out: the 1930s and the 1970s. These two decades brought rapid changes in maps, as city planners responded to surging population growth that began in the previous decades. From 1920 to 1940, the population jumped from 253,000 to 1,110,000; from 1960 to 1980, it jumped from 2,445,000 to 8,364,000. This explosive growth overwhelmed the city infrastructure at both times.

Colonial administration

Of the two periods, the 1930s are particularly interesting because it brought great change to the historic heart of Seoul, producing the urban paradigm that lasted until the 1970s when the Gangnam area was developed based on apartments and wide roads. Decisions about planning in the 1930s, of course, were in the hands of Japanese colonial rulers who looked to administrative centers in Japan for ideas. By 1940, Seoul, or Gyeongseong (Keijo in Japanese), as they called it, was the fifth largest city in Imperial Japan, ranking between Kyoto and Yokohama.

A map printed from the early 1930s says much about Seoul after a decade of growth in the 1920s. Areas of grey dots and the largely intact Seoul Wall are most noticeable. The grey dots indicate urban areas and fill most of the area inside the wall, but also expand to the south and west, areas that developed after the Japanese destroyed the city wall. Itaewon was the center of the Japanese military and was secluded from the rest of the city by Mt. Namsan and the hills in what are now Hannam-dong and Yaksu-dong.

Dissolving social classes

Of particular interest are the white spaces in the Bukchon area. Anguk-dong and areas closer to Gyeongbokgung Palace were dense, but Gahoe-dong and Gye-dong, popular tourist spots today, were largely white space. By contrast, Seochon, the area on the other side of the palace, was more densely developed. The streetcar line running along the west side of the palace and larger areas of flat land help explain the difference at this time.

A map printed in the late 1930s shows many of the changes that took place in that decade. Rapid development of Gahoe-dong and Gye-dong occurred in the mid-1930s and this map show more streets and alleys. The collapse of Joseon society after Japanese colonial rule began in 1910 gradually impoverished the aristocratic families that had lived in Bukchon. By the 1930s, they were forced to sell their large estates, which were divided into smaller lots for the densely packed rows of Koreanstyle city houses, or “city hanok.”

Increasing urban spread and Japanization

By the late 1930s, the city had filled in the area inside the walls and had spread well beyond them. In the earlier map, Daehak-ro and Hyehwa-dong were white space, except for Gyeongseong Imperial University, the forerunner of Seoul National University. By the end of the decade, the area was full of roads and alleys. Part of the city wall near Dongdaemun had been destroyed, and two street car lines expanded east. Earlier growth in Yongsan had spread to Mapo, and the map showed Noryangjin, one of the first areas on the south side of the Han River to be urbanized. Noryangjin and Yeongdeungpo, the first primary industrial areas of Seoul, were incorporated into the city in 1936 (Yeouido was a swamp and not shown on most maps).

The growth of Seoul in the 1930s also reflects the weight of efforts to “Japanize” Ko r e a . The earlier map gave local neighborhood names for areas in northern half of the city in Korean (“dong”) and in Japanese (“cho”) for areas in the southern half. This reflects the pattern of settlement that emerged during the colonial period in which Japanese dominated the southern half of the city and Koreans the northern half. In the map from the late 1930s, all of the neighborhoods are given in Japanese, which reflects the “Japanization” of the city both as policy and as demographics.

Reading maps of Seoul in the 1930s shows a city changing from a compact administrative center to a large metropolis with a diverse economy. These maps also show the extent of colonial oppression and stand as reminders of the struggle for ownership of history that continues in Korea to this day.

ⓒ Seoul Selection

Samcheong-dong | 삼청동

Samcheong-dong’s unique mix of traditional hanok-style buildings, modern art galleries, comfy cafés, and excellent restaurants makes it a huge draw. Samcheong-dong is a melting pot of old and new, East and West, that wonderfully demonstrates Seoul’s evolving culture. Taking a walk and appreciating this peaceful, quaint area is a journey in itself.

EAT>
Check out El Casa for tapas. This eatery is a Spanish restaurant and features mostly seafood. The two-story building has large windows and an atmosphere like a Spanish home.

BUY>
The newly-opened Kiehl’s Boutique is stocked with the latest cosmetics, haircare, skincare items from New York.

SEE>
No other district in Seoul offers a higher concentration of contemporary art galleries and shops than this area. Hak Go Jae and Gallery Hyundai garner much of Korea’s critical acclaim, as do Kukje and Artsonje Galleries.

FYI>
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SH/whereToShop/whereToShop.jsp?action=about&cid=995817
(Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 삼청동)

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Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 1

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Seoul’s Hanok Island

Unhyeongung Royal Residence and Ikseon-dong | 운현궁과 익선동

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Written by Robert J. Fouser

Photographed by Robert Koehler

ⓒ Seoul Selection

Seoul is full of surprises in the most unlikely of places. The eclectic area that sits between Insa-dong to the west and Jongmyo to the east is the quintessential surprising place in the center of Seoul.

The best way to begin exploring the area is to leave Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3) from Exit 4. The first stop is Unhyeongung Royal Residence 운현궁, originally built in the 14th century and rebuilt many times since, most recently in the 1860s. Heungseon Daewongun (1820–1898), the powerful prince regent of Korea during the minority of his son King Gojong (r. 1863–1907), lived in the palace. Heungseon Daewongun is remembered for his isolationism and sponsorship of vast rebuilding projects in Seoul.

The current buildings date from the 1860s and were restored in 1993 by the Seoul city government. The palace is an excellent example of a detached palace that housed members of the royal family during the Joseon Dynasty. The four remaining traditional buildings are excellent examples of traditional palace architecture. King Gojong and Empress Myeongseong (1851–1895) were married in the palace in 1866, and a reenactment of the royal wedding takes place every year in the spring and fall. Empress Myeongseong, commonly referred to as Queen Min, was assassinated in 1895 under orders from the Japanese Minister to Korea because of her anti-Japanese leanings. The palace is open from 9am to 6pm (November to March) and from 9am to 7pm (April to October).

Behind the palace is the white baroque style Unhyeongung Yanggwan 운현궁양관 that sits on the campus of Deokseong University. Built in 1912 by the Yi Jun, the grandson of the Heungseon Daewongun, the house now sits on the campus of Duksung Women’s University.

ⓒ Seoul Selection

From the Unhyeongung Royal Residence, head south and walk past an elementary school. Turn left, walk past the Crown Hotel, and then turn right at the next alley, walking past a parking lot on your left. Go straight until the end of the alley and then turn right. This brings you to the entrance of Ikseon-dong 익선동, the largest concentration of hanok, or traditional Korean-style houses, outside of Bukchon. Unlike Bukchon, none of the hanok in Ikseon-dong have been renovated because the area is still in midst of a heated debate over redevelopment plans. The debate over redevelopment has inhibited owners from maintaining their houses, leaving many badly in need of repair.

Despite the problems, however, Ikseon-dong is the best example of an authentic 20th-century hanok neighborhood. Ikseon-dong is also important in the history of hanok because it is the second “hanok development” of the 1930s in which developers built rows of traditional-style Korean houses of similar size. The declining economic fortunes of the royal family and aristocratic estates during the Japanese colonial period (1910–45) forced owners to sell land in central Seoul. Developers bought the land and then divided it into small lots and built alleys on a grid. The first hanok development was the large houses in Gahoi-dong, but the houses in the Ikseon-dong development where smaller and less expensive.

The heart of Ikseon-dong is four long north–south alleys, all lined with hanok. Weave through the alleys and notice the individual character of each house. The decorations on the doors and the material and decoration on the walls all differ. The houses have undergone layers of change since the 1930s, and today many of the houses are used as boarding houses, with different people renting a room or two in the same house.

ⓒ Seoul Selection

After walking through the alleys, walk toward the entrance of Ikseon-dong and take note of Tteuran 뜰안 (T. 02-745-7420), a tea house at the end of the alley near the parking lot. The tea house serves traditional Korean tea and offers a rare chance to see the inside of an Ikseon-dong hanok. From there, return to the street with the Crown Hotel and walk to the corner. Going straight takes you to Insa-dong, with its traditional shops and restaurants. Turning right takes you back to Anguk Station.

FYI>
Unhyeongung Royal Residence
T. 02-766-9090, www.unhyeongung.or.kr
(114-10 Unni-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 운니동 114-10)

Tteuran
T. 02-745-7420
(166-76, Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 익선동 166-76)

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Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 4

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Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

ⓒ Seoul Selection

It’s lunchtime, and Jo Chang-yeon is waiting at the top of an alley as a group of film students shoots some footage of scenery. A photographer, he comes here at least once a month. “It’s easy to get lost in here and discover new things,” he says.

That’s probably the best way to sum up Bukchon. There are few other older neighborhoods in Seoul that have managed to survive more or less intact through Korea’s turbulent 20th century history, but Bukchon is by far the largest, and the most picturesque. Its winding alleys lined by stately Korean homes are best explored slowly, and with only the most rudimentary of plans. The goal here is to get lost, discovering what Bukchon has to offer each corner at a time.

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Bukchon, or “North Village,” takes its name from its location north of two of old Seoul’s landmarks: Jongno Street and Cheonggyecheon Stream. Its position on the hills between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces is much more defining, however. In the Joseon Dynasty, high officials kept large estates in the area, where they enjoyed easy access to the throne and fine views of the royal capital.

In the early 20th century, however, Seoul began to modernize; as it did, its population skyrocketed. To relieve the pressures, the large estates here were divided into smaller plots. On the plots were built hanok, or “Korean homes,” easily recognized by their graceful, curved roofs. Unlike their country cousins, however, these hanok were densely packed, townhouse-style, into the alleys that spread along the hills like the veins of a leaf. The result, when seen from above, resembles a cascading sea of black roof tiles.

For much of the 20th century, Bukchon was the wealthiest neighborhood in Seoul. In the 1970s, however, the development of the tony Gangnam district sparked a demographic shift as many of the wealthy moved south of the Hangang River. In the 1990s, many of the hanok were torn down to make way for unsightly multifamily homes. This caused concern, and in 2001, Seoul City and local residents got together to launch a program to allow residents to update their homes while preserving the hanok’s unique beauty and the singular charm of the neighborhood.

ⓒ Seoul Selection

[box_light]31 Gahoe-dong[/box_light]

The Bukchon area is home to about 900 hanok homes, but the two biggest clusters are along two alleys, 31 Gahoe-dong in the west and 11 Gahoe-dong in the east.

Of these, 31 Gahoe-dong is by far the most visited. It’s easy to see why: set on a hill, the inclined street climbs steeply to the top, not unlike San Francisco’s Lombard Street (minus the hairpin turns), and is lined bottom to top by handsome old hanok homes with their rustically decorated stone and brick walls. From the bottom, it’s a picture-perfect vision of old Korean charm. From the top, it’s a postcard clash of old and new, the tile roofs striking a dramatic contrast with the skyscrapers in the backdrop. In the distance, Mt. Namsan looms like a folding screen. Of Bukchon’s eight most scenic spots—the so-called Bukchon Palgyeong—three can be found on this road (or just overlooking it) alone.

Come here any day of the week, and you’ll find groups of people gathered at the bottom and top of the street, posing for group photos or just pausing to admire the view. At the top of the hill, American Peter Goughnour is touring the area with some Korean friends of his. Asked what he thinks of the area, he says, “It’s one of the few neighborhoods still around in the old Korean traditional style.” Oh Junho, a film student shooting some practice film in the area, puts it succinctly, “This is Korean beauty.”

Simsimheon
ⓒ Seoul Selection

Most of the homes here are, well, homes and therefore off-limits to the public. One home, however, is open and well-worth the visit. Simsimheon (admission: 10,000 won. simsimheon. com), or “House Where the Heart is Found,” is a private residence currently operated by the National

Trust of Korea, an NGO working to protect Korea’s environmental and historical heritage. Built in 2002 by master craftsman Jung Yeong-soo, it’s a perfect blend of Korean traditional charm and modern convenience. The National Trust of Korea’s Chung Young-jin, who shows Japanese and Englishspeaking guests around the home, explains, “None of the homes in Bukchon are open to the public. Here, visitors can experience the hanok, the hanok lifestyle, the furniture and the layout.” Typical of Korean traditional architecture, the hanok strikes a harmony with nature. Wood is left unpainted and unprocessed, architectural elements like the ceiling rafters are exposed. Simsimheon’s courtyard, a grass garden with a couple of crooked red pines, a rough-hewn stone basin and some stone steps, connects the home with nature and provides a relaxing visual element. Each window presents its own enchanting view. Even the furnishings are works by master artisans. Says Chung, “Everything here is a work of art.” It’s an experience best enjoyed over a cup of homemade plum tea, which is served to visitors.

[box_light]Coffee and tea[/box_light]

Cha Masineun Tteul
ⓒ Seoul Selection

While mostly residential, Bukchon does have a couple of spots where the weak and weary can stop for a bit of refreshment. Cha Masineun Tteul (T. 02-722-7006), or “The Garden Where Tea Is Drunk,” is a gorgeous old hanok perched on a hill near 31 Gahoe-dong; true to its name, it surrounds a lovely garden. Plate-glass walls allows guests to appreciate the surroundings as they enjoy their hot beverage of choice. The hobak sirutteok, or pumpkin rice cake, is especially delightful.

Coffee Bangatgan
ⓒ Seoul Selection

Coffee Bangatgan (T. 02-732-7656), or “Coffee Mill,” is a cozy, atmospheric coffee shop hidden in an alley near Jeongdok Public Library. The roguishly good-looking guy manning the expresso machine is Lee Gyeong-hwan, who moved to the renovated hanok from a nearby location in 2011. Complaining about the overcommercialization elsewhere in the city, he says, “I feel at peace here.” He filled the renovated hanok with a miscellany of antiques and other vintage items, giving it a lived-in feel reminiscent of your Korean grandmother’s home. “Some of the younger customers find it a bit unfamiliar,” says Lee, “But to older customers, it’s like the home they used to live in when they were young.” Along the walls are portraits sketched by Lee himself; for customers, he’ll draw you up a quick portrait for just 5,000 won. The waffles are a real treat, but the draw is the coffee, brewed from fair-trade beans.

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Tip: Experience the hanok

If you’d like to spend a night in a Bukchon hanok (highly recommended!), a number of homes have been renovated as guest houses. The nicest—and priciest—of the bunch is Rak-Ko-Jae (see “Places to Stay, p16”). The friendly Sophia Guest House (T. 02-720-5467), in an alley near Jeongdok Public Library, has single rooms beginning at 35,000 won a night (breakfast included). Bukchon Guest House (T. 010-6711-6717),
on the road in front of Jungang High School, has single rooms beginning at 40,000 won a night; cultural classes and programs offered, too.

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Tip: Be quiet!

Bukchon is a residential neighborhood. As you explore, respect the neighbors and keep your voice down.

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Tip: Bukchon tours

SEOUL’s executive editor Robert Koehler conducts walking tours of Bukchon every Saturday at 2:30pm. Tours depart from Seoul Selection Bookshop next to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Cost: 30,000 won. Call the bookshop at 02-734-9565 for more information.

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Exit 2, Anguk Station, Line 3. Head up the stonewalled alley to Jeongdok Public Library, in front of which you’ll find a tourism information booth. Pick up a map there—they’re very helpful.

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Ayasophia Wedding Dress | 아야소피아 웨딩드레스

This cozy hanok shop hidden away in an alley near Bukchon’s Jeongdok Library deals almost exclusively in wedding dresses. You can try on dresses before making up your mind, and the friendly owner even provides refreshments as you shop. Prices are quite reasonable, just $200 to $600. Reception dresses, wedding shoes, and wedding accessories can be purchased at reasonable prices, too. For the time being, when you buy a dress, they’ll throw in an accessory for free.

FYI>
T. 070-7518-1088, www.aya-sophia.com
(32-18 Jae-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 재동 32-18)

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Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 1

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© Seoul Selection

© Seoul Selection

Unhyeongung Palace | 운현궁

Unhyeongung Palace is not, technically speaking, a palace at all, but rather a grand mansion that was originally the home of Heungseon Daewongun (1821–1898), the arch-conservative prince regent who dominated the Korean political scene for much of the late 19th century. In addition to being the Daewongun’s home and seat of power, it was also the birthplace of his son, the future King Gojong, who spent his first 12 years here. Like many of Seoul’s other palaces, time has not been kind to Unhyeongung. What you see today is only a portion of the original residence, much of which was demolished, damaged, or destroyed during the Japanese colonial period and Korean War. What remains, however, makes for an enchanting stroll in one of Korea’s most sublime examples of Joseon-era residential architecture.

EAT>
Across the street from Unhyeongung Palace is the atmospheric Mingadaheon (Min’s Club) 민가다헌 (T. 02-733-2966), a renovated Korean hanok home serving excellent Korean/Western fusion cuisine.

The home, built in the 1930s by famed Korean architect Park Gil-ryong, brings to mind a Victorianera social club.

BUY>
Not far from Unhyeongung are the antique and craft shops of Insa-dong.

SEE>
Also across the street from Unhyeongung Palace is Cheondogyo Central Temple, an imposing Art Nouveau landmark completed in 1921. The hall serves as the main temple of Korea’s indigenous Cheondogyo religion.

FYI>
Hours: 9am–6pm, closed Mondays
Admission: 700 won
T. 02-766-9090, www.unhyeongung.or.kr
(114-10 Unni-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 운니동 114-10)

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Short walk from Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 4

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