[box_dark]Donggang River | 동강[/box_dark]

A tributary of the Namhangang River, the Donggang River is home to some of Gangwon-do’s wildest scenery. In summer, it’s the mecca of Korea’s river rafting community, its swift waters flowing past a beautifully rugged landscape. You don’t have to be an experienced rafter to enjoy the experience—in fact, rafting on the Donggang is a popular family outing.
The Donggang River snakes through the mountains in a series of hairpin curves. The heart of the rafting route is the Eorayeon, an especially scenic bend in the river. Even if you’re not into rafting, it’s worth hiking the surrounding hills for the majestic views of the river and endless ridges.

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People in Gangwon-do love their buckwheat, so you’ll find plenty of places doing makguksu(cold buckwheat noodles) and memil jeonbyeong (buckwheat crepes).

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A popular site is Seonam Village, a bend in the river that looks like the Korean Peninsula. For something completely different though, the temple of Bodeoksa (just outside of downtown Yeongwol) is home to an outhouse built in 1882—it is, as far as this writer knows, the only bathroom in Korea designated as a cultural property.

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If rafting and hiking isn’t your thing, you can go paragliding from Yeongwol’s Byeolmaro Observatory.

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The Donggang and its environs are full of pension houses.

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There are lots of rafting companies near the start of the Eorayeon course.
(Yeongwol-eup, Yeongwol-gun, Gangwon-do | 강원도 영월군 영월읍)

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Buses to Yeongwol depart from Seoul’s Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hrs, 20 min).

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Korea’s lake country gets even better in winter

Written by Steve Miller
Photographed by Robert Koehler and the Sancheoneo Ice Festival

Tip: Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival

Selected by CNN and the Lonely Planet as one of Asia’s top winter festivals, the Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (Jan 5–27) is the time to visit this wild piece of Korea. This fun event, a celebration of the region’s famous mountain trout (Korean: sancheoneo), features ice fishing (including bare-handed ice fishing!), ice sculptures, good food and plenty of cultural events.

© Seoul Selection

Paroho Lake, a scenic and historic reservoir created by Hwacheon Dam

Seoul is a sprawling megacity encompassing a staggering 605.21㎢. The seemingly endless asphalt roads and skyscrapers reaching for the sky allow for some ten million-plus permanent residents (and another ten million in the surrounding areas). When in Korea’s nexus, it’s not impossible to find great restaurants or beauty, but what is nearly impossible is finding wide-open spaces. For this, nature lovers must trek to the countryside. A number of rural towns are worthy of such excursions, but rarely do many get a tourism boost along the likes of Hwacheon (화천) in Gangwon-do Province.

Hwacheon

Situated close to Korea’s Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Hwacheon boasts a relatively small population of just over twenty thousand souls. In fact, being so close to the border, the town has a significant military presence that can’t be ignored. Most of the year, the military outnumber civilians, except in January when over one million people descend on the small hamlet for the annual Sancheoneo (Mount Trout) Ice Festival (Jan 5–27, www.narafestival.com).

Unlike the populated metropolis to the east, Hwacheon is still very much a slow, rural town. Peering at a local tourist map gives the illusion that the town is much larger than it really is, for one can easily walk from one side to another in under an hour. During winter, crisscrossing the narrow, icy roads elicits memories of walking through American towns of the same size, a most welcomed change from the hurried life in Seoul.

Carving through the earth’s crust, a winding waterway creates some great spots for fishing year round, although the city is most known for the wintery version of this pastime when ice creeps over its surface. Since Hwacheon isn’t burdened with buildings reaching for thesky, those visiting enjoy uninterrupted views of Gangwon-do’s blue skies, peppered with puffy white clouds. When views are periodically obstructed, it’s by the hilltops rising up from the earth. Photography enthusiasts benefit from this, as there is no shortage of interesting angles and subjects to capture.

Get Your Grub On

One can’t travel on an empty stomach, and let’s face it, if you’re making the trip away from Seoul, by the time you make it into town—you’re going to want something to eat. Like most of Korea, there are several major franchises staking claims on street corners, luring you in with specials of the month. However, as anyone can tell you, the charm of small towns is in the family-owned restaurants—the ones that exist in only one location and offer truly unique experiences.

Photo by Steve Miller

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Hwacheon, with its proximity to water, is famous for its fresh seafood, but the culinary talents don’t end there. Among the city’s specialties are Ode and Togomi Rice—special pesticide-free grains that are wind dried and stored in low temperatures. The area also has many tomatoes, so it’s no wonder that residents combine this fruit with the region’s famous potatoes to make some savory rice cakes. But for the carnivorous traveler, sampling Hwacheon’s Jasira Pork might just be the winning ticket. According to locals, the swine meat is low in cholesterol thanks to its unique diet, which includes powdered pinecones.

Adjacent to the intercity bus terminal is Gangmi Restaurant 강미식당 (T. 033-442-5252), a family-owned restaurant known for its delicious and healthy-sized portions. If arriving around lunchtime, be sure to get there early, for it is not uncommon to find every table filled shortly after the noon hour. The samgyeopsal (pork) arrived on a plate accompanied by a host of side dishes sure to satisfy any appetite. Slabs of samgyeopsal were served fresh and thick. Eyeballing each strip of pork, I estimated each was easily more than two centimeters thick, and when placed on the grill, they created a delightful sizzling sound. While I cannot attest to any unique flavor induced from powdered pinecones, I can confirm the meat was tasty and hit the spot.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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One might think the best thing to do in such a small mountain town would be to sit and watch the grass grow. Nothing could be further from the truth. The city operates weekend tours to several popular destinations, including some inside the DMZ. Tours are limited to twenty people and reservations must be made and paid for ten days in advance (to gain DMZ access). Stops on this daylong tour include the Hwacheon Folklore Museum, the Peace Dam, local nature sites, and museums. The tour costs 15,000 won (13 years and over) and 10,000 won (12 years and under). For more information, reservations, and payment instructions visit http://ihc.go.kr/tour (T. 033-440-2852).

Since the aforementioned tours are fairly limited in size, most traveling to Hwacheon will be setting out on their own. Bus service is available but isn’t nearly as robust as Seoul’s transportation, so getting around to local attractions may mean venturing out in the cold winter air or, better yet, by taxi. If making the trip in summer, ample biking and walking paths circumnavigate the city, leading to a most decidedly awesome outdoor experience.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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Some of the more interesting things to see in and around town are Watermill Park and the Mount Ddansan Waterfall. Just a five-minute walk from the bus terminal, the watermill is the nation’s largest, measuring a staggering 15m in diameter. The park isn’t bustling with activity on most winter days, but inventive visitors make use of the gentle slopes surrounding the park’s central pedestal by sliding down and frolicking in the snow.

Much more scenic is the waterfall, which in winter is completely frozen. Taking a cab there is probably one’s best bet, but local bus 7 makes the trip there as well. Aside from snapping a few pictures of the frozen waterfall, there’s not much to do here in winter, and the nearby resort/amusement park is mainly frequented in the summer. Those venturing this way would be better served taking a cab, since the Hwacheon Dam is nearby. This historic structure was built by the Japanese
in 1944 and played a significant and bloody role in the Korean War. A beautiful pavilion overlooks the reservoir, providing an exceptional backdrop for stunning photographs.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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There are about 20 or so motels and yeogwans (Korean-style inns) in Hwacheon. Most are pleasant enough and offer rooms at around 35,000–50,000 won a night, depending on the time of year and their size. If you are looking for something a bit more luxurious, you might want to look in Chuncheon, where there is a much wider range of accommodation.

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If traveling to Hwacheon, a stop at the bus terminal is a must, not only because most arriving in town do so at this location, but also because a local Tourism Information office is housed there. Any questions about tours, restaurants, accommodations, and traveling to locations are easily asked and answered, making the trip easy and worthwhile. www.ihc.go.kr/foreign/eng

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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Direct rail service isn’t available to Hwacheon. The only way to arrive in this mountain town by public transport is by bus. Direct intercity buses leave from Seoul’s Dong Seoul and Sang Bong terminals. Each has buses leaving throughout the day. The trip from Dong Seoul takes 2 hours 40 minutes and will set your bank account back 12,900 won. Those wanting a more scenic trip have the option of taking the new ITX from Yongsan Station to Chuncheon (departing every hour, on the hour). The trip takes just over an hour. Once in Chuncheon, cross the street outside Exit 1, veer left towards the bus stop, and wait for the intercity bus bound for Hwacheon. There are thirty a day, about two per hour. For extra help in making the transfer, a Tourist Information booth is located just outside the station. The ride from Chuncheon to Hwacheon is about an hour, putting one’s total travel time at just under two hours, provided all connections are made. It’s a faster and cheaper alternative, especially if getting into central Seoul is easier than making it to either Dong Seoul or Sang Bong Terminals.

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Yongpyong Ski Resort is Korea’s premier ski destination. Located high in the dramatic mountains of central Korea, the resort combines fantastic scenery, first-class facilities, and a whole lot of fun. One of the principle venues of the upcoming 2018 Winter Olympics, it draws visitors from all over Korea, Asia, and the rest of the world.
The resort has got 28 ski slopes in all, graded beginner to expert; the pros will want to make for the Rainbow Slopes. The resort’s 15 lifts will get you to where you want to go, and even non-skiers will want to take the 3.7km cable car to the top of Mt.Balwangsan (1,458m), where you’ll find the iconic Swiss chalet-style restaurant/coffee shop called Dragon Peak. Snowboarders will find much to like, too. At the bottom of the slopes is Dragon Plaza, the largest ski house in Asia.
Compared to some of the world’s better known ski resorts, the apres-ski scene is still a work in progress, but there are still plenty of entertainment options available for after you’re done with your runs.

ⓒ Yongpyong Ski Resort

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There are Korean and Western restaurants at Dragon Peak, the chalet-like building at the top of Mt.Balwangsan. The spaghetti is quite good, and the views are even better.

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The sunrise from the peak of Mt.Balwangsan.

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Future Olympians should test themselves on Rainbow I (1,630m), Yongpyong’s longest slope.

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Yongpyong Resort offers a range of accommodations options. Those on a budget will want to use the Yongpyong Hostel. Be sure to make reservations early, though (T. 02-3270-1231)!

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Lift passes are 36,000–89,000 won.
Rental equipment available.
T. 02-3270-1231, www.yongpyong.co.kr.
(130 Yongsan-ri, Daegwallyeong-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-don | 강원도 평창군 대관령면 용산리 130)

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Shuttle bus service available from Seoul’s Lotte World. See website for details.

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© Seorak Waterpia

Seorak Waterpia | 설악 워터피아

Nestled in scenic Seoraksan Mountain, Seorak Waterpia is a large theme park offering a wide variety of leisure activities and hot springs. Its outdoor saunas not only soothe your soul but command a magnificent view overlooking the snow-covered Alps of Korea. In addition to the usual water park facilities, there is also a theme park with water rafts and body slides. The mineral water they use comes from a nearby location and is rich in sodium, calcium, magnesium, carbonic acid, and sulfuric acid.

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The in-house food court and other dining outlets offer standard meals and snacks. But a simple bus trip to Sokcho’s pier market areas offers an eye-opening dining experience.

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The in-house condo offers a variety of accommodations, with the rate depending on the number of people sharing the unit. You can also opt to stay in the downtown Sokcho area.

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Waterpia’s 18-hole golf course and the many other attractions of Seorak Plaza Land make it an ideal place for families to relax. If you are refreshed enough from the hot springs, try exploring Seoraksan in a quicker but more convenient way, via the cable car. There are many local bus routes going to the cable car station.

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T. 033-630-5500, 033-630-5800
www.seorakwaterpia.com (Korean, English)
Admission is 38,000 won for adults, 28,000 won for children.
(24-1 Jangsa-dong, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do | 강원도 속초시 장사동 24-1)

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Take a bus at Sokcho Bus Terminal and get off at the Sokcho fire department. Take bus No. 3 or 3-1 across from the fire department and get off at Hanwha Resort (about 15 minutes).

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