Trek to northwest Seoul, where the mountains hold sway

In northwestern Seoul, the mountains are more a part of the urban fabric than elsewhere in the city; they flex their geographical muscles, so to speak, dictating where buildings can be built, how neighborhoods can be shaped and where transportation can be placed. The result is an enclave where development is more difficult, large-scale complexes are fewer and older communities last longer.

Water and earth

Near the station are features common to many Seoul neighborhoods, but they have added appeal when viewed with Hongje’s fresher air and slower pace. Browsing alongside brightly clad hikers, you can check out Inwang Market, taking in the ocean-y tang of the seafood and the earthy sweetness of local lettuce leaves. Nearby is the Hongje Stream, where pairs of mallards search for food beneath the canopy of the elevated expressway.

Thanks to the mountains’ restriction of space, several of the area’s other attractions require a bus ride from the station. One of these is the Seodaemun Museum of Natural History, where kids can learn about the geological, biological and environmental histories of both Earth and the Korean peninsula. Exhibits include model skeletons, 3-D movies and dioramas that cover rocks and minerals, volcanic systems and (every kid’s favorite) dinosaurs, to name a few. Additionally, SMNH offers other programs and services for kids, including a library, fossil excavation garden and field trips. Undoubtedly the best, though, is its child docent program, where students can be trained to lead museum tours themselves.

Moon village

Another short bus ride away is Gaemi Maeul, meaning “Ant Village,” named as a testament to its residents’ diligence. The area is one of the city’s last remaining daldongnae, mountainside communities formed by poor Koreans arriving in Seoul after the Korean War. Daldongnae means “moon village,” referring to the villages’ closer view of the moon, but the pretty moniker belies the fact that these are poor communities, undeveloped and scarcely changed from when they were first formed, thanks largely to their mountainside location.

Fortunately for Gaemi Maeul, its appearance was brightened up several years ago courtesy of an urban art project wherein local university students filled its walls with colorful murals. Today, alongside its elderly residents, the village is filled with paintings of flowers, animals and abstract designs, making it an unexpected tourist attraction. More than simply providing a photo-worthy backdrop, however, the murals’ most positive effect may be to draw visitors here and open their eyes to a harder, oft-overlooked side of Seoul life.

Inwang Market 인왕시장/ Exit 1
Right on Inwang Market-gil (인왕시장길)

Hongje Stream 홍제천/ Exit 4
Left on Yeonhee-ro (연희로)

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History 서대문자연사박물관/ Exit 3
bus stop, take bus 7738 to 서대문자연사stop
T. 02-330-8899
namu.sdm.go.kr
17:00 (Opening hours extended by one hour on weekends and holidays);
s Day, Seollal, Chuseok and Tuesdays when Monday is a holiday
2,000; Children Free; Seodaemun residents receive a 50% discount

Gaemi Maeul 개미 마을/ Exit 1
U-turn, take maeul bus no. 7 to the last stop

Written by Charles Usher

Photographed by Melissa Quek

Eating can be a path to enlightenment[/box_light]

Written by Joe McPherson

Temple cuisine’s roots go way back, yet still manage to find themselves in sync with modern food trends. It’s vegan. It’s seasonal. It’s local. It’s organic. Nothing refined, like sugar, will make its way into a temple dish. On top of that, there are five forbidden vegetables that when eaten raw incite anger, and when eaten cooked encourage sexual mischief. These include garlic, leeks, chives, onions and scallions. With these challenges, to say temple cooks need to be creative is a bit of an understatement.

Fortunately, however, this creativity produces an array of exciting, exotic flavors. Shellfish and fish sauce can’t be used in making kimchi, so ripened persimmons come into play. Floral fruit extracts replace sugars. Wild sesame, mountain herbs and homemade vinegars take the place vacated by garlic and onions. An elegant cuisine blossoms from these challenges.

A typical temple dish is yeonip bap, or lotus leaf rice. Freshly harvested sticky rice is steamed in a lotus leaf with Korean dates, pine nuts, chestnuts, gingko nuts and beans to produce an aromatic steam bath of flavors.

Temples conduct baru ceremonies, which are, in essence, eating meditations. It’s an elaborate gustatory exercise involving four wooden inset bowls, one for rice, one for soup and two for vegetables. There is a procedure, but the goal of the meal is to slow down and think about your food: Think about where it came from, who harvested it, who cooked it. Think about the people in your life. Think about the bite you are eating now, not the bite you will eat next. Doing so makes the meal a heightened peaceful experience that is the antithesis of the bustling galbi house.

[divider]

→Insa-dong Area

Balwoo Gongyang  발우공양

Across the street from Jogyesa Temple near Insa-dong is the Temple Stay building. Balwoo Gongyang is the flagship restaurant on the fifth floor. The food comes out in multiple colorful courses from a menu that changes seasonally, but the highlights are the crispy fruit and vegetable chips and the lotus leaf rice. Lunches tend to be busier than dinners, so you will more likely get a free table in the evening.

FYI> T. 02-2031-2081

GO> Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Walk past Insadong-gil then take a left, Walk five minutes, and you’ll see the Temple Stay Information Center on your left. Balwoo Gongyang is on the fifth floor of the same building.

71 Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu, 5th floor

[divider]

→Insa-dong Area

Balwoo Gongyang Kong  발우공양 콩

On the second floor of the Temple Stay building is Balwoo Gongyang’s little sister Balwoo Gongyang Kong. They serve three meals a day, but it’s primarily known as a lunch space with a popular buffet. They’ve recently revamped the concept to be more like a baru ceremony in that you receive the four wooden bowls that monks use, where you fill them with rice, soup and the lovely vegetables they make. Being a frugal Buddhist restaurant, though, leftovers are discouraged. Take all you want, but eat all you take. The menu changes daily, but some highlights there are the curry and the sweet and sour fried mushrooms.

FYI> T. 02-736-2083

GO> Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Walk past Insadong-gil then take a left, Walk five minutes, and you’ll see the Temple Stay Information Center on your left. Balwoo Gongyang Kong is on the second floor.

71 Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu, 2nd floor

 [divider]

→Gyeongbok Palace Station area

Gamnodang  감로당

Tucked away on the western side of Gyeongbok Palace, Gamnodang makes for an elegant lunch spot. Grilled mushrooms and lotus roots rest on a bed of pine needles. Fried morsels of tofu dressed in a spicy sauce. Colorful miniature pancakes dance around the plate. Gamnodang brings the idyllic mountain temple hideaway to your table. Course meals run from KRW26,000 to KRW110,000. They serve lunch until three then close and open again at six for dinner.

FYI> T. 02-3210-3397

GO> Leave Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station 경복궁역 (Line 3). Walk straight and swing a right toward the Daelim Museum. The restaurant is near the museum.

35-106 Tongui-dong, Jongno-gu

→Anguk Station area

Sanchon  산촌

One of the more popular temple food restaurants in Insa-dong, Sanchon is known for its live entertainment in the evenings. Run by an eccentric ex-monk who dabbles in art, Sanchon is good for a show with dinner and souvenirs while leaving. Due to the preferences of regular Korean clients, the recipes don’t always strictly follow Buddhist rules, but they do make dishes according to the rules if asked a day ahead of time

FYI> T. 02-735-0312

GO> Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Make a left and keep walking past Ssamziegil and look for the sign that says Sanchon.

14 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu

Over the past few years, the number of cocktail bars around the city has exploded, but it can still be hard to find a truly great drink for the price. Here are three places that never disappoint.

Written by SEOUL Staff

Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

 Pier8 피어8

When Pier8 opened in 2012, it was one of the first large, upscale restaurants at the Hannam end of Itaewon High Street. With an impeccably decorated interior, excellent service and an extensive Japanese fusion menu, it is one of the nicest eateries in Itaewon. Possibly the best part about Pier8, however, is its cocktail menu. Manager Hollis Kim has been designing drinks for 12 years, and his experience shines through in all of the restaurant’s offerings. Pier8’s Japanese sake-based cocktails were specifically created by Hollis, and are unlike any other drink in Seoul. Each one contains fruit-infused vodka soaked in-house, homemade syrup and handmade garnishes. Take, for example, the Apple Shiso-jito. Though most bar menus include a mojito, it’s difficult to find a place that makes a great one, much less a unique take on the classic. Pier8’s Apple Shiso-jito beats out the competition by a long shot. Containing fresh mint, basil, apple and Japanese shiso, Kim also adds lime juice, apple juice, ginger ale, apple-infused vodka, sake and homemade citron syrup before garnishing with fresh apple. The result is a deliciously refreshing take on the mojito that puts the others to shame. The attention to detail is what makes Pier8’s cocktail menu so alluring, and there are approximately 25 more equally fantastic sake cocktails on the menu. Try one with lunch or dinner, or stop in for after-dinner drinks. As an added bonus, Hollis also designed the menus for Berlin Café and Lounge and Buddha’s Belly, both of which are also located in Itaewon.

FYI> T. 02-749-2173

GO> 216 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, 2nd floor

[divider]

Julio Hongdae 줄리오 홍대점

Julio has long been home to some of the best Mexican cuisine in Seoul, and after the success of the original restaurant, new locations opened, including one in Hongdae. Julio was one of the first places in the city to serve a great frozen margarita, and their Bulldog Margarita seemed to spark a trend that has caught on at other Mexican places across the city. The Bulldog is a giant frozen lime margarita with a Corona beer inverted in the glass. It may sound unusual, but the flavors of the beer, tequila and lime complement each other so beautifully that the Bulldog is the perfect accompaniment to any of Julio’s dishes. The Hongdae location is particularly nice because of its outdoor seating area, which is a great location for enjoying dinner, drinks and people-watching on warm spring and summer evenings.

FYI> T. 02-3141-5324

GO> 411-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu

[divider]

Vinyl 비닐

With the arrival of warm spring weather, now is the perfect time to explore the outdoor nightlife scene of Hongdae, and no trip to Hongdae Park would be complete without a stop at Vinyl. Vinyl is located just down the street from both the park and the main gate to the university, and it is one of the most unique bars in Seoul. If you’ve ever spotted someone sipping a drink out of a large, zip-lock, IV-style plastic bag in Hongdae, it’s because they’ve swung by Vinyl’s famous take-out window. There is a cozy seating area inside, but most customers prefer getting drinks to go so they can stroll around the neighborhood. Due to its proximity to the university, the drinks are all priced for students, so it is surprisingly cheap, considering the drink sizes. Plus, the cocktails all pack quite a punch.

GO> 411-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu

More-than-gift ideas for parents and teachers dear to us[/box_light]

Written by Deanne Nguyen

While these flowery gestures come with the best, albeit naive, intentions, their price and convenience mean they’re often only suited for those in your life whose significance is fleeting. For parents and teachers, however, this is just lazy. Sure, we can go all out with gifting once a winter, but their namesake holidays are our chance to indulge them exclusively. We have them to thank for, well, everything.

Mothers

The ladies of our lives need to be wooed. Flowers, candies, dinner, the works, sure, but household additions will be a darling reminder that you’re still with her postpartum. Absolutely no fake fruit, though; if we’re talking centerpiece, go with ones that come pre-vased. The bouquet should also be an odd number of blossoms (rule of flower arranging, just go with it) and include some green to balance things out. Height should also be a factor: Go tall for larger dining tables or floor fixtures, short for counters and breakfast tables and add a little home accent like a perfumed candle if you want to nail functional as well as charming. With their lower melting point, soy candles (placed in an elegant glass) are both mother-approved and mess-less. Oh, and don’t forget the spa-day certificate.

[box_info]Flower MayB, Bouquet Centerpiece [/box_info]

Price Upon Inquiry

www.flowermayb.com

[box_info]Yankee Candle, Lemon Lavender[/box_info]

KRW 45,000

candle.rcsoft.co.kr

[box_info]Annick Goutal, Petite Cherie[/box_info]

Candle, KRW 110,000

www.be-nature.co.kr

[divider]

Fathers

While often not picky, dads can be painfully pragmatic. Upgrade their usuals with elemental luxury, such as leather, metal or crystal. With customized leather products, you can select the color for free (and even the thread color if you call ahead), and engravings are an extra KRW 5,000. For the wired dads, they can always use more space. Sangsangmadang in Hongdae carries a few in geo-future casings that’ll have him blade running in no time. For the night (or day) cap lovers, amuse their inner child as they submerge a crystal Swiss mountain in their favorite liquor.

[box_info]Tanzo, Passport Holder[/box_info]

KRW 72,000

www.tanzo.co.kr

[box_info]Logical Art, 8GB USB[/box_info]

KRW 110,000

www.logical-art.co.uk

[box_info]Tale Design, Matterhorn Glass[/box_info]

KRW 49,000

www.1300k.com

[divider]

Teachers

Listen, they’ve dealt with our educational struggles, our assignment delays, our apathy and even our parents. Let’s give them what they want: the essentials for good coffee at home, a proper carting vessel and a personalized pastry. They deserve that much.

[box_info]Starbucks by Bodum, Recycled Material French Press [/box_info]

KRW 35,000

www.popo-mall.com

[box_info]Kitchen Art, Eco Tumbler 220 ml [/box_info]

KRW 19,000

emart.ssg.com

[box_info]Palette Macarons, Friends & Love Pack[/box_info]

KRW 13,000

www.palettemacaron.com

Save the Dates: 

Children’s Day 어린이날—May 5

Parent’s Day 어버이날—May 8

Teacher’s Day 스승의날—May 15

Seoul Sub-Urban writer Charlie Usher explores Seoul’s ever-changing charms

It’s easy for most city dwellers to get caught in their life’s daily rut: riding bus whatever to work; trudging from the bus stop to the office; walking to lunch and back to the subway; beelining from the station to your front door. Most people rarely deviate from the courses engraved into their schedule, often passing neighborhoods, restaurants and public gems that remain hidden under their noses for entire lifetimes. Especially in a city as massive and as dynamic as Seoul, it seems silly that people would complain that there’s nothing to do, nothing new to explore—that everything’s always the same. The common misconception is that you have to go abroad to find something new, that fresh adventures and discoveries are available only through a plane ticket and a passport.

That’s why Charlie Usher started the Seoul Sub-Urban project, a blog that profiles different neighborhoods in Seoul that anyone can access using the city’s railway transit.

Usher thinks that Seoulites have a whole world available to them, a world most choose not to access out of habit, laziness, indifference—whatever excuses we create. Coming from a small town in Wisconsin—what he terms “archetypal middle-America”—Usher thinks Seoul’s public transit system is a blessing that most users don’t fully utilize.

Second time’s a charm

Usher, like many expats, originally came to Korea as an English teacher. After graduating with a degree in English literature, he discovered a two-year program offered by his alma mater for people looking to teach in Korea. While living in Yongin, he took frequent trips into Seoul, but usually stuck to the same spots. After his contract was up, he went traveling around Asia.

“After that, though, I needed money,” Usher admits. “And I knew I could get a job in Korea that I decently liked, and I had a social network here. So I came back to Seoul.”

This time, however, he wanted to get to know the city better; he wanted to venture beyond his comfort zone. One day, as he was riding the massive underground network of Seoul’s subway, he found himself looking at the railway map, at the stations he passed every day without a second thought. He then got an idea: Why don’t I just get off at a random station and look around?

“I think most people who ride the subway think that at some point. For me, I had to have multiple moments before I finally decided to start Seoul Sub-Urban.”

More than just another blog about restaurants and shops, Seoul Sub-Urban focuses on each neighborhood’s character and what separates it from the rest of the city. Combining unique photographs with honest writing, his blog shows parts of the city that have been passed over or ignored by other bloggers or traditional press, areas of the city the government doesn’t usually promote. In November 2009, Usher and photographer Elizabeth Groeschen decided to start with a station where they’d both never gotten off before and go from there. That station was Nonhyeon.

“I expected it to be just like Gangnam, but once we got into the back alleys, it was a lot different: little street markets, old-style housing. The furniture street was also interesting.”

Eventually, Seoul Sub-Urban expanded into a regular column in SEOUL and Usher recently developed the concept into his book, “Charlie and Liz’s Seoul Subway Travelogue” (찰리와 리즈의 서울 지하철 여행기). The book was released in Korean by Seoul Selection, with an English translation on the way.

Never-ending story

“One of Seoul’s defining characteristics is its constantly changing nature,” he explains. “The reason why I could never finish this project is that even if there are neighborhoods I’ve already done, they’re always changing.”

A relief for Usher, who worried when he first started that every neighborhood would just end up being the same: high-rise apartments, franchise restaurants, corporate coffee houses—all with the same polished face.

“One of the biggest surprises was when I went to Geoyeo, and saw for the first time an actual Seoul slum. In the US, urban poverty is a lot more visible; it’s just part of the city. But here there’s a lot less of it—or at least it’s a lot less visible.”

Usher says that seeing such neighborhoods made him feel more connected to the city, and indeed it’s easy to live in Seoul for years without feeling like you actually know the place, especially if you never deviate from your usual hangouts. He recommends that any foreigner visit Sillim-dong, where the bar scene is lively even if it isn’t as refined. One of his favorite neighborhoods to simply wander aimlessly is Dongdaemun, a place he describes as a “car-crash of modern and old-school.” He thinks Gangnam isn’t really anything special, but doesn’t mind going there with friends who are visiting visiting Seoul for a few days. Itaewon and Noksapyeong offer good food, Usher says, but he prefers the fringes of Hongdae, such as Yeonnam-dong and Hapjeong.

An acquired taste

“I also really like Seoul’s more proletariat side, areas like Sindang. Korea is rough around the edges, but I think therein lies a lot of its charm. The government seems to always promote the more ‘polished’ side, but I think it should focus more on the city’s history, on its ‘rougher’ areas, because that’s what’s really going to capture people’s interest.”

To Usher, the Hallyu craze has a lot of appeal to Asian tourists, but he doesn’t think it’s going to strike a chord with most Western visitors. Instead of focusing too much on Gangnam or milking the K-pop trend, he thinks it’d be a better idea to promote areas like Gwangjang Market.

“Seoul doesn’t have that immediate charm of cities like New York or Paris or Rome. You have to work a little harder to get to its best parts.”

“Charlie and Liz’s Seoul Subway Travelogue” can be purchased at the Seoul Selection Bookshop and all major Korean bookstores. Visit www.seoulselection.com for more information.

Written by Felix Im

International residents give us the low-down on the Korean cosmetics scene [/box_light]

Written by Felix Im

 Robbie Schuldt arrived in Seoul in August of 2012 with her husband. She has since established herself as a member of the Seoul International Women’s Assocation (SIWA) and is a practicing fitness expert. Sarah Kate Watson-Baik has built herself a multifaceted career over the past eight years: She is co-host of the program “K-Style” for MNET America; she’s a fashion designer; she’s a stylist for K-pop stars. She also has her own fashion site, www.urbanwit.com, and her closet was featured in the November edition of Elle Korea. Lina Loidolt is a student from Austria who was doing research on North Korea before deciding to study in Seoul as an exchange student. She wanted to enhance her academic perspective by experiencing life on the Korean Peninsula. Sheryll Donerson spent two years in Korea as an English teacher, but is known to women across the world for her blog, www.thewanderlustproject.com, in which she chronicles her travel experiences and, more importantly, her discoveries in Korean beauty products. “I had no idea my blog would be read so internationally! I get emails from girls in the States, India, Southeast Asia, everywhere,” Sheryll explains.

It turns out that the Korean cosmetics market isn’t exclusive to Koreans anymore. ”K-beauty” is apparently more than just shallow hype. To get an idea of how Korean cosmetic products are actually viewed by non-Korean consumers, SEOUL invited the four ladies just mentioned to MAP Studio (Makeup and Photography) to meet up in Seoul’s Nonhyeon-dong, a trendy and fashionable part of town. There were also samples of new products available for them to try.

SEOUL: First off, how much time do you spend applying makeup?

A naive question put forth by the male interviewer.

Sarah: That depends on the occasion! Is it for work, is it for going out, am I in a hurry or do I have time?

Sheryll: I completely agree! Even when I’m going out, is it a party, or is it a fancy dinner? For work, is it an interview, or just a normal day?

Sarah: Totally! If I only have ten minutes, I can do it in ten minutes. Otherwise, I can take up to an hour, two hours …

Sheryll: If I have the time, I’ll put on music, take my time, watch YouTube videos of other girls applying makeup …

Sarah interrupts by exclaiming in agreement, and the other girls break into a brief moment of laughter.

SEOUL: What sort of qualities do you look for when purchasing products?

Lina: I’m a sucker for packaging. If it looks really pretty and nice, I’m often tempted to buy it. Also, since I’m already pale, I don’t like the “whitening” products. I usually look for nice colors.

Sheryll: They really shouldn’t even say “whitening,” because it doesn’t actually bleach your skin or anything. They should say “brightening,” because that’s what it really does. Honestly, though, as someone with dark skin, I can’t really buy Korean makeup. Skincare products, however, are another story.

Sarah: I like natural ingredients. Innisfree is really good for that.

Robbie: Honestly, I don’t wear much makeup. But I do focus on eyelashes and lips. Also, convenience is key.

Robbie is the biggest minimalist among the four; she isn’t afraid of going natural or even bare. Sarah, being a fashion designer and stylist, changes her makeup depending on which job she’s doing on that particular day. Sheryll is experimental—expert, even. She tries a variety of products and blogs about them in detail as a professional would. Lina is not as much of a minimalist as Robbie, but likes to keep it simple.

SEOUL: Are there any Korean brands that you would use back home?

Sheryll: Definitely! Etude House, I have a bunch of stuff from them that I use all the time; SU:M37, they specialize in naturally fermented products. I have this Too Cool for School eye shadow that I love …

Sarah: Innisfree. I’m really big on natural ingredients, and they’re really good with that. Etude House also has a lot of good stuff.

As Sarah and Sheryll list off various products from Innisfree, Etude House and SU:M37, among others, Robbie gets out a notepad to jot some down.

Lina: I like Too Cool for School’s packaging, too. And Etude House has a lot of colors that I like.

 SEOUL: What do Korean cosmetics have going for them that brands back home lack?

Sheryll: When I went back to the States, I realized how expensive everything is. Something that’s 70 dollars over there is around 10 dollars here, and the quality is pretty much the same.

 SEOUL: So, more bang for your buck here?

Sarah: Huge bang for your buck!

All the girls nod and murmur in agreement.

After a very enthusiastic discussion, the four panelists were given access to the day’s samples from Etude House, Banila Co. and SU:M37: foundations in compact “cushion” cases designed for quick application without smudging on your hands. Sarah has already filmed a segment of herself sampling one of the products, a SU:M37 liquid foundation that seeps through a ring of holes in the center of the compact, much like those on a telephone receiver, as potential footage for an upcoming “K-Star” episode (search for “K-style” in YouTube if you’re curious).

Sarah: It looks like it’s designed for summer because I can tell it’ll sort of seal itself to prevent running.

Robbie: The Etude House compacts are cute and feminine, but the colors they come in seem to have nothing to do with the actual makeup’s color.

Lina: The Banila Co. one has a nice color, but it doesn’t seem to contain much actual foundation. Maybe make it a little fuller, with less holes.

Sheryll, choosing her words carefully, offers her criticism.

Sheryll: As I mentioned earlier, as someone with dark skin, it’s difficult to find actual makeup products in Korea that are suitable for me. It’s sad, because Korean cosmetic companies have so many great products, but they don’t embrace people with darker skin. I’ve gotten emails from girls in Saudi Arabia, Thailand, India, the States, everywhere, who ask me what they can do to make their skin “whiter.” It’s sad to me, really.

SEOUL: Anything else Korean cosmetic companies can do to truly cater to an international customer base?

Sarah: English-label packaging. That’s a huge help. It’s surprising how many products still don’t have that.

Everyone in the panel agrees—vigorously. Well, it seems clear what companies need to do for global expansion. Otherwise, they seem to be on the right track.

Hip in Hannam-dong 한남동

[/box_light]

Young artists and creatives breathe life into aneglected hilltop community

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

The hilltop community that overlooks Itaewon from the south is an unusual place, a “strange neighborhood,” as one local newspaper recently described it. Imagine, if you will, a piece of 1970s Korea, to which has been added Brixton’s multiculturalism and Williamsburg’s hipsterism. It’s a heady mix, to be sure, but one that certainly seems to be working. Rest assured, you won’t find another place like it in Seoul.

From ghost town to hot spot

Thanks to favorable write-ups in the local press and by local food bloggers, the neighborhood along Usandan 10-gil Road—marked by the landmarks of Seoul Central Mosque at one end and Hangwang Presbyterian Church at the other—is a place on the rise. “More and more people are coming,” says Ha Dong-gyeong, who runs the local coffee roasting joint Champ Coffee.

The streets weren’t always so lively, however. Just a year or two ago, this neighborhood was virtually deserted. In 2003, the entire hillside community was designated a redevelopment zone, and local residents emptied out. This drove down rent, which made the neighborhood popular with foreigners and, more recently, young Korean “creatives” who, since last year, have been transforming the empty buildings into workshops, coffee houses and shops. Today it’s a place where traditional markets and old Korean barber shops coexist with Muslim bookshops and tattoo parlors.

Much of the neighborhood is still, at least on paper, a redevelopment zone, as the red flags on many of the buildings will attest. It’s safe for now, as Seoul’s current mayor has opposed community-destroying urban redevelopment projects, but the upcoming mayoral election looms large in the minds of local residents and merchants alike. One resident who has run a shop here for 15 years complains, “They turned this place into a ghost town, and what happens if the mayor changes again in June?”

Foreigners and Hipsters

Oh Se-jeong opened up her vintage shop Madame de 20th Century Salon a year ago. Like many of the neighborhood’s other younger Korean residents, she came in part because of the super-cheap rent. But the multicultural vibe was also a draw. “Foreigners and Koreans live here harmoniously,” she says. And to be sure, this may be Seoul’s most racially integrated community. “In this building we’ve got Chinese, Koreans, Arabs and white people,” says Yoo Seung-ho, who runs the coffee shop Entropy Coffee. In the courtyard of Hangwang Presbyterian Church, a group of tots—many of the faces clearly multiracial—is hard at play, running around and screaming at each other in Korean.

Not surprisingly, the multicultural element is strongest near Seoul Central Mosque, a historic Itaewon landmark that crowns the hilltop like a beautiful onion-domed castle. Muslims from the Middle East, South Asia and Africa have settled here in large numbers, opening up halal restaurants and other businesses targeting the Muslim community. The restaurants and bakeries have now attracted the attention of Korea’s foodie community, who now flock here in droves.

Meanwhile, the influx of young creatives is leading to something akin to chain migration. “Not long ago a lot of interesting people started moving here, so we opened up our shop here, too,” says Yoo of Entropy Coffee. Ha of Champ Coffee, who has lived in the neighborhood for eight years, explains, “The rent is cheap, its centrally located, and people keep bringing other people in.” Others come here by chance. “We were just walking around when we discovered this place, so we went to a real estate agent and found a place,” says Hwang Jiyeon, who was celebrating the opening of her Korean eatery Siktam.

 Aside from concern that political changes might lead to their homes and businesses getting plowed over and turned into apartments, there is also some worry that the influx of visitors and businesses might “ruin” this still beautifully rough gem. Seeing the fate of other neighborhoods, it’s easy to see why. “Didn’t a branch of [a major Korean coffee chain] open up in Gyeongnidan?” says Oh of Madame de 20th Century Salon. Locals artists and artisans are working hard to keep a good thing going, meeting regularly to discuss means to strengthen and improve the community. Geography is certainly on their side—the hilltop is a long ways away from the nearest subway stop, which isn’t particularly good if you’re a resident, but it does keep the human waves of tourists away. Ha of Champ Coffee hopes the place can keep its quiet, laid back charm. “I don’t know how it will change, but I hope it doesn’t get swamped.”

GO> Seoul Central Mosque is a 10 minute walk from Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3.

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Local Joints

Café Friend In Front of the Mosque  사원 앞 카페 벗

 T. 010-9471-6486

This fine little café is also a community hub for young artists and artisans.

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Champ Coffee 챔프커피

T. 02-792-4516

In addition to making a fine cup of coffee, this is a good place to go for roasted beans.

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Soul Ink 소울잉크

T. 010-3200-9292

Looking to get inked up? This is your place. The guy who runs it is also a graffiti artist.

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My World 내가 사는 세상

This jewelry shop specializes in handcrafted silver pieces. Next to Soul Ink.

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Entropy Coffee 엔트로피커피

T. 010-2797-4210

You’ll recognize this delightfully simple coffee shop by the brightly colored plastic cans of coffee near the roaster.

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Madame de 20th Century Salon

20세기싸롱

T. 02-6326-8734

Aside from vintage clothing, this place also sells vintage dolls, lamps and other collectibles.

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Siktam 식탐

T. 02-749-3666

Traditional Korean food in a blissfully minimalist setting.

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Salam Turkish Restaurant

쌀람터키전문음식점

T. 02- 793-4323

This institution by the mosque serves all your Turkish favorites. Be sure to check out their bakery, too.

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Siti Sarah 시띠 사라

T. 010-5817-0807

A little taste of Indonesia and Malaysia in Seoul. Not far from the mosque.

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Tip 1: Free Market

Some of the young merchants and artists in the area hold a market every last Saturday. See www.facebook.com/wosadan or blog.naver.com/youngseller (Korean) for more information. Or you could just talk to the folk at Café Friend In Front of the Mosque.

Tip 2: Alleyways

The hillside alleyways that branch off the main drag form a maze of concrete steps and narrow passageways flanked by high, dilapidated residential buildings. You won’t find many coffee houses and galleries, but boy is it a fun place to explore.

Traveling Back in Time

The Back Roads of Jejudo’s Udo Island

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 Written and photographed by Douglas Macdonald

With Jejudo Island’s iconic Seongsan Ilchulbong, or “Sunrise Peak,” serving as a backdrop in my rear-view mirror, I slide my car into a parking spot in front of the Seongsan ferry terminal and race through the heavy rain to the ticket booth inside. “Two tickets for Udo, please!” I gasp as I balance a dripping umbrella in one hand and my drenched camera bag in the other. Ticket in hand, I hop onto the small ferry at the back of the terminal with just seconds to spare.

As the ferry makes its 15-minute trek across the choppy sea, Udo, or “Cow Island,” slowly comes into view and I begin to see how it got its name. The northern end of the island is flat while the southeast features the curved, bumpy shape of the parasitic volcano cone Souimeori Oreum, giving it the appearance of a cow lying down.

Located just off the eastern shore of Jejudo Island, 3.5 km northeast of the small town of Seongsan-ri, Udo is one of Jejudo’s most popular tourist attractions, with over one million people visiting its shores every year. Famed for its brilliant, white sand beaches and crystal clear waters, most visitors to the island spend their time hiking or riding bikes along the popular Jeju Olle 1-1 coastal circuit. But on this day I set out to explore the less crowded back roads of the island, especially beautiful in the spring when the yuchae, or canola flower makes its appearance, covering the center of the island in a golden blanket of color.

As I step off the ferry at Udo port, I’m immediately struck by the absence of long lines of taxis and endless stalls selling everything from fruit to artwork, a stark contrast to most of Jejudo’s other top attractions. Udo has less of a tourist vibe to it. It’s quiet, laid back, and not entirely willing to succumb to the lure of mass tourism. I’m left alone to explore the island on my terms.

Off the beaten path

While the coastline and its beaches are indeed pretty, a detour off the main road quickly takes one towards the center of the island and an entirely different world. Narrow roads, built in a time before there were cars on the island, lead travelers along a winding route devoid of traffic lights, past fields bursting with brilliantly colored yuchae flowers. The fields and roads are separated by a patchwork of intricate, basalt rock walls known as batdam, a key feature of the island. The rocks come directly from the coast and are roughly stacked on top of each other, leaving gaps between the rocks. The gaps allow strong winds to pass through the rocks, reducing pressure on the walls and helping to protect the farmers’ fields during the typhoon season.

As one walks deeper into the countryside, more of the basalt rock can been seen on the old, Jejudo-style homes dotting the landscape. Desiring a closer look, I wade carefully into a field full of fresh yuchae, the delicate petals and stems softly brush across my body as I make my way to one particularly interesting house. Just as I arrive, the friendly, weathered face of an older local woman pokes out of the front door. Seeing my fascination with the house, she explains to me with a wave of her cane that the houses’ walls are made in a similar fashion to the walls surrounding the fields and roads. Originally, the gaps were filled with dirt and sand to keep out the wind and rain, but, in a nod to modernization, concrete is used today.

As I reach the midpoint of the island and the land begins to gently slope back down to the sea, I reach a part of the countryside where all the key elements of this timeless landscape come together in perfect harmony. Layers of rock walls crisscross the land below and yuchae flowers burst out of nearly every nook and cranny. Then, for just a moment, the on-again-off-again pattering of rain stops and shafts of sunshine break through the thick clouds above, bathing the fields before me in a soft, muted light. The blur of the glowing yuchae swaying in the wind provides a sharp contrast to the hard, jagged rocks that surround them and the dark blanket of clouds overhead, showcasing in one magical moment Udo’s breathtaking rural beauty.

Warning: Due to the warm weather, the canola flowers are blooming a bit early, so if you’d like to see them, go no later than the first week in April.

STAY> Pension Rodem(펜션로뎀): This well-known pension has clean rooms that range in price from KRW 45,000 (75,000 on weekends) for a smaller room up to KRW 130,000 (150,000 on weekends) for the larger “VIP” rooms. (T. 064-782-5501)

Log House(로그하우스): For those who are looking for more upscale accommodations, Log House offers nice rooms ranging in price from KRW 60,000 to 160,000 depending on room size and season, and features an outdoor cafe, barbecue facilities and a singing room. (T. 064-782-8212 / Mobile. 010-8662-8118)

EAT> Black sauce noodles (jajangmyeon)with seafood (KRW 6,000) at Soseom Banjeom (T. 064-782-0150). Seafood at Hoeyang Gwa Guksugun, located at the north end of Seobin Baeksa (White Sand) beach and close to Rodem Pension. Prices range from KRW 10,000 per person for abalone soup (jeonbok juk) up to about KRW 200,000 for raw fish.

Dessert: Peanut-flavored ice cream is a specialty on Udo and is available all across the island.

GO> Jeju Air, Korean Air, and Asiana fly to Jejudo several times a day.

From Jeju International Airport, take bus #38 to Daeseom (대섬입구) stop. Transfer to the bus for Dongilju (동일주) to Seongsan Harbor (성산항). Follow the signs to Seongsan Harbor (성산항) for 450 meters; take the ferry bound for Udo (KRW 5,500 for round trip).

A journey through the birthplace of the Korean Wave[/box_light]

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

“What makes Abbey Road in London, Piazza di Spagna in Rome and Central-Mid-Levels escalator in Hong Kong so special? It’s the Beatles who crossed the road, Audrey Hepburn who strode the plaza, and the Romance of Chungking Express that hit the stairway. It’s our beloved stars and their stories that make the spots shine.”

So begins the lovely blue guidebook to Gangnam’s newly unveiled K-Star Road, an urban walking course linking the largely Hallyu (Korean Wave)-related sites in the affluent district south of the Hangang River. The dream—to turn Gangnam into a cultural, shopping and culinary hotspot rivaling New York’s Soho or Marais in Paris—is still very much a work in progress as the district, made famous by Korean pop sensation Psy, adjusts to its newfound status as an international tourism destination. But as the guidebook explains, this is a land where stars shine. If star-gazing’s your thing, this is the place to be.

Getting informed

Broadly speaking, the K Star Road links the posh shops and department stores of Sinsa-dong and Apgujeong-dong in the west with the headquarters of Korea’s major entertainment companies in Cheongdam-dong to the east. You can stick to the main roads if you like, but to really soak in the charm, you’re going to have to explore the side roads and alleys.

A good place to begin your walk is Gangnam Tourist Information Center, located next to the giant Hyundai Department Store. There you can pick up a handy guidebook with a very useful map and descriptions of local sights, shops and eateries, complete with pictures of the stars who frequent them. The center also has a medical tourism consultation center, K-pop experience center and a coffee shop for pre-walk caffeination.

If you’d really like to start your day right, make an appointment with the nearby Spa the el (T. 02-549-3949, closed Sundays), a luxury beauty and skin care spa owned by TV personality Lee Min-ah and frequented by celebrities such as KBS announcer Lee Ji-ae. If you’d further like to “look the part,” so to speak, you could also make a reservation at hair salon for the stars Ra Beauty Core (T. 02-544-0714), frequented by Choi Ji-woo, Lee Dong-gun, Choi Si-won and Daniel Henney.

Real Gangnam Style

To the south of the main drag linking Apgujeong Station (Line 3) and Apgujeong Rodeo Station (Bundang Line) is a maze of side streets where you’ll find plenty of coffee houses and shops. Continue along the main road, however, and you’ll eventually come to the landmark Galleria Department Store (dept.galleria.co.kr), one of Korea’s best known monuments to conspicuous consumption. The facade of the west wing is covered with 4,330 glass discs that are lit up at night. Hidden in the attached Apgujeong Rodeo Station is the G+Star Zone, a Hallyu star-themed photo zone where you can also donate to help low-income teens. Also nearby is Everysing (T. 02-6404-9850), a noraebang/K-pop merchandise shop run by SM Entertainment, the company behind BoA, TVXQ, SHINee, Girls’ Generation and Super Junior. Next to Everysing is Cofioca, a tiny bubble tea joint popular with the stars…and their legions of fans.

Across the street from Galleria Department Store is 10 Corso Como Seoul (www.10corsocomo.com), a designer store/cultural space founded in Milan by publisher Carla Sozzani. Featuring design work by American artist Kris Ruhs, it’s a joy to visit and “slow shop,” even if you’ve no interest at all in K-pop. The video for Psy’s 2013 hit “Gentleman” was shot here.

The Heart of K-pop Country

As you move further eastward, you’ll enter the beating heart of the Korean entertainment industry. Just to let you know you’ve arrived, SM Entertainment papers its headquarters—just a short walk from the Galleria Department Store—with a huge canvas wrapping featuring larger-than-life images of its top artists.

Further east, in the side streets north of Cheongdam Intersection, you’ll find still more entertainment companies, including Cube Entertainment (BEAST, 4MINUTE, G.NA), JYP Entertainment (Wonder Girls, 2PM, miss A), FNC Entertainment (CNBLUE and F.T. Island) and BH Entertainment (founded by actor Lee Byung-hun and representing actors Ko Soo, Han Chae-young, Han Hyo-joo and Bae Soo-bin). Unless you’re applying for an audition, there isn’t actually that much to do at any of these places, save for Cube Entertainment, which operates Cube Studio, with a coffee parlor and gift shop on the first floor. Still, if you’re lucky, you might be able to spot your favorite K-pop or K-drama star at or around one of these places.

 GO> Getting There: The Gangnam Tourist Information Center is a short walk from Apgujeong Station 압구정역 (Line 3), Exit 6.