A Brisk Walk Along the East Sections of SEOUL CITY WALL | 서울성곽

Written by Robert J. Fouser
Photographed by Kim Sungjin

Seoul is not often thought of as a walking city. Traffic is heavy, sidewalks are crowded, and cars and pedestrians are forced to share more side streets. In recent years, the city has done much to improve the situation by restoring covered streams and creating a variety of walking courses. One of the most prominent efforts is the restoration of the Seoul City Wall that surrounds the historic heart of the city.

First built in 1396, the City Wall was designed to create a psychological division between the city and country. The wall was built only four years after Seoul became the capital of the new Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910). The original wall was built in a hurry and was rough in many places. In 1422, King Sejong the Great, who is famous for inventing the Korean writing system, hangeul, sponsored a massive reconstruction of the wall that involved 300,000 workers from all parts of Korea. The wall fell into disrepair after the Japanese invasions of 1592 and 1598. King Sukjong sponsored another rebuilding project in 1704.

The 20th century was hard on the wall. During the Japanese colonial period (1910–1935), the colonial rulers destroyed large parts of the wall as Seoul grew beyond its traditional borders. Rapid population growth in the 1950s and 1960s put further pressure on the wall. Recognizing the value of the wall, the first major preservation efforts began in 1976, and they have continued since then as budgets permit. In recent years, efforts have focused on rebuilding destroyed parts of the wall and developing walking courses to make the wall more accessible.

One of the best ways to explore the wall is to walk along the eastern sections, starting at Hyehwamun Gate, one of four small gates in the wall and near Exit 4 of Hanseong Univ. Station 한성대입구역 (Line 4). The entrance to the wall offers a view of the reconstructed gate. As laid out in 1396, the wall had four large, or “great,” gates and four smaller gates. The large gates sat on the four points of the compass, and the smaller gates on the intermediate points. From the entrance, keep uphill along the wall until you reach Naksan Park. The park sits on the highest part of Mt. Naksan and offers spectacular views of the city and the mountains in all directions. From here, the walk is downhill. As you walk, take note of the different shapes of the stones in the wall and the different layers. The original wall was built largely of boulders, but later sections of the wall were built with more finely cut stone blocks.

Walking downhill from Naksan Park, you will come to the back entrance of the interesting Ihwa Mural Village, a public art project centering on colorful wall murals that was one of the first such projects in Korea. Theneighborhood contains several cafés that make for a good rest in the middle of the walk.

Returning to the wall, the walk continues downhill until you reach Honginjimun, the Great East Gate (Dongdaemun). The current gate dates from 1869 and was part of a mid-19th century rebuilding boom that included much of Gyeongbokgung Palace. This section of the wall ends at Honginjimun, but recently excavated parts of the wall have been incorporated into the nearby Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. The park sits on the site of the old Dongdaemun Stadium, which was the largest sports venue in Seoul until the opening of the Olympic facilities in Jamsil in mid-1980s. Remnants of the wall and other historical relics have been preserved in the park. The park lies at the center of the Dongdaemun Market area, with its many interesting places to eat and shop.

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Subway Lines 2, 4, and 5 all stop at Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역, offering easy access to other parts of the city.

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Waffles and Coffee at Beans Bins

If you are going to climb the epic shopping mountain of Dongdaemun, then you have to get a hearty breakfast with lots of coffee. Beans Bins Coffee in the Doota shopping complex is a great first spot. They have freshly made waffles with many different toppings. Get your sugar and caffeine fix here.

Beans Bins Coffee | 빈스빈스커피

FYI>
Cost: 12,000 won
11am–5am
T. 02-3398-5313, www.beansbins.com
(Doota: 18-12 Eulji-ro 6-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul | 서울시 중구 을지로6가 18-12)

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Doota (3rd Floor): Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역 (Lines 2, 4, 5), Exit 14

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[box_dark]Lunch[/box_dark]

© Seoul Selection

Mongolian Buuz and Khuushuur at Darkhan

The Dongdaemun area is the central point for people from countries like Mongolia, Uzbekistan, and Russia. Darkhan offers authentic Mongolian fare, such as steamed meat dumplings called buuz and fried meat-stuffed pastries called khuushuur. Their lamb platter with rice and vegetables is good as well. Try their hot (sour) yogurt tea if you’re feeling brave.

Darkhan | 다르칸

FYI>
Cost: 7,000 won
11am–11pm
T. 02-2278-4633
(188-5 Gwanghui-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul | 서울시 중구 광희동1가 188-5)

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Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역 (Lines 2, 4, 5), Exit 8

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[box_dark]Dinner[/box_dark]

© Seoul Selection

Marinated Pork Trotters at Pyeongando-jip
Pyeongando-jip is famous for their marinated pig’s feet, and even in winter you’ll often see a line out the door during the dinner rush. The owner, now grandmother, Lee Gyeong-soon is a no-nonsense woman who is all about efficiency and order. You can get platters of sliced pigs feet with kimchi and leaves for wrapping as well as bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes).

Pyeongangdo-jip | 평안도집

FYI>
Cost: 15,000 won a person
Noon–11pm
T. 02-2279-9759
(62-16 Jangchung-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul | 서울시 중구 장충동1가 62-16)

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Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 3

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[box_dark]Dessert[/box_dark]

© Seoul Selection

Medovnik from Ala Do
This is a decadent crumb cake that has layers of icing and honey. It is delicious with a cup of hot tea. They have many other Uzbek delights as well, such as chocolate cakes and lamb pastries.

Ala Do | 알라 도

FYI>
Cost: 5,000 won
10am–10pm
T. 02-2277-9211
(154-1 Gwanghui-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul | 서울시 중구 광희동 1가 154-1)

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Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역 (Lines 2, 4, 5), Exit 8

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© Seoul Selection

SUNG HEE KIM | 김성희

Breaking barriers, one runway at a time

Written by Michael Hurt

Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Being a down-to-earth, great conversationalist is the the last thing one might expect of the top Korean fashion model walking down international runways for world-class brands such as Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu. Korean model Sung Hee Kim has become quite prominent in Korea since becoming the first Asian ad campaign model for Miu Miu, and she recently walked shows and did ads for Marc Jacobs in New York City.

One might assume this to be the kind of thing that would go to the head of any young 20-something making their way in the New York City and American fashion world, even if patriotic boosterism hadn’t thrust her to the very forefront of national attention back home in the Land of the Morning Calm.

The one thing to know about models in the Korean fashion world is the fact that the field is heavily populated by students and other civilians who sign with large agencies that manage and farm out their talent. There are few real freelancers signing their own contracts to model as individual free agents. One peculiarity of the Korean modeling world is the large numbers of young female models who are actually fashion model majors and graduates of universities that act as feeders for many of the large agencies. It almost makes perfect sense, given Korea’s emphasis on formal education and certification for nearly all pursuits and occupations. Going the unstructured route, the archetypal American story of being discovered on the street and then shooting one’s way to the top as a force unto oneself is so rare as to be practically socially unfeasible. Korea’s fashion industry still exists within a Confucian culture that places great importance on background in terms of concrete, traceable connections and formal preparation for performing the tasks within the realm of one’s appointed role and station.

“I never really intended to be a model,” Kim admits. She found herself, somewhat accidentally and partially with the cajoling of friends, thrust into the spotlight of the fashion reality show I Am a Model. Much to her surprise, Kim found herself entering the fashion world and signing with ESteem Models. In the end, Kim’s experience is emblematic of the modeling industry here in Korea, as she entered renowned modeling agency ESteem Models and cut her teeth doing extensive modeling work, especially in Seoul Fashion Week, where she modeled for prominent Korean designers such as KANG KIOK and Cho Sung Kyong.

© Seoul Selection

Kim is full of good humor and hearty belly laughs as she describes her experience in New York as a Korean adjusting to life in the proverbial Big Apple and muses about being asked for her autograph back in Korea by a fashion devotee while in a fast food restaurant. Even more funny to this writer is the amount of time a tall, lithe runway model spends in fast food establishments. Of particular note is the amount of time she spends talking glowingly of Mr. Pizza.

Appropriately, our interview took place in fashionable coffee shop 4M, in the heart of Seoul’s artistic and retro-trendy neighborhood of Samcheong- dong, which Kim noted is one of her favorite neighborhoods to do shopping for unique and trendy items. Also prominent was her preference for frequenting the center of what some people have described as the epicenter of “Gangnam Style,” including the fashionable neighborhoods of Garosu- gil and other areas below the Hangang River. “But I’m more of a north-of-the-river kind of girl,” Kim says, highlighting clothing markets in Bukchon and Dongdaemun and speaking highly of the Doota and Migliore department stores as places to truly do Korean fashion shopping.

Even in her own style, Kim keeps it simple and down-to-earth, as many fashion models seem to do. Her life philosophy is equally simple and direct. When asked about her advice for other Koreans wanting to go out into the world and compete in international territory or markets, her advice was simply, “Don’t think too much, and don’t allow yourself too much fear, it’ll happen!” In her case, she went to New York with the blessing and backing of her modeling agency and just “jumped right in.” Her message seems to be one of not overplanning or overthinking things, but just giving them the good, old-fashioned collegiate try. Of course the question of raw talent is an important one, and it seems that those who are most in possession of it are the first to downplay it and attribute everything to good luck or chance. In that she is so possessed of that special “it” factor that the true levels of her raw skill and talent may not be readily apparent to even her, Korean model Sung Hee Kim stands a very good chance of continuing to break through barriers of firsts and foremosts to enjoy remarkable success as one of the world’s top runway and fashion models. One who just happens to be Korean.

FYI> http://www.esteemmodels.co.kr/581