[box_dark]Panmunjeom | 판문점[/box_dark]

The “truce village” of Panmunjeom is one of Korea’s most iconic images. The village itself was abandoned after the Korean War; what most visitors see is the nearby Joint Security Area (JSA), where the UN Command and North Korea have held discussions ever since the Armistice Agreement that “ended” the Korean War was signed here six decades ago. One of the last remnants of the Cold War, it is the only place along the DMZ where South and North Korea come directly face-to-face.

Because of its unique place in world history and the unparalleled opportunity it provides to experience inter-Korean tensions and the tragedy of national division firsthand, the JSA is visited by thousands of tourists a year. Since it is, after all, a military facility at the very edge of one of the world’s most militarized frontiers, visits are by guided tour only. The Military Demarcation Line (MDL)—the very border between South and North Korea—passes through the middle of the complex. In one of the light-blue conference halls, you can actually cross the line into North Korea, but only within the confines of the hall. South Korean military police stand guard throughout the complex while North Korean soldiers look on from a distance.

Some of the highlights of the JSA include South Korea’s Freedom House and North Korea’s Panmungak, Checkpoint 3, the Bridge of No Return, and Third Tunnel of Aggression.

EAT>
Most tours include lunch.

SEE>
At Camp Bonifas you’ll pass by the “world’s most dangerous golf course,” a short par 3 with mine fields in the roughs.

DO>
More like a don’t—DON’T talk to, motion towards, or otherwise interact with the North Koreans. And whatever you do, DON’T cross the MDL (except inside the one conference hall). Tours usually have a dress requirement, too.

FYI>
T. 02-795-3028, http://affiliates.uso.org/korea
(Eoryeong-ri, Jinseo-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do | 경기 파주시 진서면 어룡리)

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The USO conducts tours of Panmunjeom three to four times a week. Tours cost US$80 for non-US military personnel. Korean nationals are not usually permitted to join these tours.

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Neon Lights at the DMZ?

Writen by Brenda Paik Sunoo
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

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Artist Lee Eun-sook highlights tragedy of separated families

To mark the 60th anniversary since the armistice of the Korean War, globally-acclaimed installation artist Lee Eun-sook has dedicated her latest work along the wired fence located in the border village of Imjingak, north of Seoul. Lee experiments with her materials and light as a sculptural element. The tragic war theme is reflected in her use of old photographic images from the 1950–53 fratricidal war in the Korean Peninsula with iconic florescent threads and translucent polyester film panels. In particular, she highlights the millions of families who were forced to separate in the two Koreas as a result of the civil war.
To mark the opening of the exhibit, there will be a special sparkler event on Saturday starting at 6:30pm. To make things easier for those without cars, a free shuttle bus to the venue will depart from Gyeongbokgung Palace’s parking lot at 4:30pm Saturday.

VENUE: Imjingak Village
PERIOD: Feb 23–Mar 10
MORE INFO: www.eunsooklee.com
GETTING THERE: Various bus lines available from Paju City Hall

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© Seoul Selection

Upon first glance, one would not suspect that Lee Eunsook once dreamt of becoming a housewife. Often donning hats with flowers springing from her head or orange neon tights concealing her legs, the Korea- and Germany-based fiber and installation artist is used to arousing public attention.

“It’s very strange to make small things,” she says. “I want my work to be big.”

Her latest installation, entitled From Vanished Berlin Wall to DMZ, will run from February 23 to March 10, 2013 in Paju, South Korea. Having received permission from the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Lee will create at least 100 meters of transparent polyester letters laminated with neon threads and fibers that are lit up with ultraviolent black light. “My message is peaceful reunification with light.”The project, she says, will include the names and stories of families separated at the Civilian Control Line. “Next year marks the 60^th anniversary of the end of the Korean War, and we’re still divided.”

This is not the first time Lee has engaged the themes of family, separation, life, and death. Both of her parents were refugees during the Korean War and met at Geoje-do Island before they moved to Busan, where Lee was born. As an adult, she learned that her father had actually left behind four children in the north. “My father died two years ago without seeing them. So I will include his [North Korean] children’s four names as part of my installation.”

Sadly, her father never encouraged her art. A successful businessman, he had hoped Lee and her four South Korean siblings would pursue more lucrative professions. When she entered Ewha University for her Bachelor of Fine Arts and Hongik University for her Master of Fine Arts, she pursued fiber arts because of her initial interest in embroidery. What she could not have predicted was how one catastrophic event would transform the direction of her life and her art.

While preparing for her first art exhibit in 1986, Lee sustained 40% burns on her face and right arm after hot paraffin exploded in her kitchen. This was the darkest period of her life, as she underwent eight plastic surgery operations in three years. Lying in bed, she would ponder life, death, family, and art. “My two sons can live without me. But who will take care of my work? I thought a lot about death after that.”

But after a long, tortuous period of rehabilitation, she began to contemplate new forms of expression. “If I don’t produce art, my pain will have been meaningless.” One day while at a shopping center, she was attracted to bright fluorescent threads. Lee became fascinated by the yellowish green and orange fibers, especially after seeing them glow under black light. “I spent days and nights without sleep to create new work,” she said.

Thus began her ongoing affinity with transparent polyester material laminated with neon threads and fibers that is then woven into three-dimensional shapes using basic basket techniques. “It’s amazing how a few or hundred strands of threads can radiate different colors and effects.”

Many Koreans and art critics, she says, did not praise her work back in the 90s. The neon colors were viewed as childish; the polyester material was considered cheap. And the black lights reminded people of the discotheque craze that marked the late 70s. Nevertheless, Lee refused to extinguish the fire burning within her.

© Lee Eunsook

Serendipity intervened. Lee’s luck changed after a German curator viewed her work in Korea and invited her to exhibit in Berlin in 2005. For the exhibition, she created objects symbolizing a house and furniture at the Potsdamer Platz—the site where the Berlin Wall once existed. “The house stood for a place where South and North Korea—also divided—could join and live together.”

A year later, undaunted by having been refused a permit to exhibit at the Cecilienhof Palace—site of the 1945 Potsdam Conference that divided Korea at the 38th parallel—Lee staged a public installation on the lake in front of the Palace. New Potsdam Conference displayed her neon artwork on two half globes, symbolizing South and North Korea. “It was like a floating museum. I stayed on the raft for two weeks,” she said. People either swam or took boats to meet her and view the art.

In 2007, she staged what many predicted would be impossible. Without any social network or German language proficiency, Lee created Vanished Berlin Wall (22m × 3.5m × 0.3m). The black light installation incorporated the names of 5,000 Korean separated family members. It was installed in front of the Brandenburg Gate, a symbol of German reunification, and consisted of numerous transparent parts that lit up the once formidable area that divided the country. On November 9, 2007, Lee cut her way through the installation as a performance artist to dramatize her vision for reunification. Her latest installation at the DMZ is a continuation of this theme, but with a current political twist.

© Seoul Selection

Upon completion of the DMZ project, Lee will set her sights on even bigger dreams. She envisions an installation that will be housed in a castle anywhere in the world, completely furnished with objects designed and made with her own hands. Impossible? Not to this rising phoenix.

FYI>

www.eungsooklee.com

Korea’s lake country gets even better in winter

Written by Steve Miller
Photographed by Robert Koehler and the Sancheoneo Ice Festival

Tip: Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival

Selected by CNN and the Lonely Planet as one of Asia’s top winter festivals, the Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (Jan 5–27) is the time to visit this wild piece of Korea. This fun event, a celebration of the region’s famous mountain trout (Korean: sancheoneo), features ice fishing (including bare-handed ice fishing!), ice sculptures, good food and plenty of cultural events.

© Seoul Selection

Paroho Lake, a scenic and historic reservoir created by Hwacheon Dam

Seoul is a sprawling megacity encompassing a staggering 605.21㎢. The seemingly endless asphalt roads and skyscrapers reaching for the sky allow for some ten million-plus permanent residents (and another ten million in the surrounding areas). When in Korea’s nexus, it’s not impossible to find great restaurants or beauty, but what is nearly impossible is finding wide-open spaces. For this, nature lovers must trek to the countryside. A number of rural towns are worthy of such excursions, but rarely do many get a tourism boost along the likes of Hwacheon (화천) in Gangwon-do Province.

Hwacheon

Situated close to Korea’s Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Hwacheon boasts a relatively small population of just over twenty thousand souls. In fact, being so close to the border, the town has a significant military presence that can’t be ignored. Most of the year, the military outnumber civilians, except in January when over one million people descend on the small hamlet for the annual Sancheoneo (Mount Trout) Ice Festival (Jan 5–27, www.narafestival.com).

Unlike the populated metropolis to the east, Hwacheon is still very much a slow, rural town. Peering at a local tourist map gives the illusion that the town is much larger than it really is, for one can easily walk from one side to another in under an hour. During winter, crisscrossing the narrow, icy roads elicits memories of walking through American towns of the same size, a most welcomed change from the hurried life in Seoul.

Carving through the earth’s crust, a winding waterway creates some great spots for fishing year round, although the city is most known for the wintery version of this pastime when ice creeps over its surface. Since Hwacheon isn’t burdened with buildings reaching for thesky, those visiting enjoy uninterrupted views of Gangwon-do’s blue skies, peppered with puffy white clouds. When views are periodically obstructed, it’s by the hilltops rising up from the earth. Photography enthusiasts benefit from this, as there is no shortage of interesting angles and subjects to capture.

Get Your Grub On

One can’t travel on an empty stomach, and let’s face it, if you’re making the trip away from Seoul, by the time you make it into town—you’re going to want something to eat. Like most of Korea, there are several major franchises staking claims on street corners, luring you in with specials of the month. However, as anyone can tell you, the charm of small towns is in the family-owned restaurants—the ones that exist in only one location and offer truly unique experiences.

Photo by Steve Miller

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Hwacheon, with its proximity to water, is famous for its fresh seafood, but the culinary talents don’t end there. Among the city’s specialties are Ode and Togomi Rice—special pesticide-free grains that are wind dried and stored in low temperatures. The area also has many tomatoes, so it’s no wonder that residents combine this fruit with the region’s famous potatoes to make some savory rice cakes. But for the carnivorous traveler, sampling Hwacheon’s Jasira Pork might just be the winning ticket. According to locals, the swine meat is low in cholesterol thanks to its unique diet, which includes powdered pinecones.

Adjacent to the intercity bus terminal is Gangmi Restaurant 강미식당 (T. 033-442-5252), a family-owned restaurant known for its delicious and healthy-sized portions. If arriving around lunchtime, be sure to get there early, for it is not uncommon to find every table filled shortly after the noon hour. The samgyeopsal (pork) arrived on a plate accompanied by a host of side dishes sure to satisfy any appetite. Slabs of samgyeopsal were served fresh and thick. Eyeballing each strip of pork, I estimated each was easily more than two centimeters thick, and when placed on the grill, they created a delightful sizzling sound. While I cannot attest to any unique flavor induced from powdered pinecones, I can confirm the meat was tasty and hit the spot.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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One might think the best thing to do in such a small mountain town would be to sit and watch the grass grow. Nothing could be further from the truth. The city operates weekend tours to several popular destinations, including some inside the DMZ. Tours are limited to twenty people and reservations must be made and paid for ten days in advance (to gain DMZ access). Stops on this daylong tour include the Hwacheon Folklore Museum, the Peace Dam, local nature sites, and museums. The tour costs 15,000 won (13 years and over) and 10,000 won (12 years and under). For more information, reservations, and payment instructions visit http://ihc.go.kr/tour (T. 033-440-2852).

Since the aforementioned tours are fairly limited in size, most traveling to Hwacheon will be setting out on their own. Bus service is available but isn’t nearly as robust as Seoul’s transportation, so getting around to local attractions may mean venturing out in the cold winter air or, better yet, by taxi. If making the trip in summer, ample biking and walking paths circumnavigate the city, leading to a most decidedly awesome outdoor experience.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

SEE> 

Some of the more interesting things to see in and around town are Watermill Park and the Mount Ddansan Waterfall. Just a five-minute walk from the bus terminal, the watermill is the nation’s largest, measuring a staggering 15m in diameter. The park isn’t bustling with activity on most winter days, but inventive visitors make use of the gentle slopes surrounding the park’s central pedestal by sliding down and frolicking in the snow.

Much more scenic is the waterfall, which in winter is completely frozen. Taking a cab there is probably one’s best bet, but local bus 7 makes the trip there as well. Aside from snapping a few pictures of the frozen waterfall, there’s not much to do here in winter, and the nearby resort/amusement park is mainly frequented in the summer. Those venturing this way would be better served taking a cab, since the Hwacheon Dam is nearby. This historic structure was built by the Japanese
in 1944 and played a significant and bloody role in the Korean War. A beautiful pavilion overlooks the reservoir, providing an exceptional backdrop for stunning photographs.

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

STAY>

There are about 20 or so motels and yeogwans (Korean-style inns) in Hwacheon. Most are pleasant enough and offer rooms at around 35,000–50,000 won a night, depending on the time of year and their size. If you are looking for something a bit more luxurious, you might want to look in Chuncheon, where there is a much wider range of accommodation.

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If traveling to Hwacheon, a stop at the bus terminal is a must, not only because most arriving in town do so at this location, but also because a local Tourism Information office is housed there. Any questions about tours, restaurants, accommodations, and traveling to locations are easily asked and answered, making the trip easy and worthwhile. www.ihc.go.kr/foreign/eng

© Sancheoneo Ice Festival

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Direct rail service isn’t available to Hwacheon. The only way to arrive in this mountain town by public transport is by bus. Direct intercity buses leave from Seoul’s Dong Seoul and Sang Bong terminals. Each has buses leaving throughout the day. The trip from Dong Seoul takes 2 hours 40 minutes and will set your bank account back 12,900 won. Those wanting a more scenic trip have the option of taking the new ITX from Yongsan Station to Chuncheon (departing every hour, on the hour). The trip takes just over an hour. Once in Chuncheon, cross the street outside Exit 1, veer left towards the bus stop, and wait for the intercity bus bound for Hwacheon. There are thirty a day, about two per hour. For extra help in making the transfer, a Tourist Information booth is located just outside the station. The ride from Chuncheon to Hwacheon is about an hour, putting one’s total travel time at just under two hours, provided all connections are made. It’s a faster and cheaper alternative, especially if getting into central Seoul is easier than making it to either Dong Seoul or Sang Bong Terminals.

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