Spectacular summer sunset over Yeouido Hangang Park Cascade. Photo by Robert Koehler.

Spring by the Hangang River | 한강

A day following the lazy river at the heart of a workaholic city

Written by Ben Jackson
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

After spending its youth trickling and splashing through the mountains of Gangwon-do, the Hangang River enters Seoul as a fat, sedate, and middle-aged waterway, its lack of pace furthered by a variety of man-made interventions. Series of parks on each bank guide the Hangang through the city, punctuated by bridges, resorts, and marinas and linked by a network of walking and bicycle paths.

When the warm spring weather sets in, Seoulites hit the riverbanks with characteristic vigor, charging along the bike paths (you’ll even see the occasional chalk outline), power-walking off calories, skating, walking dogs, flying kites, eating, drinking and sleeping. Spending a day following the Hangang as it flows from east to west is a great way to discover Seoul from another angle while getting some hard-earned fresh air and exercise.

©Sungjin Kim

Located on the north bank of the river, this spot is easily reached from Exits 2 and 3 of Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7), making it a good place to start a day’s journey. There’s plenty to do here, including hiring “duck boats” for a 40-minute jaunt on the river (KRW 15,000/23,000 for pedal-powered/automatic), waterskiing and windsurfing (call T. 02-1330 for information), or relaxing on the embankments with snacks from one of the nearby convenience stores. Also worth a look is the Jabeolle (J-Bug) cultural complex, a raised, tubular structure whose innards are comprised of a gallery, cafés, a restaurant, and a gift shop; it offers a great view across the river.

A couple of kilometers west along the riverbank lies Seoul Forest, one of the capital’s major green areas. Designed with the aim of creating a local equivalent of New York’s Central Park, Seoul Forest is a combination of trees, lawns, gardens, greenhouses, a butterfly house, lakes, and more. It even has a deer garden, with deer feeding opportunities on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons at 2pm and 3:30pm (reserve by calling T. 02-460-2987; Korean). There are cafés and convenience stores in the forest itself and a collection of restaurants and cafés on the lower floors of the two giant green apartment blocks nearby.

Another five kilometers west stands Seoul’s only “double deck” bridge: while Banpo Bridge carries most traffic above the river, like the Hangang’s other bridges, the Jamsu Bridge—directly beneath it—lies barely a few meters above the water level, making it an ideal point to cross the river from north to south along dedicated bicycle lanes (though crossing the river at other bridges is possible, too, thanks to various staircases, ramps, and elevators). On the way here, shortly after Seoul Forest and the mouth of Jungnangcheon Stream, is Mt. Eungbongsan, a favorite spot for photographers in search of the perfect shot of the cityscape.

Yeouido Floating Stage

From the southern terminus of Jamsu Bridge, it’s a 6.5-kilometer journey west to the island of Yeouido. The journey takes in Banpo Hangang Park, as well as a possible short diversion to Seoul National Cemetery, a large complex containing the resting places of some of the country’s greatest heroes and most controversial figures.

Yeouido itself is full of things to see. Surrounded by bike trails, it is lined by Yeouido Hangang Park on the northern bank and Yeouido Saetgang Ecological Park to the southeast, a lush complex of wetlands, trees, and undergrowth crisscrossed with walking and bicycle paths as well as raised walkways and a very distinctive pedestrian bridge. Beyond Wonhyo Bridge are a couple of floating cruise terminals with a buffet restaurant, café, and fast food joint.

Further west, another large park crosses Yeouido at its center, and at its southern side stands IFC Mall, one of the newest additions to Seoul’s rapidly growing mall collection. Drop in here for food or a coffee, or even to watch a film at the CGV multiplex cinema on Level 3. The western tip of Yeouido is home to Korea’s National Assembly building and Yeouiseo-ro, a curved street lined with cherry trees. It’s also the location of Seoul Marina, which offers cruise yacht rides from KRW 15,000 per person, per hour. (Seoul Marina stated that this price may be amended in late April. Reservations must be made online at www.seoul-marina.com [Korean] at least three days in advance. Seats may be obtained, if still available, by those turning up on the day of without a reservation: departures are at 3pm, 5pm, 6:30pm, and 8pm on weekdays, with an extra 1pm sailing on weekends.)

By the northeastern bank floats Paradise, a restaurant serving fairly pricey Western-style dishes, alcoholic beverages, tea, and coffee. Paradise also has a collection of duck-shaped paddle boats, rowing boats, and motorboats for messing about on the water.

FYI>
T. 02-447-3333
www.hankangwedding.co.kr (Korean)
(86 Yeouido dong, Yeongdeungpo Gu, Seoulㅣ서울시 영등포구 여의도동 86)

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Rainbow Bridge, Seonyudo Park

A short distance west of Yeouido is Seonyudo Park, an attractive complex set on the island of the same name. Seonyudo Park is famous for its innovative design, which makes extensive use of the giant concrete tanks, walkways, baths, and other structures remaining from the water treatment facility previously located there. The park comes to life from late spring onward and makes an impression on most visitors.

Yanghwa Bridge offers a good way to cross the river again, back to its northern bank. From here, the journey continues west to the enormous World Cup Park complex. If you’re hungry again, the World Cup stadium itself is home to several eateries. If not, make your way around the network of walking and cycling trails around the complex. Haneul Park is a high hill that offers great views across the western part of the capital and of the setting sun. Crowned with fields of reeds dotted with sculpture-like structures, it makes for an atmospheric end to the day. Nanji Hangang Park contains a variety of sports fields and a camping ground, which can be used for daytime picnics and barbecues (KRW 3,750) or camping at night in a variety of tents (reservation needed; call T. 02-304-0061; Korean). Noeul Park is a wide, grassy area that also boasts a golf course, while Nanjicheon Park features as its centerpiece a successfully restored stream, once heavily polluted but now a haven for local wildlife.

Seonyudo Park©Robert Koehler

Other options

The route above, from Ttukseom Resort to Nanji Hangang Park, is around 25 km long. If you’ve blasted your way through it in a couple of hours and are not even ready for lunch, there are various other options available. Heading back along the southern bank and continuing from Yeouido all the way to Amsa-dong, near the 1988 Olympics complex, is one 25-kilometer possibility; others include following bike paths up the various streams that flow into the Hangang: Jungnangcheon (near Seoul Forest) and Hongjecheon (just east of Nanji Hangang Park) Streams on the northern bank and Anyangcheon (3 km west of the southern terminus of Yanghwa Bridge) and Tancheon/Yangjaecheon (slightly east of Ttukseom Resort; cross the river via Yeongdong Bridge) Streams on the southern bank.

The Korea Tourism Organization recommends several other routes: go to http://english.visitkorea.or.kr and search under “Recommended Bicycle Trails in Seoul.”

Seoul Metropolitan Government’s cycling page (http://bike.seoul.go.kr) is in Korean, but has a useful map: click on 자전거지도 on the red navigation menu and you’ll be shown the cycle trails around the city (red lines are dedicated cycle routes, green are shared with pedestrians).

More information

The route described above covers a fair distance in central Seoul, but for more information on any of the places it passes through, see the Korea Tourism Organization website (http://english.visitkorea.or.kr) or call the Korea Travel Hotline at T. 02-1330.

Bicycles can be hired from 12 locations along the northern and southern banks of the Hangang, including Ttukseom Resort, the southern terminus of Banpo/Jamsu Bridge, two locations on Yeouido, and Nanji Hangang Riverside Park. Recent reports indicate that managers are reluctant to let bikes rented at one location be dropped off at another on weekends: this may change if Seoul authorities decide to intervene. Rentals cost KRW 3,000 per hour. Check the brakes, chain, and other basic parts of the bike before you set off!

The banks of the Hangang are highly exposed to the sun: protection is recommended.

The annual Yeouido Spring Flower Festival is set to return Apr 12–18 when 1,700 cherry trees erupt into magnificent clouds of pink. The spring’s spectacular show gets underway along the 1.7-kilometer-long street behind the National Assembly building. At night, the cherry blossoms are lit up with various colored lights. A wide range of street performances such as mime and modern dance, as well as art exhibitions, also take place.

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Street vendors will be on hand selling snack foods and beverages, and Noryangjin Fish Market is just around the corner.

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The festival site will be flooded not only with visitors but street peddlers as well.

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There are also acrobats, inline skaters, traditional Korean percussion music, and fireworks along Hangang River to round off the event.

FYI>
www.ydp.go.kr
(Yeouiseo-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul | 서울시 영등포구 여의서로)

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National Assembly Station 국회의사당역 (Line 9), Exit 1

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THIS FINANCIAL DISTRICT MIXES BUSINESS WITH A LITTLE PLEASURE

Written and photographed by James Kim

When discussing attractions, shopping, things to do, or places to hang out, Yeouido tends to be at the bottom of the list, if on the list at all. This is due to the fact that Yeouido serves as the main business and financial district of Seoul. The draw to Yeouido tends to be seasonal, with people flocking here in the spring to see the cherry blossoms or in the summer to stroll or bike through Yeouido Park. For the most part, however, the island has a reputation of being a bit of a ghost town after work hours and on the weekends. Things are starting to change, though, and with the 63 Building and the new addition of the trendy IFC Mall, Yeouido is a great destination in Seoul this winter season.

63 BUILDING (63 CITY) | 63빌딩 (63시티)

One of the most well-recognized landmarks along the Hangang River is the 63 Building in Yeouido. When it was built at the height of Korea’s economic boom in 1985, it stood as the tallest building in the world outside of North America, reaching over 240 m high. From the ground level, it is actually 60 stories high, with three floors underground.
There is more to the 63 Building than the fancy golden reflective glass panels that span the outer surface of the building. It is quite a sight to see, especially during the day when the sun brings out its golden glow, but the 63 Building has reasons to shine from the inside as well. Inside, three attractions are offered: 63 Sea World, 63 IMAX theater, and 63 Wax Museum, all located in the basement levels. Visitors have the option of choosing one of the attractions or purchasing a Big Three ticket (33,000 won) to see them all. If you have the whole afternoon free, these attractions are the perfect way to spend it.
A great option for young visitors, or just animal lovers in general, is 63 Sea World. It was Korea’s first aquarium and holds over 20,000 marine creatures such as tropical fish, stingrays, eels, tortoises, and penguins. Visitors to 63 Sea World can watch sea lion shows as well. The tanks are impressive, and there is even a section where you can see the marine life through the glass fl oor as you walk along.
The IMAX theater in the 63 Building is another great attraction. The showings run every 50 minutes, and they play documentaries that are meant for the IMAX experience. This winter season, the 63 IMAX is showing a visually stunning film on the Grand Canyon. For those who have not had a chance to take part in an IMAX experience, the 63 IMAX will not disappoint.
Rounding out the Big Three is the Wax Museum. Here you will be able to find wax replicas of many famous figures, as well as famous Korean celebrities that many international visitors might recognize. For a unique souvenir, try out the Wax-Your-Hand Experience, which allows you to make a wax replica of your hand that you can paint and take home with you.

Of course, while the basement level has a lot to offer, a trip to the 63 Building would not be complete without going up to the top, where one can find 63 SkyArt. After taking the glass elevator up to the 60th floor, visitors are taken through a beautiful art gallery that is host to both domestic and international pieces. The star of 63 SkyArt, however, is the view of Seoul, which can be seen from all sides. Because of its prime location in Yeouido, visitors have arguably the best view of both the Hangang River and Namsan Tower. SkyArt has a café and a souvenir shop as well. If you only have time to do one thing at the 63 Building, it would have to be a visit to the top.
Taking advantage of the spectacular views that the 63 Building offers are restaurants located on the 57th, 58th, and 59th floors. There are Korean and international restaurants to cater to everyone, whether you are there with family, friends, or a special someone.

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Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4 or Saetgang Station 샛강역 (Line 9), Exit 3.[/box_light]

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IFC MALL | IFC몰

The newest mall addition in Seoul is the IFC Mall, labeled as the first international- style mall in Korea. There are no department stores here, as one might be accustomed to in Korea. The whole mall is underground and can be accessed from street level or underground via Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Lines 5, 9).

From the outside, all that can be seen is the glass pavilion that provides natural lighting throughout the majority of the mall, particularly its two main atriums. Although the mall is completely indoors, it gives off a bit of an open-air feel as you browse around.

The mall is made up of three floors. The lowest level is mainly dining, and shoppers can find an impressive food court as well as establishments such as On The Border, Tomatillo, The Steak House, and M-Pub. This level is also home to a CGV,where visitors can take a break from shopping to enjoy the latest flicks.

The retail offerings at the IFC Mall are first class. While there aren’t any high- end stores, popular international brands like Zara, Gap, H&M, Lacoste, and Mango can be found here. Two stores that really stand out are Hollister and Banana Republic—the IFC Mall serves as home to both of their flagship stores. The Hollister store is the fi rst in Korea, and if you are familiar with the store, it is set up exactly as it is in the United States. Banana Republic is another brand with a loyal following, and many expats will be glad to have access to it here in Seoul.

IFC MALL | IFC몰
FYI>
Hours: 10m–10pm
T. 02-6137-5000
www.ifcmallseoul.com
(23 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul | 서울시 영등포구 여의도동 23)

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Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Exit 1 or Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Lines 5, 9), Exits 3 or 4.

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While Yeouido is still known as a district of business and finance, the 63 Building and the IFC Mall give us good reasons to onsider the island a new evening or weekend destination this winter.

WHERE TO EAT:
63 Buffet Pavilion: One of the largest buffets in Korea, with over 200 international dishes.
Restaurants on the 57–59th fl oors: With this view, you can’t go wrong.
IFC Food Court: Wide variety of choices, from gourmet burgers to Vietnamese cuisine.

WHERE TO DRINK:
M-Pub, IFC Mall: Great selection of local and international beer, on tap and bottled.
Try to catch some live music gigs.
Walking on the Cloud Bar: Enjoy a glass of wine while taking in Seoul’s nighttime skyline.