Spend your summer vacation without leaving the city limits

Written by Felix Im
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

[box_light]Banyan Tree Club and Spa | 반얀트리 클럽 앤 스파 서울[/box_light]

The Banyan (T. 02-2250-8000) is situated along Mt. Namsan, near Myeong-dong, Itaewon, and Dongguk University. Offering new meaning to the word “relaxation,” it is divided into four sections: the club, the hotel, the festa, and the outdoor facilities. The hotel is equipped with a Moon Bar on the top floor, a dining room with a terrace on the third floor, and a crystal ballroom in the lobby. The club offers a spa, fitness facilities (including an indoor and an outdoor gym), an indoor swimming pool, and even a juice bar. Kids are often seen running around with towels wrapped around their wet heads, making it a perfect place for a family getaway, right in the heart of Seoul. The festa is exactly what it sounds like—fun. It provides golfing facilities, karaoke rooms, a bar, a bistro, and a garden terrace. The Oasis, an outdoor pool with a poolside bar, is the main attraction here. The Oasis is used for several private parties throughout the year and adds a sense of playful decadence to the calming atmosphere. In the winter, the pool is replaced by an ice rink. The outdoor facilities are for the athletes. It has a course for golf, courts for tennis and basketball, and a field for soccer or football. The facilities are conveniently located neart the Oasis—a hard day’s exercise can end in a hard day’s play.

FYI>
T. 02-2250-8000
www.banyantreeclub.net
(서울시 중구 장충동2가 산5-5 | San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul)

Go>
Take Bus #2 from Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Line 3, 4), Exit 2.

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[box_light]For a truly Korean night on the town[/box_light]

If you’re looking for something different from the typical hotel—something truly Korean—then a couple
of nights at a hanok guesthouse should provide the ideal experience. There are no beds here, only mats that can be rolled out onto the floor. The doors are wooden-framed and slide open. There are no shoes allowed inside any of the rooms. Mostly located among the various nooks of Bukchon Hanok Village, these houses offer the perfect taste of traditional Korean life, so be prepared to use a communal kitchen and lounge—maybe even share a bathroom. You can usually choose between different-sized rooms to accommodate your party. Singles usually start from KRW 40,000, with doubles going anywhere from KRW 70,000 to over KRW 100,000. Simply and modestly named, Bukchon Guesthouse 북촌게스트하우스 (T. 010-6711-6717) is a small and humble square of rooms centered around a cozy central garden. Tea Guesthouse 티게스트하우스 (T. 02-3675-9877) is just across the street and offers a relatively similar structure, with a magnificent garden of beautiful flowers. Not to mention the tea is great! Sophia Guesthouse 소피아게스트하우스 (T. 02-720-7220) is closer to Samcheong-dong, with a nice tree on the grounds. If you’re looking for a slightly more lavish experience, try Rak-Ko-Jae 락고재 (T. 02-342-3410). It feels more like a miniature palace than a guesthouse, but you pay for it, with rooms starting at KRW 250,000.

[box_light]Baeksasil Valley | 백사실계곡[/box_light]

Tired of the hustle and bustle of the city? Tucked neatly away in Buam-dong, Baeksasil Valley is a scenic part of the city that feels like the countryside. With a name that literally means “valley of mountains surrounded by streams,” how could it fail to relax your tired city-slicker bones? The area was the perfect getaway for nobles during the Joseon Dynasty; they built gardens and second homes here. However, the trip there is not without its own special cost. The hills you’re required to conquer in order to achieve the peace of its valleys are certainly no picnic. But don’t be discouraged! The excruciating walk is not without its charming little rewards. The neighborhood you’ll pass through is quiet and quaint, a seemingly secret little neighborhood hidden away from the rest of the city. If you have any trouble finding the entrance to the valley, just ask any of the friendly locals and they’ll gladly point you in the right direction, which is usually “up.” Once you reach the entrance, you’ll find yourself faced with a wooden staircase that gently leads your tired muscles into a serene hike through an ancient Joseon garden. Aside from the mountain scenery, the area also offers a temple and a fantastic view of the city.

Go>
Take a bus from Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station 경복궁역 (Line 3) and take a bus (7212, 1020, 7022) to Buam-dong Residents Center.

[box_light]A new way to experience the Hangang River[/box_light]

The Hangang River and its many riverfront views of Seoul have always been popular with locals and tourists alike. With the opening of the new Seoul Marina in Yeouido this past April, visitors are now offered the opportunity to explore the Hangang River and its many views by boat—and a sailboat, at that. Customers are offered the choice between a “dingy,” which only accommodates a single rider, a “cruiser,” which fits up to eight people, a “business boat,” for up to 28 people, or a “power boat,” a 12-person vessel. The most popular choice is the “cruiser,” as it’s suitable for small families and couples. Depending on which type of boat you choose, a ride in one of their “yachts” can be as low as KRW 15,000 or as high as KRW 600,000 for the power boat. Fees are usually charged by the hour, with rental equipment charged separately. Trips are usually an hour long and leave at scheduled times throughout the day. After your sightseeing trip along Seoul’s shores, you can return to the marina for a bite or a drink at Café Breeze, conveniently located right near the dock.

FYI>
T. 02-3780-8400, www.seoul-marina.com
(서울시 영등포구 여의도동 81 | 81 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul)

Go>
Take Bus #206 from National Assembly Station 국회의사당역 (Line 9), Exit 1.

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[box_light]Challenge your mind and muscles with a hike and a history lesson[/box_light]

In ancient times, Seoul was surrounded by a fortress wall designed to protect the city from invaders. The wall has mostly been torn down, but some of it still remains, and other portions are being rebuilt. Not only can you go see these remains, but you can also hike alongside these walls and even on top of them! The entire course is very long (about 18 km), and is divided into eight courses: Bukchon Hanok, Jeongdong, Samcheongdong, Cheonggyecheon, Daehangno, Bugaksan, Namdaemun, and Namsan Park. With the exception of one, you can easily walk these trails for a nice leisurely stroll, sighting many couples along the way. Mt. Bugaksan is the exception—you’ll need shoes and clothes fit for a good sweat. Most people start from Waryong Park; from there, heed the signs, following the ancient wall until you reach the outside of the Hanyang Fortress, part-military base and part-tourist attraction. Because this part of the wall still serves its original military purpose, a proper form of identification is required—either a passport or an Alien Registration Card. Failure to bring identification will result in you being turned away. A grueling hike leads to the fortress; from the top of it, you can easily see why the spot is military advantageous. To one side are the mountains that eventually lead to North Korea, and to the other is northern Seoul. You can see Seoul’s N-Tower, Dongdaemun, and other famous sites, along with a breathtaking cityscape that almost seems misplaced next to such beautiful mountains.

Go>
Take local bus #2 from Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 2.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

ⓒ Seoul Selection

It’s lunchtime, and Jo Chang-yeon is waiting at the top of an alley as a group of film students shoots some footage of scenery. A photographer, he comes here at least once a month. “It’s easy to get lost in here and discover new things,” he says.

That’s probably the best way to sum up Bukchon. There are few other older neighborhoods in Seoul that have managed to survive more or less intact through Korea’s turbulent 20th century history, but Bukchon is by far the largest, and the most picturesque. Its winding alleys lined by stately Korean homes are best explored slowly, and with only the most rudimentary of plans. The goal here is to get lost, discovering what Bukchon has to offer each corner at a time.

[box_light]Between two palaces[/box_light]

Bukchon, or “North Village,” takes its name from its location north of two of old Seoul’s landmarks: Jongno Street and Cheonggyecheon Stream. Its position on the hills between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces is much more defining, however. In the Joseon Dynasty, high officials kept large estates in the area, where they enjoyed easy access to the throne and fine views of the royal capital.

In the early 20th century, however, Seoul began to modernize; as it did, its population skyrocketed. To relieve the pressures, the large estates here were divided into smaller plots. On the plots were built hanok, or “Korean homes,” easily recognized by their graceful, curved roofs. Unlike their country cousins, however, these hanok were densely packed, townhouse-style, into the alleys that spread along the hills like the veins of a leaf. The result, when seen from above, resembles a cascading sea of black roof tiles.

For much of the 20th century, Bukchon was the wealthiest neighborhood in Seoul. In the 1970s, however, the development of the tony Gangnam district sparked a demographic shift as many of the wealthy moved south of the Hangang River. In the 1990s, many of the hanok were torn down to make way for unsightly multifamily homes. This caused concern, and in 2001, Seoul City and local residents got together to launch a program to allow residents to update their homes while preserving the hanok’s unique beauty and the singular charm of the neighborhood.

ⓒ Seoul Selection

[box_light]31 Gahoe-dong[/box_light]

The Bukchon area is home to about 900 hanok homes, but the two biggest clusters are along two alleys, 31 Gahoe-dong in the west and 11 Gahoe-dong in the east.

Of these, 31 Gahoe-dong is by far the most visited. It’s easy to see why: set on a hill, the inclined street climbs steeply to the top, not unlike San Francisco’s Lombard Street (minus the hairpin turns), and is lined bottom to top by handsome old hanok homes with their rustically decorated stone and brick walls. From the bottom, it’s a picture-perfect vision of old Korean charm. From the top, it’s a postcard clash of old and new, the tile roofs striking a dramatic contrast with the skyscrapers in the backdrop. In the distance, Mt. Namsan looms like a folding screen. Of Bukchon’s eight most scenic spots—the so-called Bukchon Palgyeong—three can be found on this road (or just overlooking it) alone.

Come here any day of the week, and you’ll find groups of people gathered at the bottom and top of the street, posing for group photos or just pausing to admire the view. At the top of the hill, American Peter Goughnour is touring the area with some Korean friends of his. Asked what he thinks of the area, he says, “It’s one of the few neighborhoods still around in the old Korean traditional style.” Oh Junho, a film student shooting some practice film in the area, puts it succinctly, “This is Korean beauty.”

Simsimheon
ⓒ Seoul Selection

Most of the homes here are, well, homes and therefore off-limits to the public. One home, however, is open and well-worth the visit. Simsimheon (admission: 10,000 won. simsimheon. com), or “House Where the Heart is Found,” is a private residence currently operated by the National

Trust of Korea, an NGO working to protect Korea’s environmental and historical heritage. Built in 2002 by master craftsman Jung Yeong-soo, it’s a perfect blend of Korean traditional charm and modern convenience. The National Trust of Korea’s Chung Young-jin, who shows Japanese and Englishspeaking guests around the home, explains, “None of the homes in Bukchon are open to the public. Here, visitors can experience the hanok, the hanok lifestyle, the furniture and the layout.” Typical of Korean traditional architecture, the hanok strikes a harmony with nature. Wood is left unpainted and unprocessed, architectural elements like the ceiling rafters are exposed. Simsimheon’s courtyard, a grass garden with a couple of crooked red pines, a rough-hewn stone basin and some stone steps, connects the home with nature and provides a relaxing visual element. Each window presents its own enchanting view. Even the furnishings are works by master artisans. Says Chung, “Everything here is a work of art.” It’s an experience best enjoyed over a cup of homemade plum tea, which is served to visitors.

[box_light]Coffee and tea[/box_light]

Cha Masineun Tteul
ⓒ Seoul Selection

While mostly residential, Bukchon does have a couple of spots where the weak and weary can stop for a bit of refreshment. Cha Masineun Tteul (T. 02-722-7006), or “The Garden Where Tea Is Drunk,” is a gorgeous old hanok perched on a hill near 31 Gahoe-dong; true to its name, it surrounds a lovely garden. Plate-glass walls allows guests to appreciate the surroundings as they enjoy their hot beverage of choice. The hobak sirutteok, or pumpkin rice cake, is especially delightful.

Coffee Bangatgan
ⓒ Seoul Selection

Coffee Bangatgan (T. 02-732-7656), or “Coffee Mill,” is a cozy, atmospheric coffee shop hidden in an alley near Jeongdok Public Library. The roguishly good-looking guy manning the expresso machine is Lee Gyeong-hwan, who moved to the renovated hanok from a nearby location in 2011. Complaining about the overcommercialization elsewhere in the city, he says, “I feel at peace here.” He filled the renovated hanok with a miscellany of antiques and other vintage items, giving it a lived-in feel reminiscent of your Korean grandmother’s home. “Some of the younger customers find it a bit unfamiliar,” says Lee, “But to older customers, it’s like the home they used to live in when they were young.” Along the walls are portraits sketched by Lee himself; for customers, he’ll draw you up a quick portrait for just 5,000 won. The waffles are a real treat, but the draw is the coffee, brewed from fair-trade beans.

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Tip: Experience the hanok

If you’d like to spend a night in a Bukchon hanok (highly recommended!), a number of homes have been renovated as guest houses. The nicest—and priciest—of the bunch is Rak-Ko-Jae (see “Places to Stay, p16”). The friendly Sophia Guest House (T. 02-720-5467), in an alley near Jeongdok Public Library, has single rooms beginning at 35,000 won a night (breakfast included). Bukchon Guest House (T. 010-6711-6717),
on the road in front of Jungang High School, has single rooms beginning at 40,000 won a night; cultural classes and programs offered, too.

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Tip: Be quiet!

Bukchon is a residential neighborhood. As you explore, respect the neighbors and keep your voice down.

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Tip: Bukchon tours

SEOUL’s executive editor Robert Koehler conducts walking tours of Bukchon every Saturday at 2:30pm. Tours depart from Seoul Selection Bookshop next to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Cost: 30,000 won. Call the bookshop at 02-734-9565 for more information.

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GO>
Exit 2, Anguk Station, Line 3. Head up the stonewalled alley to Jeongdok Public Library, in front of which you’ll find a tourism information booth. Pick up a map there—they’re very helpful.

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