Seoul area bike rides

Hangang River

With 18 bike-friendly bridges, there are many ways to ride the Hangang. You can do a one-way trip out and back on one side, or pick two bridges and ride a loop connecting them. A central orientation point for most bike activity on the Hangang is Banpo Bridge. While most bridges are accessed by elevator or stairs from the path, the Banpo has two levels, with a path connecting both sides on the lower level. Banpo Hangang Park, on the south side of the river, is a great place to take a break.

Heading west, the path passes by Ichon Park, with great views of the Yeouido skyline, and about 3 km further, Mangwon Park is a great rest stop. Right at the base of Seongsan Bridge, the park has several convenience stores, a large grassy lawn, bike and boat rentals, wakeboarding and a stage with occasional live music in the afternoons.

Just past Seongsan Bridge is Hongjecheon Stream, one of the many waterways feeding the Hangang from the mountains to the north. From here, there’s a nice bike path leading 8 km north to Hongje-dong, right at the foot of Mt. Bukhansan. This is a scenic ride, with many great views of the mountains on the way.

Back to the Hangang, continuing west past Hongjecheon, Nanji Hangang Park has a great grassy lawn and tons of amenities. If you want get the quads burning a bit, spin up to the top of Haneul Park, a pair of flat-topped hills right next to Nanji. The sunset views from here are spectacular.

Further west, the path meanders through scenic marshland areas, and eventually ends about 7.5 km past Hongjecheon.

Hangang biking 101

The bike path on the north side of the river is less crowded and safer. This becomes even more so as you head west past Mapo-gu.

The path on the south side of the river is more crowded, especially on weekends and west of Banpo Bridge. East of Banpo and past Olympic Park, the route is much nicer and less crowded as you continue out toward Yangpyeong.

No daylight? No problem! Most of the main bike paths are well lit within city limits and the early evening is when the Hangang really starts hopping. People head down in droves after work to bike, walk rollerblade, run, drink, sing, camp and eat until the wee hours. Just but be sure to have a bike light for safety and ride defensively.

Any social ride on the Han usually includes a beer stop or two at the numerous convenience stores right next to the path. Grab a snack, grab a table with some friends and sip a cold beer as you watch life go by.

Spend an evening in the many parks along the way and order some fried chicken or pizza delivery.

Distance: Varies

Elevation gain: Flat

Banpo Bridge→Ichon Park→Yeouido Park→Seoul Forest→Mangwon Park→Hongjecheon Stream→Bicycle Path→Nanji Hangang, Haneul and World Cup Stadium parks→Hongje-dong→Finish

The heart course

A bread and butter loop for many cyclists in Seoul, this loop connects bike paths on the Hangang, Yangjae, Hagui and Anyang Rivers. Aside from a short segment on a road in Anyang that joins the Yangjae and Hagui Rivers, this is exclusively on river bike paths, and mostly flat. It’s called the “heart course” because of its heart-like shape on map. The ride offers safe riding and nice views of Mt. Gwanaksan as it wraps around the base.

Distance: 70 km

Elevation gain: Mostly flat

Banpo Bridge→Tancheon River→Yangjaecheon River→Haguicheon River→Anyangcheon River→Mt. Gwanaksan→Yeouido

Paldang Station-Namyangju-Bukhangang loop

This loop is long but rewarding, and can be ridden in either direction. Ride from Seoul, or take the Gyeongui-Jungang subway out to Paldang Station, a great jumping-off point for a number of beautiful rides in the area. The loop combines river bike paths, small city streets and a very cool stretch built on the abandoned Gyeongchun railway.

Naver Maps has a well-marked version of this route on their bicycle overlay, so use your smart phone to help navigate. Heading west on the Hangang River from Paldang Station, the route turns north along Wangsukcheon River, then heads east toward Namyangju, passing through several abandoned railway tunnels providing brief, refreshing blasts of cool air on hot days. The path turns south along the Bukhangang River, where you can grab a tasty lunch at the many restaurants in the area. Don’t miss the railroad bike bridge at Yangsuri; it has great views and the park below the bridge is a good place for a rest stop.

Distance: 75 km

Elevation gain: A few small hills

Paldang Station(Gyeongui-Jungang Line)→Wangsukcheon River Path→Gyeongchun abandoned railway bike Path→Bukhangang River Path→Yangsuri Railroad Bike Bridge

Twin Peaks: Mt. Namsan and Bugak Skyway

People who ride for fitness know that you really can’t get in proper shape without some hill climbing. While the best hill climbs are out east in Gangwon-do Province, Seoulites who want to add a little pain to their cycling workout ride Mt. Namsan and the Bugak Skyway.

Either can be ridden separately, but this ride combines both inclines into a single nifty loop with some river path riding. If you ride the loop, do it clockwise because the road up Mt. Namsan is one-way. Take advantage of your time at the top of Mts. Namsan and Bugak to take it all in: Both offer great views of the skyline, and Mt. Bugaksan offers fantastic views of Mt. Bukhansan. The Bugak Skyway route passes through the streets of Samcheong-dong, the heart of Korean traditional culture in Seoul.

Distance: 46 km

Elevation gain: 500 m

Banpo Bridge→Mt. Namsan and N Seoul Tower→Bugak Skyway→Gyeongbokgung Palace→Seongbukcheon River→Cheonggyecheon River→Mt. Namsan entrance

Seoul to Chuncheon on the Bukhangang River

This is easily the most beautiful ride along the Hangang River system, a relaxing cruise along beautiful waterways against a dramatic green mountain backdrop. At 138 km long, fit riders can do this ride in one day, but it also makes a nice two-day ride with an overnight stop midway.

The ride is well marked and mostly on bike paths, with a few segments on streets with bike lanes. This route is also included on the Naver Maps bicycle overlay, so your smart phone is once again a must-have for navigation. Don’t miss a pit stop at Jaraseom Island near Gapyeong with great views of the surrounding mountains.

There are two routes into Chuncheon: Follow the marked bike paths east and approach the town from the south, or stay on the west side of the path and follow it north clockwise and approach the city from the north. The latter allows you to visit the Animation and Robot Museum, exhibiting the origin, birth and development of animation in Korea and around the world.

After recharging with a hearty meal of Chuncheon’s famous dak galbi (marinated chicken) or makguksu (cold buckwheat noodle soup), jump on the ITX train back to Seoul (74 minutes; KRW 9,800)

Distance: 138 km

Elevation gain: Mostly flat

Banpo Bridge→Paldang Bridge and Station, Gyeongui-Jungang Line→Yangsuri railroad bike bridge→Daeseong-ri village and Uncheon River→Cheongpyeong→Gapyeong and Jaraseom Island botanical gardens→Chuncheon→Alternate path to Animation Museum and Robot Studio→ITX train return

Seoul’s hidden oasis of nature

Nestled away on the slopes of Mt. Bugaksan in the exceptionally relaxing Buam-dong district, the Baeksasil Valley – literally, the “valley of mountains surrounded by streams” – is where you go to get away from Seoul … without actually leaving the city. In the days of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), this area, a scenic pass through Seoul’s guardian mountains, was a favorite leisure spot of the aristocracy, who erected luxurious villas in the hills. After experiencing the views, fresh air and tranquility, you’ll understand why.

The hike into the valley will take you through thick forests, past beautiful mountain streams and through almost bucolic hillside communities. You’ll also see a Buddhist temple or two and the ruins of an old villa and pleasure pond. There’s a fair amount of wildlife up here, including salamanders, frogs, minnows and crayfish. Wild boars sometimes make an appearance, too – be sure to keep an eye out.

FYI> tour.jongno.go.kr

SEE> Okcheonam Hermitage has a lovely rock-carved relief of the Buddha dating from the Goryeo era (918-1392). Painted seashell white, the carving was, oddly enough, a favorite picnic spot of Westerners living in Seoul in the early 20th century.

EAT> There are lots of good places in the area to get stuffed. One of the highlights is Jaha Sonmandu (T. 02-379-2648), which specializes in handmade dumplings. A couple of eateries, such as Sai (T. 02-395-4242) and Gyeyeolsa (T. 02-391-3566), have made a name for themselves doing old-school fried chicken. For coffee, Sanmotungi (T. 02-391-4737) is the neighborhood’s better-known café thanks to its jaw-dropping views of the surrounding mountains and its appearance on a popular Korean soap opera.

GO> Take bus Nos. 4-5 or 740 and get off at Banpo Hangang Park.

Samcheonsa and Jingwansa Valleys

Cooling off in the depths of Bukhansan

Bukhansan National Park has plenty of scenic valleys, but two of the most pleasant are the Samcheonsa and Jingwansa valleys on the western side of the mountain. Located well within Seoul’s city limits, the rugged scenery of craggy peaks, deep granite gorges and cascading waterfalls might as well be in the mountain wildernesses of eastern Korea – Gangnam it most certainly ain’t.

If you’re looking for something not especially taxing, the hike from the Samcheonsa Valley to the Jingwansa Valley is fairly simple, and not only is the wild scenery you pass breathtaking but you’ll get some gorgeous views of the park’s main peaks, too. You won’t be able to actually enter the Jingwansa Valley – it’s an off-limits protected zone until 2030 – but you’ll be able to get a good look at it along the way.

FYI> bukhan.knps.or.kr

SEE> The rock-carved Buddha at Samcheonsa Temple dates from the early Goryeo era and is a government-designated treasure.

EAT> At the start of the trail to Samcheonsa you’ll find Cheongsoljip (T. 02-381-3000), a humble shack that does some mean Korean and duck soups and stews.

GO> From Exit 3 of Bulgwang Station (Line 3), take bus No. 7211 and get off at Hana High School.

Gwanaksan Valley

Splish splash in southern Seoul

The imposing giant that overlooks Seoul from the south, Mt. Gwanaksan is blessed with dramatic rock peaks that offer stunning views of the city. Hidden in the forests of its lower reaches, however, is a refreshing valley stream that’s also one of the few streams in Seoul you’re welcomed – nay, encouraged – to play in. At 30-40 cm deep, you won’t be doing much swimming, but it’s perfect for small children to splash around in (or adult children, for that matter).

Specialists keep the water quality up to industry standards, and there are staff and rescue personnel on hand to keep everybody safe. Just above the bathing area there are a couple of gardens and a hiking path that will take you up the mountain itself.

FYI> Open from 10 AM to 6 PM through Aug. 31

SEE> Perched on a cliff at the top of the mountain is the small Buddhist hermitage of Yeonjudae. While the hermitage itself it for devotees only, there’s an observation deck near the weather station at the peak with fine views of it.

EAT> Near Exit 3 of Sillim Station (Line 2) are two complexes – Yangji Minsok Sundae Town and Wonjo Minsok Sundae Town– dedicated Korean sausages, or sundae. Go with the pan-fried sundae, or sundae bokkeum – cheap, filling, and oh-so-good.

GO> From Exit 3 of Seoul National University Station (Line 2), take a bus to the entrance of Seoul National University and get off there.

Swimming pools in Seoul

You don’t have to go to the beach to enjoy a summertime swim

Don’t have the time or inclination to venture down to the legendarily crowded Korean Riviera of Haeundae in Busan? Don’t burn your bathing suit just yet  Seoul has plenty of good places to take a dip.

In Itaewon, the rooftop pool of the Hamilton Hotel (T. 02-3786-6247) is a popular party destination, with a DJ pumping out dance tunes and views over the neighborhood that are worth the KRW 15,000 price of admission. The W Seoul-Walkerhill (T. 02-465-2222) and Sheraton Grande Walkerhill (T. 02-2022-0000), meanwhile, have a great outdoor pool/waterpark that is open to the paying public. Like the Hamilton, it can be a wild and crazy place on the weekend, but it’s got waterslides and other features for the kids, too. There are also seven public pools (hangang.seoul.go.kr) along the Hangang River, including popular ones in Yeouido Park and near the Cheongdam Bridge in Ttukseom.

Pay tribute to those who made the ultimate sacrifice

June 25 marks the 65th anniversary of the start of the Korean War (1950-1953), and the War Memorial of Korea is a good place to learn about this tragic conflict. Part memorial and part museum, the sprawling complex in Yongsan is home to about 9,000 war-related artifacts housed in both indoor and outdoor exhibits. The kids will love the large numbers of tanks, fighter planes, missiles and artillery pieces – many of which were captured during the Korean and Vietnam wars – on display on the outdoor lawn. Much more solemn, however, are the memorial cloisters where you’ll find the names of each and every South Korean and U.N. soldier who fell in the Korean War. While the Korean War gets pride of place, there are artifacts from the entirety of Korean military history, from ancient battles to more recent actions in Iraq and Afghanistan.

FYI>  Hours: 9 AM to 6 PM, closed Mondays
Admission is free.
T. 02-709-3139 / www.warmemo.or.kr

SEE> Don’t miss the life-sized replica of a geobukseon, or turtle ship, the style of warship used by 16th-century admiral and war hero Yi Sun-sin to devastating effect against Japanese invaders. It can be seen in the Joseon Dynasty military history hall.

EAT> Itaewon, Gyeongnidan and Haebangchon – aka the trifecta of greatest international food neighborhoods on the Korean Peninsula – are just a short walk away. Off the radar to international visitors but plenty well-known to local foodies is Myeonghwawon (T. 02-792-2969), a Chinese restaurant located right next to the memorial on the Samgakji Station side. The humble establishment serves some of the finest tangsuyuk, or sweet and sour pork, in the city. They’re closed on Sundays, though.

GO> Exit 1, 11 or 12 of Samgakji Station (Line 6)

Namhansanseong Fortress 남한산성

Beautiful views from a virtual museum of Asian fortress design

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Namhansanseong Fortress has a history that goes back to the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280), but the current incarnation dates from a 1623 restoration. It is most famous for a 1636 siege when its outnumbered Korean defenders held out for 47 days against an invading Manchu force until King Injo, who had taken refuge behind the walls, finally surrendered. Technologically advanced for its time, the bastion incorporates elements of Chinese and Japanese fortress design, making it something of an outdoor museum of East Asian military engineering.
The fortress has about 12 km of walls, and includes old wooden command pavilions, several Buddhist temples and a restored palace used by the kings of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) during national emergencies such as invasion. Hiking trails offer inspiring views over Seoul and the surrounding Gyeonggi-do region.

FYI> namhansansung.or.kr

SEE> The observation deck near the West Gate is a
popular spot for Korean photographers – the views of the setting sun and Seoul at night make it worth the wait.

EAT> The rotary where the bus drops you off is surrounded by Korean restaurants, many specializing in baeksuk, or Korean chicken soup. This writer personally likes Baekjejang (T. 031-746-7296), an atmospheric hanok restaurant specializing in hanjeongsik, or Korean banquet cuisine.

GO> Take Bus No. 52 or 9-1 from Exit 1 of Sanseong Station (Line 8).

Buam-dong 부암동

Slow down and relax in Seoul’s mountain retreat

The best way to describe Buam-dong would be to call it a charming little mountain town in the heart of Seoul. Hidden away in a pass between Mt. Bugaksan and Mt. Inwangsan, this quaint, laid-back neighborhood of small eateries and galleries has yet, we’re happy to report, to be overrun by tourists, possibly in part due to the fact that getting there requires a bus ride (albeit a short one) from the nearest subway spot. You’ll still find lots of people, especially on a weekend, but you will have no problem wandering the alleyways in peace and tranquility. Buam-dong is also a good base from which to launch explorations of Seoul’s old city walls. One of the structure’s smaller gates is located right at the entrance to the neighborhood.
While you’re in the area, but sure to check out Seoul Museum, a modern art gallery whose most notable quality may be the 19th-century Joseon Dynasty villa that sits on the museum grounds, and the Whanki Museum, a beautiful exhibit space dedicated to the work of the late Kim Whanki, one of the fathers of Korean abstract painting.

FYI> If you’re going to hike along the old city wall on Mt. Bugaksan, remember that you need to have a valid ID, you can only enter the trail between 9 AM and 4 PM and you must be off the mountain by 6 PM.

EAT> There are lots of good places in the area to get stuffed. One of the highlights is Jaha Sonmandu (T. 02-379-2648), which specializes in handmade dumplings. A couple of places, such as Sai (T. 02-395-4242) and Gyeyeolsa (T. 02-391-3566), have made a name for themselves doing old-school fried chicken. For coffee, try Sanmotungi (T. 02-391-4737) and Club Espresso (T. 02-764-8719).

SEE> A space dedicated to one of Korea’s most-loved poets, the Yun Dong-ju Literature Hall, located just in front of the overpass at the entrance of Buam-dong, is one of Seoul’s best small museums.

GO> Take Bus No. 1020 or 7022 from Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3) and get off at Buam-dong Community Service Center.

Haebangchon 해방촌

Great food with a side of art as HBC comes into its own

While the nearby Gyeongnidan district has been getting most of the recent attention, Haebangchon (“Liberation Village”), too, is becoming quite the charming dining and nightlife spot. Formed after the Korean War by North Korean refugees and more recently a popular residential district for Western and Nigerian expats, the hillside neighborhood has long been full of foreigner-friendly restaurants and cafés, and the selection is definitely on the rise. The authorities have recently gotten it in their heads to rechristen the neighborhood as “HBC Art Village,” and sure enough, you’ll find works of public art displayed here and there, although some of the more “unofficial” graffiti art may also be of interest. Follow the main drag to the top of the neighborhood and you’ll come to Mt. Namsan’s beltway road and the views it provides.

EAT> You’ll find wall-to-wall restaurants, including several of the now obligatory pizza and craft-beer joints. A local institution is Jacoby’s Burger (T. 02-3785-0433), where the burgers come big and customizable. One of this writer’s favorite sandwich shops in HBC – nay, Seoul – is Casablanca (T. 02-797-8367), which dishes up mouthwatering but reasonably priced Moroccan sandwiches served on New Orleans baguettes.

SEE> A local landmark, as well as a piece of painful modern history, is the 108 Steps, a flight of granite steps erected by the Japanese during the colonial era to aid access to the big Shinto shrine (since demolished) they’d built on Mt. Namsan.

GO> The entrance to Haebangchon is a short walk from Exit 2 of Noksapyeong Station (Line 6).

Dazzling lights adorn the streets of Seoul  연등회

To commemorate Buddha’s coming into this world, every year the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism hosts the extravagant Lotus Lantern Festival (May 15-17). The festival is one of the major annual celebrations that take place in the heart of Seoul, drawing together travelers and residents, believers and non-believers alike. All programs are very family-oriented and can be enjoyed by people of any age and background. The festival’s heading event is a lantern parade that showcases thousands of lights in various shapes and sizes. This year’s procession starts at Dongdaemun Gate and ends at Gwanghwamun Square. It’s not often that Jongno, the major thoroughfare of the city, is blocked for a parade, so don’t miss the chance to partake in this special celebration.

FYI> Most programs will take place at Jogyesa Temple, Bongeunsa Temple, Cheonggyecheon Stream, Gwanghwamun Plaza and Dongguk University. The Lantern Parade will take place on May 16, 6 PM. For more info, T. 2011-1746, llf.or.kr

EAT> Balwoo Gongyang (T. 02-2031-2081, baru.or.kr) on the fifth floor of the Templestay Information Center serves fresh and delicate Korean temple cuisine, a perfect way to make your Zen Buddhism experience complete.

GO> Jogyesa Temple is accessible from Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Walk straight ahead to the intersection and turn left at the corner. When you see the Templestay Information Center on your left, cross the street and you should see the entrance to the temple.

Gyeongbokgung Palace 경복궁

As the main royal residence of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), Gyeongbokgung Palace is a testament to the richness of Korea’s culture and architectural history. On select dates in the spring and fall the palace grounds are opened for public viewing during evening – an entirely different kind of experience from seeing the palace in daylight. This month, the royal monuments will be beautifully illuminated after dark from May 2 to 14 (7 PM to 9 PM).

FYI> Korean nationals can reserve tickets online and foreigners can purchase tickets at the door. For more info, T. 3700-3900, www.royalpalace.go.kr

EAT> If you didn’t get to purchase the tickets, head to the rooftop garden on the eighth floor of the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History (T. 3703-9200, much.go.kr), which offers a stunning view of the palace grounds.

GO> Gyeongbokgung Station 경복궁역 (Line 3), Exit 5

Seoul Friendship Fair 2015  2015 지구촌 나눔 한마당

What’s a more exciting way to spend the “Family Month” of May than taking your loved ones on a two-day journey around the world? Over 60 embassies and hundreds of international performers will be participating in this year’s Seoul Friendship Fair (May 2-3), helping turn the annual event into a truly multicultural experience. At the fair, visitors can enjoy traditional performances and craft folk art and savor exotic flavors from around the globe.

FYI> The fair takes place in Seoul Plaza, Seoul City Hall, Mugyo-ro and Cheonggye Plaza. More information can be found at www.seoulfriendshipfair.org

GO> Seoul City Hall Station 시청역 (Line 1 or 2), Exit 5

MMCA, Gwacheon

High culture in the suburbs  국립현대미술관 과천관

Surrounded by Seoul Grand Park in the city of Gwacheon, a suburb of Seoul, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMCA), Gwacheon, is the flagship campus of Korea’s national modern art museum system. Since opening in 1986 the museum has accumulated a rich collection of about 7,000 works of modern art created by prominent artists from both Korea and abroad. The museum also hosts three or four special exhibits a month, providing a good cross-section of local and global artistic trends.

One piece of work that should not be missed is “The More, the Better,” a pagoda created in 1988 by the late Korean video artist Paik Nam-june. The work, constructed of 1,003 television monitors stacked to a height of 22.8 meters, is housed in a special circular hall and is viewed from an ascending spiral ramp. The outdoor exhibit is also worth exploring, especially in warmer weather.

FYI> Admission is free, but special exhibits charge an entry fee. Hours: 10 AM to 6 PM, closed Mondays. For more info, call T. 2188-6000 or visit www.mmca.go.kr.

EAT> The museum has a cafeteria and an outdoor snack bar.

SEE> Be sure to see Paik Nam-june’s “The More, the Better,” the best-known work in the museum’s collection.

GO> Exit 4, Seoul Grand Park Station (Line 4). To get to the museum, either walk or use Seoul Grand Park’s tram.
You can also make use of the shuttle bus that takes museum-goers on round-trip tours of all the MMCA’s locations. The service, which is free for museum visitors, departs four times a day (10 AM, noon, 2 PM and 4 PM) from in front of the MMCA Seoul (next to Gwanghwamun). Buses take you to the MMCA Deoksugung and MMCA Gwacheon before taking you back to the MMCA Seoul.

Olympic Park   올림픽 공원

Though Seoul’s many mountains provide an escape from the urban jungle of the capital, finding a large area of open green space in the city can be difficult. Fortunately, Olympic Park offers a vast meadow in which children can frolic freely, with grounds that include 1.5 square kilometers of grassland and many exquisitely themed gardens, as well as a lake. May and June are the prime times to see the flowers, particularly the roses, so take a visit before the summer heat hits them.

FYI> Make sure to familiarize yourself with the exits and entrance points to avoid getting lost. For more information, T. 02-410-1114, www.olympicpark.co.kr

EAT> Close to Exit 4 of Bangi Station 방이역 (Line 5) is Byeokje Galbi (T. 02-392-7892), a high-end Korean beef barbecue restaurant.

GO> Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3. To get to the Rose Garden, walk straight for about 550 m to South Gate 1.

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Picnic underneath pink rainfall

Children’s Day on May 5 isn’t the only time you should plan a day at Seoul Children’s Grand Park. In April, the space turns into a fairy tale garden when the cherry blossoms come into full bloom and clusters of azaleas, tulips and other springtime flowers adorn the park with a splash of color. Though the park is beautiful throughout, the meadow around Guuimun Gate is the ideal spot to settle down for lunch. Visitors can grab take-out from a nearby restaurant and have a family picnic while your little ones frolic freely around the grounds. During the month of April, the park will host a variety of spring-related events including outdoor concerts, so expect to be entertained both visually and aurally.

FYI> 450-9311, sisul.or.kr/global/eng

EAT> There are only small snack carts and fast-food chains in the park grounds so if you hope to eat at the park, plan to bring your meal in from outside. There are also many family-friendly restaurants near the park such as VIPS (T. 462-0997) and Outback Steakhouse (T. 3436-2691).

DO> The park grounds also feature a zoo, a botanical garden and an amusement park — plenty to fill your day with fun activities. Most of these facilities are offered free of charge.

GO> Children’s Grand Park Station 어린이대공원 (Line 7), Exit 1. You should see the park on your right as soon as you exit.

Mt. Eungbongsan 응봉산

The yellow blooms that decorate forsythia bushes are a well-known precursor of spring in Seoul. For those looking to enjoy the season’s floral offerings before cherry blossoms come into full bloom, Mt. Eungbongsan will be draped with the canary-colored sprays by the end of March. The mountain’s peak is only about 81 m in height, and the shortest path will take you to the top within 20 minutes. The summit also offers a picturesque view of the cityscape come nightfall, so come for the splendor of springtime during the day and stay for the sparkle of lights after dark.

FYI> sd.go.kr

GO> Kumho Station 금호역 (Line 2), Exit 1. Take maeul bus 8 and get off at Raemian Apartment. Near the stop is an overpass bridge, and when you walk past the bridge you should see a wooden stairway that leads to the summit.

Mt. Namsan 남산

A stroll under a flower canopy

Along with Yeouido, Mt. Namsan is one of the most popular tourist destinations during spring. The abundance and concentration of cherry blossom trees and forsythia that decorate the mountain make it the ideal place to admire spring flowers in plenitude. Part of what makes the trails off Mt. Namsan ideal is that you can choose a route that fits your plans and energy level. Visitors who don’t mind hiking a bit and want to seek out the area’s entrancing flower tunnel, take the southern route that starts from the Namsan Library and leads up to the N Seoul Tower. This route has the highest saturation of cherry blossom trees in the mountain. The northern route that starts from the National Theater of Korea is great for a quieter stroll, as the inclines are gentler and fewer cars will disturb your spring promenade.

FYI> parks.seoul.go.kr

SEE> The N Seoul Tower and Palgakjeong Pavilion provide stunning views of the city day and night.

EAT> N.Grill (T. 3455-9297) is a rotating restaurant located on the highest visitor platform of the N Seoul Tower. The restaurant serves delectable French cuisine prepared by Michelin-starred chefs.

GO> There are many entry points to Mt. Namsan, but if you plan to reach the summit, take the cable car near Myeong-dong Station 명동역 (Line 4), Exit 3. From Exit 3, climb the hill past the Pacific Hotel for about 10 minutes. The cable car ticket booth should be next to the Chinese Embassy.

Follow the wood-deck road

If you cringe at the thought of spending half a day trekking Mt. Bukhansan but would still like to benefit from a great view of the city, Mt. Ansan is the perfect mountain for a casual hike. Located in the Seodaemun-gu district of Seoul, a pair of comfortable shoes is all you’ll need to shake off those winter blues and start watching for early signs of spring. Look to the base of the mountain for Ansan Jarak-gil, or “skirt road,” a path of wooden deck designed for those looking to enjoy a more leisurely walk along the peak’s gentle slopes, ideal for elderly visitors or parents with strollers. The deck-trail is only seven kilometers and length, and a complete cycle can be completed in two-and-a-half hours. Many of those fortunate enough to live in the area simply walk a portion of the Jarak-gil trail as their evening exercise. If someone in your group would prefer to tackle the summit, you can always take the dirt path to Bongsudae, the beacon mounds that were used to send military smoke signals during Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Hike up to the mounds early in the morning to get a great view of sunrise.

FYI> 02-330-1114, eng.sdm.go.kr

EAT> The recommended eateries overlap with that of Seodaemun Prison History Hall. Near Dongnimmun Station, Exit 3, is Daesungjib (T. 02-735-4259), which has been serving doganitang, or ox knee stew, for over 60 years.

DO> Bongwon-sa Temple (T. 02-392-3007) is one of the quieter Buddhist temples in the city, a fantastic place to meditate or just have a quiet break.

SEE> There are many observatory points around the deck trail where you can catch breathtaking views of the area’s most historically significant sites: Use your guide book map to spot Gwanghwamun, Cheong Wa Dae, the Hangang River and even the 63 Building glistening like a torch during sunset. If you hike up to the Bongsudae mounds after nightfall, you can view the cityscape and catch Mt. Namsan floating like an island in the sea of distant lights.

GO> The mountain has many entrance points and one of the more convenient spots is near Dongnimmun Station 독립문역 (Line 3), Exit 5. From the exit, walk through the Seodaemun Prison History Hall toward Lee Jina Memorial Library. If you hike up from the library, you will see the wooden deck trail. You can also access the mountain from Seodaemun-gu Office or Yonsei University’s Muak Dormitory.

Seodaemun Prison History Hall 서대문형무소

Commemorate Korea’s national holiday Samiljeol, the March 1 Movement Day, by visiting Seodaemun Prison History Hall. On March 1, 1919, Korean independent activists led a peaceful demonstration against Japanese occupation in the Jongno area. Many of those arrested in the protest were incarcerated at the Seodaemun Prison, one of which being 17-year-old Ryu Gwan-sun, who was eventually martyred on site. In 1995, the prison grounds were renovated as a museum dedicated to the martyrs of the independence movement. Comparable to Auschwitz or the Anne Frank House, the prison shows the darker side of Korean modern history, offering a humbling look into the oppression faced by an entire generation of Koreans. Guided tours in English or Japanese are available upon booking.

FYI> 02-360-8586, eng.sdm.go.kr

EAT> Near the entrance of Yeongcheon Market you can pick up some classic, snack-sized donuts at Darin Kkwabaegi (달인 꽈배기) sold at four for only KRW 1,000. You also can find other fried goodness at a food stall inside the market called Mudeungsan, where you can try an assortment of fried squid, quail eggs, sesame leaves and jeons (Korean pancakes) wrapped in lettuce.

DO> Directly next to the prison is another memorial, Dongnimmun Gate (T. 02-330-1121), or Independence Gate, which was modeled after France’s Arc de Triomphe. Across from Dongnimmun Gate is Yeongcheon Market, one of the smaller but less gentrified traditional markets in Seoul.

GO> Dongnimmun Station 독립문역 (Line 3), Exit 5

Korean Temple Food Festival 사찰음식축제

Stop by the Seoul Trade Exhibition & Convention (SETEC) on March 12-15 to take part in the third Korean Temple Food Festival. Hosted by the Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism, the festival will feature delicacies made by eleven temples especially recognized for their food offerings, as well as by monks renowned for their culinary skills. There will be a wide range of exhibits, lectures, tastings and hands-on programs where visitors can experience the unique taste and spirit of Buddhist cuisine as it has been handed down through the ages. For international participants, there will be specially prepared Buddhist meals, motion games based on Buddhist meals and webtoons about temple food.

FYI> 2031-2032

Location: SETEC

Date: March 12-15

Hangnyeoul Station 학여울역 (Line 3), Exit 1.

Insa-dong 인사동

During the years of the Joseon Dynasty, Insa-dong served as the location of Dohwaseo, a national bureau of art, as well as being the home of many wealthy government officials and artists at the time. When these officials and artists were forced to move out of the area during Japanese occupation, they had no choice but to sell their property and many valuables. As a result, Insa-dong quickly turned into an alley of antique shops and galleries where Japanese officials purchased high-end artifacts from the Joseon Dynasty. Insa-dong’s proximity to Japanese Government-General of Korea also made it a base for the independence movement. Taewhaguan, now the Taewha Building, was a gathering point of the 33 patriots that started the March 1 Movement. Visiting Insa-dong with this history in mind will give you a different impression on the popular art and craft destination in Seoul.

FYI>www.visitseoul.net

EAT> Many authentic Korean cuisines can be found among Insa-dong’s alleyways. Try doenjang bibimbap, a bibimbap with bean paste instead of the usual pepper paste, at Toenmarujip Doenjangyesul (T. 02-739-5683). If you’re a vegetarian, visit Sanchon (T. 02-735-0312, www.sanchon.com) and test out some fresh and healthy Korean temple cuisine. Warm up your body with traditional tea at Dawon (T. 02-730-6305), located within the Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art.

DO> Insa-dong is the best place to shop for anything Korean and traditional, from small souvenir items to more expensive pieces of art. Ssamziegil (T. 02-1330) houses over 70 stores that sell different kinds of unique craftworks. Tong-in (www.tonginstore.com) offers more upscale pieces such as fine tea wares and jewelry, one of the premier antique craft shops in Korea.

GO> Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Walk straight about 80 meters and turn left when you see Insadong-gil.

Sejong Village 세종마을

Feel at home in the meandering alleyways

More widely known as “Seochon” (“West Village”) because of its location on the west side of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Sejong Village’s artistic lineage goes back to the Joseon era, when the area was home to middle-class intellectuals and the craft workers who supplied their wares to the palace. Many artists, musicians and famous authors brought their work to life in these houses; writer Yi Sang (1910-1937) and artist Park No-su (1927-2013) lived in the area. Because of its proximity to Cheong Wa Dae, Korea’s presidential palace, development was highly restricted for decades, and it’s only been in the past 20 years that outsiders were able to roam its alleyways freely. Many local residents have kept the same neighbors for large portions of their lives, adding to the area’s historic charm, and the narrow and crooked roads have slowed the hand of progress to the extent that most hanok are well-preserved and in their original form. Privately owned café, galleries and boutique shops are dispersed around the neighborhood, standing in stark contrast to the tall, shiny buildings of Gwanghwamun; it’s hard to spot a building that reaches higher than three floors in the village. In any case, Sejong Village is growing in popularity for its unique, quaint ambiance. Life’s frenetic pace is known to lesson for those who step away from Seoul’s busy crowds and explore Sejong’s picturesque lanes and quiet backstreets.

FYI> www.visitseoul.net

EAT> Sejong Village rose to popularity when Tongin Traditional Market (tonginmarket.co.kr) started the dosirak program, or lunch food takeout system. Try their gireum tteokbokki, a stirred fried rice cake dish that is crispier than the usual tteokbokki. Hyoja Bakery (T. 02-736-7629) has been supplying their bread to Cheong Wa Dae for more than 20 years, and it’s no surprise that long lines regularly form outside for the bakery’s fresh bread. There are also many smaller eateries that carry Western cuisine, such as My Beautiful Laundrette (T. 070-8877-8075), a cozy restaurant that carries French home cooking.

DO> Once you’ve finished having lunch at one of the stalls at Tongin Traditional Market, head further into the village toward the entrance to Mt. Inwang, where Suseong-dong Valley is located. Amid the crags of the peaceful valley is a small park that serves as a great place to take a break from all the walking. Be sure to stop by the Art Museum of Park No-su, an institution that has been registered as Seoul City Cultural Heritage Material No. 1. For those with more contemporary tastes, the Daelim Museum (www.daelimmuseum.org) will be displaying photo works from the late Linda McCartney during the month of March.

GO> Gyeongbokgung Station 경복궁역 (Line 3), Exit 2. Walk straight for about 200 meters before turning into the alleyway on the left. Once you pass the café Nature’s Way you’ll be in the village in no time.

Tasty street eats in Seoul’s hidden gem

Many visitors already know and frequent Dongdaemun Market, a shopping mecca for anyone interested in local fashion, or Namdaemun Market, where hundreds and thousands of residents flock every day. Although smaller in size, Seoul Jungang Market used to rival the other two markets in prominence and was the center of wholesale buying in the ‘70s, housing almost 80 percent of the total grain trade in Seoul at the time. The market began to stagnate, however, when retail stores and department complexes started popping up nearby. A 2004 renovation was designed to update the facilities and make the space easier to navigate, and these days the market boasts more than 1,000 vendors and has become one of the biggest dried seafood markets in Korea. Head to the Seoul Jungang Market to try some of the country’s best anchovies, squid and dried pollack, and be sure to check out the market’s assortment of snack carts and other vendors that sell vegetables, rice cakes, bread and meat of all kinds. Some of the food stalls stay open till late at night, but plan on being there early since most stands close early in the afternoon.

FYI> T. 02-2232-9559

EAT> You can find almost anything to eat around the market in the food stalls and snack carts that sell mouth-watering goodies. Look near the entrance of the market for vendors that sell hotteok, a sweet Korean pancake, or jokbal, pig trotters. You can also find fresh raw fish at the market that is sold at a very good price. Shindang-dong Tteokbokki Street is in vicinity as well, so visit Shingdang-dong Tteokbokki (T. 02-2233-1559) if you are craving some tteokbokki, or stir-fried rice cakes.

DO> Walk around the market and soak in the bustle of Seoul. Make sure to pass through the Sindang Creative Arcade (T. 02-2232-8833), where some of the market’s empty stalls have been reinvented to serve as studios and a gallery for local artists.

GO> Sindang Station 신당역 (Line 2 or 6), Exit 2. Make a U-turn at Exit 2, walk about 200m and you should be at the entrance of the market.

Deoksugung Palace  덕수궁

Deoksugung Palace served as a royal residential palace when most of the other palaces in the country had been burned down during the Imjin War (1592-1598). As a result of this history, the palace served as a royal court for Kings Seonjo (r. 1567-1608) and Gwanghaegun (r. 1608-1623) and Emperors Gojong (r. 1863-1907) and Sunjong (r. 1907-1910). It is especially admired for incorporating both Western and Korean architecture, including a modernized pavilion and western gardens that stand together with more traditional buildings from the 16th century. In addition to being beautiful, however, this strange mixture of architecture is also a reflection of the turbulence of Korean history. At the palace’s rear garden sits a Romanesque pavilion, Jeonggwanheon Pavilion, designed by Russian architect Aleksey Seredin-Sabatin. This space, along with the rest of the palace grounds, are beautiful all throughout the year, making it one of the most romantic spots in the city – it isn’t uncommon to spot couples walking hand-in-hand around Deoksugung Doldamgil, the stone wall that protects the grounds. If you are lucky, you can witness the changing of royal guards at Daehanmun, the front gate.

FYI> T. 02-772-9951, www.deoksugung.go.kr

EAT> At Namdo Shikdang (T. 02-773-7888) you can grab some of the best chueotang (loach soup) in Seoul. Try Ahaabah Braka (T. 02-753-7003, www.ahaabah-braka.co.kr) if you’re in the mood for fine Italian dining. Visit Deoksujung (T. 02-755-0180) and try some budae jjigae, spicy stew with sausages, ramyeon and kimchi.

SEE> Visit Jeongdong Observatory, located on the 13th floor of the Seoul City Hall Seosomun Annex (T. 02-120), to get a panoramic view of Deoksugung Palace and its vicinity. The observatory also has a fair trade café called Café Tterak (T. 02-6361-3977). You can also admire the works of Italian artist Giorgio Morandi at the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Deoksugung (T. 02-2188-6114, www.mmca.go.kr).

GO> Seoul City Hall Station 시청역 (Line 1 or 2), Exit 2

Namsangol Hanok Village 남산골한옥마을

Pil-dong, where Namsangol Hanok Village is located, was once a famous vacation spot during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) because it provided a superb view of the city. Five hanok, or Korean traditional houses, that used to be scattered around different parts of the city were relocated to this area in 1993, carefully disassembled, transported and reassembled over the course of four years. As is the case with Korean design of the past, the five houses, pond and pavilion were all arranged in a way that complements the natural landscape of the area.

FYI> T. 02-2264-4412, www.hanokmaeul.seoul.go.kr

EAT> Complete your experience of traditional Korea by sampling the historic court cuisine of the Joseon Dynasty at Korea House (T. 02-2266-9101). The restaurant is headed by a culinary powerhouse designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property for her artisanship in Korean court cuisine, chef Han Bok-ryeo. If that’s not enough, remember that you are near Myeong-dong and Chungmuro, where you’ll have access to a plenty of other good eats.

DO> Outside of strolling through the village and admiring the neighborhood’s elegant traditional architecture, you can stop by the Seoul Millennium Time Capsule that was buried in 1994.  Visitors can also partake in special programs and performances during Lunar New Year. The village has its own performing arts center, the Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater (T. 02-2261-0512), that gives traditional dance performances all throughout the year. Korea House also has one of the best souvenir shops in Seoul, where you can purchase authentic craftwork made by local artisans.

GO> Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Line 3 or 4), Exit 4. Make a U-turn at Exit 4 and you should come to a five-way intersection. Walk up the road between Holly’s Coffee and GS25, and you should be at the entrance of the village.

Somerset Palace Seoul 서머셋팰리스 서울

Somerset Palace is an excellent place to stay if you’re exploring the vast Gangbuk area on the northern side of the Hangang River. The hotel is conveniently located in the neighborhood surrounding Gwanghwamun Plaza – the heart of Seoul – and is within walking distance of all Five Grand Palaces and many international embassies. In fact, on the top floor of the hotel, visitors can get a spectacular view of Gyeongbokgung Palace and the Blue House. The hotel also serves as a luxurious residential suite for any visitors looking to arrange a long-term stay in Seoul.

FYI> T. 02-6730-8888, www.somersetpalace.co.kr

EAT> Bärlin (T. 02-722-5622), located on the first floor of the hotel, is known for its selection of great beer and authentic Bavarian specialties prepared by a German chef. The second floor of the hotel features Sushi Hyo (T. 02-730-5396), which serves delectable Japanese cuisine.

DO> The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History (T. 02-3703-9200, www.much.go.kr) exhibits thousands of artifacts from Korea’s modern era. At Jogyesa Temple(T. 02-768-8600, www.jogyesa.kr), you can experience Korea’s Zen Buddhism.

GO> Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Walk straight and cross the street at the three-way intersection.

Lotte World Tower and Lotte World Mall 롯데월드타워 & 롯데월드

Shopping at a new landmark

It’s only been a few months since the Korean-Japanese conglomerate Lotte Group opened its highly anticipated Lotte World Tower & Lotte World Mall. Lotte World Tower is a super-skyscraper reaching up to 555 meters in height, built with the goal of becoming a major landmark in Asia. Although the upper parts of the building remain in construction, once the structure is completed in October 2016, the tower will have 123 floors and will be the tallest building on the Korea Peninsula. Lotte World Mall is a separate complex that is partially connected to the tower. The mall is a one-stop shopping center that aspires to provide unprecedented services to its patrons – and succeeds: Lotte has placed all of its shopping and entertainment branches in the building, from the Lotte Cinema for cinephiles and the Lotte Duty Free Shop for traveling shoppers to the Lotte World Aquarium for families with children and Avenuel for shoppers looking for luxury goods. In total, nearly one thousand brands are available within the well-designed shopping complex.

FYI> T. 02-411-510, www.lwt.co.kr

EAT> Australian restaurant Bills (T. 02-3213-4185) offers the best scrambled eggs and hotcakes. For something more Korean, stop by Nonhyun Samgaetang (T. 02-3213-4537), a restaurant specializing in ginseng chicken soup with 20 years of tradition and fame in Gangnam. Be sure to check out Ogada (T. 02-3213-4527) on the seventh floor to try some medicinal herbal teas that are not only pleasing to the senses but will also give you an energy boost while you shop.

DO> If you’ve been living in Korea for a while and miss your favorite brands from back home, look no further: Lotte World Mall has many international vendors including the Gap, Banana Republic and Toys ‘R’ Us. If you’re interested to get in on the global fascination with Korean cosmetic brands, Avenuel carries popular options such as Nature Republic, Missha and Innisfree. For the Hallyu fans in your group, visit IKON (T. 02-3213-4427), which sells various products related to K-pop and K-dramas. Diligent shoppers can even receive a tax refund for foreign tourists on the sixth floor at the Avenuel Service Lounge

(T. 02-3213-2603).

GO> Jamsil Station 잠실역 (Line 2 or 8), Exit 1 or 11.

One of the best ways to escape winter’s biting cold is to steep into a nice, hot Jacuzzi or bask in the steaming solace of a luxurious sauna.

››› Here are three of the best escapes you can reach by subway: 

The Banyan Tree Club and Spa Seoul

One of the city’s most luxurious hotels, their indoor pool is neatly partitioned into areas for adults and children and toddlers. On-site swimming classes are available, as well as free aquarobic lessons. The deck is equipped with beds and Jacuzzis for relaxing after a refreshing dip. Saunas are divided into wet and dry, and also include sleeping/resting rooms for both men and women.

FYI> T. 02-2250-8000, www.banyantreeclub.com

EAT> The hotel features a few different restaurants, including the Festa Bistro and Bar (T. 02-2250-8170, 8080), which serves delectable European-style cuisine, but you won’t find anything cheap here. Off-site, Myeong-dong Gyoja (T. 02-776-5348) specializes in dumplings and kalguksu, or hand-cut noodles in a mild broth.

GO> Dongguk University Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Take bus No. 02, 03 or 05 and get off at the National Theater of Korea.

Dragon Hill Spa

This location offers an almost overwhelming selection of saunas, with each and every one heated using traditional techniques. In addition to an open-air and seawater bath, there is also a salt room and an indoor swimming pool, as well as massage programs and a fitness center. The spa’s main hall was designed to be especially luxurious, boasting royally inspired Chinese-style aesthetics.

FYI> T. 02-792-0001, www.dragonhillspa.com

EAT> Bulgogi Brothers (T. 02-2012-0674) in IPark Mall offers all your barbecue favorites. For more old-school flavor, try Hong Don (T. 02-706-0916).

GO>  Yongsan Station 용산역 (Line 1 or Gyeonghui Line), Exit 1

Spa Lei

This spa is for ladies only. Modeled after the architecture of traditional spas in Hungary, Spa Lei offers anything and everything that’s known for beautifying both your skin and your soul: mud baths, exfoliation procedures, specialized massages and more.

FYI> T. 02-545-4002, www.spalei.co.kr

EAT> Try Pan Asia (T. 02-541-7940) in the Garosu-gil area for some delightful Southeast Asian cuisine.

GO> Sinsa Station 신사역 (Line 3), Exit 5

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Times Square 타임스퀘어

A true one-stop shop

In Seoul, Times Square is the name of a giant shopping complex in the Yeongdeongpo area. It has seen continually increasing foot traffic since opening in 2009, and has already established itself as a major landmark of western Seoul. In addition to offering a great selection of shops and restaurants, Times Square is connected to branches of Shinsegae Department Store and Emart, making it the ultimate one-stop shop. It also has a CGV theater, and hosts musical performances by local artists year-round.

FYI> T. 02-2638-2000, www.timessquare.co.kr

EAT> Times Square is home to several restaurants, but Hanilgwan (T. 02-2638-2735) is among the best of them. Specializing in classic Korean cuisine that’s always done the right way, using fresh ingredients. The quality of their bibimbap goes far beyond what is normally offered, as does that of their naengmyeon, or buckwheat noodles served in a chilled broth. For a good Western-style buffet, Seven Springs (T. 02-2638-2638) has one of the best selections around.

GO> Yeongdeungpo Station 영등포역 (Line 1). Upon exiting the station, follow the signs to Times Square using the underground passage.

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Seoul Cinemas 서울의 아트하우스 영화관  

Movies are a good way to have fun while staying inside where it’s warm. Here are three of Seoul’s more unique cinemas:

Art Sonje Center

Built in 1998, Art Sonje Center is not only a theater that regularly screens independent and non-mainstream films but is also a private art museum that holds a variety of exhibitions. It also holds a number of dance and music performances throughout the year, making it the ultimate cultural complex.

EAT> Try some hotteok, a sweet, dessert-style pancake that’s usually filled with honey, cinnamon and chopped peanuts. It’s Korea’s quintessential winter snack. Samcheong Hotteok (T. 02-732-0420) is a local hub for this treat.

GO> Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 1. Walk towards Gyeongbokgung Palace and turn right at Poongmoon Girl’s High school. Go straight towards Jeongdok Library, and you should see the theater on your left.

FYI> T. 02-733-8945, artsonje.org

Spongehouse Gwanghwamun

Resembling a coffee shop with glass walls more than it does a theater, Spongehouse Gwanghwamun is unique in that it sells alcoholic beverages that patrons can take into the theater. Run by a distributor that calls itself Sponge, this theater specializes in imported Japanese films and holds an annual Japanese Indie Film Fesitval.

EAT> Seoul Finance Center is nearby, and their basement is filled with high-class restaurants like Butcher’s Cut (T. 02-318-0973), one of the city’s finest steak houses.

GO> Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 5. The theater is on the first floor of the C-Square Building, behind the Koreana Hotel.

FYI> T. 02-2285-2095

Cinecube

Cinecube is the perfect place if you can’t stand all those people who walk into movies late. Plan on being punctual at Cinecube, for they prohibit entry 10 minutes after a screening starts. Aside from an eclectic selection of titles that span all genres, the space itself is full of architectural delights, such as its “sunken garden,” a place to relax, or the many curious sculptures that enliven the interior.

EAT> Grab some dimsum at Quanxi (T. 02-723-8815). If you’re ravenous, Om (T. 02-723-4848) offers a delicious selection of hearty Indian food.

GO> Gwanghwamung Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 6. Walk straight for a few blocks until you see the Geumho Asiana Building. Cinecube is in the first building afterwards on your left. Look for a sculpture of a man hammering something.

FYI> T. 02-2002-7770, www.icinecube.com

Changdeokgung Palace 창덕궁

The smaller, quieter, more beautiful palace

Gyeongbokgung is definitely Seoul’s largest palace, and certainly the most famous among both tourists and locals alike. Many don’t know, however, that Gyeongbokgung Palace was left in ruins for nearly 300 years. After it was burned down during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, restoration efforts didn’t begin until 1867, under the regent Heungseon Daewongun (1820-1898). For this reason, the official royal residence for most Joseon kings was actually Changdeokgung. With architecture that is commonly lauded for being rather sublime, Changdeokgung was constructed to conform to its natural environment instead of imposing itself upon its surroundings. The structure’s design and beauty played a big role in earning the palace a registration as part of UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1997.

T. 02-762-8261, www.cdg.go.kr

Sick of Korean food? Try grabbing some delicious burgers at Farmer’s Barn (T. 02-743-9233), one of Seoul’s better burger chains. Don’t worry, they use fresh ingredients, and their buns don’t taste like they have a shelf-life of a Twinkie. If you are in the mood for Korean, try Bukchon Myeonok (T. 02-742-9997).

Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 3. Walk straight and turn left after the Hyundai building. You should see the palace on your right.

Sledding in Seoul Land 서울랜드

Rediscover your inner child

If you’re adventurous and are willing to endure the biting cold, head to Seoul Land – not for the rides, but for the sledding. They have a miniature lift so you can get to the top of the hill as quickly as possible. Be prepared to encounter a lot of couples. Sledding facilities are usually open until late February, depending on conditions.

FYI> T. 02-509-6000, www.seoulland.co.kr

KRW 5,000

EAT> Try heading to the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Gwacheon Branch, where the food is better than what the amusement park has to offer. Lounge D (T. 02-504-3931) serves decent pizza and pasta.

GO> Seoul Grand Park Station 대공원역 (Line 4), Exit 2. Walk straight out and follow the signs to Seoul Land.

The Samsung COEX Mall shouldn’t be anything new to those familiar with Seoul: the giant underground shopping complex is a futuristic plaza of shops, restaurants, a movie theater and much more—not to mention it connects directly with Hyundai Department Store next door. But have you visited the aquarium on its premises? It has a collection of 40,000 sea creatures comprising over 650 different species that are housed in an underground ocean of over 3,000 tons of water. Sharks, stingrays, turtles—even penguins: it pretty much has anything you’d expect from a major aquarium. In case you’re picturing the average penguin, these penguins are Humboldt penguins, normally found only in Chile and Peru. The entire facility is designed around the theme of “Water Journey,“ meaning every room and exhibition is part of a grander experience that takes you around the world. Upon entering, visitors witness the wonders of the Andean Mountains, venture through the Amazon and trek through a variety of rivers, swamps and seashores before finally being released into the uncharted depths of the world’s deep oceans.

The aquarium is divided into 90 tanks grouped into different themes, or “discovery zones.“ Every exhibit features tanks that allow visitors to view fish species that are indigenous to the respective theme’s location. There is also appropriate plant life and vegetation for each “area“ as well. The themed areas visitors will experience go in the following order: Incan Empire, Amazonian World, the Seven Seas, Ocean Kingdom, Marine Touch and Undersea Tunnel. The Undersea Tunnel is a moving walkway that moves through the heart of the aquarium, surrounding visitors on all sides with sharks and gigantic rays, lending a sense of immersion. There is also the Kid’s Aquarium, where children can touch various sea creatures, even gecko lizards, while learning fun facts about the sea. There are also programs that allow visitors to feed sharks, penguins and otters. For those that want something more unique, the aquarium’s Wonderland features fish living in the most unlikely of environments, including a toilet bowl and a shower-cubicle tank. Aren’t you curious to see what that looks like?

For visitors that want a quick clean-up after everything’s over, they can relax with the Doctor Fish experience, where fish nibble off your dead skin, perhaps one of the mostly tingly and strangest sensations you’ll ever experience.

For those seeking to throw a special event—be it a company gathering or a private party, even weddings—why not hold it in a place where you can watch 20,000 fish swimming together in perfect unison? COEX Aquarium’s event hall can make it happen.

FYI> T. 02-6002-6200, www.coexaqua.com (Korean); open from 10:00 to 20:00.

BUY> Souvenirs are plentiful. If that’s not enough, remember: you’re inside a gigantic underground mall.

SEE> Try the Doctor Fish experience, where tiny fish clean your feet by nibbling off your dead skin.

GO> Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), Exit 5 of 6; COEX Mall connects directly to the station.

Soaked Summer: 2014 Sinchon Water Gun Festival 신촌물총페스티벌
July 26–27, 13:00–20:00

In case you missed the first ever Water Gun Festival in Sinchon last year, fortune is rewarding you with a second chance in 2014. Be prepared to get shot at by every variety and size of water gun imaginable. Originally posted as a random idea on Facebook, the festival quickly flared into a real-life event. The entire Sinchon area will be closed off for the festival, so don’t venture beyond the festival lines unless you are geared up to participate. Festival operators offer sales on water guns and plastic storage bags for electronic devices and towels. Dressing rooms are provided so you can change into something dry when you’ve had enough. For added fun, the festival will feature performances from local artists. There will also be contests, such as the “best-dressed” competition. Need more? How about firemen shooting at you from their fire engine to make sure absolutely everybody gets wet? Official admission wristbands are necessary, so be sure to register beforehand.

EAT> Get some Indian food just outside the festival borders at Jyoti Restaurant (T. 02-703-3535). For some student fare, feast on unique tteokbokki dishes at Uncle’s (T. 02-323-8186).

BUY> Hyundai Uplex Mall (T. 02-3145-2233) is a popular shopping site among the local student population.

SEE> Be sure to check out the performances lined up for the festival. Also, keep an eye out for the firemen!

FYI> T.010-4402-9016, moounga121@gmail.com, www.facebook.com/watergunfesta

GO> Sinchon Station 신촌역 (Line 2), Exit 2 or 3

Pocket of Peace: Baeksasil Valley  백사실계곡

Seoul is a great city for unexpected pockets and crannies that feel completely disconnected from the hustle and bustle of its downtown areas. Snug in a corner of Buam-dong, Baeksasil Valley is a scenic nook in the city that feels like the countryside. With a name that literally means “mountain valley surrounded by streams,” it’s sure to relax your tired city-slicker bones. Perhaps that’s why it served as a getaway for nobles during the Joseon Dynasty; many of them built gardens and second homes here. Yet there is a reason why it feels secluded from the city—because it is. Don’t expect a serene walk to get here; be prepared to hike. The hills you’re required to conquer are some of the steepest in the city, and you’ll find yourself looking at some of the parked cars while wondering how they manage to stay in place. But don’t be discouraged! The excruciating walk is not without its rewards. The neighborhood you’ll pass through is quiet and quaint, a secret little village, seemingly hidden from the outside world. If you have any trouble finding the entrance to the valley, just ask any of the locals and they’ll gladly point you in the right direction: up. Upon reaching the entrance, you’ll find a wooden staircase that gently guides your tired muscles into a peaceful stroll through an ancient Joseon garden. Aside from the mountain scenery, the area also offers a temple, a chance to view salamanders and a fantastic view of the city.

 EAT> For some of the best dumplings in town, try Jaha Son Mandoo (T. 02-379-2648)

SEE> Keep an eye out for streams, and see how many you can spot.

GO> Take a bus from Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station 경복궁역 (Line 3) and take a bus (7212, 1020, 7022) to Buam-dong Residents Center.

For the Sporty Types: Ichon Hangang Park  이촌 한강공원

The Hangang River has several parks lining its shores, with Yeouido being one of the most well-known. Ichon Hangang Park is conveniently located next to the National Museum of Korea and tends to be a little more relaxed than the busier parks. A favorite location for walking and jogging, it’s known for its plethora of gorgeous flowers that change delightfully with the seasons. Like any great Korean park, there’s truly something for everyone in the family: the X-Game center is a skateboarder’s paradise; the inline skating rink brings you back to your childhood’s playful days; and the adventurous can opt to go rafting along the Hangang River, available from April to October every other Sunday for a low fee of KRW 4,000. For the athletes, there is a type of space for virtually any sport involving a ball: a basketball court, tennis court, soccer field, and even a field for gateball, a game similar to croquet that was invented in Japan during the immediate post-war era. A truly unique feature is the nearby Nodeulseom, an artificial island with a beehive that’s run by a group of urban beekeepers.

 EAT> Nodeul Evening Café (T. 02-790-0520) offers a nice cup and snack, along with a great view of river sunsets.

SEE> The area is near some of the city’s most historic bridges. The National Museum of Korea is also nearby.

FYI> T. 02-1330, 02-3780-0551, hangang.seoul.go.kr/park_yeechon

GO> Ichon Station (Line 1 or 4), Exit 4. Walk 500 meters to the park.

Take a Dip, Then a Drink: Banyan Tree Pools 반얀트리 수영장

The Banyan Tree Club and Spa Seoul offers the perfect getaway experience without having to leave the city. Snugly nestled into its own serene enclave in Mt. Namsan, the resort offers the quiet and relaxation you need while still granting you quick access to the lights, shopping and excitement of areas like Myeongdong and Dongdaemun. Since it’s summer and as hot as ever, try one of their three pools—that’s right, three. You can warm up in their main indoor pool—temperature-controlled and perfect for rigorous laps and loosening up those muscles that have stiffened over the office-toiling years. Once you’ve thoroughly exhausted yourself, perhaps feeling fit enough for the Olympics, waddle over to the separate adult relaxation pool, a quiet tub set aside for those desiring a calm dip without hoards of screaming children running around with miniature life tubes. Swimming lessons and aqua-aerobics are also available for interested parties. Worried about the kids? No problem, they have two mini pools designed specifically for children. Once you’re tired of being stuffed behind walls, head to their outdoor pool, also known as the The Oasis. Partnered with a poolside bar, The Oasis is often used for private parties and lavished with a sense of playful decadence, catering perfectly to your playful mood.

EAT> Like The Oasis Swimming Pool? Try The Oasis Restaurant!

BUY> A membership is worth considering if you plan on frequent return visits.

SEE> In a cultural mood? The National Theater of Korea is right next door.

FYI> T. 02-2250-8000, www.banyantreeclub.net

GO> Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Line 3 or 4), Exit 2. Take bus #2.