Hop on Jongno Bus 11 and explore the heart of old Seoul[/box_light]

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

The little green Jongno 11 bus is more than just a good way to get from Gwanghwamun to Seoul Station. By an accident of transportation planning, it’s a veritable sightseeing bus that takes you through the very heart of old Hanseong, as Seoul was called when it was the royal capital of the Joseon Dynasty. Plenty has changed over the last century, of course, but the coexistence of the old and new is what gives Seoul its characteristic tension and charm.

Palatial Surroundings

Founded in 1940, Samcheong Park is one of Seoul’s oldest public parks. It’s a pleasantly shady spot with benches, walking paths and other common park amenities. It’s also connected to a number of hiking paths, including the Seoul Fortress Wall Hiking Trail. Be sure to drop by the charming Samcheong Forest Library, an old snack shop that has been renovated into a place of reading. Cultural programs conducted on a “talent donation” basis are held here, too.

Walk down from Samcheong Park and you’ll come to Samcheong-dong, a cozy stretch of boutiques, eateries and cafes that retains much of its laid-back charm despite swarms of tourists on the weekend. Military history buffs will want to see the Beonsachang, an old armory built in 1884 as Korea was attempting to modernize its military. It’s on the grounds of the Korea Banking Institute.

Follow Samcheong-dong Road until you reach the eastern wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace. The history of Seoul’s oldest palace is almost a microcosm of Korea’s dramatic past: it was founded in 1395, burnt to the ground during the Japanese invasion of 1592, rebuilt in 1867, and then almost completely destroyed again by the Japanese colonial government in the early 20th century. Much of what you see today is a post-war reconstruction, although some of the grander structures like the main throne hall and the stunning Gyeonghoeru Pavilion date from the 1867 reconstruction. A particularly scenic spot is the Hyangwonji Pond at the northern end of the palace—note how the pavilion harmonizes with the mountains in the distance.

Gyeongbokgung Palace is also home to two museums of note. The National Folk Museum of Korea is home to 4,000 artifacts detailing the daily life of Koreans past. The National Palace Museum of Korea, meanwhile, holds artifacts from Seoul’s royal palaces and is an especially good place to learn about the lives of Korea’s royalty.

Road of the Six Ministries

The front gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Gwanghwamun Gate, has had as tumultuous a past as the palace itself. In 1926, the gate was moved to the east side of the palace by the Japanese to make way for the massive Government-General Building (torn down in 1996). The gate was returned to its original location, more or less, in 1963, but the restoration used concrete instead of wood. A proper restoration began in 2006 and was completed in 2010.

Connecting Gwanghwamun with the Sejong-ro Intersection is Sejong-ro, a wide boulevard lined by some of the country’s most important political, economic, diplomatic and media institutions. This concentration of power has been a feature of the road going back to the Joseon Dynasty, when it was called Yukjogeori (“Six Ministries Road”) since it was lined by, as the name would suggest, six royal ministries.

Sejong-ro was originally 16 lanes wide, but in 2009 it was reduced to 10 to make way for Gwanghwamun Plaza, a pedestrian space that stretches down the middle of the road for almost its entire length. The plaza is home to two prominent statues. Now surrounded by fountains, the statue to Korean naval hero Yi Sun-sin has been a Seoul landmark since 1968. To the north is a statue of a seated King Sejong the Great, the lauded 15th century monarch whose long list of accomplishments includes the invention of the Korean script, Hangeul. Behind the statue is the entrance to the Story of King Sejong Exhibition Hall, a museum where you can learn about one of the greatest figures in Korean history.

Flanking Gwanghwamun Plaza to the west is the massive Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, one of Korea’s leading cultural spaces. To the east, meanwhile, is the Olleh Square Dream Hall, where you can take in jazz performances on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights for just KRW 1,000 a ticket. Also on the east side of the plaza is Kyobo Bookstore, Korea’s largest and most famous bookstore, with an extensive foreign-language collection. Just in front of Kyobo is the Bigak, a Korean-style pavilion erected in 1902 to commemorate the 40th anniversary of King Gojong’s reign.

Where You Can Find Anything Under the Sun

Keep moving south and you’ll come to Ilmin Art Museum, housed in the historic former headquarters of the Dong-A Ilbo newspaper, and Cheonggyecheon Plaza, where the Cheonggyecheon Stream begins. In the old days, when Mt. Namsan marked the southern limit of the capital, the Cheonggyecheon was the largest, most important waterway in the city. After the Korean War, shantytowns built by refugees lined its banks, and it became an open sewer. Over a period of 20 years beginning in 1958, the stream was covered with concrete, over which an elevated highway was built. In 2003, however, work began to tear down the highway and restore the stream. The restored waterway was opened to the public in 2005, providing Seoulites with a much-needed urban oasis.

From Cheonggyecheon Plaza, keep following the main road south until you reach Seoul City Hall and Seoul Plaza. The wave-shaped glass structure is the new city hall, while the historic structure to its left is the old city hall, now used as a public library. On the top floor of the library is a museum, café and a rooftop garden.

A short walk south of Seoul City Hall brings you to Sungnyemun Gate, also known as Namdaemun Gate, the historic southern entrance to Seoul. First erected in 1398, the gate enjoyed a remarkably good run until 2008, when the wooden superstructure was largely destroyed in an arson attack. The gate was reopened in 2013 following a massive restoration project that not only repaired the fire damage but also rebuilt sections of Seoul’s old city walls that were demolished by the Japanese colonial authorities in the early 20th century. The beautiful gate, surrounded by glass and steel skyscrapers, is a great representation of Seoul’s dynamic harmony of old and new.

 Behind the gate is Namdaemun Market, one of Korea’s two largest outdoor markets. While there’s been a market in the area since 1414, the market really came into its own in the 20th century, especially after the Korean War. The sprawling market sells pretty much anything under the sun, or as local merchants put it, “We’ve got everything except nuclear weapons and tanks.” The market is particularly known for its cheap clothing, ginseng and seaweed (particularly popular with Japanese and Chinese tourists) and cheap optical wear.

The end of the Jongno Bus 11 line is Seoul Station, one of Korea’s busiest transportation hubs. It can be good fun to stand on the second floor concourse and watch the waves of people below. Next to the new station is the beautiful old station, easily recognized by its Byzantine dome. Completed in 1925, the station is now a cultural space called Culture Seoul Station 284.

Pleasant leisure space offers views, history[/box_dark]

Ichon Hangang Park is located on the north side of the Hangang River between Jungnangcheongyo Bridge and Wonhyodaegyo Bridge. Following the riverside, it’s a favorite location for walking and jogging thanks to its beautiful flowers— depending on the season, you might see reeds or cosmos flowers. You’ll find plenty of leisure and sports facilities here, too, including an X-Game center for skateboarders, an internationalsized inline skating rink, a basketball court, a tennis court, and even a field for gateball, an unusual team sport similar to croquet invented in Japan in the immediate post-war era.

One activity in which you can partake at Ichon Hangang Park is rafting across the Hangang River. This is a popular team building activity for schools and workplaces, but individuals can give it a try, too. The river-crossing program runs April to October—resting every other Sunday—for a participation fee of KRW 4,000 per person. There’s a Nature Experience Center, too, where the many trees, flowers, and plants of Korea’s mountains, fields, and farming villages have been planted to recreate a pastoral landscape. The scenery is made all the more beautiful by nearby Nodeulseom, a semi-pastoral artificial island built in the early 20th century as part of the construction of Hangangdaegyo Bridge. The island is home to an urban farm that local families can use for free; it’s also home to a beehive run by a group of urban beekeepers.

Over Ichon Hangang Park are some of Korea’s most historic bridges. The oldest of the bridges is Hangang Railway Bridge A, completed in 1900 and still very much in use. It was the first fixed bridge to span the Hangang River. Next to it are three other railway bridges built in 1912, 1944, and 1995. Just as historic is Hangangdaegyo Bridge, a car crossing built in 1937. The Hangangdaegyo Bridge was also the site of one of modern Korea’s worst tragedies: in the opening days of the Korean War, the bridge—still packed with refugees and retreating soldiers— was prematurely demolished by the panicked authorities to prevent the North Koreans from crossing the river, killing hundreds of refugees in the process.

Those looking for views can visit the Hangangdaegyo’s two scenic cafés, Café Nodeul (north end) and Café Rio (south end). The former is more of a bar, while the latter is more of a traditional café. Café Nodeul’s views of the sun setting over the Hangang River and the skyscrapers of Yeouido are not to be missed.

FYI>
(302-17 Ichon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울시 용산구 이촌동 302-17)
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Ichon Station (Line 1 and 4), Exit 4. Walk 500 m to the park.

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JEON TAE-IL BRIDGE | 전태일다리(버들다리)
Historic site pays tribute to young man who sacrificed himself for a better future

Translated by David Carruth

Jeon Tae-il became a bridge that brings people together. His name is now being used as a second name for Beodeuldari Bridge on the Cheonggyecheon Stream. On Nov 1, 2012, Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon took part in the christening ceremony organized by the Jeon Tae-il Foundation for the Jeon Tae-il Bridge.

On the Jeon Tae-il Bridge is a bust that commemorates the martyr and his goal. In 2005, the Jeon Tae-il Foundation erected the bust in his memory. Since there are also several hundred commemorative copper plaques on the ground around the bridge, people started referring to Beodeuldari Bridge as “Jeon Tae-il Bridge.” The official name of the bridge remained Beodeuldari Bridge, however. The Jeon Tae-il Foundation asked Seoul to give the bridge the additional name of “Jeon Tae-il Bridge,” but the city at first did not accept that request. Finally, in August 2012, the Seoul City Geographical Naming Committee resolved to also refer to the Beodeuldari Bridge as the Jeon Tae-il Bridge.

“This event is only held once, but I believe our efforts should not stop here. Rather, we should find the meaning of the Jeon Tae-il Bridge for our own generation,” said Mayor Park Wonsoon. “I will work to build a world that is worthy of the name, a world in which the dream of Jeon Tae-il lives on.”

Jeon Tae-il worked in a sewing factory in Pyeonghwa Market in the 1960s. He was striving to gain recognition for the rights of workers when he set himself ablaze and died from the burns. Jeon dedicated himself to the cause of the rights of workers. He had a major influence on the development of the labor movement and democratization in South Korea. In fact, it is even said that, had it not been for Jeon, the rights of Korean workers would have not have been guaranteed for dozens of years.

Jeon’s mother, Lee So-seon, made the following remarks about her son: “Tae-il was a really good person. I mean, he really loved the other workers. That’s why I wish he were called a ‘companion’ instead of a ‘patriot’ or an ‘activist.’ Tae-il is still a companion for workers today. Please let them know I want them to call him that. Tae-il really liked me. See this clothing? I still can’t get rid of it, and I pull it out every winter to wear it. This is long underwear that Tae-il made for me with his own hands using leftover cloth from the factory. Even if someone were to buy me new clothing to wear, I would still wear only this. That’s the kind of person Tae-il was.”

After her son’s death, Lee became a second mother for workers and took care of many people. Her life came to an end on Sept 3, 2011. The work that she did made her absence at the naming ceremony for Jeon Tae-il Bridge all the more poignant.

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Dongdaemun Station 동대문역 (Line 1, 4), Exit 9
(Jongno 5-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoulㅣ서울특별시 종로구 종로5가)

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