Just experimenting with timelapse photography above Seoul’s landmark Sungnyemun Gate.

Sungnyemun Gate Timelapse from Robert Koehler on Vimeo.

Taking a cruise is a great way to enjoy the fresh air and get away from it all. Enjoy spectacular nighttime views of the Hangang River on themed cruises with live magic and delicious food. There are also seasonal events, including a flower cruise in spring and a migratory bird cruise in autumn. Several boats ply the waters of the Hangang River, making one-way or round-trip tours. There are three major places to get on or off the ferries: the Yeouido, Jamsil, and Ttukseom docks. Tickets cost KRW 13,000.

EAT>
Buffet programs cost KRW 65,000 for dinner and KRW 35,900 for lunch.

SEE>
Riverside landmarks include Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Shrine, the 63 City Building, N Seoul Tower, Seoul Forest, Seonyudo Island Park, and the 1988 Olympic Stadium.

FYI>
T. 02-3271-6900, www.elandcruise.com

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Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Jamsilnaru Station 잠실나루역 (Line 2), and Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7)

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크게 보기잠실나루역

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Spring by the Hangang River | 한강

A day following the lazy river at the heart of a workaholic city

Written by Ben Jackson
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

After spending its youth trickling and splashing through the mountains of Gangwon-do, the Hangang River enters Seoul as a fat, sedate, and middle-aged waterway, its lack of pace furthered by a variety of man-made interventions. Series of parks on each bank guide the Hangang through the city, punctuated by bridges, resorts, and marinas and linked by a network of walking and bicycle paths.

When the warm spring weather sets in, Seoulites hit the riverbanks with characteristic vigor, charging along the bike paths (you’ll even see the occasional chalk outline), power-walking off calories, skating, walking dogs, flying kites, eating, drinking and sleeping. Spending a day following the Hangang as it flows from east to west is a great way to discover Seoul from another angle while getting some hard-earned fresh air and exercise.

©Sungjin Kim

Located on the north bank of the river, this spot is easily reached from Exits 2 and 3 of Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7), making it a good place to start a day’s journey. There’s plenty to do here, including hiring “duck boats” for a 40-minute jaunt on the river (KRW 15,000/23,000 for pedal-powered/automatic), waterskiing and windsurfing (call T. 02-1330 for information), or relaxing on the embankments with snacks from one of the nearby convenience stores. Also worth a look is the Jabeolle (J-Bug) cultural complex, a raised, tubular structure whose innards are comprised of a gallery, cafés, a restaurant, and a gift shop; it offers a great view across the river.

A couple of kilometers west along the riverbank lies Seoul Forest, one of the capital’s major green areas. Designed with the aim of creating a local equivalent of New York’s Central Park, Seoul Forest is a combination of trees, lawns, gardens, greenhouses, a butterfly house, lakes, and more. It even has a deer garden, with deer feeding opportunities on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons at 2pm and 3:30pm (reserve by calling T. 02-460-2987; Korean). There are cafés and convenience stores in the forest itself and a collection of restaurants and cafés on the lower floors of the two giant green apartment blocks nearby.

Another five kilometers west stands Seoul’s only “double deck” bridge: while Banpo Bridge carries most traffic above the river, like the Hangang’s other bridges, the Jamsu Bridge—directly beneath it—lies barely a few meters above the water level, making it an ideal point to cross the river from north to south along dedicated bicycle lanes (though crossing the river at other bridges is possible, too, thanks to various staircases, ramps, and elevators). On the way here, shortly after Seoul Forest and the mouth of Jungnangcheon Stream, is Mt. Eungbongsan, a favorite spot for photographers in search of the perfect shot of the cityscape.

Yeouido Floating Stage

From the southern terminus of Jamsu Bridge, it’s a 6.5-kilometer journey west to the island of Yeouido. The journey takes in Banpo Hangang Park, as well as a possible short diversion to Seoul National Cemetery, a large complex containing the resting places of some of the country’s greatest heroes and most controversial figures.

Yeouido itself is full of things to see. Surrounded by bike trails, it is lined by Yeouido Hangang Park on the northern bank and Yeouido Saetgang Ecological Park to the southeast, a lush complex of wetlands, trees, and undergrowth crisscrossed with walking and bicycle paths as well as raised walkways and a very distinctive pedestrian bridge. Beyond Wonhyo Bridge are a couple of floating cruise terminals with a buffet restaurant, café, and fast food joint.

Further west, another large park crosses Yeouido at its center, and at its southern side stands IFC Mall, one of the newest additions to Seoul’s rapidly growing mall collection. Drop in here for food or a coffee, or even to watch a film at the CGV multiplex cinema on Level 3. The western tip of Yeouido is home to Korea’s National Assembly building and Yeouiseo-ro, a curved street lined with cherry trees. It’s also the location of Seoul Marina, which offers cruise yacht rides from KRW 15,000 per person, per hour. (Seoul Marina stated that this price may be amended in late April. Reservations must be made online at www.seoul-marina.com [Korean] at least three days in advance. Seats may be obtained, if still available, by those turning up on the day of without a reservation: departures are at 3pm, 5pm, 6:30pm, and 8pm on weekdays, with an extra 1pm sailing on weekends.)

By the northeastern bank floats Paradise, a restaurant serving fairly pricey Western-style dishes, alcoholic beverages, tea, and coffee. Paradise also has a collection of duck-shaped paddle boats, rowing boats, and motorboats for messing about on the water.

FYI>
T. 02-447-3333
www.hankangwedding.co.kr (Korean)
(86 Yeouido dong, Yeongdeungpo Gu, Seoulㅣ서울시 영등포구 여의도동 86)

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Rainbow Bridge, Seonyudo Park

A short distance west of Yeouido is Seonyudo Park, an attractive complex set on the island of the same name. Seonyudo Park is famous for its innovative design, which makes extensive use of the giant concrete tanks, walkways, baths, and other structures remaining from the water treatment facility previously located there. The park comes to life from late spring onward and makes an impression on most visitors.

Yanghwa Bridge offers a good way to cross the river again, back to its northern bank. From here, the journey continues west to the enormous World Cup Park complex. If you’re hungry again, the World Cup stadium itself is home to several eateries. If not, make your way around the network of walking and cycling trails around the complex. Haneul Park is a high hill that offers great views across the western part of the capital and of the setting sun. Crowned with fields of reeds dotted with sculpture-like structures, it makes for an atmospheric end to the day. Nanji Hangang Park contains a variety of sports fields and a camping ground, which can be used for daytime picnics and barbecues (KRW 3,750) or camping at night in a variety of tents (reservation needed; call T. 02-304-0061; Korean). Noeul Park is a wide, grassy area that also boasts a golf course, while Nanjicheon Park features as its centerpiece a successfully restored stream, once heavily polluted but now a haven for local wildlife.

Seonyudo Park©Robert Koehler

Other options

The route above, from Ttukseom Resort to Nanji Hangang Park, is around 25 km long. If you’ve blasted your way through it in a couple of hours and are not even ready for lunch, there are various other options available. Heading back along the southern bank and continuing from Yeouido all the way to Amsa-dong, near the 1988 Olympics complex, is one 25-kilometer possibility; others include following bike paths up the various streams that flow into the Hangang: Jungnangcheon (near Seoul Forest) and Hongjecheon (just east of Nanji Hangang Park) Streams on the northern bank and Anyangcheon (3 km west of the southern terminus of Yanghwa Bridge) and Tancheon/Yangjaecheon (slightly east of Ttukseom Resort; cross the river via Yeongdong Bridge) Streams on the southern bank.

The Korea Tourism Organization recommends several other routes: go to http://english.visitkorea.or.kr and search under “Recommended Bicycle Trails in Seoul.”

Seoul Metropolitan Government’s cycling page (http://bike.seoul.go.kr) is in Korean, but has a useful map: click on 자전거지도 on the red navigation menu and you’ll be shown the cycle trails around the city (red lines are dedicated cycle routes, green are shared with pedestrians).

More information

The route described above covers a fair distance in central Seoul, but for more information on any of the places it passes through, see the Korea Tourism Organization website (http://english.visitkorea.or.kr) or call the Korea Travel Hotline at T. 02-1330.

Bicycles can be hired from 12 locations along the northern and southern banks of the Hangang, including Ttukseom Resort, the southern terminus of Banpo/Jamsu Bridge, two locations on Yeouido, and Nanji Hangang Riverside Park. Recent reports indicate that managers are reluctant to let bikes rented at one location be dropped off at another on weekends: this may change if Seoul authorities decide to intervene. Rentals cost KRW 3,000 per hour. Check the brakes, chain, and other basic parts of the bike before you set off!

The banks of the Hangang are highly exposed to the sun: protection is recommended.

The Lotus Lantern Festival in Seoul is an important Korean celebration held in the lead-up to Buddha’s birthday. This year it will be held the weekend of May 10–12 and feature a huge lantern parade with various traditional performances and ceremonies that you can watch or have a go at yourself.
A spectacular parade, the festival’s main attraction, will take place on Jongno on May 11, featuring a brilliant ocean of light from countless handheld lanterns and grand ornate lantern floats. Following the parade is a post-parade celebration known as Hoehyang Hanmadang. Participants and spectators come together in a spirit of dedicating one’s merits to others. Buddhist entertainers put on a show, and the audience gets into the act, dancing hand in hand.

On May 12, visitors can stroll through more than 100 booths, which will be set up along the street leading to Jogyesa Temple from Jongno. This is where you’ll be able to make your own lotus lanterns, create Buddhist art, try temple food, and strike up a conversation with a friendly monk. Some booths will be dedicated to introducing the Buddhist cultures of Tibet, Mongolia, and Southeast Asia.
Lantern exhibitions will be held at Jogyesa Temple and Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul and Bongeunsa Temple in southern Seoul. On display will be a wide selection of exquisite and meticulously crafted lanterns made of hanji, Korean traditional handmade paper. Each lantern tells its own story with its warm, cheerful light.
The grand finale of the festival features a mini lantern parade around Insa-dong accompanied by the singing and dancing of the Lotus Lantern Performance Groups.

EAT>
In commemoration of Buddha’s coming, it is worth visiting temple food restaurants in Insa-dong.

BUY>
Buddhist paraphernalia shops are lined up along Insadong-gil.

FYI>
T. 02-2011-1744, www.llf.or.kr
(45 Gyunji-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 견지동 45)

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Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6
Jonggak Station 종각역 (Line 1), Exit 1, 2, or 3
Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), Exit 6

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A reenactment of the memorial ceremony for the kings and queens of the Joseon Dynasty will take place May 5 at Jongmyo Royal Shrine. According to Confucian tradition, the royal family would perform elaborate rituals here five times each year to pay respect to their ancestors. The tradition still holds today in the form of Jongmyo Royal Shrine Ritual, which is designated as Cultural Property No. 56 in Korea and is said to be the oldest complete ceremony in the world. Jongmyo Jeryeak, the musical part of the ceremony, is produced by instruments, songs, and dances that originated over 600 years ago.

EAT>
A number of cheap eateries are lined up along the shrine compound, offering a square meal at around KRW 3,000, a great deal for the retired seniors who like to visit there.

BUY>
The Insa-dong area, a prime destination for shoppers, diners, and international tourists, is just one block west of the royal shrine.

SEE>
Jongmyo Park, right in front of Jongmyo Shrine, is a major hangout for senior citizens in Seoul and a place for them to play board games and engage in other entertainment.

FYI>
T. 02-765-0195, http://jm.cha.go.kr
(157 Jongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul ㅣ서울시 종로구 종로 157 )

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Jongno 3-ga Station 종로3가역 (Line 1, 3, 5), Exit 8 or 11

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The annual Yeouido Spring Flower Festival is set to return Apr 12–18 when 1,700 cherry trees erupt into magnificent clouds of pink. The spring’s spectacular show gets underway along the 1.7-kilometer-long street behind the National Assembly building. At night, the cherry blossoms are lit up with various colored lights. A wide range of street performances such as mime and modern dance, as well as art exhibitions, also take place.

EAT>
Street vendors will be on hand selling snack foods and beverages, and Noryangjin Fish Market is just around the corner.

BUY>
The festival site will be flooded not only with visitors but street peddlers as well.

SEE>
There are also acrobats, inline skaters, traditional Korean percussion music, and fireworks along Hangang River to round off the event.

FYI>
www.ydp.go.kr
(Yeouiseo-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul | 서울시 영등포구 여의서로)

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National Assembly Station 국회의사당역 (Line 9), Exit 1

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National Museum of Korean Contemporary History | 대한민국역사박물관

This latest addition to Korea’s national museum system pays tribute to the country’s modern history, spanning from the opening of Korea in 1876 to the present day. To be sure, it’s a dramatic history that includes the country’s colonization and independence struggle, the foundation of the Republic of Korea, the Korean War, and the country’s amazing post-war economic and political development. The museum itself is housed in the greatly remodeled old headquarters of the Ministry of Culture in Gwanghwamun, just a stone’s throw away from historic Gyeongbokgung Palace.

EAT>
The Korean eateries of Insa-dong are just a short walk away. One of this writer’s favorite restaurants, however, is Gwanghwamunjip 광화문집 (T. 02-739-7737), located across the street behind the Sejong Center of the Performing Arts. It might not look like much, but it’s got some of the best kimchijjigae (kimchi stew, 김치찌개) in the city.

BUY>
Lots of Korean gift stores and antique shops are in nearby Insa-dong. You can also pick up some smartphones and tablets just down the street at KT’s Olleh Square.

SEE>
The old changing of the guard ceremony is reenacted in front of nearby Gyeongbokgung Palace six times a day on the hour, 10am to 3pm.

FYI>
T. 02-3703-9200, www.much.go.kr
Cost: Free
(82-1 Jejong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 세종로 82-1)

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Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 2

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© Trickeye Museum

Trickeye Museum | 트릭아이미술관

Trickeye Museum offers visitors a unique opportunity to actually become a part of the art on display. Using the technique of trompe l’oeil (“deceive the eye” in French), famous works of art have been fabricated to create the optical illusion that the objects in the images on flat surfaces appear three-dimensional. Many of them have props or features added to make them more comical. You can enter the picture you used to only watch and become the subject of Renoir’s Dance at Bougival, Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, and a rather chubby replica of Michelangelo’s David. The museum is a place to have some silly juvenile fun, and perhaps learn a little bit about art. Trickeye particularly stands out in the Hongdae neighborhood, which is known for its art scene ranging from vibrant murals and street performers to a slew of interesting exhibits.

EAT>
Across the alleyway from the museum is a Korean eatery that offers bossam 보쌈, steamed pork for wrapping in lettuce, sesame leaf, or cabbage leaf. A combination of seasonings and additives, like a bean paste-based condiment, salted shrimp extract, and garlic toppings, will add extra flavor to suit your taste buds.

BUY>
On your way to the museum, you may feel tempted to pick up some of the trendiest clothes and other fashion items in town. The street leading to the museum is dotted with dozens of stores run by young entrepreneurs and amateur designers.

SEE>
The neighborhood is arguably the hottest destination in town for indie music fans, clubbers, and energetic entertainment seekers. Stick around and check out nearby art galleries, theaters, or cafés in the area until the night kicks into action.

FYI>
10am–9pm, every day Adults: 13,000 won, Youth: 11,000 won, Children (3 years old and younger): Free
T. 02-3144-6300, www.trickeye.com
(357-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul | 서울시 마포구 서교동 357-1)

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Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2, A’REX Line), Exit 9

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