Visit the locales of some of your favorite reality TV programs [/box_light]

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

While Korean soap operas and K-pop music have gotten the most attention overseas, a number of Korean variety shows such as “Running Man” (2010), “We Got Married” (2008) and “2 Days & 1 Night” (2007) have become major overseas hits, too. In this walk, we’ll visit some downtown spots that have appeared in some of your favorite variety shows. In so doing, we’ll learn a bit about the history of Seoul as well.

The Heart of Old Seoul

We begin at Gwanghwamun Square, where members of the “Running Man” team held a sports competition. Stretching from Gwanghwamun Gate, the entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace, to Gwanghwamun Intersection, the landmark plaza that opened in 2009, has been the administrative center of Korea for centuries. Just as it was during the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), it continues to be lined by important ministries and government bodies. The square is best known for its beautiful fountain, which lights up at a night, and its grand statues of Joseon war hero Yi Sun-sin and brilliant 15th century monarch King Sejong the Great. Underneath the plaza are exhibit halls dedicated to Yi and King Sejong where you can learn more about these two important historical figures.

 A short walk east from Gwanghwamun Square brings you to the entrance of artsy Insa-dong street, where you’ll find the Miss Lee Café (T. 02-739-0939), a delightfully eclectic teashop where singer/actor Jung Yong Hwa went on a date with singer Seohyun on the popular reality show “We Got Married.” Insa-dong has plenty of wonderful Korean teahouses, but this one is designed with a modern—if a bit kitsch—sensibility that makes it popular with the younger crowd. In addition to Korean teas and snacks like bingsu (shaved ice), it also serves old-school lunch boxes of the type enjoyed by the students of yesteryear.

 Stroll down Insa-dong, passing by its many galleries, craft shops and eateries, until you reach the end of the street. There you’ll see the Nagwon Arcade, Korea’s most famous musical instrument market. It’s also where the cast of “Running Man” spent an episode, well, running around. There are hundreds of shops selling all sorts of musical instruments, amps and other audio equipment on the second and third floors of the large complex, which sits atop pillars allowing traffic to pass underneath. It’s also a good place to get your instrument fixed, if need be. Film buffs will want to check out the fourth floor, where you’ll find Seoul Art Cinema as well as a theater specially designed for the elderly.

Early Modernity to the Best Views in Seoul

A 10-minute walk south from Nagwon Arcade will eventually bring you to Seoul Metropolitan Library (T. 2133-0300), a historic building finished in 1926 that for decades served as Seoul’s city hall. The “Running Man” crew also spent an episode exploring the structure. After the opening of the massive new City Hall building, located just behind it, the old building was converted into a library, which opened in 2012.

The library is home to over 200,000 books, including a sizable foreign-language section. The old mayor’s office has been preserved as a museum, and the top floor has an exhibit hall with artifacts from the building’s construction and renovation. The top floor also features a nice, cheap coffee shop and a wonderful roof garden. The grass plaza in front of the library is a popular gathering place that regularly hosts cultural events, performances and rallies.

Across the main street from the library is Deoksugung Palace and the pleasantly tranquil neighborhood of Jeong-dong, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, which appeared in the popular travel-related variety show “2 Days & 1 Night.” Along its tree-lined streets you’ll find old churches, missionary schools and diplomatic compounds, as well as the Seoul Museum of Art. To get a bird’s eye view of the neighborhood, visit Jeong-dong Observatory, a café on the 13th floor of Seoul City Hall’s Seosomun Annex.

From Jeong-dong, it’s a bit of a hike through the heart of the city until you reach the buzzing Myeong-dong district, the commercial heart of Seoul. This is where you’ll find some of Korea’s best shopping and dining opportunities. It’s also home to one of Korea’s most beautiful pieces of religious architecture, Myeong-dong Cathedral, which readers may know from an episode of “2 Days & 1 Night.” Built by French missionaries, the grand Gothic church was completed in 1898. In addition to being the mother church of Korea’s Catholic community, the cathedral was also an important place of sanctuary for activists during Korea’s democratization struggle. The cathedral has a crypt chapel holding the relics of nine martyrs, including several French priests martyred in the 19th century.

 From Myeong-dong, hop on a Mt. Namsan–bound bus and take it to N Seoul Tower, perhaps the city’s most recognized landmark. It was also a featured date location on “We Got Married.” Opened as a transmission tower in 1969, the 236.7-meter-high tower sits at the summit of 243-meter-tall Mt. Namsan, providing jaw-dropping views of the city from its observation deck. The restrooms have awe-inspiring views, too. The tower itself has several restaurants, while the plaza below it has coffee parlors, shops, viewpoints and cultural facilities. There’s also a fence covered in locks placed by visiting couples as symbols of their undying love.

[box_info]SUGGESTED ROUTE: Gwanghwamun Square (Running Man)→Miss Lee Café (“We Got Married”)→ Nagwon Arcade (“Running Man”)→Seoul Metropolitan Library (“Running Man”)→ Jeong-dong (“2 Days & 1 Night”)→ Myeong-dong Cathedral (“2 Days & 1 Night”)→ N Seoul Tower (“We Got Married”)[/box_info]

Popular Korean Variety Shows

→Running Man: Hosted by Yoo Jae-suk, this popular variety show on SBS makes guests race through urban environments as they complete tasks in well-known and lesser-known landmarks. Going strong since 2010, the show has proven so popular internationally that several overseas episodes have been filmed.

→We Got Married: Debuting in 2008, this reality show on MBC pairs up popular Korean celebrities to show what their lives would be like if they were married. There’s a Chinese version, too, and a couple of global episodes featuring entertainers from other Asian countries have also been shot.

→2 Days & 1 Night: This travel-related reality show first aired on KBS2 in 2007. Participants engage in a series of missions during trips to interesting—and often remote—locations throughout Korea.

Lose yourself in the gardens and rich history of a hidden gem [/box_light]

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Nestled away in the hills just north of Seoul’s old city wall, the charming neighbourhood of Seongbuk-dong is one of Seoul’s best kept secrets. With lovely gardens, historic homes and a rich cultural heritage, the district is an oasis of tranquility in the very heart of the city. In May, when the spring blossoms erupt and the hillsides transform into a magical tapestry of color, the neighborhood makes the perfect weekend getaway, a place to unplug and walk amidst the hues, sounds and scents of spring.

Strolling amidst history

Most visitors begin their exploration of Seongbuk-dong with a visit to the Choi Sunu House, an early 20th century hanok home hidden in an alleyway just off Seongbuk-dong’s main street. Full of flowering trees, craggy pines and well-placed masonry, the gardens are truly a delight in spring. The halls contain a few displays of items once belonging to the former owner of the home, late art historian and National Museum of Korea director Choi Sunu (1916–1984). The house is now operated by the National Trust of Korea, a civic organization dedicated to historical preservation. Entry (10:00–16:00) is free, but the home is closed on Sundays. It is also closed from December to March. On May 24 (1 PM), it will host a DJ’d discussion where participants can share their life stories through music.

On the other side of the main street from the Choi Sunu House is the site of the Seonjamdan, a Joseon Dynasty shrine where annual rites were held in honor of Leizu, the goddess of silkworms and, according to legend, the founder of sericulture. A red, wooden ceremonial gate marks the entrance to shrine site, while a raised stone altar marks the spot where the rites were held. The path leading from the gate to the altar is lined by about 50 fantastically gnarled mulberry trees.

A short walk along the main road from the Seonjamdan Shrine site brings you to the entrance of the Gansong Museum of Art, one of the world’s finest repositories of Korean traditional art. Korea’s first private art museum, it was founded in 1938 by art collector Jeon Hyeong-pil, who spent much of his private wealth to prevent foreign art collectors from pillaging Korea’s artistic treasures. The museum usually holds exhibits twice a year, in May and October, but it is currently undergoing a major renovation. Its treasures, meanwhile, are on display at the newly opened Dongdaemun Design Plaza (see p. 10).

Teahouses, patriots and fortress walls

Continuing along the main road will bring you to the Seongbuk Museum of Art, a landmark where you’ll also find the Seongbuk Global Village Center on the first floor. Hidden in a clump of trees next door, however, is the traditional teahouse Suyeon Sanbang. This exquisite turn-of-the-20th-century hanok house was the home of Yi Tae-jun (1904–circa 1970), one of Korea’s first modern novelists. The house, designed by Yi himself, has been perfectly preserved by his descendants. If you’re lucky, you might get a seat in the house’s elevated wing, with views of the courtyard garden. It can get quite busy on weekends, but on a quiet weekday, there may be no finer place in the land to enjoy a cup of tea.

Keep heading up the main road, and on the left side you’ll spot a hillside path with steps leading to the Simujang, the home of Buddhist monk, poet and independence activist Han Yong-un (1879–1944). Han moved to this secluded spot not long after getting out of Seodaemun Prison, where he did a three-year stint for his leading role in the March 1 Independence Movement of 1919. It’s a simple hanok house, but one shaded by a giant ancient pine at the entrance. Unlike most Korean hanok, which face south, this one was built facing north so that Han would not have to face the hated Japanese Government-General Building, which was located to the south in Gwanghwamun.

The trail to the Simujang continues up past the house to the crest of the hill, which is topped by Seoul’s old fortress walls. Along the way, the route will take you through Bukjeong Village, a hillside community of humble homes that’s something of a throwback to the Seoul of decades past. One of the empty homes has been transformed into a local art museum currently displaying old photos taken in the community. If you move onward to the fortress wall, you’ll meet up with the Seoul Fortress Wall Trail, an 18.7 km hiking trail that takes you along the entirety of the old city wall. The section overlooking Seongbuk-dong offers some fantastic views over the neighborhood and is well worth the diversion.

Hidden gardens on the hillside

On the other side of the valley from Simujang (warning: it’s quite a long walk), on the road to Mt. Bugaksan, is the infinitely pleasant Buddhist temple of Gilsangsa. Gilsangsa’s architecture is atypical for a Buddhist temple, and for good reason: Until the 1990s, it was a yojeong, or a high-class restaurant where the rich and powerful ate, drank and were entertained by gisaeng, young women trained in Korean traditional dance and music. In 1987, the owner, herself a former gisaeng, offered the restaurant to the Ven. Beopjeong, one of Korea’s greatest Buddhist monks. The place was transformed into a temple, which opened in 1995. The tranquil, wooded site is a great place to relax and lose yourself in the sounds, sights and scents of nature. There’s a public mediation hall open to all, but there’s also an outdoor mediation spot in a wooded area overlooking a deep valley. The temple offers Templestay programs, too: See the website (www.kilsangsa.info) for more details.

From Gilsangsa, head up and east, following the main road along the ridgeline. This will take you through an upscale neighborhood that’s also home to many foreign diplomats. Eventually you’ll reach Samcheonggak, a pleasant cultural space, restaurant and café that, like Gilsangsa, was originally a yojeong, built as a venue for secret talks between South and North Korean officials in 1972. As remote a location as you’ll find in downtown Seoul, it’s home to wonderful gardens and forests, and its terrace café offers inspired views of downtown Seoul and the surrounding mountains. Now run by the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, Samcheonggak hosts regular performances of Korean traditional music and dance. Its Korean restaurant is highly regarded, too. As an added bonus, it has free shuttle bus service to downtown Seoul.

EAT> Seongbuk-dong does not lack for things to eat and drink. As you walk about, you’ll pass plenty of eateries and cafés, some more upscale than others. The neighborhood is particularly known for its donkkasseu (Japanese: tonkatsu), Japanese-style pork cutlets that are breaded and fried. This writer is a fan of Geumwang Donkkaseu (T. 02-763-9366), near Suyeon Sanbang. Another local specialty is the gisa sikdang (“driver restaurants”), which serve generous portions of Korean pork bulgogi and side dishes at very reasonable prices. These places originally targeted solo diners, taxi drivers in particular. A good one to try is Ssangdari Gisa Sikdang (T. 02 743-0325).

GO> Exit 6 of Hansung University Station (Line 4)

Gallery Combines 20th-century styles from Korea and abroad[/box_light]

Written by Robert J. Fouser

The newest addition to the list of historic houses in Seoul open to the public is the Jongno-gu district’s Pak No-soo Art Museum in the trendy neighborhood of Seochon. Built in 1938, the house is a rare example of a home that combines Japanese and Western design and includes Korean and Chinese motifs. Yun Deok-yeong (1873–1940), a notorious pro-Japanese collaborator in the colonial period (1910–1945), built the house for his daughter on the grounds of his estate. The home later had as its owner Pak No-soo (1927–2013), a leading 20th-century painter specializing in ink and color. Shortly before his death, Pak donated the house and 1,000 works of art to Jongno for use as an art museum. After restoration work was done in early 2013, the museum was opened to the public in September that year.

Located just off a busy street in Ogin-dong, one of the many small districts, or “dong,” that make up Seochon, the house stands out from others in the neighborhood. The exposed round rafters evokes images of a hanok, or a traditional Korean-style house, but is also reminiscent of an English Tudor-style home in a leafy suburb of a big American city. Because of its uniqueness and historical value, the residence was designated a Seoul City Cultural Property in 1991.

The house was designed by Park Gil-ryong (1898–1943), the leading Korean architect of the Japanese colonial period. He worked for the colonial government and was familiar with Western-style houses popular in Japan at the time. Park wanted to improve housing in Korea, and experimented with various ideas in this house. The shape of the roof and roof tiles reflect Japanese influence. The architect included a number of Korean elements, such as an ondol, (heated floor) room and, of course, the exposed round rafters outside. Three fireplaces used for heat are in Western-style rooms with wooden floors, making it one of the few houses in Seoul at the time with Korean and Western-style heating systems. The Chinese influence is seen through the reddish trim on the windows. The house is surrounded by trees and stroll gardens with diverse plants.

Keeping Korean painting alive

Pak, who moved into the house in 1973, had deep roots in Seochon. Lee Sang-beom (1897-1972), his teacher and mentor, lived in a hanok in neighboring Nuha-dong and had his studio next door. Pak graduated from the College of Arts at Seoul National University in 1952 and rapidly rose to fame after winning several prestigious art awards. In 1956, he joined Ewha Womans University as a professor and later moved to Seoul National University in 1962. He remained active in the art world until his health declined in the early 2000s. A retrospective of his works was held in 2010 at the National Museum of Contemporary Art at Deoksugung Palace. Through his paintings and teaching, Pak played a critical role in helping ink-and-color paintings of the Korean style remain a vital genre at a time when Koreans were abandoning tradition in favor of all things Western.

The Pak No-soo Art Museum held its inaugural exhibition in fall 2013 and future exhibitions will focus on the aspects of the late artist’s life and work. Important rooms in the facility are used as galleries and have been carefully preserved. The house is an excellent example of a preservation project that has limited renovation to a bare minimum.

FYI> The museum is open from 10am to 6pm (last entrance by 5:30pm) Tuesday to Sunday. A maximum of 20 people is  allowed in at one time.

GO> The museum is a 15-minute walk from Gyeongbokgung subway station (Line 3) and the route from the station is clearly marked.

Written by Robert J. Fouser

 Over the past couple of years, Koreans have taken an interest in historic relics of the troubled 20th century. Twentieth-century buildings of architectural and historical value are being preserved throughout the country. In Seoul, much of the activity has focused on preserving houses and buildings associated with noted 20th-century artists, writers, and politicians. Visiting these houses offers an “on-site” opportunity to learn about Korean history and culture.

Located in a deep corner of Bukchon, which is famous for its rows of traditional Korean style houses (hanok), the Go Hui-dong House (Registered Cultural Property No. 84) is a window on the history of 20th century painting in Korea. Go Hui-dong (1886–1965), who also goes by the pen name Chungok, is known as the first Korean to adopt Western-style painting. His father, Go Yeong-cheol, was a Chinese interpreter who learned English while living in China and his three uncles were all interpreters. Under his father’s influence, Go took an interest in Western culture from an early age and studied French at the Hansung French School from 1899 to 1903. In 1904, he began working for the royal court, but quit in 1908 out of frustration with growing Japanese influence over government affairs. Go became acquainted with several famous Korean-style ink-and-color painters during this time. In 1908, he went to Japan and began studying Western-style oil painting at the Tokyo School of Fine Arts under Kuroda Seiki (1866–1924), one of Japan’s pioneering Western-style oil painters at the time. A painting from his years in Japan, “Self-Portrait Holding a Fan” (1915), is the oldest extant oil painting by a Korean artist.

Go returned to Korea in 1915 and taught Western-style oil painting in elite high schools in Seoul. In 1918, he was a founding member of the Association of Painting and Calligraphy, a group of artists who were interested in preserving traditional art forms that had lost patronage after Japan took control of Korea in 1910. Through his participation in the group, Go switched from Western-style oil painting to Korean-style ink-and-color painting in the 1920s and focused on refining that style during the rest of his career.

A house that blends cultures

Go designed and built the house in 1918, and it stands as a unique mix of Korean, Japanese, and Western-style architecture. The tile roof, courtyard, and floor-heated rooms are Korean. The sliding doors and the long narrow hall that connects all the rooms reflect Japanese influence. The tile floor at the entrance reflects Western influence. Go lived in the house until 1959 and painted in a studio in the house. The house left the family and came under threat of demolition in the early 2000s, producing a public outcry. To save the house, it was registered as a cultural property in 2004. The district of Jongno-gu purchased the house in 2008 and preservation work was finished in 2011. Since then it has been open to the public, and the National Trust of Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation has organized exhibitions of Go’s work and that of his contemporaries. The front room has a permanent exhibition on Go’s life and work, and his studio is on permanent display.

The third and current exhibition, entitled “Chungok Go Hui-dong and His Friends 3: The Association of Painting and Calligraphy,” contains a number of fine Korean-style ink-and-color paintings and is on show until Dec 29.

GO> The Go Hui-dong house is a 10-minute walk from Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3). From the station, leave Exit 3 and take the main street in Gye-dong until you reach Jungang High School. Turn right in front of the school and go up and then down the hill until you come to a large tile-roofed house behind a long brick wall on the left.

Written by Robert J. Fouser

A visit to a famous place in Seoul often turns up surprises in the streets and alleys nearby. One such place is Namsangol Hanok Village 남산골 한옥마을. Opened in 1998 on the site of a former military base, Namsangol Hanok Village is a collection of reconstructions of five important late 19th-century traditional Korean houses, or hanok, in Seoul. By the 1980s, pressure to build new and taller buildings in old parts of Seoul risked the destruction of some of the city’s most important old houses. Instead of destroying them, the city decided to move and rebuild the important buildings in a park with easy access to the center of city.
To get to the Namsangol Hanok Village (www.hanokmaeul.org, 9am–9pm, April to October, closed on Tuesdays), leave from Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3 and 4), Exit 3 and follow the signs as you walk toward Mt. Namsan. Near the entrance is a reconstruction of the garden and pavilions that sat on the site during the Joseon period (1392–1910). The rebuilt houses sit to the left of the garden. Each is unique and valuable for different reasons, but the most accurate reconstruction is that of the Yi Seungeop House 이승업가옥. The house was built by the master carpenter of the 1867 reconstruction of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Yi Seung-eop—and its exquisite details reflect his expertise.

The village also has the Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater 서울남산국악당 (http://sngad.sejongpac.or.kr/eng/main.asp), which holds performances of traditional Korean music and drama. The theater complex contains Danbansa 다반사 (T. 02-2272- 7951), a wonderful traditional Korean teahouse. Behind the buildings is a park-like walk leading to a time capsule that was buried in 1994 and is scheduled to be opened in 2394, the thousandth anniversary of the founding of Seoul.

Leaving Namsangol Hanok Village, return to Chungmuro Station and leave from Exit 5 on the other side of the street. Turn right at the first narrow street and then turn left at the next street. This takes you into the area of Seoul that is famous for film, photography, and printing design and production. In Korean film and design circles, the area is simply known as “Chungmuro 충무로.” Across the street from the massive light gray Kukdong Building, for example, you will find Munhyang Bookstore 문향서점 (T. 02-2274-5434), which specializes in imported books on design. Keep walking, cross the street, and at the beginning of the next block, you will come to Gallery Illum 갤러리 이룸 (www.galleryillum.co.kr), one of a few galleries in Seoul that specializes in photography. The small gallery has frequent week-long shows that show works by emerging young photographers in Korea. One the first floor of the building with Gallery Illum is a Leica shop, and a used camera shop is on the third floor. This serves as a good introduction to the nearby backstreets, which contain a number of used camera shops and camera supply shops. To find them, turn left at the corner where you crossed the street—you will begin to see a number of used camera shops. Wander around the side streets and enjoy the variety of used and collectible cameras.

Like other older areas of Seoul, Chungmuro has a number of trendy cafés, but it also has several 1970s-style tearooms and Uijeonbang, an old-fashioned “medicinal tearoom.” Follow your way back to the subway station using the Kukdong Building as your signpost, but turn left at the end of the block past that building. Walk straight, crossing several side streets, until you come to a narrow street that angles triangularly from the right. Take this street until you come to a light brown building with a red sign on the second floor. The narrow stairs lead to a small old-looking tearoom that offers some of Seoul’s best “medicinal” thick tea made from a combination of Korean medicinal herbs.

From here, follow your way back to the subway, but before you leave Chungmuro, think about having dinner at Daerimjeong 대림정 (www.daerimjung.co.kr, lunch 11:30am–2pm, dinner 5:30pm–8pm), a restaurant that specializes in
traditional Korean course meals. Daerimjeong faces the busy street near Exit 7 of Chungmuro Station.

GO>
Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Line 3, 4), Exit 3

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EXPLORING SUNGNYEMUN GATE AND ITS NEIGHBORS | 숭례문 지역
Seoul’s historic entrance is reborn

Written by Robert J. Fouser

History may note this year as “Year of the Seoul City Wall.” Efforts to rebuild lost sections of the wall are moving forward, and interest in the wall is at an all-time high. The recent reopening of Sungnyemun Gate in May 2013 after years of reconstruction focuses attention to the western section of the wall. In the early 20th century, Japanese colonial rulers destroyed the wall around Sungnyemun Gate for roads and a streetcar line linking the center of the city with Seoul Station.

A good way to explore the western section of the wall is to start at Seoul Station (Line 1, 4 and A’REX Line). Opened in 1925, the old part of the station is one of the most notable buildings remaining from the Japanese colonial period (1910–1945). Until the new KTX station opened in 2004, the old building was the main gateway to Seoul. After several years of restoration, the station was transformed into the Culture Station Seoul 284, a multipurpose art space for special exhibitions and events, in 2011 (http://seoul284.org/new/eng/intro/intro.php). The cultural center also has a room for a permanent exhibit on the history of Seoul Station.

The short walk from Seoul Station toward Sungnyemun Gate goes past several old commercial buildings from the mid-twentieth century. First built in 1396, the gate was rebuilt and repaired several times in the 15th century but did not undergo another major renovation until 1962. It was the best example of an original early Joseon-period structure and was designated National Treasure No. 1. An arson fire in 2008 destroyed the gate, which shocked the nation, but five years of painstaking construction have produced a historically faithful replica. The gate is the largest and most ornate of the four large main gates in the Seoul City Wall. Walk around Sungnyemun Gate and notice the beautiful curves in the roof and other details.

From Sungnyemun Gate, turn in the direction of Seoul Station and cross the street at the first crosswalk. Turn right, go straight, and cross the next street. You will then see a sidewalk that looks like the Seoul City Wall and a reconstructed portion of the wall next to the KCCI building. This part of the wall was reconstructed in 2005 during the construction of the KCCI building. Keep going until you come to the Olive Tower, another tall office building. You will soon see that the base of the reconstructed wall in front of this building looks older than the rest of the wall. This is one of the stones are from the original wall and was unearthed during the construction of the building. The wall stops at the next street and does not pick up for one kilometer, until the area around Sajik Tunnel.

From here, go straight and then turn left at the JoongAng Ilbo Building and go straight. Cross the busy street, turn right, cross the street, and turn left. Go straight until you come to a long, curving apartment building with shops on the first floor, the Seosomun Apartments. Built in 1972, the building is one of the earliest examples of a residential-commercial building in Korea. The building was built over a covered up stream, which explains its rare curved shape. Among the shops are several cafés and restaurants with outdoor seating that offer interesting views of Seoul’s jumbled cityscape.

The Seosomun Apartments end at a busy street. Turning left leads to Seodaemun Station (Line 5), and tuning right takes you back to Seoul Station following the train tracks. Another choice is to time your visit so that you can return to Sungnyemun Gate in the evening for the spectacular light up.

GO>
Seoul Station | 서울역
Seoul Station 서울역 (Line 1, 4, A’REX)

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Sungnyemun Gate | 숭례문
Hoehyeon Station 회현역 (Line 4)

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Seosomun Apartments | 서소문 아파트
Seodaemun Station 서대문역 (Line 5)

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Kyung Hee Univ. © Meagan Mastriani

From Korea University to Kyung Hee University l 고려대학교—경희대학교
Where history and students meet

Written by Robert J. Fouser

In the 1930s, Seoul expanded rapidly beyond the Seoul City Wall into the fields and hills that surrounded the city. A walk from Korea University to Kyung Hee University, both located in a hilly area with lots of greenery, makes for a pleasant walk rich in history and culture.

To begin the walk, leave Korea University Station 고려대역 (Line 6), Exit 1. The exit takes you into the Korea University campus 고려대학교, with the Gothic and imposing Main Hall 본관 (1934) and Main Library 중앙도서관 (1937) in the background. After seeing the buildings and the campus grounds, stop by the Korea University Museum on the way back to the subway station (10am–5pm, closed Monday); it is one of the most extensive university museums in Korea. Until May 12, 2013, the museum is holding a special exhibition of Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) screens depicting Changdeokgung Palace in great detail. The museum also has an exhibition on university history, the first of its kind in Korea.

After seeing the museum, cross the street at the subway station and walk past Exit 3, turning right at the next major street. Go straight and cross the next major street, and you will see the entrance to the King Sejong the Great Memorial Hall 세종대왕기념관 on the right (9am–6pm, closed Monday). Opened in 1973 by the King Sejong Memorial Society, the museum has the largest exhibition in honor of King Sejong in Korea.

Behind the museum lie two royal tombs—Yeonghwiwon 영휘원 and Sunginwon 숭인원 (9am–6:30pm, closed Monday)—of Sunheon, the first concubine to King Gojong, and Ijin, the infant son of Yeongchin, the last crown prince of the Joseon Dynasty. The extensive grounds contain a number of lovely statues and offer a brief look at the architecture of royal tombs. Collectively, the two tombs are known as Hongneung because the tomb of Queen Myeongseong, who was murdered by the Japanese in 1895, took this name. Her tomb was moved to its current site in Namyangju when King Gojong, her husband, died in 1919.

From the tombs, return to the entrance of the museum, turn right, and keep going straight until the street makes a curve. Turning left here takes you past a lively commercial strip catering to students and into the campus of Kyung Hee University 경희대학교, a major private university with three museums and garden-like grounds. The most interesting museum is Hye- Jung Museum 혜정박물관, the only old map museum in Korea (10am–4pm, Monday–Friday). Located on the 4th floor of the university library, the museum has an outstanding collection of old maps on Korea. The Natural History Museum 자연사박물관 is the first of its kind in Asia (10am–4pm, Monday–Saturday). The Central Museum 중앙박물관 (10am–5pm, Monday– Friday), also located on the 4th floor of the library, contains mostly archaeological artifacts, but it also has an interesting exhibition on Korean shamanism.

After leaving the university and returning to the curve in the road, turn left and go straight until you come to a busy intersection. Cross the street and look for alleys lined with restaurants selling pajeon 파전, a wonderful pancake-like dish with onions and seafood that is usually served with makgeolli 막걸리 (rice wine). The area is known as Pajeon Alley 파전골목 and caters to the large number of students who live in the area. Hoegi Station 회기역 (Line 1) is very close and marks the end of the walk.

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FYI>

Korea University: www.korea.edu
King Sejong the Great Memorial Hall: www.sejongkorea.org (Korean only)
Kyung Hee University: www.khu.ac.kr/eng
Hye-Jung Museum: http://oldmaps.khu.ac.kr (Korean only)
The Natural History Museum: http://nhm.khu.ac.kr (Korean only)
The Central Museum: http://museum.khu.ac.kr (Korean only)

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Korea University Station 고려대역 (Line 6)
(1-2  Anam-dong 5-ga, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul ㅣ서울시 성북구 안암동5가 1-2)

크게 보기

Hoegi Station 회기역 (Line 1)
(1  Hoegi-dong, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul ㅣ서울시 동대문구 회기동 1)

크게 보기

© Kim Sungjin

© James Kim

A WALK THROUGH YEOUIDO IN THE SPRING

Seoul’s Manhattan is more than just cherry blossoms

Written by Robert J. Fouser

April brings spring flowers to Seoul, and one the best places to enjoy them is Hangang Park and Yeouido Park, both on Yeouido, the large island in the Hangang River. Built on the site of the old Seoul airfield in the 1970s, Yeouido was the first planned city south of the Hangang River in Seoul. Its success helped spur the development of Gangnam and other new cities throughout Korea.

Yeouido sits at the center of the Korean establishment. The National Assembly, the Korea Exchange Center, and the headquarters of KBS, MBC, and a number of other important companies, including LG, are located here. The island also has several apartment complexes that are excellent examples of the “matchbox” design that was popular in the 1970s and 1980s.

The best way to begin a tour of Yeouido is from Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Line 5, 9). Leave from Exit 3 and walk straight toward Yeouido Park. From 1972 to 1999, the area was a large concrete plaza that was used mainly for political events. Large-scale political events fell out of favor after democratization in the 1980s, and the area was redeveloped into a green park in 1999. Walk through the park and enjoy the many flowering trees.

From Yeouido Park, KBS makes for an interesting stop. The KBS On Exhibition Hall offers a short introduction to KBS and broadcasting (free, 9:30am–5:30pm every day, admission by 5pm) Next to KBS is the National Assembly Building. People interested in Korean politics can visit the National Assembly Visitor’s Center (free, 9am–6pm weekdays, 9am–5pm weekends, except for the second and fourth Sundays of the month; admission one hour before closing), which offers an interesting look at the function and history of the National Assembly.

Leaving the National Assembly Visitor’s Center, turn left and walk past the front of the National Assembly Library until you come to Hangang Park. Developed in the 1980s as part of a chain of parks along the Hangang River, the park hosts the annual Yeouido Cherry Blossom Festival in the middle of April. The park spans the entire perimeter of the island and offers wonderful views of the Yeouido skyline as well as Mt. Namsan on the other side of the Hangang River. The park is particularly popular for nighttime cherry blossom viewing during the festival.

The long walk in Hangang Park leads to another Yeouido attraction: 63 City. Opened in 1985 as part of the preparations for the 1988 Olympics, the tall golden building was the tallest building in Asia at the time and remained the tallest building in Korea until 2003. The top floors offer sweeping views of Seoul from the observatory and restaurants. The lower floors have one of the largest aquariums in Asia, an IMAX theater, and a shopping mall.

From 63 City, turn left and then right at the next main street. The walk passes a number of “matchbox” apartment complexes built in the 1970s that sit symmetrically amid mature trees. Turning left at the corner with the Korea Exchange Center and MBC leads back to Yeouido Station.

Compared with the historic center of Seoul, Yeouido feels new and at times artificial. As a product of the period when Korea focused on creating a solid middle class, it offers more for children, making it a relaxing family destination, particularly during cherry blossom season.

© James Kim

© James Kim

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Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5),  Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Line 5, 9), National Assembly Station 국회의사당역 (Line 9), or Saetgang Station 샛강역 (Line 9)

‘MAPPING’ SEOUL IN THE 1930s

Colonial cartography offers fascinating insights into a dark period in the capital’s history

Written by Robert J. Fouser 
Images courtesy of author

Historians know the power of maps as research tools. They know that maps, like other types of historical documentation, are accurate not in the absolute, but as reflections of society at a given point in time. Maps tell how space was organized in the past and how people defined it, giving information that helps develop, along with many other sources, the “story of the past.”

Maps of Seoul in the 20th century document the tremendous changes the city experienced in those 100 years. Amid the torrid climate of change, two periods stand out: the 1930s and the 1970s. These two decades brought rapid changes in maps, as city planners responded to surging population growth that began in the previous decades. From 1920 to 1940, the population jumped from 253,000 to 1,110,000; from 1960 to 1980, it jumped from 2,445,000 to 8,364,000. This explosive growth overwhelmed the city infrastructure at both times.

Colonial administration

Of the two periods, the 1930s are particularly interesting because it brought great change to the historic heart of Seoul, producing the urban paradigm that lasted until the 1970s when the Gangnam area was developed based on apartments and wide roads. Decisions about planning in the 1930s, of course, were in the hands of Japanese colonial rulers who looked to administrative centers in Japan for ideas. By 1940, Seoul, or Gyeongseong (Keijo in Japanese), as they called it, was the fifth largest city in Imperial Japan, ranking between Kyoto and Yokohama.

A map printed from the early 1930s says much about Seoul after a decade of growth in the 1920s. Areas of grey dots and the largely intact Seoul Wall are most noticeable. The grey dots indicate urban areas and fill most of the area inside the wall, but also expand to the south and west, areas that developed after the Japanese destroyed the city wall. Itaewon was the center of the Japanese military and was secluded from the rest of the city by Mt. Namsan and the hills in what are now Hannam-dong and Yaksu-dong.

Dissolving social classes

Of particular interest are the white spaces in the Bukchon area. Anguk-dong and areas closer to Gyeongbokgung Palace were dense, but Gahoe-dong and Gye-dong, popular tourist spots today, were largely white space. By contrast, Seochon, the area on the other side of the palace, was more densely developed. The streetcar line running along the west side of the palace and larger areas of flat land help explain the difference at this time.

A map printed in the late 1930s shows many of the changes that took place in that decade. Rapid development of Gahoe-dong and Gye-dong occurred in the mid-1930s and this map show more streets and alleys. The collapse of Joseon society after Japanese colonial rule began in 1910 gradually impoverished the aristocratic families that had lived in Bukchon. By the 1930s, they were forced to sell their large estates, which were divided into smaller lots for the densely packed rows of Koreanstyle city houses, or “city hanok.”

Increasing urban spread and Japanization

By the late 1930s, the city had filled in the area inside the walls and had spread well beyond them. In the earlier map, Daehak-ro and Hyehwa-dong were white space, except for Gyeongseong Imperial University, the forerunner of Seoul National University. By the end of the decade, the area was full of roads and alleys. Part of the city wall near Dongdaemun had been destroyed, and two street car lines expanded east. Earlier growth in Yongsan had spread to Mapo, and the map showed Noryangjin, one of the first areas on the south side of the Han River to be urbanized. Noryangjin and Yeongdeungpo, the first primary industrial areas of Seoul, were incorporated into the city in 1936 (Yeouido was a swamp and not shown on most maps).

The growth of Seoul in the 1930s also reflects the weight of efforts to “Japanize” Ko r e a . The earlier map gave local neighborhood names for areas in northern half of the city in Korean (“dong”) and in Japanese (“cho”) for areas in the southern half. This reflects the pattern of settlement that emerged during the colonial period in which Japanese dominated the southern half of the city and Koreans the northern half. In the map from the late 1930s, all of the neighborhoods are given in Japanese, which reflects the “Japanization” of the city both as policy and as demographics.

Reading maps of Seoul in the 1930s shows a city changing from a compact administrative center to a large metropolis with a diverse economy. These maps also show the extent of colonial oppression and stand as reminders of the struggle for ownership of history that continues in Korea to this day.