Though just a stone’s throw from some of Seoul’s best known tourist destinations, including Namdaemun Market, Myeong-dong and Namsan Mountain, Hoehyeon-dong gets overlooked by travelers. This is a shame, really. A little piece of old Seoul in the heart of the bustling downtown, the neighborhood functions as an outdoor museum to the city’s history, a reminder of decades past, of the time before the glass skyscrapers and the neon lights. It’s a place to get lost in, wandering the narrow hillside alleys, taking in the textures, the sounds, the aromas.

Or at least that’s what it’s like now. Change might be on the way, however. The addition to the neighborhood of Piknic, one of the city’s trendiest art spaces, is drawing a younger crowd — and younger entrepreneurs — to Hoehyeon-dong. The opening last year of Seoullo 7017, too, has helped more people discover the district’s charms. Seoul Metropolitan Government, too, has recently announced plans to renovate the neighborhood, to refurbish its alleys and clean up its historical sites. How much longer the gritty Hoehyeon-dong of old will last is anyone’s guess, so explore it now before it’s gone forever.

A Piknic away from the mundane

Piknic (www.piknic.kr) is hidden amid the jungle of an old neighborhood on the northern slope of Namsan Mountain. Despite being a rather large building, it’s easy to miss, the hilly landscape and neighboring buildings obscuring your view. Unless you’re paying attention, you could pass its gate without even knowing it’s there.

Operated by the exhibition production company Glint, Piknic is a multifaceted cultural complex, complete with exhibit halls, a café, design shop and even a Michelin star restaurant. In keeping with trends, the building is an old office from the 1970s, remodeled and reinterpreted for use as an arts space. From its open rooftop, you can enjoy excellent views of Namsan Mountain and downtown Seoul.

Piknic’s maiden exhibition, “Ryuichi Sakamoto: LIFE, LIFE,” is a beautiful yet concise presentation of Japanese musician and composer Ryuichi Sakamoto’s 40-year career as an artist, focusing on collaborations with other renown world artists such as Nam June Paik. The exhibit presents Sakamoto’s work as installations, providing the audience with a unique experience, a “picnic away from the mundane.”

The installation this writer enjoyed the most was the mysteriously named, “Life-fluid, invisible, inaudible …” The visuals created by fog on water and projector are very relaxing — you need to lie down to appreciate it. The sound and music simply add to the experience.

On the first floor, you’ll find Kafe Piknic, a spacious café designed around an extremely long table. Though not exactly cozy, the elongated table introduces a fun new dynamic to the café experience. Maybe you’ll need to scooch over a seat to make a place for new guests. Then maybe you will end up talking with a stranger and their company. Who knows?

Also on the first floor is the design shop Kiosk Kiosk with its curated collection of books, badges, clothes, bags, stationary and other items. On the third floor is Zero Complex, a Michelin-starred French restaurant renowned for its innovative cuisine and design. Good luck getting in without a reservation, though.

Vintage charm on Namsan Mountain

If you head in the direction of Namdaemun Market from Piknic, you’ll find a little convenience store, a takeout coffee shop, a hat shop, restaurant, a wine shop and even a small Buddhist temple. You’ll also find an elevator that connects to Seoullo 7017, the historic overpass-turned-elevated park.

Also near Piknic there is a visually impressive relic of decades past. The landmark Hoehyeon Citizen’s Apartment reminds you of an old castle, albeit a run-down one. Completed in 1970, the giant complex is one of the city’s oldest surviving apartments, built as part of a government program to resettle residents of illegal shantytowns that grew after the Korean War. The city recently announced a plan to renovate the historic building, once thought ready for the wrecking ball, transforming it into a cultural space. Though largely empty, the complex is still home to about 60 families.

Just above Hoehyeon Citizen’s Apartment is the tastefully minimalist Café Mamoe (T. 02-776-2008), a small coffeehouse boasting lovely views over the surroundings, especially from its outdoor terrace. Not far from Café Mamoe are forested walking trails and the lower terminal for the Namsan Cable Car. If you’re up for a bit of historical exploration, Seoul’s old fortress wall is but a short walk away.

Below Piknic is a maze of narrow alleyways lined by single-story homes, low-rise apartments and small businesses. The heart of Hoehyeon-dong, the neighborhood is an outdoor museum of Seoul’s modern history. In the days of the Joseon Dynasty, the valleys on the northern slope of Namsan Mountain were home to scholars and artists of humble means. In the early 20th century, however, Japanese settlers moved into the area, transforming Hoehyeon-dong into a colonial residential zone. Many of these homes, easily recognized by their distinctive mixture of Japanese and Western elements, remain today. The city plans to give the area a bit of a facelift, adding decorative walls and cleaning facades in order to turn the neighborhood, which in days of old was called “Southern Village,” or Namchon, into a travel destination to rival Bukchon, its posher counterpart to the north.

Also in the tangle of alleyways are plenty of old restaurants, some several decades old (see Dining section). Often run by the same families for several generations, these places are living history, offering plenty of ambience in addition to good food. Some favorites include Hoehyeonjip, renowned for its kimchi jjigae; Jinjujip, which has been serving delicious kkori gomtang for 70 years; Yaraehyang, a Chinese restaurant run by a chef with five decades of experience; and Eunho Sikdang, which has been doing gomtang for even longer than Jinjujip.

For something really different, step inside the newly opened L’Escape Hotel (www.lescapehotel.com), located just behind Hoehyeon Station. Billing itself as a “Parisian escape in the heart of Seoul,” the Shinsegae Group’s boutique hotel is not an exercise in moderation. The space boasts decadently baroque room designed by Jacques Garcia, the French architect renowned for his work at some of the world’s swankiest hotels and even for the Sultan of Brunei. The dining options are equally decadent, featuring collaborations with local and international artisans such as Seoul dessert shop Maison M’O and New York restaurant The Modern, with its two Michelin stars. The bar on the top floor is not only lavishly appointed, but also directed by London bartender group Taxonomy.

Written by Seungwoo Jin
Photographed by Robert Koehler

If the coexistence of old and new defines Seoul, that coexistence arrives at its extreme in Sinyongsan.

In this neighborhood, gleaming highrises loom over gritty streets seemingly unchanged for decades. Corner grocery stores and aging motels stand next to pieces by some of the art world’s biggest rock stars. In one alley, young couples wait in front of a trendy Japanese restaurant; in another, older gentlemen sit in their favorite local haunt, laughing and swapping tales over a bottle or three of soju. Sometimes, the contrast approaches the surreal, as it does in one back street where the giant mass of Amorepacific’s futuristic new corporate headquarters emerges from the pink brick facade of a low-rent inn from yesteryear.

The addition of the Amorepacific headquarters, which opened last year, is transforming the environs, too. The landmark not only has added to the neighborhood its thousands of employees, but is also drawing countless visitors with its sophisticated restaurants and cafés and innovative cultural spaces, the most spectacular being the Amorepacific Museum of Art (APMA). The influx of new people, in turn, has invigorated an erstwhile quiet, even neglected, part of the city. And with the nearby Yongsan Garrison set to be turned into a public park as the U.S. military relocated south of Seoul, locals think the changes have only just begun.

Communicating through culture

“It is more than an office. The building suggests generosity of spirit to the people who work here and the citizens,” said British architect David Chipperfield, the designer of the Amorepacific headquarters, to influential design and architecture magazine Wallpaper. “It is something that mediates between the company and the city. It shows how a company can participate in the larger community.”

The building adheres to Chipperfield’s design philosophy, which is to say, it is simple, integrated into nature and uses cutting-edge technology. Though not the only futuristic edifice in the area, and certainly not the tallest, the giant cube of aluminum and glass dominates the cityscape through mass and ingenious design, most notably its square cutouts exposing terrace courtyards, or “hanging gardens,” that connect the edifice with the outdoors.

Step inside, and you are greeted by a soaring three-story atrium illuminated by both natural and artificial light. Connected to shops, restaurants and cultural facilities such as the AMPA, the atrium is a public space, one that awes and inspires like an ancient cathedral.

The APMA occupies much of the basement level. The museum seeks to communicate with visitors through the common language of art. Kyoungran Kim, the museum’s senior curator, explains, “The AMPA differentiates itself as a space where where you can experience new sensations through exhibitions bringing together traditional and contemporary art in a variety of genres, including architecture, design and fashion, and as a museum that communicates intimately with the public.”

For its inaugural exhibit, the AMPA chose Mexican-born Canadian artist Rafael Lozano-Hemmer, one of the most active figures in the genre of media art. His exhibit at the APMA, “Decision Forest,” represents his first solo show in Korea and his first retrospective in Asia. Featuring 29 works from a 26-year career, the show — which runs through Aug. 26 — includes pieces ranging from kinetic sculptures to biometric installations, all integrating bleeding-edge technology such as virtual reality and nanotechnology. Many of the works react to the visitor’s face, voice, fingerprints and even heartbeat, creating an interactive experience. Kim explains, “The works on display are a platform of creative communication that turns the viewer into the subject.”

The APMA is not the only work of art on the premises. Amorepacific has a tradition of integrating exceptional works of art into their spaces, and its new headquarters is no exception. Renowned installation artist Olafur Eliasson’s “Overdeepening” stands in the park just in front of the building, while the illuminated display “Infinite Bloom” graces the “hanging garden” on the fifth floor, a space not ordinarily open to the public.

A transitional space transitioning

The centerpiece of a masterplan to transform the urban core of the Yongsan district, the Amorepacific headquarters has quickly become one of the city’s hot spots. This has been a boon to the surrounding neighborhood, where shops and restaurants bustle with the influx of new customers. Because the Ministry of Defense and the sprawling Yongsan Garrison are just next door, the neighborhood has long faced development restrictions, turning it into an outdoor museum of 20th century Seoul, its narrow streets lined by colonial-era homes and offices, low-rise brick residences, old restaurants and pubs and one of the city’s oldest surviving apartment complexes. Though new, trendy spaces are opening every day, the area still retains its original character, more or less.

Many visitors to Sinyongsan eat and drink in the basement arcade of Amorepacific, where a carefully curated selection of eateries and cafés await (see Dining section), including a branch of Jeju coffeeshop Dorrell and tea brand Osulloc’s premium tea shop, Osulloc 1979. If you’re willing to do a bit of exploring, however, hidden around the headquarters are many culinary gems, some being old local favorites, others new additions to the neighborhood.

One of Sinyongsan’s hottest eateries is Monami Curry, the recently opened Seoul branch of the popular Daegu eatery. Housed in a restored Korean War-era home in an alley abutting Amorepacific, the place combines vintage charm with beautifully presented Japanese homestyle dishes such as curry, croquettes and karaage, or Japanese-style fried chicken. An Instagram favorite is the “half-half” curry, or ban-ban keore, a tricolor plate of beef tomato curry and cream shrimp curry, divided by a wall of white rice.

Just up the alley from Monami Curry is Boiling Pot Coffee, a renovated 85-year-old house with a rooftop space overlooking the neighborhood. The coffee shop also doubles as an art gallery. Park Min-cheol, the owner, says, “I love this building. It has a history, a story.” He adds, “This neighborhood is a border zone — you have Amorepacific on one side, and on the other you have Sinyongsan, which is like walking around in the 1990s.”

Tucked into a cluster of alleys a minute’s walk from Amorepacific is Bukcheon Donkkaseu, a narrow, two-story hole-in-the-wall beloved by foodies for its breaded pork cutlets smothered in brown gravy. Expect to wait in a line if you visit during weekday lunch hours. Next door is another hot restaurant, Jejuok, where you can enjoy Jeju delicacies such as noodle soup with pork slices and rice balls wrapped in brown seaweed.

A little bit of Germany awaits at Kaki Baum, a café/restaurant run by a woman who learned German home-style cooking during a two-decade stay in the country. The first floor café serves lovely desserts such as apple streusel, while the second floor restaurant does schnitzels, goulash, schweinshaxe and other German favorites. On the roof, you’ll find Gamnamu Studio, a tiny but adorably designed photo studio with a lovely view over Sinyongsan.

On the same street as Kaki Baum is Invited, a renovated old two-story home-turned-chic coffeehouse serving brews prepared from beans by Melbourne-based Dukes Coffee Roasters. When the weather is nice, head up to the rooftop, where there are chairs, tables and a view.

For something on the healthy side, WeMix presents a nutritious reinterpretation of fast food with a menu of delicious salads and stews. Try the Gold Beef, a salad made from slices of flat iron steak and roasted veggies, or the hearty Tomato Beef Stew.

Several boutiques have opened in the area, too. If you’ve got a couple of hours to kill, sign up for a one-day leather-working class at 109 Leather Workshop. Run by a leather designer and long-time Yongsan resident, the storeroom/atelier also does custom wallets, bags and other products. Designer Kim Gi-hyun of design brand Heidenei! — Swabian for “Oh my God,” or something to that effect — has opened a small brick-and-mortar shop in the neighborhood, one sure to become a social media favorite.

Busier on weekdays? Really?

Yes, unlike Seoul’s other hot spots, Sinyongsan is busier on weekdays, when workers from Amorepacific, the Ministry of Defense and other local businesses and
institutions mob the local favorites, especially at the lunch hour. Weekends are relatively quiet, although this may change should word of the neighborhood’s charms continue to spread.

Editor’s Pick: Sido

Towards the Samgakji Station end of Sinyongsan is a knot of boisterous, delightfully gritty alleyways lined by old restaurants, most notably joints serving cod stew, or daegutang (see Dining section). At the end of one such alley is Sido, a small one-room café in a renovated house. Truly a hidden gem, Sido enchants with its simple menu, minimalist decor, jazz-heavy music selection and the view of Yongsan through its plate glass frontage.

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Sinyongsan Station (Line 4), Exit 1.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

When you think of Gangnam, you imagine gleaming skyscrapers, neon lights, luxury boutiques, even more luxurious apartments, multimillion dollar entertainment companies, tides of humanity moving in and out of Gangnam Station.

Well, Songnidan-gil isn’t that. Except for the gleaming skyscraper.

Lining the stretch of road running southward through the low-rise, mostly residential district just south of East Seokchon Lake, Songnidan-gil espouses a slower, simpler, more visual way of doing things. Creative, sophisticated and, above all, young, the neighborhood embraces the gritty urban aesthetic pioneered by older neighborhoods north of the Hangang River; at the same time, it retains a distinctly Gangnam allure, with lakes, parks, mega malls and the 123-story Lotte World Tower all within easy reach.

No ordinary —nidan-gil

Like other so-called “—nidan-gil” neighborhoods like Mangwon-dong’s “Mangnidan-gil” and Geumho-dong’s “Geumnidan-gil” (featuring in the June issue of SEOUL), Songnidan-gil’s name playfully combines the location — Songpa-dong — with the granddaddy of Seoul’s alleyway hotspots, Itaewon’s Gyeongnidan-gil.

Though the neighborhood really came into its own only last year, when it caught fire on social media, its evolution from quiet residential backwater to one of the city’s trendiest destinations began in 2014, when the Lotte World Mall opened on the northern shore of Seokchon Lake. Seoul’s largest shopping complex drew many more young people to the Jamsil area with a mix of commerce and culture, hosting popular, highly Instagrammable public art events such as Florentijn Hofman’s “Rubber Duck” and Craig & Karl’s “Hi Spirits,” a collaborative exhibit with Line Friends. It wasn’t long before some of these young people discovered the relatively low rents across the lake and began opening places of their own.

To be sure, you’ll be tripping over hip, Instaready cafés, restaurants and boutiques, some of them local branches of popular shops from other “it” spots like Ikseon-dong and Yeonnam-dong.

Nevertheless, Songnidan-gil differs in significant ways.

Seoul’s other “—nidan-gil” hot spots are north of the Hangang River, in the older part of the city where gritty residential and industrial districts are many. Songnidan-gil, however, is south of the river, in Gangnam, the newer, posher Seoul, where swank has historically trumped hip.

Accordingly, just beyond this oasis of small-scale millennial cool are a lake (Seokchon Lake), an amusement park (Lotte World), a sprawling urban park (Olympic Park), a giant stadium (Olympic Stadium), one of Seoul’s largest malls (Lotte World Mall) and one of the world’s tallest buildings (Lotte World Tower), the last one visible at the end of nearly every alleyway in the neighborhood. And just beyond those are COEX, the corporate headquarters of Tehran-ro and the electric nightlife districts of Gangnam Station.

This not only provides Songnidan-gil’s residents and visitors more leisure options, but also ensures a crowd that is both steady and diverse.

Something to eat

The neighborhood is blessed with plenty of fine eateries where good food meets youthful design. One of the more popular ones is Mizza Sikdang (T. 02-425-0809), a fusion joint where the specialties include donkatsu with pollock roe and curry with crab and spinach. The food is good and the prices reasonable, but be prepared to wait in line, even if you get there early. Two doors down is Vert Vert (T. 010-9414-8094), a sandwich and salad bar popular with the brunch crowd.

Another great little sandwich bar is New Zealand Story (T. 070-7523-6265), where the menu boasts some beautifully prepared and creatively named sandwiches, salads and soups.

For a taste of Taiwan, try the beef noodle soup at Mienai (T. 02-422-0652). Even better, the open kitchen means you can watch the chefs prepare your meal as you wait.

Menya Hanabi (T. 070-8959-1108) and Manfuku (T. 02-424-4702) serve delightful, simply prepared Japanese dishes — Nagoya-style noodles at the former, Japanese home cooking at the latter.

ChangHwaDang, the Ikseon-dong dumpling shop, has opened a shop in Songnidan-gil. Like the original, it’s almost always full too, suggesting that they’re doing something right. On the same road is a branch of the Wangsimni dessert café Sammat Hotteok (T. 02-423-7676), where you, too, can experience the unmitigated joy that is their Italian Hotteok.

The flavors of the New World are well represented, too. God Eat (T. 02-487-9451) does some of the finest burritos and tacos this side of the Hangang River. Downtowner (T. 0507-1317-3696), the renowned Hannam-dong burger joint, has brought their Avocado Burgers and delectable fries here, too.

Coffee with class and one helluva view

You can’t walk five meters in Songnidan-gil without passing a tastefully appointed place to caffeinate.

Café Edit (T. 070-7787-2214) is a bit off the main drag, but it’s friendly and really brings the cute. To impress your Instagram friends, order the colorful Aurora Drink — the blue comes from tea infused with flowers.

February Roasters (T. 0507-1420-1005) serves proper coffee in a minimalist setting. For something different, try their Espresso Green Tea Latte.

Seoulism (@seoulism_gallerycafe) may be the neighborhood’s most popular café, and certainly it’s most photographed. And for good reason, too — the rooftop space boasts a jaw-dropping panorama of the Jamsil area, including, of course, Lotte World Tower. You might have to wait a bit to enter, but trust us, the view is worth every minute of it.

Just as popular is Gabaedo (T. 02-423-4542), a Japanese-inspired café hidden on the second floor of an old commercial building. Many customers liken the place, with its vintage Japanese decor, to a visit to Kyoto itself. This writer ordered the sakurambo tea and panna cotta. He was impressed by both.

In the mood for something a bit more Korean? Head to Another Sunday (T. 0507-1317-1031), a tiny, vintage-inspired café serving creative takes on traditional Korean rice cakes, including a delightful steamed white rice cake, or seolgi, topped with cream.

The artistically minded should head to MOCA (T. 02-421-2221), a basement café that doubles as an art gallery.

Best days still ahead?

Songnidan-gil is hot, and it’s going to get hotter. Though you currently have to walk five or 10 minutes from Jamsil Station to reach the neighborhood, a subway station for Line 9 will open in October at Bangi Intersection, right at the entrance of Songnidan-gil. The subway will also connect the place more fully with other places in Gangnam, so expect bigger crowds and more energy later in the year. As the owner of one café said, “Many commercial spaces trying different things are popping up, and with the subway set to open, I think the neighborhood will gradually grow more lively.”

Editor’s Pick: Ririrhim

Hidden in a quiet alley off Songnidan-gil’s main road, Ririrhim is a design studio, workshop and concept store offering handicrafts and artworks with a nature theme, including handmade candles, postcards and canvas tote bags. They also host classes on candle making and other crafts. T. 010-5425-5683

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GO> Seokchon Station (Line 8), Exit 2. Walk three blocks, turn left and you’re there.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

The Dongho Bridge and Hangang riverside provide Seoulites a space for rest and relaxation.

A riverside neighborhood comes into its own

Wedged between Dongdaemun-gu and Yongsan-gu and nestled right at the mouth of the Han River’s Jungnancheon tributary, Seongdong-gu is not one of the most recognizable district names in Seoul. To many Seoulites, Oksu Station and Geumho Station are simply mile markers along the morning commute. Though Oksu Station’s raised dome-covered platform, a local icon, is easily visible in passing on the highway, few have taken it upon themselves to explore the neighborhood below. Recently, however, grassroots efforts to rejuvenate what was for decades a sleepy residential corner of Seoul have created a young and laid-back neighborhood feel, a vibe that is drawing more and more visitors through social media buzz.

In between sunrises and sunsets

Local photographers know that the peaks bookending Seongdong-gu, Eungbongsan and Maebongsan, offer spectacular sunrises and sunsets with clear views of the Hangang River and Seoul skyline. For early birds, making the pre-dawn trip to Maebongsan is well worth the effort. The slopes of Seongdong-gu’s mountains lead to Hangang Park and Dalmaji-bong Park, with their outdoor activities galore, and the neighborhoods of Oksu-dong and Geumho-dong, with their independent cafés, bottle shops, eateries and fine dining.

Seeming custom-made with date courses specifically in mind, the area is an ideal place to spend some time in the sun with friends along the Hangang River and retreat to a nearby pub for evening drinks. Choose a sport — basketball, badminton, bike riding — or non-sport — kite flying, sunbathing — at Hangang Park or Dalmaji-bong Park. You can even bask in the serenity of traditional Korean architecture at Mitasa Temple, located immediately outside of Oksu Station.

The Hangang has a basketball court and other sports facilities.

Darak Oksu

Local city governments have been launching community revitalization plans to make more efficient use of outdated city infrastructure in eco-friendly ways. One such project, a collaboration of Seoul and Seongdong-gu, has come to fruition under Line 3’s Oksu Station. Opening just this past April, Darak Oksu, as it is called, is reminiscent of a Hobbit hole. A “free garden” of vegetation covers an earthen mound housing a children’s book café and open facility for community events. At the time of writing this article, the seedlings were still aspiring to become full, lush foliage, but they are growing with the help of a mirror-like awning designed to harvest sunlight from dim conditions. With the coming summer weather, the landscaping will soon start to take hold, turning into a pleasant urban garden.

Considering its close proximity with Hangang Park, Darak Oksu serves as a pleasant centerpiece for a hub of leisure activities. When asked for food recommendations, locals point to a modest street outside of Exit 5. It starts with a popular street food vender serving a constant stream of customers and continues down past the elementary school. A bustling Italian-style pizzeria, a wine bar, barbecue joints, chicken and beer, and ddeokbokki. A diverse crowd sits in Bean Plateau (T. 02-2299-5758), many resting from a day spent at the park. The newly opened downstairs features antique upholstered furniture, traditional Western deep green paneling, and a collection of knickknacks and photos that are simultaneously impressive and comforting.

Bean Plateau owner Bhyun Mi-Sook is satisfied with the recent transformation. A resident herself, she predicts the neighborhood will continue to be charming and peaceful, its narrow streets and overpass preventing greater traffic volume or excessive development. The changes that have taken place, she says, were requested by residents themselves. “Until about two years ago, business operations closed early and the streets were dark. Businesses were asked to stay open later to keep the streets bright.” This made it easier to walk about at night, drawing the community out to socialize into the late evenings. And so began a virtuous cycle of community-building through local business.

The area around Singeumho Station boasts three independent bookstores, including the charming Library of Proust.

Slow Steps is a bakery with a free spirit.

A new generation of entrepreneurs

Chang Jinwoo, a chef and one of the architects of Itaewon’s hip Gyeongnidan-gil Street’s amazing success, has set his eyes on Geumho-dong’s so-called “Geumnidan-gil,” a budding area of trendy restaurants, cafés and bars. Chang has already opened three restaurants in Geumho-dong, and lesser known establishments nearby have appreciated a boost from Chang’s fame by geographic association.

Geumnidan-gil stretches from Singeumho Station Exit 3 down to Geumnam Market, and all along the way bold new ideas snuggle in right alongside traditional down-home Korean neighborhood fixtures: a sun-bleached barber shop, a newly opened pastel florist with a sign advertising floral arrangement and baking classes, whole fried chicken behind a glass display, a boldly painted Vietnamese noodle restaurant, elementary school students focused on their water colors in the window of an airy art hagwon, fine Italian dining and wine, a bustling steamed bun corner vendor.

Favorable real estate conditions have made the Geumho-dong and Oksu-dong area highly sought-after by twenty- and thirty-somethings, mostly newlyweds and growing families. This influx yielded a considerable demand for comfortable places to relax and eat. Young local entrepreneurs took it upon themselves to create the kinds of spaces and services they wanted to see emerge in their own community.

In Geumnam Market, an entrepreneurial program sponsored by the city government, provided 28-year-old Jeff Cho with training and a grant to start his own shop, Mazinga Dark (T. 070-4046-9200). This pub in the center of the market has nearby merchants hooked on the baked chicken.

Up the street, Bottle Sauna (T. 02-2232-8689) imports over 60 varieties of beer selected by its owner, Gimm Gunn, who opened the bottle shop in May 2017. Curiosity has gotten the best of the residents. Folks initially shy away from the unfamiliar, but Gimm offers friendly suggestions to help beginners choose. “Business started slow,” he explains, “Many came by just to take a peek. They have since become regulars and good friends of the store.” In keeping with the neighborhood ambiance, Gimm encourages a slower beer culture, where the goal is to savor, not to forget.

In April, Ella Hyunjin Kim opened Slow Steps (T. 010-2715-4651), a bright and welcoming bakery next to Geumho Elementary School, to remind us to feel happiness and calm in daily moments. Like others moving to Geumho in recent years, she arrived in Geumho-dong as a newlywed. “I chose Geumho-dong based almost entirely on the location; I was looking for somewhere easy to commute from. I didn’t really consider the neighborhood feel. After warming up and exploring a little, I was pleasantly surprised.” She hopes that her shop reinforces the existing relaxed vibes. Even the menu is a free spirit — a base of permanent favorites and a peripheral rotation of items reflecting the mood of the day.

A few steps away, beautiful flower arrangements have adorned the window display of City Bloom (T. 02-2233-1820) since August 2017. “Older locals told me this street would be too slow for business. But actually, customers are on the rise and there are regulars now,” says Jooyeong Son. “There are plenty of things nearby to attract young people, like the bakery and all of the bookstores around.”

Independent bookstores are a local pastime on Geumnidan-gil. A black cat basks in the sun in the window of The Library of Proust (T. 010-8988-2682), a small store overflowing with used books and books from smaller publishers. Seosilli (T. 010-4597-1558) reflects the same love for literature, with volumes filling the shelving that covers the shop floor to ceiling. And guests of all ages come to Kamome Picture Books (T. 010-6510-5065), its bright blue awning featuring its namesake seagull calling particularly young readers to flip through its limitless collection of colorful illustrated books.

More than just vendors, the aforementioned shops are members and hosts of a new and growing community. Many offer regular or one-day classes, such as the bakery and florist, or weekly gatherings, like Kamome Picture Books. Each one of them a piece of Geumho-dong’s genuine character.

Enjoy a craft beer with views at Chuck’s Tap House.

Coffee Theo serves a proper cup of coffee near the Geumnam Market.

Take your time

Sunup to sundown, there is plenty for everyone to do and see in Geumho-dong and Oksu-dong. Make a day of it and allow time for unplanned tangents and lengthy breaks. Use the time to unwind, experience the sights and flavors, tour the winding roads, discover a new book and chat with the store owners. But be sure to check the opening hours before heading out — after all, it is still a sleepy neighborhood.

Lucia not only sells flower arrangements, but also hosts one-day classes.

Written by Tessa Franklin

Photographed by Dylan Goldby

The hillside neighborhood on the southern slope of Namsan Mountain is a layered community

“Huam-dong is a neighborhood with a rich diversity of things in it, in the very heart of Seoul.”
Lee Jun-hyeong, an architect with the architectural cooperative Dosi 0gam, sits in Huam Seojae, a shared library and study his organization operates. “You can see how Korean homes have changed over different eras and the communities those eras produced,” he explains. “I think Huam-dong is a space where you can relax while experiencing the various layers of Seoul in peace since it’s not too commercialized like Haebangchon or Yeonnam-dong.”
Indeed, exploring Huam-dong’s narrow hillside alleyways can be a bit like riding a time machine into days past. Stately houses built in mixed Western and Japanese styles, where wealthy Japanese lived during the colonial era, coexist with smaller, humbler homes built after the Korean War, when refugees from northern Korea and elsewhere settled on the slopes of Namsan Mountain. Higher in the hills, design-conscious families live in sleek, stylish homes with panoramic views of the city below.
The architectural diversity comes with demographic diversity. On the streets, elderly residents mingle with young couples and small children. Huam-dong’s urban ecology shelters everything from traditional markets and old fashioned snack stalls to hipster cafés and hot restaurants trending on Instagram. And unlike some of Seoul’s more gentrified districts, the neighborhood still feels like a neighborhood, an organically developed space where people actually live as well as visit, a minor miracle given its position between the up-and-coming Seoul Station area and increasingly trendy Haebangchon.

The 100 Food Truck is a very scenic spot to enjoy a meal.

In Namsan’s embrace

Huam-dong is wedged into a steep valley on the southern slope of Namsan Mountain, just below Seoul’s old city walls. The steep hillsides and streams flowing down the mountain discouraged large-scale settlement. After Japan’s forced annexation of Korea in 1910, however, many wealthy Japanese settled in the area, which was near major institutions of imperial power such as the colonial central bank, the government-general, the railroad and the sprawling Japanese army camp at Yongsan. Their homes blended Western exterior elements with Japanese interior elements, including tatami mats. These homes, called “culture houses” or munhwa jutaek, reflected Japanese efforts to Westernize in the early 20th century.
Though the Japanese left in 1945, many of their homes survive, easily recognized by their pointy, gabled roofs, often with dormer windows. The Seoul Museum of History believes over 300 of these houses remain in Huam-dong. Most are still homes, lived in by Korean families who took over the houses in 1945 or after. Some, however, have been repurposed. One such place is Anarchy Bros (T. 070-4069-6356), a popular café and pub near Sookmyung Women’s University Station combining Japanese woodwork with beam projections of music videos on the wall. The guest house Ji Wol Jang (www.jiwoljang.com) was the site of the specious villa of a Japanese railroad executive.
After the Korean War, many families fleeing what is now North Korea settled on the slopes of Namsan Mountain, forming dense communities of narrow alleys and humble homes climbing the hillside, their layers connected by flights of concrete steps. These neighborhoods, once common in Seoul, have largely disappeared from the city. In Huam-dong, however, they remain, even if some of the homes are being converted into cafés and bed-and-breakfasts. As you climb the hills, you might catch a glimpse of Namsan Mountain at the end of a narrow alleyway, or get a panoramic view of southern Seoul with its skyscrapers and rolling hills of homes and offices. Naturally, you can enjoy the best views from the top of the hill — from Namsan Public Library, Yongsan Public Library, the old fortress wall or one of the eateries with open rooftops such as The 100 Food Truck or Oriole (see the Dining and Nightlife sections).
Huam-dong has a vibrant outdoor market, too, one blessed with a dramatic location in the shadow of the futuristic Centreville Asterium Seoul apartment complex.

Mid Century Mood Coffee’s Wave Toast is an Instagram favorite.

Run by achitectural cooperative Dosi Ogam, Huam Seoje is a shared study and library.

Youthful vibe

Though Huam-dong is an old neighborhood, younger people find it an increasingly attractive place to live and work, drawn by the views, the central location, the cozy atmosphere and, of course, the relatively cheap rents. As new cafés and restaurants pop up throughout the area, word of the area’s charms is getting out, especially on social media. This has some locals worried. Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan-gil, the latter now a byword for gentrification, are within walking distance, after all.
For now, however, Huam-dong remains mostly residential. Moreover, some of neighborhood’s more recent arrivals have taken pains to respect the local character and involve residents in their activities.
The architectural cooperative Dosi 0gam (www.facebook.com/dosi0gam), formed by a team of young architects, opened its office in the neighborhood in an old house near Huam Market. It also operates two shared spaces — Huam Seojae, a shared study, and Huam Jubang, a shared kitchen where young people who live in the area can cook and share a meal. The cooperative sketches historic homes in the neighborhood, publishes a magazine and sponsors other cultural activities, too.
Just down the alley from Huam Jubang Is Café Woorida (T. 070-8886-1210), a tiny renovated space run by a returned local that makes up what it lacks in size with friendliness and delightful concoctions that include double cream mochas, matcha cream lattes and even butter coffee.
In a second floor overlooking the rotary in front of Yongsan Middle School, the café Sowolgil Milyeong (02-779-1992) offers more than just beverages and baked goods in an exceptionally cozy setting. Its owner, Kim Gyu-wan, a long-time resident of Huam-dong, has spent years documenting the neighborhood’s history. His maps and paintings adorn the walls of his café, which also serves as a local salon.
Another lovely spot with some local history is Café Hooam-dong (010-2251-8232), on the main road to Yongsan High School. As its name would suggest, the owner really loves the neighborhood, and her café doubles as a local rest spot. The shop roasts its own coffee, too.
The more artistically minded should stop by Wooyeon Sujib (02-778-0759), a craft space hidden in an alleyway below the old city walls, not far from the Hilton Hotel. The shop offers classes in a variety of crafts, including string art and lighting crafts. It also teaches classes at local schools.
Young creatives are giving Huam-dong a bit of flair, too. A few houses up from Huam-dong Sejae is Mid Century Mood Coffee, a.k.a. MND Coffee (02-6449-0177), where the design takes its cues from mid-century American hotels. Its Wave Toast, served with lashes of pastel pink or blue cream cheese, draws the Instagram crowd.
Man Two Ron (070-7776-3333), a macaron shop run by — sit down for this — two dudes, combines simplicity with a macaron line-up that includes classics and creative experiments such as sweet pumpkin and Injeolmi powder. Hidden in a hole-in-the-wall near Huam Market, I Like Question (ilikeq.co.kr) sells hand-crafted scarfs and hand towels. These shops, and others mentioned in this issue of SEOUL, add a bit of chic to Huam-dong’s earthy grit.

Info.

Sookmyung Women’s University Station (Line 4), Exit 3. From there, you can catch Bus 202, which takes you to Yongsan Middle School Rotary.

Written and photographed by
Robert Koehler

A stroll through Sangam-dong’s Oil Tank Culture Park is a journey of the senses that can spark your imagination. As you move between the tanks, the remains of an abandoned oil storage facility, you take in the beauty of Maebongsan Mountain, the backdrop of the park, noticing how well the rusted tanks blend in with the trees and the grasses.

Sometimes, it’s almost as if you’ve been transported to another part of the world far from the bustling metropolis of Seoul.

Though Oil Tank Culture Park might be Sangam-dong’s latest draw, it’s not the only the reason to visit the district. Digital Media City offers opportunities to experience Korean entertainment companies and world-class digital media on an industrial scale. World Cup Park, meanwhile, awaits with a system of five sunbathed parks from which to choose. With a hint of gentrification and a few foodie-worthy restaurants popping up, Sangam-dong will surprise you with a range of dining options sure to satisfy everyone from locals to tourists.

By reusing a historical site, Oil Tank Culture Park maintains continuity with the past.

Oil Tank Culture Park

The concept of repurposing abandoned oil tanks into a cultural space for the public is one that has captivated the imagination of the urban planning communities around the world. The most successful example of this can be seen at the Tate Modern, London’s famous art gallery. Architects of the Herzog & de Meuron firm led the project of converting the subterranean oil tanks of the former Bankside power station in London into a cultural space dedicated to exhibiting live art. There’s also Tank Shanghai where Chinese art collector Qiao Zhibing is planning to open a combination art museum and recreation facility built from five empty oil tanks standing on the shores of the Huangpu River.

Last of a series of urban renewal projects in Sangam-dong, the transformation of the Mapo Oil Reserve Base into an Oil Tank Culture Park showcases the Seoul Metropolitan Government’s effort to revitalize the abandoned oil storage facility and return the land to the citizens. Located just across the west entrance of World Cup Stadium in Sangam-dong, Oil Tank Culture Park was originally an oil reserve facility constructed in 1976 in response to the oil crisis of 1973. Five underground storage tanks were placed at the foot of Maebongsan Mountain to store petroleum to prepare for emergency situations. When the World Cup Stadium was being constructed just across the road, it was classified as a hazardous facility and permanently shut down in 2000.

The Oil Tank Culture Park hosts exhibits and other cultural events.

As one of the first projects initiated by Mayor Park Won-soon after taking office, the Seoul Metropolitan Government led the renewal project with six rounds of public hearings and contests which allowed citizens, students and construction experts to participate and contribute ideas on how the space should be utilized. In 2013, a public consensus was reached that the site of the oil storage facility should be turned into an eco-friendly culture complex that can be the venue for various cultural activities including performances, exhibitions and festivals. The following year, an international design competition was held, and design plans were submitted by various architectural firms.

“We were able to win the bid because of our dedication to respecting the existing topography of the land and taking the archaeological approach of carefully excavating the tanks from their surroundings,” said Baek Sang-jin, director of RoA Architects who submitted the winning design plan, “Petro: Reading the Story of the Site.” Construction of the site began in 2015 and the city government went to great lengths to reuse as much of the materials as possible from the existing five oil tanks, from interior and exterior walls to the retaining walls. In line with the global trend towards revitalizing abandoned or underused spaces without demolishing the existing infrastructure, there was a conscious effort to preserve the history of the Mapo Oil Reserve facility.

Among the five existing tanks, Tanks One and Two have seen the most transformation. Tank One has been turned into a multipurpose glass pavilion while Tank Two is an outdoor amphitheater perfect for performances when the weather warms up. Tanks Four and Five are mainly spaces for exhibitions and cultural events, and Tank Three has been left intact. Tank Six, which houses a café, conference rooms and administrative offices, is the only structure that was newly constructed using metal sheets from two existing tanks. It now functions as a community center that offers classes and a venue for hosting various cultural events. Visitors will soon be able to take curated tours of the Oil Tank Culture Park, and more information about future events is available on their Naver blog page (culturetank.blog.me) as well as their Facebook page.

Oil Tank Culture Park’s gritty textures have proven popular with the public.

Digital Media City

Considered the gateway to the northwestern region of Seoul, Sangam-dong district was part of a massive urban renewal project undertaken by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. Under the Sangam New Millennium City Development Plan (2000), the area was initially intended to be developed as a residential district to address housing shortages in the late 1990s, but plans for developing the greater Sangam-dong area were modified to build a sustainable town with futuristic residential complexes in the wake of the 2002 FIFA World Cup and the construction of World Cup Stadium. A key part of the New Millennium Town Development plan was Digital Media City (DMC), a state-of-the-art digital media entertainment cluster that was established with the goal of becoming the world’s leading producer of digital media content and the most sought-after business center in Northeast Asia. It is also home to many of Korea’s top broadcasting companies like MBC, SBS and JTBC. Attractions include the DMC Gallery, Digital Media Street, Digital Pavilion and the Korean Film Museum, the last one a must visit for Korean film fans. With an audio guide available in English, Japanese and Chinese, visitors can get a crash course in the history of Korean film. For those who might be in the mood for a flick, the Film Reference Library allows visitors to take out and watch a movie for free.

The DMC is home to many of Korea’s biggest media companies.

World Cup Park

Along with the DMC, another important aspect of the Sangam New Millennium City Development Plan was the development of World Cup Park, a system of five parks built on the site of a former landfill. As a result of rapid urbanization and the economic and population growth in the 1970s, parts of Sangam-dong became massive landfills that housed much of Seoul’s municipal solid waste. As city officials realized that these landfills could no long handle the environmental damage done by the disposal of such vast amounts of waste, the Seoul Metropolitan Government launched a landfill recovery project to transform the landfill site into an eco-friendly park that promotes the harmonious coexistence of man and nature. It has since become a new landmark of Seoul that attracts over 10 million visitors annually and offers a wide range of special programs including performances and festivals.

By far the most popular of the five parks, Haneul Park is well-known to locals and tourists alike because of the Seoul Silver Grass Festival that takes place every October when the grass, transplanted from Jeju, is in full bloom. For those who are more interested in a peaceful park with campgrounds, park golf, and a beautiful view of the Hangang River, Noeul Park is the place to head to. For camping and park golf, reservations are needed.

Though beautiful today, Noeul Park was once a giant landfill.

Signs of gentrification

Sangam-dong is not exactly known as a foodie destination. However, if you happen to be hungry while in the area exploring, there is no shortage of restaurants and cafés. Perhaps not as noticeable as in areas like Hapjeong, Sangsu-dong, and Ikseon-dong, gentrification is slowly peeking its head into parts of Sangam-dong. Tucked away in the unassuming back alleys of the old part of Sangam-dong are a few restaurants worth noting. Bistro Ever (T. 02-303-7074), founded by partners Ji Joong-hyeok and Moon Hye-i n, is a multi-functioning bistro/café/bar that has become the “foodie spot” in town. With a background as a pastry chef, Moon started Ever Deli in Seochon. When she met Ji, they opened Bistro Ever in Sangam-dong. Freshly baked bread from Ever Deli is delivered each day to go deliciously with their seasonal menu of salads and pizzas. Most surprising is their huge list of domestic and imported bottled beers as well as their selection of world wines. Right next door is another noteworthy restaurant that specializes in Italian pastas. Trattoria Molto (T. 02-303-1022) has received the Michelin symbol of “The Plate,” which means that you can expect quality food cooked with fresh ingredients. Owner-chef Oh Hui-seok is also a wine aficionado and he is preparing to open a wine shop just across from the restaurant, so it might just be worth your while to venture out to this part of town.

Haneul Park transformed a mountain of garbage into one of the city’s most rejuvinating spots.

MORE INFO

World Cup Stadium Station (Line 6)

Written by Jennifer Chang
Photographed by Dylan Goldby

You don’t have to go to Gangwon-do to enjoy winter sports.

You don’t even have to leave the city limits, in fact.

Ice skating — the art of moving across frozen water on shoes onto which blades have been affixed – is one of Seoul’s favorite winter pastimes, if the crowds at the ice rinks are anything to go by. In terms of skating venues, Seoul’s greatest strength is its diversity — the city has a place for all budgets and occasions. In this issue, SEOUL introduces four of our favorites.

Seoul Plaza Ice Skating Rink

Arguably the city’s best-known ice rink, Seoul Plaza Ice Skating Rink returns after a year’s absence, when the metropolitan authorities canceled the rink so as to avoid interfering with last year’s political demonstrations that blanketed downtown, including Seoul Plaza.

The 2018 edition of the Seoul Plaza Ice Skating Rink follows, more of less, the concept and design of the 2016 season. The builders have created a space for communication, a place where everyone — regardless of age, gender, national origin or physical ability — can enjoy winter sports. On a loudspeaker, MCs organize raffles and games, bringing skaters together for a bit of fun. The rink is a very participatory experience.

Seoul Plaza Ice Skating Rink’s design resembles a giant ice floe, one that arrives suddenly in winter but disappears just as quickly in spring. The curved envelopes of the white buildings recall the peaks of an iceberg, while the two ice surfaces — the adult rink and children’s rink — mimic floating ice. The rink also integrates with the surrounding plaza through the clever use of angles and subordinate courtyards.

As you glide along the mirrored ice, look around you. High-rise hotels and other skyscrapers surround the rink, but so, too, do buildings of more historical significance. Just across the street is Deoksugung Palace, a vestige of Seoul’s past as a royal capital. In front of the rink is Seoul’s former city hall, a colonial-era building now serving as a public library, its austere gray facade in stark contrast with the undulating glass shell of the new city hall standing just next door. This architectural cacophony of wildly divergent eras and styles captures the rich diversity of a city constantly changing, as constantly on the move as the skaters on the ice below.

Admission is just KRW 1,000 an hour — the price even includes skate rentals. Bring a pair of gloves, though, as they are mandatory on the ice. If you forget to bring a pair, you can rent some for KRW 1,000. You can borrow or rent other items, too, including helmets, socks and hand warmers.

You can purchase a ticket at the door or reserve one online. Skating lessons are offered, too. Hours are 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Sunday to Thursday; these extend to 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, with a 30 -minute break every hour. Thanks to the Winter Olympics, the rink will operate longer than usual, running until the closing ceremony of PyeongChang 2018 on Feb. 25.

GO> City Hall Station (Line 1 or 2), Exit 6
FYI> seoulskate.or.kr

Written and photographed by Romain John

Lotte Ice Rink

Lotte World has been a fixture in Seoul’s Songpa-gu area since it was built in 1989. From the outside, it’s clear that there are an array of rides and roller coasters. What you may not already know, however, is that under the giant roof next to “Magic Island” is the world’s largest indoor theme park, and that at its very heart — surrounded by all the rides and an army of employees — is an Olympic-sized ice rink.

Considering that there’s also a theme park, aquarium, water park, shopping mall and — lest we forget — the fifth tallest building in the world rolled up nice and tight into one giant complex, it’s no surprise that the Lotte Ice Rink also draws Olympic-sized crowds.

Lotte Ice Rink is the largest of the four rinks featured on these pages. Its most distinguishing feature is that it is housed under a massive sunroof four stories high. The space, and the natural light pouring in from the roof, make it feel like an outdoor rink, but with the significant upside that regardless of the weather, be it a scorching summer day or the current trend in the minus double digits, the temperature on the ice will always be comfortable enough that you can skate in whatever you wore outside. Don’t strip down too far though — all skating rinks in Korea mandate that you have long sleeves and gloves for safety reasons.

Another appealing design feature of the rink is that you can look down onto it from any of the four floors above, although the best views are from the first floor and Lotte World’s indoor balloon ride. Spectators can sit and stand rink-side free of charge. Accessing any of the upper balcony views require that you purchase a pass to the “Adventure” portion of the theme park, a minimum of KRW 22,000.

Of course, skate rentals are available at all the rinks, and don’t despair if you forgot your gloves — they sell on-site the cheap knitted ones you find taxi drivers, cashiers and butchers wearing. When the Zamboni comes to resurface the ice, sit down for a leisurely drink or even a full course meal at one of the many rink-side restaurants, as it takes at least 30 minutes for him to make his rounds.

This writer would like to re-emphasize that Lotte Ice Rink gets incredibly busy. If you hail from a nation with more than one ice hockey team or have ever skated on a frozen natural body of water, be aware this is a completely different experience. Leave the hockey stick or figure skates at home — public skating here is mostly about holding hands while going in circles. If you go against the flow you will probably get the whistle from an employee.

GO> Jamsil Station (Line 2 or 8), Exit 4
FYI> www.lotteworld.com

Written and photographed by Greg Samborski

Hyatt Ice Rink

Perched just under the iconic Namsan Tower, amongst the embassies and ambassador’s residences, is the Grand Hyatt Hotel. Its curved glass facade looks southward out over Itaewon, Gangnam and the Hangang River, offering up one of the most panoramic views of Seoul.

In the winter, the Hyatt transforms their outdoor pool into a skating rink. Arrive sunset, it’s like walking into a winter wonderland, the trees along the rink bejeweled in Christmas lights and city twinkling at you from below. Your heart would have to be colder than the ice to not feel a tinge of romance in the air.

Though it costs a pretty penny, relative to the city’s other rinks, to get into the Hyatt’s, the high price of admission ensures that the ice doesn’t feel like Gangnam Station at rush hour. The Hyatt staff warns that the place can get quite busy on weekends, but on this weekday evening, there were less than 20 people on the ice at any given time. After 7 p.m., that number fell to two.

When the Zamboni comes and you feel the urge to warm your fingers and toes, slip through the plastic flaps into the ice-side café. There’s no need to take off your skates. You will find all the usual hot drinks and alcohol beverages. Do as this writer did and try the Irish coffee — the best of both worlds. The café offers a variety of snacks, desserts and basic meals to replenish those energy reserves.

If staying warm is a priority, come during the sunny part of the day. Spectators can sit at the outdoor tables under the heat lamps or watch from the more sheltered café. If you’re into photography, the best time to visit is right after the sun sets so you can catch “blue hour.” In the winter, you will typically get a much clearer view of the city due to less particulates in the air. Remember to bundle up extra warm and don’t forget your gloves … or your loved one.

GO> Take bus No. 3 from Noksapyeong Station (Line 6), Exit 4
FYI> http://seoul.grand.hyatt.com

Written and photographed by Greg Samborski

Hyundai Live Site Light Up Ice Rink at DDP

Two Korean icons, Hyundai Motor and the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), have teamed up to mark PyeongChang 2018 with Hyundai Live Site Light Up Ice Rink. The recreational ice surface in the sunken square of the DDP, late British architect Zaha Hadid’s futuristic masterpiece, offers an experience that can only be likened to skating beneath the starship Enterprise of Star Trek fame.

For just KRW 1,000 per hour, you can glide around one of the pillars of the DDP’s imposing concrete entrance bridge. Though not as large as some of the city’s other rinks, the facility really shines — literally so, thanks to some inspired digital lighting work by Hyundai. Light sculptures and electronic snowflakes fashioned by strategically placed projectors create a magical atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot for a date.

Only 50 people are allowed on the ice at any one time. While this means you may have to wait to get on the ice, it also means you’ll waste much less time worrying about crashing into other skaters. The rink opens at 1:30 p.m., but we recommend visiting after sunset for a more romantic experience. The rink is open until 9:30 p.m. — you can also make reservations online.

Opened in 2011, the DDP gave Seoul an internationally recognized architectural monument. Located in the heart of Dongdaemun, the center of Korea’s fashion and design industries, the complex has exhibit spaces, design-related shops, restaurants and cafés, workshops and park spaces, including a section of Seoul’s old city wall. It also boasts several works of sculpture and installation art, most notably a garden of thousands of LED roses, one of the city’s most Instagrammed locations.

GO> Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station (Line 2, 4 or 5), Exit 1
FYI> www.ddp.or.kr

Written and photographed by Romain John

Seoul is a city of the arts and culture.

Almost everywhere you go, you can find spaces dedicated to the arts, from local community centers to sprawling complexes such as Seoul Art Center.

Some areas, however, are more artistically inclined than others. In this issue, we’ll explore four relatively under-appreciated art districts: Dapsimni, Makerscity Sewoon, Changsin-dong and Seongbuk-dong.

Dapsimni Antique Art Street

Also known as Janganpyeong Antique Market, Dapsimni Antique Art Street is an arcade – six arcades, actually – filled with shops selling antiques. A gritty place in an equally gritty part of Dongdaemun-gu, the market has admittedly seen better days, the lack of customers casting a bit of a pall over the place. Nevertheless, Korea’s largest antiques market is a fascinating place in which to get lost, an unofficial museum where you can find everything from ceramics from the Joseon era (1392–1910) and stone pagodas to an artisan who carves wooden penis totems.

About 140 shops housed in several large concrete structures comprise the arcade, which developed in the 1980s when antique shops from other parts of the city such as Itaewon and Ahyeon-dong congregated in the area. Early on, it was a popular with foreign residents and visitors, especially Japanese, who are well-known for their love of East Asia antiquities. Stricter laws on the export of items and a protracted slump in the antiques market have hit the arcade hard, however. Depending on when you go, you may feel you’re the only one in the place.

Many if not most of the antiques you’ll find are from other Asian countries, especially China. Several shops, however, specialize in Korean items. Yemyeongdang (T. 02-2215-5147) sells wooden items such as furniture and chests, many of its wares dating from the Joseon era. Sambodang (T. 02-2245-3851) is another place that’s been collecting Korean antiquities for decades, including some beautiful ceramic pieces from the Joseon era. And if you need a penis totem carved from a block of wood, Wangnisa in Arcade No. 5 is your place.

Compared to Insa-dong, where the antiques shops deal primarily in high-end items and modern crafts made using traditional techniques, Dapsimni’s merchants trade in more reasonably priced items. Antiquities such as Joseon ceramics may still cost several million won, of course. Most shoppers, however, find you can still find something you like without breaking the bank.

GO> Dapsimni Station (Line 5), Exit 1

Sewoon Electron Plaza

Not so long ago, many Seoulites considered the Sewoon Arcade as an eyesore, a massive concrete relic from a time that had long since passed. Constructed between 1967 and 1972, the mixed-use megastructure in the middle of Jongno was the center of Korea’s consumer electronics trade in the 1980s. Its merchants and craftsmen were so good, it was said, they could build even submarines or missiles when they got together. By the 2000s, however, many of the electronics merchants had moved out and the arcade was in ill repair. The city even decided to raze the site.

In 2014, however, the city rescinded the demolition order, deciding instead to preserve and rejuvenate the historical building and its surroundings. The Dasi (Again) Sewoon Project aimed to turn the old arcade into a bastion of “maker culture,” a movement fusing technology such as digital fabrication with the DIY spirit – a “convergence of computer hackers and traditional artisans,” in the words of U.S. magazine Adweek. The project seems to be succeeding, too, as the old eyesore becomes a hot spot where the industrial and digital become one.

Embodying this spirit, Fab Lab Seoul is a digital fabrication laboratory where you can use 3-D printers and other devices to build robots, drones, figurines or whatever else you’d like to make. In the old boiler room is Sewoon Basement, a workshop and classroom run by the University of Seoul where students use robots to make ceramics and other crafts. The old boilers have been preserved, too, creating a space blending the industrial and digital ages.

The rejuvenation of the Sewoon Arcade is attracting a great many artists and artisan, young and old. The Sewoon Makers’ Cube is a space for startups. A couple of trendy new bakeries and cafés have opened up, too. Horangii Coffee offers not only coffee, but Vietnamese sandwiches, too. Green Dabang is a coffee shop during the day and a wine bar at night.

Not to be missed is the rooftop space. The “Roof of Seoul,” as it is called, is an observatory/cultural space/urban garden that is open to the public. With views of Jongmyo Shrine, Mt. Bugaksan and the surroundings Euljiro district, it may offer the most inspiring vistas in the city.

GO> Jogno 3-ga Station (Line 1), Exit 12

Changsin-dong

Changsin-dong is one of Seoul’s most underrated neighborhoods. The gritty hillside community overlooking Dongdaemun is Seoul’s “garment district,” its army of small-scale needlepoint artisans producing much of what is sold at nearby Dongdaemun Market. Climbing through the tangle of alleyways, you are accompanied at all times by the sound of sewing machines, the sight of steam rising from workshop vents and the woosh of passing motorcycles carrying goods and materials to and from Dongdaemun. Many of the workrooms boast chic signs by Gong Gong Gong Gan (T. 070-7626-5782), a social enterprise with a workshop near the top of the hill where it engages in a variety of social and artistic pursuits, including designing upcycled fashion.

Changsin-dong has an artistic side, too. Nam June Paik, the father of video art, lived in the district for 13 years, from 1937 to 1950. His old home has been converted into a museum, the Nam June Paik Memorial House, which opened in March of 2017. Operated by the Seoul Museum of Art, the restored Hanok hosts exhibits of work by and about the artist and hosts lectures and other educational programs.

Park Soo Keun, one of Korea’s most beloved modern painters, lived and worked in the area for 11 years, from 1952 to 1963. Street art pays tribute to the painter, whose work depicted simple scenes of pastoral life. Well-intentioned the installations may be, but a more interesting tribute are the handmade dolls, bags and other handicrafts at Danjiya Noolja, a shop-cum-showroom at the top of the hill. The items are based on “A Girl Tending to an Infant,” one of Park’s best known works. Get a coffee at Dal Café next door, too.

Also at the top of the hill is Changsin Communication Art Workshop Center, a workshop where the Jongno Foundation for Arts and Culture conducts community art programs, including classes on needlepoint, candle-making and other crafts. The center also has a rooftop observatory offering panoramic views of Mt. Namsan, Dongdaemun Market and Seoul Fortress Wall.

A short walk from Dongdaemun Market, Changsin Alley Market is a vibrant traditional market best known for its s spicy pigs’ feet, or maeun jjokbal. The area is also home to “Little Nepal,” a collection of restaurants and shops catering to the city’s Nepali community.

GO> Dongdaemun Station (Line 1), Exit 3

Seongbuk-dong

Seongbuk-dong is a quiet district nestled in the lower slopes of Mt. Bugaksan, the old guardian peak that protected Seoul from the north. Seoul’s well-heeled and foreign diplomats favor the neighborhood for its relaxed vibe, leafy surroundings and inspiring views over the city. As the tranquility also lends itself to artistic pursuits, the area is also home to a couple of museums and other places of cultural interest.

In 2013, the old district health center was remodeled into an arts space named Seongbuk Young Art Space. Focusing on the visual arts, the museum hosts special exhibits by experimental new artists and promotes the local arts scene through participatory programs such as workshops, tours, art and music therapy sessions and community arts programs to help disadvantaged segments of society. In spring, it organizes the Seongbuk Arts Commons, a tour of workshops of young artisans in the area accompanied by performances. The Seongbuk Museum of Art, located further up the road, hosts exhibits of work by more established artists.

Though Seongbuk-dong’s residents are mostly well-to-do, the district is also home to one of the city’s few remaining “moon villages,” or daldongne, working-class communities formed on hilltops after the Korean War. Bukjeong Village is a picturesque collection of old homes perched on a hill just beneath Seoul’s old city wall. While many of the residents are elderly, young artisans, actors and designers are moving in, too, attracted by the quiet and the cheap rents. They’ve converted some of the old homes into galleries and workshops, adding a dash of youthful creativity to the community.

GO> Hansung University Station (Line 4), Exit 6

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Hongdae’s Greycouch is not just a guest house. It’s an experiment in interior design.

Greycouch is a jewel – only two months after opening, it has been featured in eminent interior design publications,  domestic and international. Not many places can boast such thoughtful design.

Situated in one of the few remaining places in Hongdae where gentrification hasn’t totally crushed creativity, Ryu Taehyun built his guesthouse. He is an interior designer who studied in New York and has since worked in Seoul, where he has assumed the challenging task of changing the way interiors are conceived in Korea.

Subverting design norms

Today’s norm is to place all the furniture along the walls in order to clear as much space as possible in the center, making the place appear large. The unoccupied floor becomes the center of social activities. White and wood predominate.

At Greycouch, Ryu has turned that norm on its head, compartmentalizing spaces to conserve each one’s function, comfort and privacy. Accordingly, you won’t find a lot of unused space.

Ryu – who defines himself as a couch potato – has also designed each room not around empty space but rather around a vital piece of furniture, namely, the sofa.

Because of the Hongdae area’s notoriously high real estate prices, Ryu had to make do with a fairly small surface area. To cope, he built a four-story building with each floor having a different purpose: the second floor is a sleeping area with bathroom, the third is the social area with a kitchen and a living room and the fourth is also a resting area with two beds and a bathroom. The fourth also allows access to a cozy rooftop terrace where you can enjoy the evening air.

A human experience

To make the building feel like one, he opted for transparent glass stairs that run through the middle of the structure, thus adding one more space separator to all the living areas.

Finally, the exterior had to be addressed. Being a man of interiors who strongly believes that the inside of a home matters more than the outside, he left the four facades unadorned as nude concrete surfaces to give them an unfinished look and, more importantly, to encourage you to focus on the inside. The color the cement is enshrined in the house’s name, Greycouch.

The glass stairs in themselves present a unique experience to whoever uses them. The accessibility of everything around you on each floor and the human-centered, divided design ensure that your stay at Greycouch will significantly enrich your experience in Seoul as a whole.

More Info

41, World Cup buk-ro 9-gil, Mapo-gu

Contact info:
Ryu Taehyun
taehyun6202@naver.com
010-4748-6202

Written and photographed by Romain John