Yeongju soothes the soul with history, traditions and inspiration

Yeongju is a land of healing.

From old Confucian academies where the spirit of Korea’s scholars live on to serene Buddhist temples with majestic mountain vistas, the southwestern town at the foot of the Sobaeksan Mountains offers visitors many opportunities to relax, recharge and rejuvenate. With spectacular views and rich local traditions, the town exudes a restorative energy that salves the physical and psychological wounds of urban life. Though easy to access as a major railway hub, the city is still relatively under-appreciated as a travel destination, meaning you can enjoy the bucolic charms in relative peace and tranquility.

The seonbi spirit

The seonbi spirit is alive Yeongju. The virtuous scholars of Joseon (1392-1910), men who forsook prestigious and powerful positions in the royal bureaucracy to live quiet lives of integrity and academic pursuit, the seonbi were old Korea’s heart and soul. They were philosophers and poets who remained true to their convictions, often at great risk to their lives and property. Working for good, refusing to compromise with injustice, they could “look at the heavens without a bit of shame.”

Blessed with high mountains, deep valleys and winding river, a landscape that lends itself to scholastic contemplation, Yeongju has produced many a seonbi over the centuries. There’s no more breathtaking evidence of this than Sosu Seowon, a historical Confucian academy hidden in a forest near the hamlet of Punggi. Punggi magistrate Ju Se-bong, himself a scholar of considerable renowned, founded the school in 1543 to pay tribute to the great academic and local son An Hyang (1243-1306), the man who brought neo-Confucian thought from China. Though private Confucian academies, or seowon, would become commonplace in Joseon, with many scholars establishing such schools throughout the countryside, Sosu Seowon was the progenitor of them all. Crucially, it was the first to receive a royal charter, with the court bestowing onto the school a signboard written by King Myeongjong himself.

Like Korea’s other great seowon, Sosu Seowon enchants the visitor with an understated charm, its modest, rustic beauty an architectural expression of Confucian virtue. The cluster of wooden lecture halls and pavilions, surrounded by wooded hills and with a stream to its right, blends in harmoniously with its surroundings. Typical of seowon, which combined academic and spiritual functions, there’s also a memorial shrine to several great Confucian scholars, including An Hyang.

The most beautiful spot, however, is the Chwihandae Pavilion, a small wooden gazebo hidden in the woods just across the stream near the entrance of the academy.

Right next to Sosu Seowon is Seonbichon Village, a folk village of sorts where visitors can learn about and experience the seonbi tradition, with programs ranging from Korean calligraphy classes to traditional weddings and making rice cakes. Several historical homes, including both tile roofed aristocratic houses and thatched roof commoner dwellings, have been relocated to the village; some have been repurposed as guest houses. It’s a very pleasant spot in which to stroll and snap some photos.

Temple of the Floating Rock

Of Korea’s countless Buddhist temples, Buseoksa Temple may be the most beautiful.

Named for a large stone that seemingly floats next to the sancturary’s main hall, Buseoksa, or “Temple of the Floating Rock,” is a masterpiece of traditional architecture. Sitting high on the slopes of Mt. Bonghwangsan, the complex perched on a series of nine stone terraces, the temple makes masterful use of its surroundings, offering inspiring views of the mighty Sobaeksan Mountains, especially at sunset. To reach the main courtyard, visitors must climb nine flights of stone steps for a total of 108 steps. In Buddhism, nine and 108 are significant numbers, the first representing the nine degrees of rebirth before you can enter Nirvana, the second signifying the 108 defilements that torment the human condition. Accordingly, as you climb the steps, you are symbolically reborn, shedding defilements before you at last enter the temple’s main courtyard and, metaphorically, Nirvana.

Uisang Daesa, one of the greatest monks of classical Korea, founded the temple in 676. The monastery is a virtual museum of religious architecture and art, home to no fewer than five National Treasures and many other important pieces of tangible heritage. Efforts are currently underway to register the temple on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The jewel in Buseoksa’s crown is its magnificent main hall, or Muryangsujeon. The current structure dates from 1376, making it one of only a handful of surviving wooden buildings from the Goryeo Kingdom. The hall, which enshrines the Amitabha Buddha at its west end, exudes a effortless elegance with its earthy tones and simple roof bracketing.

Near Buseoksa is Mt. Sobaeksan and the eponymously named Sobaeksan National Park. Reaching a height of 1,439.5 meters, Mt. Sobaeksan is not an especially challenging hike, its main ridge gently undulating through a series of peaks topped by great fields of grass. It’s a long walk, though, especially if you walk the entire ridge, which can take you two days. With little tree cover, it can get quite windy as well.

For something a bit more relaxing, try the National Forest Healing Center, a nationally operated spa surrounded by dense forests on the lower slopes of Mt. Sobaeksan. The center offers a variety of short-term and long-term therapy programs designed to bring physical and psychological healing to the world-weary. It’s a very holistic experience, with pools, saunas, forest walks, gardens, meditation classes, healthy meals, rooms without televisions and more. See the website (http://daslim.fowi.or.kr) for more details.

Island in a stream

In the hamlet of Munsu-myeon, nestled on a remote oxbow where the Naeseongcheon and Yeongjucheon streams come together, is a picturesque village of 100 or so souls, mostly descendants of the Bannam Park and Yean Kim clans, who began settling the bend in the river in the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. Museom Village, the name of which translates as “Island in a Stream,” boasts many old Korean-style homes, including over a dozen historical homes from the late Joseon era. The peaceful community is like a smaller version of Hahoe Village, a Joseon-era oxbow village in the neighboring town of Andong that was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2010.

For most of its history, Museom Village was an isolated place virtually unknown outside of Yeongju. This is changing, however, as television and Instagram conspire to put the community on the tourist map. Some homes are now guest houses, restaurants and cafés, and indeed, the village is one of the better places in Yeongju to stay.

Museom Village’s biggest draw, by far, is its quaint single-lane log bridge, which snakes its way for 150 meters across the stream to link the village with the outside world. For over three centuries, this was the only way to get to the village. A concrete road bridge was added in 1979, but most visitors have a go at crossing the narrow foot bridge anyway. On a weekend, the foot bridge can get quite crowded. Early risers, though, are rewarded by a bridge that’s not only empty, but also blanketed in early morning mist.

More Info

STAY> A major railroad transportation junction, Yeonju has many reasonably priced hotels and motels. For something a bit more sophisticated, though, try the Goeheon Old House (T. 054-636-1755) or Ueom Old House (T. 054-637-1537), two historical mansions outside of town. You could also stay in Seonbichon Village or Museom Village.

EAT> Museom Sikdang, in Museom Village, offers delightful spreads with broiled fish, cheonggukjang, rice and side dishes.

Jjolmyeon, a bowl of chewy noodles served with a tangy sauce, is something of a local favorite. Try Jungang Bunsik or Nadeuri Bunsik in downtown Yeongju for this cheap dish.

GO> Trains to Yeongju depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station (travel time: 2 hours, 45 minutes). Alternatively, you can take a bus from Gangnam Express Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 40 minutes).

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Enjoy the waves and commune with nature in Korea’s surfing capital

The atmosphere is laid back. Gone is the ppali ppali, or “hurry up” mood that is so typical of Korean life these days. Instead, people are lounging, cruising the streets on longboards, enjoying a beverage, or getting ready to hit the waves for a surf session. This is Yangyang. This unassuming fishing and farming area has become one of the hottest surfing destinations in Korea.

Yangyang County is located in Gangwondo, in the northeastern part of the South Korean peninsula. With a population of less than 50,000, one would be forgiven for writing it off as a sleepy country town. However, Yangyang is blessed with natural beauty that has made it a popular destination for people from all over the country and the world. Located on the eastern seaboard right between Gangneung and Sokcho, Yangyang is lined with numerous white sand beaches, picturesque rock formations and sunrise views that the eastern part of the peninsula is so famous for.

Jukdo Beach

Jukdo Beach is one the top destinations for surfing in Yangyang. It is said to have the largest number of surf shops in the area. Walking around Jukdo Beach and the adjacent Ingu Beach, you will see colorful buildings, a lot of which are surf shops, guest houses, cafés, pubs or a combination of all these things. It seems that many young entrepreneurs who left the big city looking for a more laid-back lifestyle can be found here. The decor is hip and the crowd is young. This is quite understandable since Seoul is only a couple of hours drive via the Seoul-Yangyang expressway. Crowds of people flock to the coastal town on weekends and holidays to relax and hit the waves.

Surfers of all levels can enjoy the waves here. In Yangyang, the waves are mild in the summer, which is great for beginners. Many surf shops offer lessons for those who are just starting out. As the temperatures drop in autumn in winter, the waves pick up and draw more experienced surfers. Yangyang has hosted numerous international surfing festivals over the years, many of which happen in the fall.

Before (or after) you go out and hit the waves, visitors can enjoy a wide variety of food and drink in the area.  The menus are very western, consisting of burgers, pizza, fries, nachos and other fare quite fitting for the surfer vibe of the area. Have a coffee or beer while enjoying beachfront views at Aloha Wave Kitchen and Pub. Or if you are craving craft beer, Yangyang Chemistry offers a wide variety of local brews as well as great bar chow.

Other popular activities on Jukdo beach include scuba diving, fishing or just enjoying a good swim and barbecue with family and friends.

Naksansa Temple

Visitors who are craving a more traditional or spiritual experience will enjoy Naksansa. The 1,300 year old temple was built by Uisang, one of the ancient Silla Kingdom’s greatest monks. The temple is spread out over a large area and houses numerous cultural assets. Noteable assets include a seven-story pagoda, the Hongyaemun Gate and a copper bell. There is also a large stone statue of the Bodhisattva of Mercy, the largest of its kind in East Asia.

One of the most picturesque areas of Naksansa Temple is the Uisangdae Pavillon. Built on top of a cliff by the sea, this is the place where Uisang would sit and meditate. Nearby on an opposite cliff is the Hongryeonam Temple. This small temple is built on top of a stone cave through which you can view the ocean below.

Naksansa Temple is also a Templestay destination. Participants of this cultural program can experience the life of Buddhist practitioners, from early morning communes with nature, meditation and connecting with your inner voice. What better place to do this than among the pine trees, seaside cliffs and tranquil surroundings of Naksansa.

Sunrise and landscapes

Yangyang’s position along the eastern seaboard makes it an ideal place to view the sunrise. Photographers and landscape enthusiasts will particularly appreciate the prominent rock formations protruding from the sea. Add the uniquely-shaped pine trees, which are ubiquitous in this area, and you have beautiful landscapes that are reminiscent of ancient Eastern landscape paintings.

Hajodae is one of the best places to view such a landscape. Located on the eastern tip of Hajodae Beach, this lookout features a well-known unmanned lighthouse as well as a lone pine tree perched on a cliff. It is the perfect place go for a morning walk and view the sunrise.

Yangyang also has other beautiful landscapes located further inland. Micheongeol Valley is a lesser-known, and in effect, a more untouched destination. This valley has a rich forest, clean water and rock formations.

There are also numerous ecological parks in Yangyang. These protected areas feature an abundance of trees and plants, which is great for nature walks and exploration. One such park is the Namdaecheon Stream Salmon Ecological Park (남대천연어생태공원). The Namdaecheon stream is considered one of the cleanest in the region, and every year during autumn a large population of salmon return to this area, hence the name. The area has long walking trails, tall grass and a sea breeze that will surely ease the mind.

The mighty mushroom

Yangyang has two representative products and an annual festival for each of them.  One of these products is salmon.  Every year during autumn, 70% of Korea’s salmon population returns to Yangyang. The result is fresh catches of salmon and a wide variety of grilled, fried and raw salmon dishes for people to enjoy. The Yangyang Salmon Festival highlights this with contests, exhibitions, performances and other events.

The other representative product of Yangyang is the Pine Mushroom, or Songi. These mushrooms, which grow naturally on the Taebaeksanmaek Mountain Ridge, feature a thick texture and strong scent. Like the salmon festival, the Yangyang Songi Festival also features a wide variety of activities and festivities to celebrate the local delicacy.

Visitors can enjoy pine mushroom dishes at several establishments around the area. This writer recommends the Songi Mushroom Hotpot at Matsutake Mushroom Town.

More Info

STAY> Yangyang has a wide variety of accommodation options, from high-end resort hotels, such as the Sol Beach Resort (T. 1588-4888), to motels and pensions.  Those going there for surfing might find it most convenient to stay at the guest houses provided by the surf shops in the area.

EAT> For seasonal salmon dishes as well as other local fish dishes such as Yangyang’s staple ddugeoritang, check out Cheonseon Restaurant (T. 33-672-5566).
For a wide variety of mushroom dishes including the well-known pine mushroom hotpot, visit Matsutake Mushroom Town (T. 33-672-3145).

GO> Buses to Yangyang Intercity Terminal depart from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal or Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours 50 minutes).  There is also the Yangyang International Airport (YNY), which also serves the nearby areas of Sokcho, Gangneung and Pyeongchang.

Written and photographed by Roy Cruz

Valleys, streams and waterfalls around Gapyeong offer precious respite from the summer heat

For all the draw of Seoul’s pace and adrenaline, nothing beats the feeling when your train finally pulls out of an inner city station on the way to the countryside. The 2012 launch of the ITX express service to Chuncheon, in mountainous Gangwon-do Province east of Seoul, put another part of the provinces within easy reach. Just 40 minutes from the capital’s Cheongnyangni Station, on the Chuncheon line, lies Gapyeong, a small town by the Bukhangang River famous for pine nuts and the annual Jarasum International Jazz Festival.

Gapyeong is also a gateway to some stunning mountain walks, where streams plunge down between huge boulders on forested hillsides, offering the ideal chance to escape the Seoul summer, clear your head and cool off in a rock pool.

One weekend in mid-July, the mountains north of Gapyeong are shrouded in low cloud. As the bus winds its way up from Gapyeong Terminal in the sleepy county capital, glimpses of well-tended vegetable plots and monsoon flowers flash through the steamed-up windows, along with restaurant signs offering anything and everything containing pine nuts. After about an hour, the bus wheezes to a standstill at Yongsudong, the last stop on the route.

Ideal weekend hike

At Yongsudong, crowds of middle-aged Koreans in colorful hiking gear mill around waiting for their buses. Many belong to sanakhoe, or hiking clubs, and have obviously just enjoyed a good meal and drink after coming down out of the clouds, their faces red no longer from exercise but from imbibing plenty of pine nut makgeolli.

From Yongsudong, a small road leads east into Jomurak Valley by the side of a mountain stream. Guesthouses and restaurants line the road at first, their owners clearing tables laden with the remains of hiking club banquets. Chained dogs pose on their kennel roofs, making defensive noises. The road quickly turns to an unsealed path and enters a forest full of birdsong and occasional chipmunks, following the stream all the way. A mile or so further up is Bonghodong Waterfall, a picturesque spot where the water tumbles down a particularly large rock face. By now, nature is undisturbed and the water is crystal clear. If you fancy a longer hike, carry on another couple of miles to the summit of Mt. Seongnyongsan. If waterfall gazing is your priority, head back down the valley to Yongsudong.

Across the 38th parallel

Where Jomurak Valley meets the main road back at Yongsudong, turn right and head north. This two-mile walk is not particularly glamorous as you’ll need to hug the side of the road and look out for traffic. It’s scenic, though, with Gapyeongcheon Stream flowing below the road all the way. After a mile or so, signs will tell you that you’re crossing the 38th parallel, once the border between North and South Korea. When the Korean War armistice was signed in 1953, territorial gains and losses by each side meant that the border ended up further south in the western part of the peninsula, and further north here in the east.

A little beyond the 38th parallel, on the right, a sign indicates the presence of a sinang yujeokji, a site where communities of Koreans lived in dugout shelters during the Japanese colonial period to escape forced worship at Shinto shrines, compulsory adoption of Japanese names, religious persecution and conscription. Up here in the mountains, they made charcoal and cut sleepers for the new Seoul-Chuncheon railway and observed their own religions in freedom, remaining until after national liberation in 1945.

Half a mile more of walking takes you to Jeongmok Yongso, a blue pool fed by a small waterfall. “Yongso” means “dragon pond”; the spot is so named because of a legend that tells how a dragon, ascending to Heaven, was spotted by a pregnant woman and fell back to earth, creating the pool (many Korean legends and folktales feature dragons living below pools and rivers).

Cross the rainbow bridge that offers the best views of Jeongmok Yongso and your long march up the road will be rewarded with a path that meanders though beautiful woodland, following yet another stream, to Mujuchae Waterfall. In pre-modern times, this utterly charming spot is said to have been a favorite place for military officers to drink, dance around and eat wild vegetables, presumably due to the unavailability of fried chicken. Whether you arrive there sober or inebriated, you’ll be glad to find such a cool, quiet spot within easy reach of Seoul.

Back in and around Gapyeong

There’s plenty more hiking up various nearby peaks if you’re not ready to come down from the mountains yet. Otherwise, head back down to Yongsudong and catch the bus towards town, where more attractions await.

Ihwawon “butterfly story” is a complex of large greenhouses containing various trees and plants, saccharine piano music and, of course, butterflies. Don’t expect swarms of them, though: they keep a low profile and you might need to sit in one spot for a while to get a close encounter. If you have curious kids in tow, they might appreciate a romp around Ihwawon for a while. It’s located in the camping ground by the river on the way from Gapyeong Station into town.

Gapyeong Rail Park offers rail bike tours along a four-kilometer stretch of the old railway, from downtown Gapyeong to Gyeonggang Station on a course that takes you on a high viaduct over the river and then along its bank. After a quick rest at Gyeonggang Station, it’s another four kilometers back again.

Hyeonam Agricultural Artifact Museum, housed in a local middle school, is a collection of some 200 traditional agricultural implements, plus some recreations of rural houses. Entry is free, so if you’re interested in pre-modern farming in Korea jump on any bus heading towards Buk-myeon and get off at Gapyeong Buk Junghakgyo. Unlike most museums, this one is closed on Sundays and open Monday to Saturday.

Songnam Art Museum

A small contemporary art museum located north of Gapyeong accessible by bus (33-1, 33-38, 50-1 or 50-3; get off at Goam Ipgu). If you’re into modern art, drop in here to look around this collection, housed in a striking neo-traditional building topped by a wooden pavilion. The entrance fee is KRW 4,000 for adults and it’s closed every Monday.

In pre-modern times, Mujuchae Waterfall was a favorite place for military officers to drink, dance around and eat wild vegetables.

More Info.

STAY> From Seoul, most people visit Gapyeong as a day trip, but if you’d like to stay, the town has lots of pension houses. There are several nice pension houses in Yongsudong, in fact. For something a bit different, however, try the luxury camping ground Moa Glamping (www.moaglamping.com).

EAT> Yongsudong has several rustic eateries serving makgeolli, fried pancakes, noodles and other local favorites. Gapyeong is famous for its pine nuts, or jat., which are used to make makgeolli and other dishes.

GO> To reach Gapyeong, take the ITX express from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station (KRW 4,000, departs roughly every hour). The journey lasts just 40 minutes.

Alternatively, take the Gyeongchun Line, part of Seoul’s extended metro network, from Sangbong Station. This journey takes close to one hour and costs around KRW 2,150 using a transport card.

From Gapyeong Station, take Bus 33-4 to Yongsudong, its last stop. From Yongsudong, its a 3km hike to Jeongmok Yongso falls.

Written by Ben Jackson
Photographed by Robert Koehler

Enjoy a summer adventure in beautiful Yeosu

The origin of the word Yeosu means good or beautiful water – which is a perfect way to describe this city. Many Koreans agree that this name refers not only to the city’s pretty coast, but also to the warm current, which allows for mild weather, even in the wintertime. Throughout the year, residents and visitors can enjoy comfortable weather and beautiful views.

Situated on the southern coast of Jeollanam-do, Yeosu is the perfect city to visit for a fun weekend getaway. With plenty of beaches and hiking spots located within the city limits, Yeosu is especially worthwhile to visit during the summer months. It has a mix of gorgeous countryside and fun city living. Since serving as the host for the 2012 Expo, this area has grown in popularity over the years. As a coastal city, it has a lot to offer, and it’s no wonder so many people choose to live and vacation here.

Soak up the sun at the beach

Only a short distance from the main city, there are a number of great beaches to visit in Yeosu. Your choice of beach depends on what kind of experience you’re looking for.

If you want to go for a nice stroll and would like to have many nearby lunch options, Ungcheon Beach is a good choice. If you prefer a relaxing and quiet area, Mosageum Beach is the perfect spot. This is a great place to sit back and have a picnic lunch. If you’re in search of a busier and more popular beach area, Manseongni Beach is known for its unique black sand and is frequented by many locals.

No matter which beach spot you choose, you will enjoy the views and relaxation. It’s recommended that you plan to see a beach sunrise while visiting Yeosu.

Explore the Expo area

In 2012, Yeosu hosted an International Expo. It lasted for three months and was a big event for South Korea. More than 105 countries took part in this experience. The area where the event was held now stands as an attraction for both locals and visitors alike. There is a park area, several restaurants and cafés, and a walkway that leads around the waterfront.

On a busy day, you may spot Yeony and Suny, the official mascots of Yeosu. You can meet and greet and get your photos taken with these cute creatures.

If you want a panoramic view of this area, stop by the Sky Tower, which is located by the Expo. What looks like a normal tower during the daytime is lit up like a rainbow during the night hours. At the top floor of this tower, you can enjoy a coffee or a snack while you get a bird’s-eye view of the Expo area through the café’s windows.

Take part in family fun adventures

Yeosu is a great place to take your family. If you’re searching for a kid-friendly activity, be sure to stop by Yeosu Aqua Planet, an aquarium located by the Expo. Here you can get up close and personal with some exotic sea life and adorable creatures. You will find jellyfish, penguins, sea lions, beluga whales, piranhas and much more. This aquarium even has underwater performances – featuring mermaids!

The Ocean Resort Waterpark is another place that families frequent during the summer months. With wave pools, slides, and spa services, there’s something for visitors of all ages. You can stay at the on-site hotel to make a whole weekend of it. For many families, a trip to this waterpark can be a summer vacation in itself.

Enjoy the views

If you want to see the vast beauty that Yeosu has to offer, it’s recommended that you check out the most popular sites in a number of ways. If you’re planning an afternoon adventure, why not head to the gorgeous island of Odongdo. There’s a walkway leading to Odongdo for easy access. For those who don’t wish to walk, a tram can be taken. In this area, you can enjoy the water fountain, beautiful walkways, and the Dragon Cave. While on the island, you can also explore the bamboo forest and lighthouse.

If you want to get a stellar view of Yeosu from up above, be sure to ride the Yeosu cable cars. The glass-floored cars will offer a view like none other! As you ride, you’ll be making your way to the island of Dolsan. This is a large island, full of adventures to be had. If visiting in the evening, you’ll see the Dolsandaegyo Bridge all lit up in a colorful display. It really looks amazing alongside the city lights. With a climb up to Dolsan Park, you can get a stunning view, while also getting some exercise. The view is especially beautiful on a clear night.

Take in the history

Yeosu is more than just its scenic coastal views and endless islands. This city is also full of unique history.

Yeosu played a big part in the Imjin War. In 1592, the Japanese invaded Korea along the southern shores. The Turtle Ship, or Geobukseon, was an armored ship with a turtle-shell-like top, which helped to protect the crewmembers. Admiral Yi Sun Shin is credited for creating this ship as well as leading Korea towards victory.

In the Jungang-dong area of Yeosu, you can see a replica of the Turtle Ship. Jinnamgwan Hall, which served as the headquarters for Admiral Yi Sun-shin and his crew, can also be explored. If you’re looking to learn more about Yeosu’s history and culture, the small on-site museum can be visited. Jinnamgwan Hall is located about a five-minute bus ride from the Yeosu Expo area, and is situated near a shopping district.

Sure, Yeosu may not be a metropolis hub like Seoul, but this small coastal city has a lot to offer. If you’re planning a weekend getaway for the upcoming summer months, Yeosu is the perfect place to visit and explore.

Yeosu is more than just its scenic coastal views and endless islands. This city is also full of unique history.

More info

STAY> There are a lot of hotel options throughout Yeosu. If you want to stay close to the Expo area, the MVL hotel is a popular hotel choice. The Ocean Resort is another top-rated hotel – especially for those who plan to visit the water park.

EAT> There’s no shortage of seafood in Yeosu. Why not enjoy some grilled eel or sashimi while you’re visiting. This city and the surrounding areas also have a unique style of kimchi, known as Dolsan Gat Kimchi. These mustard leaves are known for being less spicy and having a unique smell. The warm climate and alkaline oil in Dolsan contribute to this. Give it a try!

GO> The fastest and easiest way to get from Seoul to Yeosu is by train.

To get to Yeosu, ride the Seoul subway to Yongsan Station. Take the KTX to Yeosu Expo Station. Total trip time to Yeosu Expo Station is just under 3 hours.

City buses and taxies make it easy to explore the various parts of Yeosu. You can also take ferries to the multiple islands.

Written by Natasha Gabrielle
Photographed by Robert Koehler

Romantic Sunsets

West Sea village of Janghwa-ri offers an inspiring respite from the daily grind

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Written and photographed by John Steele

Since the construction of Ganghwa Bridge, the island has gradually become more similar to the Korean mainland as well as much more accessible. A variety of people, from young couples and families to hikers and photographers, visit the village daily to get away from the hectic lifestyle in Seoul and enjoy the natural beauty the island has to offer. Couples are seen wearing mud boots up to their knees, walking hand and hand as they try to navigate the slippery terrain of the mudflats. Families come out for day trips or a weekend adventure to camp in the countryside or stay in one of the many pensions located in the aforementioned rolling hills, which have a beautiful view that overlooks the sea.

Hikers and older couples take leisurely strolls through the hills and farms or challenge themselves on Mt. Manisan, a mountain located close to the village. With a peak of 470 meters above sea level, Manisan is the highest point on Ganghwado and offers a clear view of both the Yellow Sea and the Korean mainland. This mountain is most known for Chanmseongdan, a stone altar where Dangun, the legendary founder of the Korean nation, is said to have held sacrificial rites to heaven.

Because the village is positioned on the west coast, it has become a famous spot for photographers to catch the sun setting behind a small island with a cluster of trees, with the mudflats in the foreground. Compared to other travel destinations, Janghwa-ri might have fewer things to see or do. But this is what attracts people. Few places like this full of this much nature, peace and charm are located this close to Seoul. In addition, Janghwa-ri has a unique, carefree and stress-relieving quality of making people feel as though they are in a totally different country for the day and can leave their worries behind. This effect is what brings people to the village, and this is what keeps them coming back.

If the stress of the big city life is getting you down, a trip to Janghwa-ri, Ganghwado, might just be what you need to recharge your batteries. The peaceful village is a lovely place for an escape with your family, significant other or camera.

EAT> Similar to other islands on the coast, Ganghwado is known for its fresh seafood dishes. Numerous restaurants there specialize in raw fish, horse crab (kkotge), seafood noodle soups, or kalguksu, spicy fish soups, and for the adventurous, broiled eel. The kalguksu in particular is highly recommended, as is a side dish of seafood pajeon, or Korean style savory pancake, which is an absolutely perfect way to start off the meal.

STAY> Ganghwado is a day-trip from Seoul.

GO> Take Bus 3000 from the Sinchon Rotary to Ganghwa Intercity Bus Terminal. From there, take Local Bus #3 to the village.

Like many Korean rural villages, the entrance of the village of Wonbaegam in Baegam-ri, Jeongeup, Jeollabuk-do, is guarded by a sacred tree which is regarded as the protector of the community. Next to this tree, however, stands a 1.35 m high stone penis, said to have been placed here 300 years ago by a one Park Ing-geol, a 17th-century local renowned for his charity. The realistically hewn phallus is said to keep the village’s women faithful and help the childless produce male heirs. Villagers gather every first full moon of the year to hold sacrifices at the stone to pray for a good harvest and ward off disasters.

EAT>                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Jeongeup is in the province of Jeollabuk-do, which means almost anything you eat is bound to be good. For some good Korean banquet cuisine, try Jeongchon Sikdang (T. 063-537-7900).

SEE>
Nearby Naejangsa Temple is lovely any time of year, even if you’ll probably want to wait until autumn, when its maples turn crimson red.

DO>
If you’ve got a car, there are worse ways to spend a morning than a drive around Okjeongho Lake.

STAY>
Jeongeup has small motels, but you may be better off staying in either Jeonju or Gwangju.

GO>
Bus No. 152 takes you to Wonbaegam from downtown Jeongeup, but if you can’t wait, a taxi ride will cost you about KRW 12,000.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Koreans like to call Namhae a “treasure island,” and not without reason—the island is home to three nationally designated scenic spots and several scenic roads, an impressive total considering that the place just isn’t that big. If Namhae were located closer to Seoul, perhaps this scenic beauty would sink the island beneath a horde of tourists every weekend. As luck would have it, though, the island is just far enough away from both Seoul and Busan to allow it to retain much of its rural seaside charm, even as luxury hotels like the Hilton Namhae Golf and Spa Resort make “roughing it in the sticks” a most pleasurable experience indeed.

Drive

You don’t need to have a car to enjoy Namhae; in fact, this writer doesn’t even drive. It helps if you’ve got one, though—the island is ringed by a series of inspirational, scenic roads. The scenery starts even before you touch dirt— the two bridges that connect the island to the mainland were separately named to the list of Korea’s most scenic roadways. In fact, the bridges and the waterways they span are included in Hallyeo Haesang National Park, which links many of the southeast coast’s most scenic locations. The more eye-catching of the two is the Samcheonpo-Changseon Bridge, a road link of several spans connecting Namhae with the port of Samcheonpo. The best views of it and the surrounding islands can be had from an old signal fire station that’s a 40 min hike from Daebangsa, a temple near Samcheonpo.
Also on the Samcheonpo side is a small park just under the bridge, where locals come at night to relax and set off fireworks. Namhae Coastal Road, meanwhile, rings the entire island, taking windshield tourists through and past its countless beaches, picturesque villages, and dramatic coastal cliffs. The most popular beaches are found in the southeast—particularly visit-worthy is Sangju Eunmorae (Silver Sand) Beach, a crescent strip of white sand backed up by 100-year-old pine trees. You’ll find rental car facilities near Namhae Bus Terminal.

Terraced fields of Gacheon

One of the most scenic spots on the island is Gacheon Daraengi Village, a small fishing/farming community on the southwest corner of the island. The village is built into a steep, rugged hillside overlooking the sea; to cope with the difficult topography, villagers built an ingenious—and incredibly picturesque—series of terraced fields. The resulting landscape of terraces overlooking the sea is inspiring and, for Korea, quite exotic. Nowadays, villagers rely as much on tourism as they do on their fields, and many of the homes also serve as reasonably priced bed-and-breakfasts as well as restaurants and cafés. Colorful wall murals brighten up the place as well. Maps of the village also point out a series of scenic spots where visitors flock for obligatory “confirmation shots” to prove they’ve been. The observatory on the road above the village (a short walk from the tourist information center/public restroom) is the best vantage point, especially at sunrise.

Spiritual views

If you prefer your view-seeking with a side of spiritual enlightenment, make your way to the southeast corner of the island and head for Boriam, a Buddhist hermitage high on Mt. Geumsan (681 m). Like the Namhae bridges, the Mt. Geumsan district’s scenic beauty got it included into Hallyeo Haesang National Park; unlike the bridges, however, you’ve got to pay a small park fee to enter. Boriam Hermitage was founded in the seventh century, although most of what you see today was built relatively recently. The temple is perched just below the granite peak and provides jaw-dropping views of the sea and offshore islands. The sunrises here are worth the early wake-up time. There are buses to Boriam from Namhae Bus Terminal. From Bokgokje Parking Lot No. 1 (where local buses let you off), you can either walk a kilometer up to the hermitage or take a shuttle bus (KRW 2,000 round-trip).

Relaxing in style

For centuries, Namhae’s beauty has inspired Buddhist monks, poets, and scholars. In recent years, it’s inspired hoteliers and developers, too. If the accommodations in Gacheon are too rustic for your tastes, just down the road is Hilton Namhae Golf and Spa Resort (T. 055-860-0100), operated by the renowned hospitality chain. The seaside links draws golfers from all over Korea, and the guest rooms are what you’d expect from the Hilton. Even if you don’t have the KRW 400,000-plus you’d need to spend a weekend evening here, it’s worth visiting just for the smartly designed spa (entry: KRW 13,200), which offers views of the sea and golf course. There are outdoor pools, too, and an assortment of massage treatments (bring your wallet/pocketbook for the latter, though).

Eat>

Namhae is an island, so fish features prominently in the cuisine. Its particularly known for its myeolchi (sardines), caught in ingenious bamboo nets set up in the strait near the village of Jijok. Myeolchi ssambap (sardines, rice, and side dishes, eaten wrapped in lettuce) is a local favorite. Uri Sikdang (T. 055-867-0074) in Jijok is well-known for this dish. Baegane Myeolchi Ssambap (T. 055-867-7337), also in Jijok, is also worth trying. If you’re feeling peckish in Gacheon Daraengi Village, try Sigol Halmae Yujaip Makgeolli (T. 055-862-8381), where you can get seafood doenjang, myeolchi ssambap, noodles, and other simple dishes with a bottle of makgeolli made from locally produced quince leaves. You’ll also quickly notice that Namhae produces a lot of garlic.

Stay>

Up for a fun challenge? Drive the Namhae Coastal Road and try to find a home that ISN’T either a pension or a bed-and-breakfast. You shouldn’t be at a loss for places to stay, and you’re better off just finding a locale you’d like to wake up in and simply finding a place nearby. Half of Gacheon Daraengi Village has been turned into bed-and-breakfasts, one of the more architecturally unique being Dome House (T. 055-863-4769), an igloo-like house a local resident built on the roof of his home. For the money-is-no-object crowd, the Hilton beckons, of course, but there are some upscale pension options, too. The Hi Class-Namhae (T. 070-8220-9089) has rooms with verandas with private pools overlooking the sea for the low, low cost of KRW 850,000 during the peak season. Near Gacheon Daraengi Village is Pension Vincent, with smartly designed interiors and bathrooms overlooking the sea. Barbecue dinners are offered for free, or rather, is included in the rates, which begin at around KRW 200,000.

Go>

Buses to Namhae depart from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal, and the ride takes about 4 hours, 30 minutes.

Written and photographed by Peter DeMarco

Hwasun, a large county about an hour southeast of Gwangju, looks like any other in Jeollanam-do. People call this area the “rice basket” of Korea. Wide-open terraced fields wedged between green rolling hills are all around. Farmers sit on wooden platforms under trees to escape the sun. A lonely car passes slowly down an empty road. It’s the anti-Gangnam, the origin of Korea’s slow movement. For those willing to venture beyond Gwangju into Korea’s deep south, the intrepid traveler will find two of Korea’s hidden stone gems.

Hwasun Dolmen Park: Korea’s Stonehenge | 화순 고인돌 공원

They are nothing more than huge boulders. At first glance, you probably won’t be that impressed. The stones aren’t even propped up to form table-like structures similar to the ones at Stonehenge. But when you imagine people digging the boulders out of quarries, dragging them across the land, and placing them above graves almost 3,000 years ago, it makes you think. After you realize that you are standing in the middle of an ancient cemetery, and you feel the energy from one of the world’s most sacred sites, you begin to understand why this place is special.

A dolmen is type of megalithic (meaning “great stone” in Greek) tomb. There were megalithic cultures all around the world, in Europe, Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. Most people don’t know that Korea has more dolmens than any other place in world. In fact, 40% of all the dolmens in the world are on the Korean Peninsula. Although they are scattered around the country, most of them are found at three burial sites: Hwasun, Ganghwa, and Gochang. All three locations are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Hwasun Dolmen Park is in the middle of the countryside and runs through a small valley. There is a building at the entrance of the park that houses some excavated burial sites. A dirt road and a walking trail go through the middle of the park. It’s the perfect place to have a picnic, too. Bring your own food and drinks, though.

Unjusa: A temple like no other | 운주사

Like the dolmen park, Unjusa Temple is famous for stone, or rather, for what has been made with it. All around the temple grounds are dozens of stone Buddha statues. These aren’t your typical statues though; they are made from slabs of stone and propped up against the hills. The faces are flat and expressionless. You begin to wonder if they were even made in Korea.

Probably the thing that most people come to see is the massive reclining Buddha carved into the top of a hill. A number of stone pagodas pop up all over the temple grounds too. They are three, five, seven, and even nine stories high. All together there are about 91 stone Buddhas and 21 pagodas. Not much is known about the temple’s history. Who built it and when is still a mystery. It’s an unusual sight and should make the list of any Korean temple tour.

Stay>
Gwangju has plenty of accommodation options. At the top end there is the Ramada Plaza Gwangju (T. 062-717-7000; KRW 200,000). There are a number of motels to choose from just around the bus station. For something a little more interesting, hop in a cab from the bus station and tell them to drop you off next to the Migliore department store in Chungangro (KRW 5,000). It’s the city’s most happening hood, filled with restaurants, shops, bars, and clubs. A block down from Migliore is the Windmill Motel (T. 062-223-5333; KRW 35,000), which has basic clean rooms. If you are coming in by train, the Napoli Motel (T. 062-514-9080) is a couple blocks from the station.

FYI>
www.hwasun.go.kr/2011/en

(Hwasun-gun, Jeollanam-do | 전라남도 화순군)

GO>
Getting to Gwangju: It’s best to make Gwangju your base and explore Hwasun county from there. There are seven trains a day leaving from Seoul Station to Gwangju, and buses leave every 10 minutes.

Getting to Unjusa and the Hwasun Dolmen Park: Take bus 218 or 318 from the main bus station in Gwangju (Gwangcheon Terminal, about 1 hour 30 minutes). Not all of the buses go to Unjusa though, so be sure to confirm with the driver. The same buses also stop at the back entrance of Dolmen Park. If you hike the 2 kilometers or so to the entrance of the park, you won’t find any bus stop there. The only options for getting to Unjusa from the main entrance—where the excavated burial tombs are—are to hitchhike, hop on a passing tour bus, or call a taxi (about KRW 20,000–30,000).

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Downtown Daegu

DAEGU | 대구

Metropolis brings together history, culture and nature

Written by Robert Koehler
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Despite being Korea’s fourth largest city, Daegu gets something of a pass in a lot of tourist literature. This is a great shame, really. A bustling metropolis of 2.5 million people, Daegu is a fascinating motley of history, nature, and urban culture. Come in May, and you’re given the extra treat of seeing the Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Culture Festival, a tribute to the city’s proud history as one of Korea’s largest herbal medicine markets.

Mt. Palgongsan

Layout

Like Seoul, Daegu is located in a basin, with the sacred peaks of Mt. Palgongsan to the north and Mt. Apsan and Mt. Biseulsan to the south. This, combined with Daegu’s southeasterly, inland location, has given the city a unique climate, with notoriously hot summers and cold winters. The spring and autumn are quite pleasant, however, and the dramatic climate is perfect for growing the region’s best-known product, apples.

Daegu has two subway lines: Line 1 runs northeast to northwest, while Line 2 runs east to west. The city’s main port of entry since the advent of the KTX has been Dongdaegu Station in the east of town. The express bus terminal is located nearby, too. Most of what you’ll want to see, however, is found in the old downtown area in the center of town, near Daegu Station. To reach it, you’ll need to take the subway from Dongdaegu Station.

Donghwasa Temple

Donghwasa Temple

SEE>

HISTORY WALKS

Daegu was one of only a handful of Korean cities and town that were not captured by the communists during the Korean War. Accordingly, the city’s historic architecture was largely spared from destruction. Granted, much was lost during post-war urban redevelopment, but many of the city’s old alleyways still remain and retain a nostalgic charm. To help guide visitors through the city’s history, Daegu has linked many of its historic sites together as walking tours—you can find maps at tourist information centers throughout the city. Western visitors will no doubt find the perfectly maintained missionary homes atop the hill in back of Jeil Presbyterian Church of interest—the California bungalows from the first decade of the 20th century now serve as museums. A small missionary graveyard is found nearby, too. Across from Jeil Presbyterian Church is Gyesan Catholic Cathedral, a spectacular French-built church completed in 1902. Much more Korean are the old homes of nationalist poet Yi Sang-hwa and nationalist activist Seo Sang-don, typical Korean-style homes of the 20th century.

83 TOWER & SKYJUMP

Daegu’s answer to Seoul’s N Seoul Tower, 83 Tower offers some of the best views in the city. It also used to provide one of the most exhilarating experiences in Korea, the so-called SkyJump, which was a sort of cross between BASE jumping and a zipwire. Unfortunately, the SkyJump was shut down last year, but you can still enjoy the tower’s restaurants, lounge, galleries and, of course, views.

APSAN PARK

If you want great views but with less of a death wish, hike up Mt. Apsan (660 m), where there’s an observation platform from which you can see the entire city. If you’re pressed for time or simply lazy, there’s a cable car that will take you to the top, too.

PALGONGSAN PROVINCIAL PARK

While technically not part of Daegu proper, the peaks of Palgongsan Provincial Park are nevertheless the city’s playground. Reaching a height of 1,192 m, Mt. Palgongsan is big, tall, and crisscrossed by hiking trails. Buddhists have held the peak in particular esteem, as evidenced by its many historic temples and Buddhist sculptures carved into the granite. The park is broken up into several districts—don’t expect to see them all in one day. The park’s most popular destination is Donghwasa Temple, a large monastery with an 18th-century main hall and a 17 m Buddhist statue erected in 1992 as a plea for national reunification. Another popular destination is Gatbawi, a 9th-century Buddhist statue atop a granite ridge. Come here on New Year’s morning or the morning of the university entrance exam and you’ll find half of Daegu praying in front of the statue. Another beautiful temple on the slopes of Mt. Palgongsan is Eunhaesa. The temple has two lovely hermitages, Baekheungam and Geojoam. The latter is one of only a handful of surviving wood buildings from the Goryeo Dynasty (935–1392). Geojoam is a bit of a pain to get to—you need to take Bus 251 from the nearby county of Yeoncheon, get off at Sinwon-ri, and walk 200 m from there, but it’s well worth it. For another off-the-tourist track destination, check out the Gunwi Buddhist Triad Grotto, a.k.a. the Second Seokguram Grotto, on the north side of Palgongsan Provincial Park. To visit, take a bus to Gunwi from Daegu’s Bukbu Bus Terminal, and from Gunwi take a bus to Mt. Palgongsan.

EAT> 
One of Daegu’s most popular dishes is jjimgalbi—steamed beef ribs cooked in a red pepper sauce and garlic in a nickel bowl. It’s absolutely delightful, but spicy enough to burn you a new bodily orifice. You can find a whole alley of places serving it in Dongin-dong. Daegu is also famous for its its makchang and gopchang— basically, cow or pig intestines, served diced and grilled. Tasty, chewy, and wonderful with a shot of soju. Check out the Bukhyeon Makchang Golmok (ask your cabbie) to try it out.

NIGHT LIFE>
The bars of Samdeok-dong’s Rodeo Street are popular with Daegu’s younger crowd. You’ll find a lot of bars and clubs around Deuran-gil, a popular district of eateries and bars near Suseong Resort.

STAY>
Daegu is a big city with a wide range of accommodations. If you’d prefer something quieter, there are plenty of accommodation options in Palgongsan Provincial Park, too.

GO>
KTX trains to Dongdaegu Station depart from Seoul Station (travel time: 2 hours)

Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Culture Festival

Jeil Presbyterian Church

YANGNYEONG MARKET & DAEGU YANGNYEONGSI HERB MEDICINE CULTURE FESTIVAL (MAY 8–12)

Daegu’s best-known historic spot is Yangnyeong Market, one of Korea’s largest herbal medicine markets. During the Joseon Dynasty, this was a major herbal medicine trading post where you could find medications from Japan, China, Russia, and further afield. Today, you can find 50 herbal medicine stores, 25 clinics, 85 herbal doctors, and 20 ginseng stores. The market is also home to the Daegu Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Culture Center as well as the Petite Joong-Ang
Family Museum, a private museum run by a third-generation herbalist family. The best time to visit the market is during the Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Culture Festival, when the market hosts cultural performances, checkups by herbal doctors, hands-on programs, and more.

FYI> www.herbfestival.org
(329-5 Sincheon dong, Dong gu, Daegu ㅣ대구광역시 동구 신천동 329-5)

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