Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (Jan. 10–Feb. 1) 화천산천어축제

Korea’s biggest winter festival is more fun than a barrel of river trout

 A land of towering peaks, rushing rivers and one of Korea‘s largest lakes, Hwacheon is home to the sancheoneo, a mountain trout indigenous to the cold, clear waters of this region. The fish also makes for some seriously good eating, making the rivers here one of the most popular ice-fishing destinations in the country. During the festival, visitors try their luck at specially prepared ice fishing spots on the Hwacheoncheon Stream. You don‘t have to be especially lucky to catch one – every day of the festival, some two tons of trout are put in the stream. The really stout-of-heart try catching the fish with their bare hands. Rest assured, it‘s a bracing experience. Best of all, you can, and should, eat what you catch, and there are barbecue pits set up all around the festival venue where you can broil up your fish – they are lovely with a pinch of salt.

EAT> Most people come for the sancheoneo, but if you’d like something else, Hwacheon Eojuktang (T. 033-442-5544), located in front of Hwacheon Hydroelectric Power Station, does a mean eojuktang (spicy fish stew) on the cheap.
STAY> About 20 or so motels and Korean-style inns (yeogwan, 여관) in the town
DO> Hwacheon has a city tour bus that takes you to the town’s scenic and cultural sites. Buses depart from Chuncheon Station (in the nearby city of Chuncheon) at 10 AM, and there are two courses available.
SEE> Really off the beaten track is Peace Dam, a rather curious piece of Cold War history that has been turned into a peace park.
FYI> www.narafestival.com

GO> Buses to Hwacheon-gun depart from Dong Seoul Terminal (travel time: 3 hours).

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Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park 문경새재도립공원

History combines with beautiful views in the Bird Pass

The Mungyeong Saejae (“Bird Pass”) has long been one of the most strategic roads through the rugged Sobaeksan Mountains, which separate Korea’s southeastern region from Seoul and its surroundings. During the Joseon Dynasty, a series of three fortress walls were built in the pass to defend the capital from invasion from the south and to keep the road clear of mountain bandits and the like. Restored in 1976, the gates now cut an impressive figure against the steep mountain peaks that flank them on both sides.

In addition to the gates, you’ll also find ruins of a Joseon Dynasty inn, plenty of hiking opportunities in the surrounding hills, one major Buddhist temple and, oddly enough, a recreated Goryeo Dynasty city used by KBS as a film set.

EAT> There are plenty of good eateries at the entrance of the park. The Mungyeong Sikdang (T. 054-571-3044) does a variety of dishes made with red pepper paste made with omija, a flavorful berry for which Mungyeong is famous. Try the omija gochujang bibimbap, a bowl of rice and seasoned vegetables mixed with omija-infused red pepper paste.
STAY> Mungyeong Tourist Hotel (T. 054-571-8001) is a good place to stay and located right in the park itself.
SEE> Learn about the history of this strategic pass at the Saejae Museum
DO> It takes about two hours to walk from the first gate to the third.
FYI> Park admission fee: KRW 2,000

GO> Take a bus to Mungyeong from Seoul’s Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 30 minutes). From Mungyeong, take Bus 100 to the park (travel time: 15 minutes).

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Namiseom 남이섬

Romantic winter scenery in the Korean Wave pilgrimage site

One of this writer‘s favorite winter destinations, Namiseom is an island in the Bukhangang River about 30 minutes from downtown Chuncheon. In 1965, Minn Byeong-do, former governor of the Bank of Korea, purchased the island and transformed it into one of Korea’s most splendid arboretums. The island is criss-crossed with wooded walking paths, the most famous being the Metasequoia path featured in the hit 2002 drama “Winter Sonata,” one of the shows that kicked off the so-called “Korean Wave.” It‘s as popular a destination in winter as it is in summer thanks to both the drama and its beautiful snowy scenery.

In addition to the trees and snow, the island is home to exhibition spaces, performance halls, restaurants, cafés and a very good hotel.

EAT> Namiseom has got a good variety of eateries, including a Chinese restaurant, a pizzeria, a Korean-style lunchbox café and a joint selling Chuncheon’s best known contribution to Korean cuisine, spicy grilled chicken, or dak galbi.
STAY> The Naminara Hotel (T. 031-580-8000) is a great place to stay. The hotel’s rooms are decorated with the works of noted artists, turning a night here into a cultural experience.
DO> The Namiseom Zip Wire takes you nearly a kilometer across the river to Namiseom, beginning at a height of 80 meters.
SEE> Everybody goes to the Metasequoia path, a tunnel created by the giant Metasequoia trees that line the walkway.
FYI> www.namisum.com

GO> First, take the train from Cheongnyangni Station in Seoul to Gapyeong (travel time: about 1 hour). From Gapyeong Station, take a taxi to Namiseom’s parking lot (travel time: 10 minutes). From there, you can catch a ferry to the island.

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Ganjeolgot Cape 간절곶

Take in the earliest sunrise the Korean way

The earliest sunrises in Korea can be enjoyed from the Ganjeolgot Cape in the southeastern city of Ulsan. At the cape you‘ll find a lighthouse, some sculptures and a very large post box (the world‘s second largest!), where many visitors put postcards on which they‘ve written their wishes. Most folk come to either watch or photograph the sunrise, although ideally, the two activities are not mutually exclusive.

EAT> You’ll find a restaurant and café at the cape, but if you’d like to try Ulsan’s most famous specialty, check out the whale meat restaurants near the Ulsan Whale Museum.
STAY> Ulsan has a wide range of accommodations, including high-end options like the Hyundai and Lotte hotels.
SEE> The sunrise, naturally.
DO> If you’ve got a car, the coastal ring road is one of the most beautiful drives in the country.
FYI> guide.ulsan.go.kr
GO> The KTX to Ulsan departs from Seoul Station. Take Bus 5001 from Ulsan Station to City Hall, and from there, transfer to Bus 715 and get off at Ganjeolgot.

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Boseong Green Tea Plantation Light Festival (Thru Feb. 1) 보성차밭 빛축제

Bright lights, big tea field

The dead of winter might seem an odd time to visit a green tea plantation, but the rolling hills of Boseong’s tea country play host to one of Korea’s most visually appealing winter festivals, the Boseong Green Tea Plantation Light Festival. The terraced fields of Botjae Dawon plantation are lit up in thousands of multicolored lights as a message of hope for the New Year. The decorations include a giant, 120-meter-high “tree” made of LED lights, one of the world’s largest. Most, however, come just to walk amidst the terraced tea fields illuminated against the dark winter sky.

EAT> Green tea ice cream, green tea noodles and delicious green tea pork; you’ll also be drinking lots and lots of green tea.
STAY> The Boseong Tourist Hotel (T. 061-853-1144) is the most convenient place to stay, but if you’re looking for something a bit more historic, the nearby hamlet of Beolgyo is home to the Boseong Yeogwan (T. 061-858-7528), an old colonial era Japanese inn with rooms to rent.
SEE> The best views are from the top of Botjae Dawon’s main hill.
DO> While you’re in Boseong, take a green tea and sea water bath at Haesu Nokchatang on Yulpo Beach.
FYI> english.boseong.go.kr
GO> Buses to Boseong depart from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (travel time: 4 hours). From Boseong, take a bus for the Green Tea Plantations.

Healing in Natural Splendor

Jeju Olle Walking Festival (Nov. 6–8) 제주올레걷기축제

Inspired by Spain’s legendary Camino de Santiago, journalist Suh Myung-suk founded Jejudo’s Olle Trail in 2007 as a healing space where world-weary people could recharge and reconnect with nature. Now totaling 21 routes that circle the entire island, the trail has proven a phenomenal success, drawing over a million hikers every year.

The Jeju Olle Walking Festival celebrates this special part of Jejudo Island’s cultural landscape by highlighting three of the routes. This year’s festival takes place along routes 17, 18 and 19 along the northern side of the island. Villages along the festival route will welcome participants with a wide range of cultural performances and local dishes found only on Jejudo.

EAT> Jejudo is known for its very unique cuisine, which is a reflection of its island culture. Specialties include jeonbokjuk (abalone porridge), black pork and a wide range of seafood. Stalls will be set up along the walking trails, so don’t worry about going hungry.

STAY> Because Jejudo is one of Korea’s top tourist destinations, the island is covered with hotels, guest houses and other forms of accommodation. You’ll no doubt find places to stay along the trails, but if you’re looking to go upscale, try the Ramada Plaza Jeju Hotel (T. 064-729-8224) in Jeju City.

DO> As you walk the path, be mindful of where you are. This isn’t just a hike—it’s a healing experience.

SEE> Along route 19 you’ll find the Neobeunsungi 4.3 Memorial Hall, a memorial to one of Korea’s most tragic events.

FYI> Participation fee: KRW 20,000, www.ollewalking.co.kr

GO> Discount airlines Jeju Air and Jin Air both fly to Jejudo Island several times a day.

Discover Your Inner Caveman

Yeoncheon Jeongok-ri Paleolithic Festival (Oct. 31–Nov. 2) 연천구석기축제

In 1977, a US Army staff sergeant enjoying some leisure time happened upon some rocks where he found an ancient hand axe, a revolutionary find as it was the first proof that Paleolithic culture did in fact exist in East Asia.

The Jeongok-ri Prehistoric Site, as the spot is called today, yielded over 3,000 artifacts in the excavations that followed. Some of those remains are on display at the beautifully designed Jeongok Prehistory Museum. During the Yeoncheon Jeongok-ri Paleolithic Festival, you can take part in family-oriented programs like hands-on archeology classes and watch performances by actors doing their best to emulate the dress, customs and mannerism of Paleolithic humans.

EAT> Woolly mammoth burgers—just kidding. Plenty of food stalls will be set up during the festival, and local farmers will be on site to sell local produce. There will also be a prehistoric barbecue where you can cook up some pork caveman-style.

STAY> This is a day trip from Seoul.

DO> Let the kiddies go nuts with all the hands-on programs for children.

SEE> While much of the festival is pretty hokey, the Jeongok Prehistory Museum, designed by French architectural house X-TU, certainly is not: a must-see for any self-respecting architecture fan.

GO> Take the Gyeongwon Line to Hantanggang Subway Station, and then take a local bus to Jeongok Prehistory Museum.

Mountain Majesty: Jirisan National Park 지리산 국립공원

An enormous massif that covers large swaths of the provinces of Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeollabuk-do and Jeollanam-do, Mt. Jirisan is home to some of Korea’s tallest peaks, including Cheonwangbong (1,915 m), the highest point on mainland Korea. It’s a monumental place of towering mountains, deep valleys and pristine rivers—to properly explore it would take months, if not years. Its slopes are home to several beautiful and historic Buddhist monasteries, which are treasure troves of Korean art.

EAT> There are some good eateries in front of Hwaeomsa Temple in Gurye, including some fantastic jeongsik at Sanchae Sikdang (T. 061-782-3223).

STAY> If you’re hiking Mt. Jirisan’s main ridge, you should stay in a shelter—there are eight of them on the ridge. The Nogodan, Byeoksoryong, Seseok and Jangteomok shelters, which are located roughly equidistant from one another along the ridge, are all quite large, with shops selling snacks (like instant noodles) and basic supplies. The others are equally simple.

DO> Take in the autumn colors in the Piagol Valley, or “Valley of Blood,” whose name refers to the blood-red color of its maples in autumn.

SEE> The Buddhist monastery of Hwaeomsa is essentially a rustic museum of Korean Buddhist art and architecture.

GO> From Seoul, buses to Gurye depart from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal (travel time: 3 hours)

The Colors of Autumn: Jangseong Baegyang Maple Festival (Oct. 31–Nov. 2) 장성단풍축제

The area around Baegyangsa Temple, which is part of Naejangsan National Park, is famous for its spectacular autumn foliage, some of the most beautiful in Korea. Every year, the temple’s maples turn the brightest crimson, a color made all the more dramatic by the deep blue skies above. The Jangseong Baegyang Maple Festival celebrates this natural beauty with cultural performances, craft programs and food, but the real highlight here is the trees themselves.

EAT> You’ll find plenty of great Jeolla-do Province food in the restaurants in front of the temple.

STAY> There are several small inns throughout the nearby town of Jangseong.

DO> If you’re up for it, hike up to the hermitage of Yaksaam for great views of the valley.

SEE> The reflection of Mt. Baegamsan’s Hakbawi (“Crane Rock”), Ssanggyeru Pavilion and the autumn foliage in the pond in front of the temple.

GO> Trains to Baegyangsa Station depart from Yongsan Station (travel time: 3 hours, 30 minutes). You could also take a KTX to Jangseong Station (travel time: 2 hours, 30 minutes). During peak foliage season, you may have to walk an hour from Baegyangsa Station due to heavy traffic.

A Piece of Old Korea: Jeonju Hanok Village 전주한옥마을

In order to properly appreciate Jeonju Hanok Village, be prepared to get lost. And leave your watch at home.

 A maze of picturesque alleyways lined by handsome old Korean homes, Jeonju Hanok Village is a piece of an older, simpler and infinitely slower Korea. Every corner, every back street yields a new discovery. Hidden away amidst the tile roofs and greenery are charming guest houses, quiet teahouses, historic Confucian shrines, artisan workshops and stately old trees that have stood their ground for centuries. If there’s something in particular you’d like to see, by all means, bring a map. Otherwise, experience the town as it was meant to be seen—very, very slowly.

EAT> Tons of great places to eat in Jeonju, including many places in Jeonju Hanok Village itself. It’s best known dish is the Jeonju bibimbap—rice mixed with fresh vegetables and a tangy pepper sauce and served with a spread of side dishes. Jeonju’s best known bibimbap house is Gogung(T. 063-251-3211), a taxi ride from Jeonju Hanok Village. Closer to the hanok village is Gajok Hoegwan (T. 063-284-0982), which is also highly recommended. This writer recommends Seongmidang (T. 063-273-0029), a smaller place hidden in an alley near Gajok Hoegwan. It’s friendly, held in high esteem by locals and, above all, does great food. A Jeonju bibimbap will run you KRW 10,000, or KRW 12,000 for one topped with raw beef (yukhoe bibimbap).

STAY> Jeonju Hanok Village is about hanok, and there’s no better way to experience the charm of a Korean traditional abode than spending a night in one. There are many good hanok guesthouses in the village. One of the better ones is the Hakindang (T. 063-284-9929), a palatial estate built in 1905 by high-ranking royal official Baek Nak-jung. When we say palatial, we mean palatial—the home’s architecture incorporates aspects of royal palace design.

SEE> Overlooking Jeonju Hanok Village to the east is a small hill topped by a grand Korean pavilion. The hill provides good views of the entire hanok village.

DO> Experience the paper making process at Jeonju Traditional Korean Paper Center (T. 063-232-6591).

GO> KTX express train service connects Jeonju with Seoul’s Yongsan Station (travel time: about 2 hours, 10 min). You can also take express buses to Jeonju from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 45 min).

Pohang’s Homigot Cape 호미곶

If the Korean Peninsula is a tiger clawing at the Asian mainland, Homigot Cape is its tail. The mainland‘s eastern-most point, the cape is the place to come to see the earliest sunrises – on New Year’s Day, it’s flooded by tourists who come to do just that. Homigot Sunrise Square is dominated by the “Hands of Coexistence,” two giant iron hands, one rising from the land, the other rising dramatically from the waves just off the beach. The hand rising from the sea provides a rather nice resting spot for local seagulls – one can usually be found sitting on the tip of each digit.

 If you’re a lighthouse lover, you’ll definitely want to check out the National Lighthouse Museum, where you’ll find everything you’ve ever wanted to know about lighthouses but were afraid to ask.

EAT> Plenty of places to eat around Homigot Sunrise Plaza — expect at least some of these places to be open on New Year’s Day. A local specialty is mulhoe, or sliced raw fish mixed with pear slices, spices and cold water.

STAY> Around Homigot you’ll find the Haesu Motel (T. 054-284-8044) and Haesong Motel (T. 054-284-8245). There’s also a number of minbakjip (homestays) you can use.

DO> Celebrate the start of 2015, which, not coincidentally, is also the time of the Homigot Sunrise Festival. There will be concerts, cultural performances and plenty of tteokguk (Korean rice cake soup, a New Year’s Day specialty).

SEE> Check out Homigot Lighthouse, one of Korea’s oldest, largest and most beautiful lighthouses. Designed by a French architect, the graceful lighthouse was completed in 1908 – note the intricate details on the doors and windows.

GO> Assuming the sunrise is what you’re after, the best way to get to Pohang is by taking the night bus from Seoul Express Bus Terminal – there are buses at 10:40 PM, 11:30 PM and 12:30 PM (travel time: 4 hours, 40 minutes). From Pohang Express Bus Terminal, however, you’ll need to take a taxi to Homigot Sunrise Plaza. Expect to pay about KRW 25,000 or more. Of course, if you arrive in Pohang during the day, you could just take a bus.

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Dreaming of a white winter

Taebaeksan Provincial Park 태백산도립공원

The park‘s mountain is big but not a particularly difficult one to climb; no cliffs need to be negotiated and the path is blissfully smooth. From the upper reaches, the views of the surrounding Taebaeksan range are breathtaking. Bring a flashlight and get to the peak early (a two-hour climb via the shortest route) to see a spectacular sunrise. It’s an especially popular place to take in the first sunrise of the year.

In winter, the mountain receives heavy snow, which makes the climb even more scenic and beautiful, with “snow flowers” – windswept trees and bushes encrusted in snow – producing a fantastic and almost otherworldly landscape.

In addition to the scenic splendor, Mt. Taebaeksan is worth climbing for its high spiritual and cultural importance. Thanks to its shamanist and Buddhist heritage, Korea has many mountains and peaks of spiritual importance, with this mountain being one of the most sacred. According to legend, Mt. Taebaeksan was where Hwanung, the son of the king of heaven, came down from heaven to found his own sacred city and teach people how to live.

EAT> In downtown Taebaek, one restaurant worth checking out is Neowajip (T. 033-553-4669), which serves fantastic sanchae bibimbap (rice mixed with mountain vegetables, KRW 7,000) and jeongsik (Korean banquet cuisine of rice, soup and a table full of side dishes starting at KRW 20,000). It’s also worth trying the memil jeonbyeong (buckwheat crepes wrapped around a filling of seasoned vegetables and tofu).

STAY> The nicest place to stay is High 1 Ski Resort (T. 033-590-7700), which also happens to be the home of the country’s lone casino that Korean nationals can legally enter (naturally, this makes it the busiest casino in the country).

DO> View the sunrise from the peak of Mt. Taebaeksan.

SEE> Near the peak are ancient yew trees that cut a surreal silhouette against the morning sky.

FYI> tour.taebaek.go.kr

GO> Buses to Taebaek depart from Dong Seoul Terminal (travel time: 3 hours, 30 minutes).

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Oido   오이도

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The last sunset  

Want to take in the final sunset of the year but don’t have the time or energy for a major road trip? Why not hop on the subway and head to Oido, an “island” that has long since been incorporated into the mainland. It’s also the site of a lovely little seaside resort with a pier from which you can take in the sunset, best enjoyed with someone you love.

EAT> Being next to the sea, you’ll find plenty of seafood joints along the waterfront. Oido Market is a good place to score fresh seafood, but if raw fish isn’t your thing, try Bajirak Kalguksu (T. 031-433-1138) for some good noodles with saltwater clams.

STAY> This is a day trip from Seoul

DO> Explore the extensive mudflats along the coast.

SEE> Oido is home to scattered mounds of seashells, historical evidence of Korea’s Neolithic Age people.

GO> Exit 1 or 2 of Oido Station, Line 4. Take Bus No. 30-2 to Oido Ocean Complex.

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Ttangkkeut Village   해남 땅끝마을

At land’s end 

Once a small backwater fishing village, Haenam’s Ttangkkeut Maeul (Land’s End Village) has in recent years become a major tourist destination owing to its location, which marks the southwestern-most point of the Korean Peninsula. Here, you’ll find a number of motels, seafood restaurants and shops selling the village’s famous seaweed, as well as the ferry to Bogildo, a noted island not far off shore. The village is also a great place to take in the final sunset of the year.

 The best views can be had from the observation platform atop a hill overlooking the harbor. There’s a monorail that goes to the top, but be sure to arrive in time for the sunset.

EAT> Haenam is in the heart of Namdo, the southwestern region famous for having the best cuisine in Korea. To get an idea of what we’re talking about, stop by Cheonil Sikdang (T. 061-535-1001) in downtown Haenam and order the tteokgalbi jeongsik (a full-course meal with grilled meat patties) – you’ll be presented with a table topped with dozens of tasty vegetable and seafood dishes.

STAY> Hidden just in front of Daeheungsa Temple, the historic hanok inn Yuseon Yeogwan (T. 061-534-3692) is Korea’s oldest inn, founded in 1915 and built by the same woodcutter who built the main hall of nearby Baegyangsa Temple. Seated just next to a mountain stream, it’s a beautiful place in and of itself and offers an unrivaled old-school experience  – no TVs to distract you!

SEE> Mihwangsa Temple enjoys a dramatic setting at the foot of craggy Mt. Dalmasan.

DO> Do a Templestay at Mihwangsa Temple.

GO> Buses to Haenam depart from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 5 hours). You could also take the KTX to Mokpo (travel time: 3 hours) and from Mokpo take a bus to Haenam (travel time: 1 hour).

Herb Island 허브아일랜드

Herbs and holidays

A botanical garden might not seem like an intuitive choice for a wintertime destination, but Pocheon’s Herb Island puts on a great winter light show (though April). Everything on the premises is lit up with thousands of LEDs that illuminate the night sky. This year, the garden has been decorated like Finland’s Santa Village, complete with a 300-meter tunnel filled with Christmas trees and holiday wishes and over 300 figures of Santa, Mrs. Claus and Santa’s elves. The light show draws photographers from all over Korea.

Herb Island was founded in 1998 as a place to grow Mediterranean herbs. Its garden produces over 180 varieties of herbs, to be sure, but the place has also become one of Korea’s best-loved botanical gardens. The museum/botanical garden contains over 250 different species of plants and is the biggest privately owned botanical garden in the country.

EAT> There are a couple of herb-themed eateries, including one specializing in Korean-style herb ribs. There’s a bakery and coffee shop, too.

STAY> This is a day trip from Seoul, but if you’d like to stay, Herb Island has some pension houses (some more outlandishly decorated than others) for visitors to spend the night.

SEE> The LED show, naturally. If you’re photographing it, be sure to bring a tripod and set your ISO low.

DO> Recover from the stresses of modern life at the Herb Healing Center spa.

GO> Take bus No. 57 to Soyosan Station 소요산역 (Line 1) and get off at Samjeong-ri. You can walk to Herb Island from there.

Keeping Cool Underground: Danyang’s Gosu Cave 단양 고수동굴

Danyang is also famous for its limestone caves, of which Gosu Cave is the most spectacular. This extensive cave system extends for a length of 1,300 meters and is full of pools, waterfalls and 120 fantastically formed stalactites and stalagmites. Stairs and lighting have been installed to give the non-spelunking masses access to this intriguing subterranean landscape. It’s like strolling through a Dali painting, except colder—the temperature here stays at 15 degrees (Celsius) all year round. This makes it a very popular destination in summer, when the crowds can make the cave a very claustrophobic place. Still, if you’re in the area, you’d be a fool to pass this place up.

EAT> Danyang’s known for its garlic, and garlic cuisine is the local specialty. Doljip Sikdang (043-422-2842) is a good place to try maneul ssam jeongsik, a meal consisting of lettuce leaves, garlic rice cooked in a stone pot, and a plethora of garlic side dishes (KRW 10,000 a person). Another good place to try is the Jangdari Sikdang (043-423-3960), which has a variety of garlic-centric meals in the KRW 12,000—25,000 price range.

STAY> Being a resort town, Danyang’s got plenty of places to stay. The snazziest establishment is the Daemyung Resort Danyang (T. 02-1588-4888; 043-420-8311), a condo that also operates Aquaworld, a large pool/bath complex using Danyang’s very own natural mineral water spring. One particularly charming pension worth checking out—if you don’t mind staying a bit out of town—is Gureum Wi-uei Sanchaek (T. 011-260-9708; 043-422-9708), or “Walk Above the Clouds,” so named because it sits on a potato farm about 500 meters up a 700-meter mountain overlooking the Namhangang River.

SEE> There are some truly impressive stalactites and stalagmites down here.

DO> Take an hour and a half to explore the entire cave, including the recently opened B Course.

FYI> KRW 2,500 (Course A), KRW 4,000 (Course A+B) T. 043-422-3072

GO> Buses to Danyang run every hour on the hour from Seoul’s Dongseoul Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 30 minutes). You can also take one of the frequent trains that pass through Danyang from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station (travel time: 3 hours).

The Korean Riviera: Haeundae Beach 해운대

With its magnificent stretch of beach, a strip of luxury apartments, condos and hotels, and a plethora of bars and clubs, Haeundae is sometimes lauded as the “Korean Riviera.” OK, it’s not Nice, but it’s still Korea’s most popular summertime holiday destination, and the throngs of holidaymakers lining the sand truly can be a sight to behold—on August 2, 2008, the beach set a Guinness World Record with 7,937 beach umbrellas set up in a single day. At the height of the summer vacation period (July–August), between 500,000 and 600,000 tourists visit the beach.

In addition to the sand, what makes Haeundae so popular is the facilities. Just behind the beach is a wall of restaurants, bars, nightclubs and hotels, making this a one-stop-shopping center for all your summer fun needs.

EAT> There are tons of things to eat and drink around Haeundae. And being a port, Busan is famous for its seafood—the best place to score it is the sprawling Jagalchi Market. Another popular dish is dwaeji gukbap, a hearty soup made with rice and chunks of pork. A very popular place for this is Ssangdungi Dwaeji Gukbap (T. 051-628-7020) near Daeyeon Station.

STAY> Busan has the best selection of hotels anywhere outside of Seoul. Most of the high-end places, including the Westin Chosun Beach Hotel, Park Hyatt Busan, and Paradise Hotel Busan, can be found in the Haeundae area. Cheaper accommodations can be found around Busan Station and Busan’s major bus terminals.

SEE> Korea’s best aquarium outside of Seoul, Busan Aquiarium is home to 35,000 species of fish and other aquatic life. The best part of the aquarium is the lowest level, an 80-meter (simulated) seabed tunnel.

DO> Explore the Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, named by the Guinness Book of World Records the largest department store in the world with 293,905 square meters of floor space.

GO> The KTX gets you to Busan from Seoul Station in less than three hours. From Busan, take Busan Subway Line 2 to Haeundae Station.

Valley of Ice: Miryang’s Eoreumgol Valley 밀양 얼음골

Located about an hour north of Busan, the Eoreumgol Valley in the town of Miryang is a freak of nature. In midsummer, the temperatures in this high mountain valley are so cold the water freezes. In autumn, the valley thaws and the waters remain unfrozen in winter. There are a number of theories as to why this seemingly unnatural phenomenon takes place, including theories of unusual airflow patterns.

EAT> There are a number of good places to eat near the entrance of the valley, including the Wonjo Hwanggeum Sikdang (T. 055-356-2288), which serves a mean chueotang (loach soup).

STAY> Minbak (homestay) facilities are available at Eoreumgol Pokpo Gwangwang Nongwon (T. 055-356-2684).

SEE> The lovely Hobakso Pond, where the emerald water harmonizes with the white granite of its surroundings.

DO> Listen to the wind blow at nearby Pyochungsa Temple.

GO> Take the KTX from Seoul Station to Miryang (travel time: 2 hours, 18 minutes). From Miryang Station, take a taxi to the bus terminal on the other side of town and take a local bus to Eoreumgol.

Two Great Tastes that Go Great Together: Daegu Chicken and Beer Festival   대구 치맥축제

The Daegu Chicken and Beer Festival (July 17–20) celebrates the fine city of Daegu’s most recent contribution to global cuisine. In the words of the Korea Times, “Korea honestly doesn’t have the world’s best beer. That’s exactly why we pair it with the world’s best chicken (yeah, we said it).” The popular Korean drama “My Love From the Star” has sparked a chimaek (“chicken and beer”) boom in China, too. Needless to say, there will be plenty of booths selling chicken and beer, as well as lots of cultural performances.

EAT> Chicken. With beer. All of Korea’s chicken and beer manufacturers will be there, and expect some creative takes on fried chicken, too.

STAY> As befitting a city of over a million people, Daegu has a wide range of accommodations.

SEE> There will be exhibits describing the history of Daegu’s chicken industry.

DO> Bring proper ID!

GO> Take the KTX from Seoul Station to Dongdaegu Station (travel time: 1 hour, 42 minutes). From Dongdaegu Station, take Line 2 to Duryu Park.

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 In Search of Celadon: Gangjin 강진 청자축제

This quiet rural town on the Gangjin Bay doesn’t get that many tourists, which is a shame, really, because it’s a charming little part of the country with a rich and colorful past. Between the 10th and 14th centuries, Gangjin was Korea’s foremost ceramics-producing region, its kilns producing the beautiful blue-green celadon for which Korea was famous throughout the Far East. Even today, the town’s master craftsmen continue to produce some of Korea’s highest quality ceramics. “Dasan” Jeong Yak-yong, one the greatest intellectuals in Korean history, spent 18 years in exile in the town, leaving behind a fascinating legacy.

Hendrick Hamel, the 17th century Dutch sailor who spent 13 years in Korea after he was shipwrecked on Korean shores, lived seven years in Gangjin, an experience he documented in detail in his journal, providing the West with its first introduction to Korea.

EAT> As is the case throughout Jeollanam-do, you’ll find plenty of good places to eat. One good place near the Hamel Memorial Hall is Suingwan (T. 061 432-1027), a 50-year-old eatery known for its dwaeji bulgogi baekban—marinated pork, rice and lots of yummy side dishes. If some Namdo jeongsik (rice, soup and more side dishes than you can count) is what you’re after, one place you’ll want to try is Myeongdong Sikdang (T. 061 433-2147), near Gangjin Bus Terminal.

STAY> Up the coastal road from Gangjin Celadon Museum is Gangjin Oemeonison Doenjang Minbak (T. 061 432-3372), a hanok minbak whose owner is a well-known maker of doenjang, or Korean bean paste. You’ll find plenty of bean paste jars in the courtyard.

SEE> Dasan Chodang, where late Joseon Dynasty intellectual and scholar Jeong Yak-yong lived in exile from 1801 to 1818. Shaded by trees, it’s a simple wooden cottage, next to which there’s a small pond, a water well and a stone upon which Jeong used to sit and drink tea, a habit he picked up from his neighbors on the mountain, the Buddhist monks of Baengnyeonsa Temple.

DO> Take in the Gangjin Celadon Festival (July 26–Aug 3)

GO> From Seoul, buses to Gangjin depart from Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 4 hours, 50 minutes).

Wild River Rafting:
Yeongwol’s Donggang River
영월 동강

Nestled in the wilds of Gangwon-do, the Donggang River—a tributary of the great Hangang River—is one of Korea’s most pristine waterways thanks to its lush and rugged surroundings. Sometimes compared to China’s famous Li River, this is a landscape of white water rapids, weather-beaten limestone cliffs, fields of wild flowers, rare animals such as otters and Mandarin ducks and rustic villages hidden behind the river’s sharp bends.

The Donggang’s powerful currents and the scenic shores are also what have made it Korea’s top rafting destination. The best stretch of the river is the Eorayeon Valley, where you’ll find stretches of white water (especially around the Doen Kkokkari Rapids), as well as dramatic mountain vistas. In the village of Geoun-ri, you’ll find a ton of tour companies offering rafting trips along the Donggang River. Those inexperienced in rafting needn’t worry—all tours are accompanied by experienced guides. Most companies offer 10 km (3 hours), 13 km (4 hours) and 30 km (8 hours) courses (or comparable distances), with most ending at Geoungyo Bridge. Look to spend about KRW 30,000—90,000 per person, depending on the distance. The two-hour Munsan-naru—Geoungyo Bridge (Seopsae) course is the most popular.

EAT> The Donggang River is famous for its marsh snails, or daseulgi. Donggang Daseulgi (T. 033-374-2821), in downtown Yeongwol, does a variety of marsh snail dishes, including yakseontang (a hangover soup), bibimbap and sundubu.

STAY> Try the Hanbando River Pension (T. 033-375-0099), a bed and breakfast across the river from Eorayeon. The pension has a small museum with local artifacts and old log rafts of the type that used to ply these waters—the pension owner can take you out on one and show you the sights while belting out old boatmen songs, including the Jeongseon Arirang.

SEE> Eorayeon is a well-known geographical attraction—a sharp bend in the river that, when seen from above, looks like the Korean Peninsula in miniature.

DO> Aside from rafting, there are plenty of hiking and biking opportunities along the river, too.

GO> First, you need to get to the small town of Yeongwol. From Seoul, buses to Yeongwol depart from Dongseoul Terminal (Travel time: 2 hours). From Yeongwol Bus Terminal, take a bus to Geoungyo.

Keeping the Mountains Happy: Gangneung Danoje Festival (May 31—June 7)
강릉 단오제

The beautiful east coast city of Gangneung hosts the annual Gangneung Danoje Festival, a fascinating piece of Korea’s folk culture. Designated a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2005, the Gangneung Danoje Festival is held all over Gangneung and on Daegwallyeong Ridge, and people pay homage to the mountain deity and male and female tutelary deities. The festival features folk music and dancing, shamanist rites, parades, ssireum wrestling and other folk games, the brewing of sacrificial wine, the washing of hair with iris-infused water, and much, much more. There’s a traditional market as well. This is a truly special event, and if you’re in Korea at this time, do yourself a favor and go.

EAT> Gangneung is best known for chodang sundubu 초당순두부, a tofu dish prepared with sea water. Near Gyeongpo Beach there’s a whole village dedicated to the dish.

STAY> The spectacular Seongyojang House (T. 033-646-3270) has rooms for rent, and you’ll find plenty of beachfront hotels near Gyeongpo Beach.

SEE> Gangneung has some spectacular examples of Joseon Dynasty architecture, including historic Ojukheon House and Seongyojang House.

DO> See the sunrise from nearby Jeongdongjin, one of Korea’s best sunrise spots.

FYI> www.danojefestival.or.kr

GO> Buses to Gangneung depart from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (travel time: about 3 hours).

The Original K-Fashion:
Hansan Ramie Fabric Cultural Festival  한산 모시문화제

The hamlet of Hansan in the West Sea town of Seocheon is renowned for its ramie, one of the world’s oldest and strongest natural fibers. The Hansan Ramie Fabric Cultural Festival (June 6–10) pays tribute to the city’s ramie tradition with fashion shows, ramie exhibits and even hands-on weaving programs. Don’t forget to stop by the Museum of Hansan Ramie Fabric while you’re in town, too.

EAT> During the festival participants can enjoy foods made from ramie, including rice cakes and ice cream.

STAY> Overlooking the port of Maryang-po is the pleasant Seocheon Beachtel (T. 041-952-9566), a motel with wonderful sunsets.

SEE> Through a quirk of geography, the port of Maryang-po offers both inspiring sunrises and sunsets.

DO> Try your hand at weaving some ramie fabric of your own.

FYI> www.hansanmosi.kr

GO> Take a bus from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal to Seocheon (Travel time: 3 hours), and from there take a bus for Hansan (Travel time: 20 minutes).

Good, Dirty Fun:
Boryeong Mud Festival  보령 진흙축제

Rising from humble beginnings in 1998, the Boryeong Mud Festival is now Korea’s best-known summer festival. In theory, the main attraction is Daecheon Beach’s extensive mud flats, which produce a high-quality, medicinally efficacious mud that is much sought after by cosmetics firms. In actuality, however, most people come here for the fun. The festival is essentially just one big and very muddy beach party, with mud wrestling, mud dancing, mud spas, a Marine Corps training program and much, much more. The festival is particularly popular with Korea’s international community and overseas tourists. Be forewarned, though: Things can get a bit wild, which is not necessarily a bad thing.

EAT> Like other coastal towns, Boryeong is a good place to score seafood. Give Daecheon Gaja Jogae Gui (T. 041-933-8882) a try for some good broiled clams and other shellfish.

STAY> There are many hotels, pensions and other accommodations along Daecheon Beach.

SEE> Lots and lots of very muddy people, many of them scantily dressed. If this appeals to you, this is your place.

DO> The Mudflat Extremes program borrows heavily from the ROK Marine Corps’ training program.

FYI> T. 010-5438-4865, www.mudfestival.or.kr

GO> Take a train from Yongsan Station to Daecheon. From Daecheon Station, there are local buses for the beach (Travel time: 2 hours, 30 minutes).

Celebration of Light:
Muju Firefly Festival

무주 반딧불 축제

The mountain town of Muju is known for two things—its fantastic winter sports scene and its summer firefly festival (June 7–15). As the name of the festival would suggest, the fireflies are the stars of the show here. While agriculture and urbanization have largely wiped them out in much of Korea, relatively pristine Muju is still home to a healthy population of lightning bugs that light up the summer sky. In addition to watching the fireflies, visitors can enjoy a wide range of other hands-on activities and cultural events, including opportunities to catch river trout with their bare hands.

EAT> Muju is especially known for eojuk, a spicy fish stew. Geumgang Sikdang (T. 063-322-4672), near Muju County Office, is a good place to try.

STAY> The nicest place to stay by far is Deogyusan Resort on Mt. Deogyusan. You can find plenty of more humble places to stay in downtown Muju, too.

 SEE> The fireflies, of course.

DO> Muju makes its own wine from wild grapes, and the tastings are worth checking out. It’s aged in a renovated tunnel originally built for the construction of a nearby hydroelectric plant. The tunnel is about 5 km outside of town. Call T. 063-320-2761 for more info.

FYI> T. 063-324-2440, english.firefly.or.kr

GO> Buses to Muju depart from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal (Travel time: 2 hours, 30 mininutes).

Jeonju International Film Festival (May 1−10)  전주국제영화제

Launched in 2000, the Jeonju International Film Festival (JIFF) is now recognized as a mecca of independent film festivals in Asia and a snapshot of current avant-garde cinema.

The JIFF has highlighted the unique voices of independent spirit by presenting meaningful and contemporary cinematic language to the audience. Since 2000, a number of new, rising filmmakers have been introduced to the world stage by JIFF; many of its awardees have gone on to be critically acclaimed in the international film festival scene. The JIFF has been able to acknowledge world cineastes’ vision and trends through challenging films and a wide range of programs from a variety of cultural backgrounds.

EAT> Jeonju’s best known dish is the Jeonju bibimbap—rice mixed with fresh vegetables and a tangy pepper sauce and served with a spread of side dishes. Jeonju’s best known bibimbap house is Gogung (T. 063-251-3211), a taxi ride from Jeonju Hanok Village. Closer to the hanok village is Gajok Hoegwan (T. 063-284-0982), which is also highly recommended. This writer recommends Seongmidang (T. 063-273-0029), a smaller place hidden in an alley near Gajok Hoegwan. It’s friendly, held in high esteem by locals and, above all, does great food. A Jeonju bibimbap will run you KRW 10,000, or KRW 12,000 for one topped with raw beef (yukhoe bibimbap).

STAY> Jeonju Hanok Village is all about hanok, and there’s no better way to experience the charm of a Korean traditional abode than spending a night in one. There are many good hanok guesthouses in the village. One of the better ones is the Hakindang (T. 063-284-9929), a palatial estate built in 1905 by high ranking royal official Baek Nak-jung.

SEE> The opening film of this year’s festival is “Mad Sad Bad,” a 3-D omnibus film featuring work by directors Kim Tae-yong, Ryu Seung-wan and Han Ji-seung.

DO> The Korean Short Film Competition is always good fun.

FYI> www.jiff.or.kr

GO> KTX express train service connects Jeonju with Seoul’s Yongsan Station (Travel time: about 2 hours, 10 minutes). You can also take express buses to Jeonju from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (Travel time: 2 hours, 45 minutes).

Korea’s Eden Project: National Institute of Ecology  국립생태원

Reopened after being shut down in the wake of Korea’s bird flu scare, the National Institute of Ecology in the western coastal town of Seocheon has quickly become one of Korea’s most popular tourist destinations. While the biggest draws are the flora and fauna, the center itself is an architectural work of art, with five massive, sweeping artificial biomes designed by award-winning Korean architectural house SAMOO and British design firm Grimshaw, the firm that designed the biomes of the Eden Project.

The whole complex is worth exploring, but most visitors will head straight for the Ecorium, the five artificial biomes inspired by a meandering river. The biomes recreate tropical, desert, Mediterranean, temperate and polar environments. Overall, the complex is home to 30,000 specimens from 4,300 different species of plants.

EAT> Seocheon is famous for its clams, usually served broiled (jogaegui). If shellfish isn’t your thing, Janghang Halmae Onjeongjip (T. 041-956-4860) in the nearby port of Janghang has been serving a mean agujjim (spicy steamed angler) for 30 years.

STAY> You’ll find inns in Janghang.

SEE> A visitor favorite so far has been the penguins in the polar hall.

DO> There are educational programs available, but these are largely for Korean visitors.

FYI> A KRW 3,000 entry fee (T. 041-950-5339, visit ecoplex.go.kr).

GO> Take a train to Janghang from Seoul’s Yongsan Station (Travel time: 3 hours). From Janghang Station, there’s free shuttle service to the park, but it might be discontinued by the time this goes to print. At any rate, the institute is a short taxi ride from the station.

Green Tea in Boseong  보성다원

The southwestern town of Boseong is best known as green tea country—in May, it is arguably the most beautiful, and certainly the most fragrant, town in the country. The region is famous for its rolling hills of perfectly manicured green tea plantations, established in the early 20th century. They are especially beautiful in the morning. The Boseong Green Tea Festival (May 2–May 6) is the best time to visit with its tea ceremonies, cultural events and hands-on programs, including tea-picking.

EAT> Green tea ice cream, green tea noodles and delicious green tea pork; you’ll also be drinking lots and lots of green tea.

STAY> The Boseong Tourist Hotel (T. 061-853-1144) is the most convenient place to stay, but if you’re looking for something a bit more historic, the nearby hamlet of Beolgyo is home to the Boseong Yeogwan (T. 061-858-7528), an old colonial era Japanese inn with rooms to rent.

SEE> Historic Naganeupseong Fortress is well worth the visit, as is Beolgyo, the backdrop to the Korean War-era novel “Taebaek Sanmaek.”

DO> While you’re in Boseong, take a green tea and sea water bath at Haesu Nokchatang on Yulpo Beach.

FYI> english.boseong.go.kr

GO> Buses to Boseong depart from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Travel time: 4 hours).

Land of Bamboo and Poetry: Damyang  담양

Some 40 minutes outside the southwestern city of Gwangju is Damyang, one of Korea’s most entrancing locations. An area renowned throughout Korea for its romantic bamboo forests, traditional gardens and proud literary history, Damyang is relatively untouched by foreign travelers, in large part due to its isolation. Thanks to KTX express train service to Gwangju, however, foreign residents of Seoul now have an easier time accessing this charming locale of outstanding scenery, great food and a rich culture. The Damyang Bamboo Festival (May 1–6) makes a great excuse to come down for a visit.

EAT> Korean-style meat patties, or tteok galbi, is Damyang’s signature dish. The most popular joint to enjoy this delight is Deogingwan (T. 061-381-7781).

STAY> For something a bit more high-end, try Damyang Resort Spa (T. 061-380-5111). There are also rooms for rent at the bamboo village of Jukhyang-ri (bamboo.namdominbak.go.kr).

SEE> The Soswaewon Garden, built in the 16th century, is one of the finest Korean traditional gardens in the country and a must-see.

DO> Stroll amidst the bamboo forest of Juknokwon.

FYI> T. 061-380-3151

GO> The easiest way to get to Damyang is via Gwangju. The KTX for Gwangju departs from Yongsan Station (Travel time: 3 hours). From Gwangju Intercity Bus Terminal, take local bus No. 225, which will take you past Soswaewon (Travel time: 40 minutes).

Holy Land of Democracy: Gwangju 광주

The largest city of southwest Korea, Gwangju is known for its wonderful food, vibrant arts and culture scene and, above all else, its proud history of political activism. It was the scene of one of the most dramatic events in modern Korean history, the Gwangju Democratic Movement of May 1980, when pro-democracy activists and ordinary citizens seized control of the city for several days before being crushed by martial law forces. The May 18 National Cemetery is dedicated to the men and women who were killed in the uprising and is one of Korea’s most moving monuments to the country’s democratization struggle.

The Gwangju area has also long been famous for producing many of Korea’s finest artists, poets, musicians and writers, something the city has tried to capitalize on by transforming itself into an Asian cultural center. The opening of the landmark Asia Cultural Complex is still some ways away, but the city already has a vibrant arts and culture scene, with a number of major galleries and exhibit halls like the Gwangju Biennale Exhibition Hall, Jungoe Park Culture Belt and Kunsthalle Gwangju. In November, the city will host the Gwangju Biennale, Asia’s oldest biennial of contemporary art. The grand, two-month affair brings in Asia’s top contemporary artists and is accompanied by concerts, dancing and other cultural events.

EAT> Almost by definition, everything’s good here. You’re in Namdo (“South Province”) cuisine country, where the food is fresh, plentiful, tasty and cheap.

If you’re a foodie and your wallet’s up for it, head to Myeongseonheon (T. 062-228-2942), a secluded Korean restaurant in an old garden residence up on Mt. Mudeungsan. Run by master kimchi maker Choi In-soon, this place specializes in hanjeongsik (Korean banquet cuisine), and take it from us—you haven’t had hanjeongsik until you’ve had it Jeollanam-do. Expect about 30 dishes to be put on the table.

Another good place to try good Namdo hanjeongsik is Chodang Hanjeongsik (T. 062-373-5515), which combines good food with graceful presentation.

STAY> As a major city, Gwangju has a wide range of accommodations, with most of the budget stuff around the train station and bus terminals. The plushest digs in town are at the Ramada Plaza Gwangju Hotel (T. 062-717-7000), but another luxury stay with great views is the Shin Yang Park Hotel (T. 062-228-8000).

SEE> By all means, visit the May 18 National Cemetery. In addition to the graves, there are exhibit halls where you can learn about the history of the Gwangju Democratic Movement.

DO> The May 18 Memorial Foundation (eng.518.org) has created walking tours connecting sites related to the Gwangju Democratic Movement. Free, English-speaking volunteer guides are provided. Give them a ring at 062-457-0518.

FYI> utour.gwangju.go.kr

GO> The fastest way to get to Gwangju from Seoul is via KTX from Yongsan Station (Travel time: just under 3 hours).

Rustic Jeonju Hanok Village 전주 한옥마을

In order to properly appreciate Jeonju Hanok Village, be prepared to get lost. And leave your watch at home.

A maze of picturesque alleyways lined by handsome old Korean homes, Jeonju Hanok Village is a piece of an older, simpler and infinitely slower Korea. Every corner, every back street yields a new discovery. Hidden away amidst the tile roofs and greenery are charming guest houses, quiet teahouses, historic Confucian shrines, artisan workshops and stately old trees that have stood their ground for centuries. If there’s something in particular you’d like to see, by all means, bring a map. Otherwise, experience the town as it was meant to be seen—very, very slowly.

EAT> Tons of great places to eat in Jeonju, including many places in Jeonju Hanok Village itself. It’s best known dish is the Jeonju bibimbap—rice mixed with fresh vegetables and a tangy pepper sauce and served with a spread of side dishes. Jeonju’s best known bibimbap house is Gogung (T. 063-251-3211), a taxi ride from Jeonju Hanok Village. Closer to the hanok village is Gajok Hoegwan (T. 063-284-0982), which is also highly recommended. This writer recommends Seongmidang (T. 063-273-0029), a smaller place hidden in an alley near Gajok Hoegwan. It’s friendly, held in high esteem by locals, and above all, does great food. A Jeonju bibimbap will run you KRW 10,000, or KRW 12,000 for one topped with raw beef (yukhoe bibimbap).

STAY> Jeonju Hanok Village is about hanok, and there’s no better way to experience the charm of a Korean traditional abode than spending a night in one. There are many good hanok guesthouses in the village. One of the better ones is the Hakindang (T. 063-284-9929), a palatial estate built in 1905 by high ranking royal official Baek Nak-jung. When we say palatial, we mean palatial—the home’s architecture incorporates aspects of royal palace design.

SEE> Overlooking Jeonju Hanok Village to the east is a small hill topped by a grand Korean pavilion. The hill provides good views of the entire hanok village.

DO> Experience the paper making process at Jeonju Traditional Korean Paper Center (T. 063-232-6591).

GO> KTX express train service connects Jeonju with Seoul’s Yongsan Station (travel time: about 2 hrs, 10 min). You can also take express buses to Jeonju from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hrs, 45 min).

Pocheon’s Herb Island  포천 허브 아일랜드

There are few better places to take in the fragrances of the Korean spring than Pocheon’s Herb Island. Founded in 1998 to grow, well, herbs, Herb Island is home to a botanical garden, museums, restaurants, an aroma therapy center and much, much more. Most visitors, though, will simply want to stroll amidst the endless fields of flowers, breathing in the scents.

EAT> There are a couple of herb-themed eateries, including one specializing in Korean-style herb ribs. There’s a bakery and cafe, too.

STAY> This is a day trip from Seoul, but if you’d like to stay, Herb Island has some pension houses (some more outlandishly decorated than others) for you to stay at.

SEE> The garden is lit up in multicolored lights at night.

DO> Recover from the stresses of modern life at the Herb Healing Center spa.

GO> Take Bus 57 to Soyosan Station 소요산역 (Line 1) and get off at Samjeong-ri. From there, just walk to Herb Island.

Historic Incheon  인천

Perhaps best known for the dramatic Korean War battle that bears its name, Incheon has served as the world’s gateway to Korea for over a century. In the era of steam and sail, the city’s waterfront played host to a heady mix of races, cultures, religions and languages as the adventurous, ambitious, desperate and devout arrived on Korean shores in search of fortunes and souls. This heritage of cultural exchange has left an indelible imprint on the city—stroll about Incheon’s old town and you’ll come across Chinese townhouses, Japanese banks, colonial-style saloons and Christian churches..

 EAT> Some of the best Chinese food in Korea can be had in Incheon’s Chinatown, Korea’s largest. Some historic eateries to try are Hyangmanseong (T. 032-766-2916) and Pungmi (T. 032-772-2680).

STAY> This is just a day trip from Seoul. If you are going to stay here, though, the Harbor Park Hotel (T. 032-770-9500) near Chinatown has great views of the harbor from the upper floors.

SEE> Incheon’s got plenty of history—many of the old banks and offices in the old Japanese concession are now museums. Incheon Art Platform—a colonial-era warehouse complex—is now a cultural complex with studios and exhibit spaces.

DO> Cruise boats to the scenic Yeongjong Bridge depart from Wolmido Island.

GO> Incheon is the last stop of Seoul Subway Line 1. The entrance to Chinatown is just across the street from Incheon Station.

Samcheok/ Donghae Coastal Walk   삼척/동해 해파랑길

A coastal walking trail—the Haeparang Trail (haeparang.org)—links the entire East Sea coast. The section along the coast of the Gangwon-do towns of Donghae and Samcheok is especially scenic with plenty of cliffs, waterfalls and dramatic rock formations. The trail includes some nice beach walks, too. Just what the doctor ordered to revive body and soul.

EAT> Samcheok’s signature dish is gomchiguk, a spicy soup made from moray eel. The place to go for this is the Donga Sikdang (T. 033-574-5870). This place’s other specialty is seonggye baekban (KRW 10,000)—soup, side dishes and rice, which is mixed bibimbap-style with cooked sea urchin.

STAY> The Donghae Grand Hotel (T. 033-534-6682), on Mangsang Beach, is a three-star place with great views, especially at sunrise. Its indoor and outdoor pools are worth checking out, too.

SEE> Some of the best sunrises in Korea can be had at Chuam Beach, famous for its dramatic rock formations.

DO> While you’re in Donghae, it’s worth hiking in the Mureung Valley, famous for its dramatic cliffs and scenic waterfalls.

GO> Trains to Samcheok depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station. From Samcheok Bus Terminal, take a bus to Bugu Terminal near Bugu Intersection, the beginning of the trail.

Imsil Cheese Village 임실치즈마을

Located just 30 minutes from Jeonju (see above), the town of Imsil is best known as the cheese capital of Korea. You might not associate cheese with Korea, but in 1967, Belgian priest Didier t’Serstevens introduced the art of cheese-making to a small mountain village. The village now produces a wide range of high-quality cheeses, from standards like cheddar and mozzarella to finely aged Gouda.

EAT> Oddly enough, cheese. The Imsil Cheese Theme Park—yes, there is such a place—sells delicious pizzas and spaghetti made with Imsil cheese. You’ll also find restaurants in town serving cheese-infused Korean favorites like bibimbap, samgyeopsal and tteokbokki.

STAY> If you’re not staying in nearby Jeonju, you can try the pension of Imsil Cheese Theme Park (T. 063-643-2300).

SEE> The scenic valley and cliffs of Saseondae.

DO> Cheese-making programs are available. And while not especially related to cheese, Imsil also hosts a “semi-nude” photography festival each spring. Be warned, though—there’s nothing “semi” about the nudity.

GO> Buses to Imsil depart from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal (travel time: 3 hours). From the bus terminal, you’ll need to take a local bus to Imsil Station, where the village is located.

Gyeongju: Ancient Capital of Silla 경주

The ancient capital of the great Korean kingdom of Silla (57 BC−AD 935), the small southeastern city of Gyeongju boasts of one of Korea’s richest scenic and cultural landscapes. It is home to no fewer than three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the magnificent Buddhist monastery of Bulguksa and its sublime Seokguram Grotto, the countless Silla relics of Gyeonggju National Park, and the picturesque Joseon-era community of Yangdong Village. To properly appreciate the place, you need weeks if not months, but even a weekend visit is well worth the time, energy, and money—especially in spring, when the flowers bloom and the town is ablaze in brilliant shades of yellow and pink.

EAT>  Ssambap—rice and meat wrapped in lettuce leaves—is a local specialty. You can find a number of ssambap restaurants at the south entrance of Daereungwon, including Guro Ssambap (T. 054-749-0600). If you’re in a party of two or more, Dosol Maeul (T. 054-748-9232) is worth a try. Specializing in traditional Korean meals (jeongsik), the restaurant is in an old Korean home, mixing taste with atmosphere. You’ll love their mountains of side dishes.

STAY> Where you stay depends on how thick your wallet is. Bomun Lake, a leisure and recreation district to the east of town, is home to many luxury hotels, including the Hilton, Hyundai, and Commodore, just to name a few. If you’re really flush with cash and looking for the Korean traditional experience, look no further than the Millennium Palace Resort & Spa (Ragung), a sumptuous hanok hotel near Bomun Lake. If the beautiful Korean traditional architecture, upscale Korean cuisine, and charming Korean interiors aren’t enough, the private outdoor hot tubs attached to each room should do the trick (T. 054-778-2100).

SEE> The sublime Seokguram Grotto, one of the most spectacular pieces of Buddhist art in the world. The evening reflections at Anapji Pond are worth seeing, too.

DO> Hike Mt. Namsan, a scenic peak covered in Buddhist rock carvings and temple ruins.

GO> KTX trains to Gyeongju depart from Seoul Station (travel time: 2 hours). From Gyeongju’s KTX station, take a bus to Gyeongju City Bus Terminal.

Naksansa Temple  낙산사

Naksansa Temple is one of just a handful of Korean Buddhist temples overlooking the sea. Located in the coastal town of Yangyang, the temple is a place to view truly inspiring sunrises over the East Sea, especially from Uisangdae Pavilion. Naksansa was founded in 671, but history hasn’t been especially kind to it. The temple has been destroyed and reconstructed several times, most recently following a devastating 2005 forest fire that incinerated much of the monastery.

EAT> Nearby is Seorakyeok (T. 033-671-7896), a wooden French restaurant and café famous for its lobster dishes.

STAY> The swankiest place on the beach is the appropriately named Naksan Beach Hotel (T. 033-672-4000), located on a hillside overlooking the sea right next to the temple. Rooms seaside offer great views of the sunrise. There’s a seawater sauna, too.

DO> Naksansa offers Templestay programs, in which a guest can spend the weekend as a Buddhist monk.

SEE> The 15-meter-tall statue of Guanyin, the Buddhist bodhisattva of mercy.

FYI> www.naksansa.org

GO> Express buses to Yangyang depart from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal (travel time: about three hours). From Yangyang Bus Terminal, take bus No. 9 or 9-1 or  a taxi ride (travel time: 10–15 minutes)

Uljin  울진

One of the nicer spots to spend a winter weekend in Korea is Uljin. A small fishing community three hours away from Seoul by bus, Uljin’s quaint provincial feel is as relaxing and reinvigorating as it is disarmingly charming. From the beautiful vistas of the East Sea, backed by the majestic peaks of the Taebaek mountains, to soaking in both the water and splendid scenery in the outdoor baths of Deokgu Spa, the county provides plenty of ways to recharge both mind and spirit.

EAT> Uljin is all about snow crabs. Head to the waterfront around 9am to see the daily crab market, where fishermen and restaurateurs haggle over the morning’s catch.

STAY> One of the spa resorts is recommended.

DO> Soak your ills away at either Baekam Spa or Deokgu Spa. Baekam is Korea’s only radioactive sulfur spa. Its waters can alleviate nervous disorders, arthritis, arteriosclerosis and stomach problems.

SEE> Bulyeongsa Temple is not only a lovely Buddhist temple in its own right, but also sits at the bottom of the spectacular Buryeongsa Valley, a twisting river gorge cutting its way through the Taebaeks to the East Sea. The road along the gorge is also gorgeous.

FYI> http://eng.uljin.go.kr

GO> Buses to Uljin depart from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (travel time: three hours).

Onyang Hot Springs  온양온천

This is one of Korea’s oldest and best-known hot spring resorts, with a history that dates back some 1,300 years. So highly regarded were Onyang’s medicinal waters that they served as the sanitarium of the kings of the Joseon Dynasty; even the beloved King Sejong the Great came here to bathe and recover from illnesses.

Being a spa town, Onyang is home to a good many independent spas, but many visitors simply choose to bathe in one of the more than 100 hotels, which often have their own spas. Certain rooms also come with their own baths.

EAT> Set by the Yellow Sea, Asan is famous for its eel, usually served grilled (jangeo gui). One whole “town” (a road, really) is full of eel restaurants in the township of Inju-myeon.

STAY> Onyang is home to about 120 hotels. An upscale option is Onyang Hot Spring Hotel (T. 041-540-1000).

DO> Bathe, of course. Onyang Hot Spring Hotel and Asan Onchon Hotel (T. 041-541-5526) have spas with great outdoor baths.

SEE> Asan is home to Oeam Folk Village, which was formed during the Joseon Dynasty five centuries ago.

FYI> www.asan.go.kr

GO> Commuter trains for Onyangoncheon Station depart from Seoul Station (Line 1, trains bound for Cheonan). The trip takes two hours, 16 minutes.

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Hwacheon  화천

Rugged mountains, deep blue lakes and rushing rivers—these are what the county of Hwacheon is all about. Just getting there is itself an adventure, with buses following a winding route along the craggy banks of Lake Chuncheon.

For most of the year, Hwancheon is a little more than a sleepy mountain town (albeit a beautiful one). In January, however, its frozen rivers host one of the nation’s most popular winter festivals, the Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (Jan 4—26). Dedicated to the sancheoneo, an indigenous freshwater mountain trout, the event features as its signature event ice fishing. Equipment is on hand, though ice fishing barehanded is also recommended. Plenty of other winter activities are going on, too, like sledding and skating.

EAT> Hwacheon is known for its delicious fish, often served raw. Myeongga (033-442-2957), not far from Hwacheon Bus Terminal, is a great option. Raw fish can get expensive, though. Hwacheon Eojuktang (033-442-5544), located in front of Hwacheon Hydroelectric Power Station, does a mean eojuktang (spicy fish stew) on the cheap.

STAY> About 20 or so motels and Korean-style inns (yeogwan, 여관) in the town.

DO> Go ice fishing. For those with the stomach and endurance for cold, try catching trout barehanded, too.

SEE> Really off the beaten track is the Peace Dam, a rather curious piece of Cold War history.

FYI> www.narafestival.com

GO> Buses to Hwacheon depart from Dong Seoul Terminal (travel time: three hours).

Cheorwon  철원

At one time, the county of Cheorwon-gun was a flourishing railway spot. In the Korean War, however, the county was virtually erased from the map after the brutal Battle of the Iron Triangle. All that remains is eerie ruins.

Cheorwon-gun’s most famous ruins are the Nodongdangsa, the former regional headquarters of the ruling Workers’ Party of (North) Korea. The gutted Soviet-style office is scarred by countless bullet holes and shell marks. Across the Civilian Control Line lay more ruins and Cheorwon Peace Observatory, which offers breathtaking views over this sector of the DMZ. In winter, the area north of the Civilian Control Line is a great place to see migratory birds, particularly cranes.

EAT> A few good places to eat are around Goseokjeong Pavilion.

STAY> Explore the Third Tunnel of Aggression, a North Korean-dug tunnel under the DMZ.

DO> The river gorge around Goseokjeong Pavilion is one of Korea’s most scenic natural spots.

SEE> Most folks do Cheorwon as a day trip.

FYI> To see the sites across the Civilian Control Line requires the services of Hantangang River Tourist Agency (T. 033-450-5558).

GO> Buses to the Nodongdangsa run from Sintan-ri Station, the closest whistle-stop to the DMZ. Transfer to a commuter train at Dongducheon Station (Line 1) to get there.

Jagalchi Fish Market  자갈치 시장

A Busan landmark, this is Korea’s most famous fish market. Housed in a distinctive, seven-story building, this is the place to go for raw fish. The electric, noisy and smelly venue has an infectious energy, and the first floor is where merchants sell fresh fish, shellfish and other slimy beasts of the sea, much of them still alive in tanks. Get here at dawn to witness the daily auction of the day’s catch, fresh off the boats. The second floor mostly has raw fish restaurants. Select a fish and then get it gutted, skinned and sliced to perfection right on the spot. A roof garden has great views of the harbor.

EAT> A specialty of the stalls around the market is kkomjangeo, or charcoal-roasted hagfish marinated in a spicy sauce. Fun fact: the slimy, eel-like hagfish is the world’s only living animal with a skull but no vertebrae.

STAY> Take in the views of Busan harbor from the roof garden.

DO> The especially atmospheric alley right next to Yeongdong Bridge has ramshackle homes that used to be a village of fortune-tellers. Refugees would come here to seek solace in the days of the Korean War.

SEE> Most of the high-end places are in the Haeundae area. Cheaper accommodations are found around Busan Station and the city’s major bus terminals.

FYI> http://english.busan.go.kr

GO> The super-fast KTX gets you to Busan Station from Seoul Station in under 2.5 hours. Numerous flights to Busan’s main air hub Gimhae International Airport also depart from Seoul’s Gimpo International Airport.

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KORAIL O-Train & V-Train  타임스퀘어

The Korea Railroad Corporation, or KORAIL, runs O- and V-Train routes through the scenic mountains of the central region, also known as “snow country.” The O-Train course (257.2 kilometers taking about five hours) connects Seoul with the cities of Jecheon, Taebaek and Yeongju, deep in the heart of the Taebaeks. The observation car offers the best views. The V-Train course (27.7 kilometers) connects the stations of Buncheon and Cheoram along a spectacularly steep section of track. One-day tickets (O-Train: KRW 18,900, V-Train: 8,400) and multi-day passes are available.

www.korail.com, T. 1599-7777

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Taebaeksan Provincial Park  태백산도립공원

The park’s mountain is big but not a particularly difficult one to climb; the path is blissfully smooth. From the upper reaches, the views of the surrounding Taebaeksan range are breathtaking. Bring a flashlight and get to the peak early to see a spectacular sunrise.

In winter, the mountain receives heavy snow, which makes the climb even more scenic. The snow encrusts the windswept trees and bushes; these “snow flowers” produce a fantastic and almost  otherworldly landscape. This time is also when the park hosts the Taebaeksan Mountain Snow Festival (Jan 17–26).

In addition to the scenic splendor, Mt. Taebaeksan is worth climbing for its high spiritual and cultural significance. Korea has many mountains and peaks of spiritual importance, but this mountain is one of the most sacred. According to legend, this was where Hwanung, the son of the king of heaven, came down from heaven to found his own sacred city and teach people how to live.

EAT> In downtown Taebaek, a good restaurant is Neowajip (T. 033-553-4669), which serves fantastic sanchae bibimbap (rice mixed with mountain vegetables, KRW 7,000) .

STAY> View the sunrise from the peak of Mt. Taebaeksan.

DO> Near the peak are ancient yew trees that cut a surreal silhouette against the morning sky.

SEE> The nicest place to stay is High 1 Ski Resort (T. 033-590-7700), which, incidentally, is also home to the country’s lone casino Korean nationals can enter.

FYI> http://tour.taebaek.go.kr

GO> Buses to Taebaek depart from Dong Seoul Terminal (travel time: three hours, 30 minutes).

Maryangpo Sunset & Sunrise Festival  마량포

Taking in the final sunset of the year is a popular New Year’s Eve activity—it gives you an opportunity to ponder the ups and downs of the previous year. The small fishing port of Maryangpo in Seocheon, Chungcheongnam-do is special in that thanks to a quirk of geography, it offers views of both the sunset and sunrise. This quirk has not been lost on the local authorities, who have organized the Maryangpo Sunset & Sunrise Festival (Dec 31–Jan 1). Some 20,000 folk showed up for this festival last month—the sunrise was nice, and the free bowls of tteokguk didn’t hurt, either. There are also concerts, cultural events, balloon releases and more.

EAT> Enjoy a free bowl of tteokguk in the morning.

SEE> Unsurprisingly, the sunset and sunrise.

DO> Take part in the daljip taeugi, or “Burning the Moon House.” During this ritual, a tipi-like straw and twig house is burned as a prayer for blessings in the new year.

STAY>The village of Maryang-ri has a couple of minbak (home stay) facilities for you to stay at.

FYI> http://sunrise.invil.org (Korean only)

GO> Take a bus from Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal to Seocheon (travel time: 2 hours, 20 min). From Seocheon Bus Terminal, take a bus to Dongbaekjeong (travel time: 1 hour).

Deogyusan National Park and Muju Deogyusan Resort   덕유산 국립공원 & 무주 리조트

With the ski season coming up, no list of winter destinations would be complete without mention of Muju Deogyusan Resort, one of Korea’s most popular winter sports venues. The site of the 1997 Winter Universiade, Muju Deogyusan Report boasts of both Korea’s longest slope, the 6.1km Silk Road Course (vertical height of 810m), and Korea’s steepest run, the Raider’s Slope with a 70 degree incline. After your ski (or snowboarding, if that’s your thing), sooth your soar muscles with a soak in the resort’s outdoor hot spring. The resort is at the base of Deogyusan National Park, a mountain park that offers some of the best winter scenery in the land.

EAT> A wide selection of food and entertainment is available: Korean and Western restaurants, pubs, snack bars, karaoke parlors, and café lounges.

SEE> The sunrises from the peak of Mt. Deogyusan (1,614m) are especially beautiful, but you’ll need to spend the night at Hyangjeokbong Shelter (T. 063-322-1614, KRW 8,000)

DO> The resort has a lot to offer—skiing, sledding hills, snowmobile rides, outdoor sauna, amusement parks and a golf driving range.

STAY> The resort has three hotels of varying rates. One can spend the night in a jjimjilbang there as well.

FYI> www.deogyusanresort.com (T. 063-322-9000, 063-320-7367)

GO> Intercity buses depart from Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal to Muju Bus Terminal at 7:40am, 9:20am, 10:40am, 1:40pm, and 2:35pm. Take the free shuttle bus to Deogyusan Resort from Muju Terminal. For inquiries, call T. 063-320-7113.

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Pohang’s Homigot Cape  호미곶

If the Korean Peninsula is a tiger clawing at the Asian mainland, Homigot Cape is its tail. The mainland’s easternmost point, the cape is the place to come to see the earliest sunrises—on New Years Day, it’s flooded by tourists who come to take in the first sunrise of the year. Homigot Sunrise Plaza is dominated by the “Hands of Coexistence,” two giant iron hands, one rising from the land, the other rising dramatically from the waves just off the beach. The hand rising from the sea provides a rather nice resting spot for local seagulls—one can usually be found sitting on the tip of each digit. If you’re a lighthouse lover, you’ll definitely want to check out the National Lighthouse Museum, where you’ll find everything you’ve wanted to know about lighthouses but were afraid to ask.

EAT> Plenty of places to eat around Homigot Sunrise Plaza—expect some of these places to be open on the first sunrise of the year. A local specialty is mulhoe, or sliced raw fish mixed with pear slices.

SEE> Check out Homigot Lighthouse, one of Korea’s oldest, largest and most beautiful lighthouses—note the intricate details on the doors and windows.

DO> Take in the first sunrise of the year, which, not coincidentally, is also the time of the Homigot Sunrise Festival. There will be concerts, cultural performances, and plenty of tteokguk (Korean rice cake soup, a New Year’s Day specialty).

STAY> Around Homigot you’ll find the Haesu Motel (T. 054-284-8044) and Haesong Motel (T. 054-284-8245). There’s also a number of minbakjip (homestays) you can use.

GO> Assuming the sunrise is what you’re after, the best way to get to Pohang is by taking the night bus from Seoul Express Bus Terminal—there are buses at 10:40pm, 11:30pm and 12:30am (travel time: 4 hours, 40 minutes). From Pohang Express Bus Terminal, however, you’ll need to take a cab to Homigot Sunrise Plaza—expect to pay about KRW 25,000 or more. Of course, if you arrive in Pohang during the day, you could just take a bus.

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Yongpyong Ski Resort   용평 리조트

Yongpyong Ski Resort is Korea’s premier ski destination. Located high in the dramatic mountains of central Korea, the resort combines fantastic scenery, first-class facilities, and a whole lot of fun. One of the principle venues of the upcoming 2018 Winter Olympics, it draws visitors from all over Korea, Asia, and the rest of the world.

The resort has 28 ski slopes in all, graded beginner to expert; the pros will want to make for the Rainbow Slopes. The resort’s 15 lifts will get you to where you want to go, and even non-skiers will want to take the 3.7km cable car to the top of Mt. Balwangsan (1,458m), where you’ll find the iconic Swiss chalet-style restaurant/coffee shop called Dragon Peak. Snowboarders will find much to like, too. At the bottom of the slopes is Dragon Plaza, the largest ski house in Asia.

EAT> There are Korean and Western restaurants at Dragon Peak, the chalet-like building at the top of Mt. Balwangsan. The spaghetti is quite good, and the views are even better.

SEE> The sunrise from the peak of Mt. Balwangsan.

DO> Future Olympians should test themselves on Rainbow I (1,630m), Yongpyong’s longest slope.

STAY> Yongpyong Resort offers a range of accommodations options. Those on a budget will want to use the Yongpyong Hostel. Be sure to make reservations early, though (T. 02-3270-1231)!

FYI> Lift passes are KRW 30,000—60,000. Rental equipment available. T. 02-3270-1231, www.yongpyong.co.kr.

GO> Shuttle bus service available from Seoul’s Lotte World. See website for details.

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2013 Busan New Year’s Festival  부산

Korea’s second city of Busan rings in the New Year—quite literally—with a midnight bell-ringing ceremony at landmark Yongdusan Park. Oh, but that’s not all—locals and tourists alike will gather in the wee hours of the morning at Haeundae Beach to welcome the first sunrise of the new year. In addition, there will be a New Year’s balloon release, fireworks, concerts and other cultural activities and performances. If nothing else, it presents a great opportunity to explore one of Korea’s most fascinating towns.

EAT> Busan is rightfully famous for its seafood—the best place to score it is the sprawling Jagalchi Market. Another popular dish is dwaeji gukbap, a hearty soup made with rice and chunks of pork. A very popular place for this is Ssangdungi Dwaeji Gukbap (T. 051-628-7020) near Daeyeon Station. Coffee and tea will also be provided during the festival.

SEE> If you’d prefer to see the sunrise elsewhere, the seaside cliffs of Taejongdae Park are a perfect venue for it.

DO> Join the crowds for the New Year’s countdown at Yongdusan Park.

STAY> Busan has the best selection of hotels anywhere outside of Seoul. Most of the high-end places, including the Westin Chosun Beach Hotel, Park Hyatt Busan, and Paradise Hotel Busan, can be found in the Haeundae area. Cheaper accommodations can be found around Busan Station and Busan’s major bus terminals.

FYI> http://festival.busan.kr

GO> The KTX gets you to Busan from Seoul Station in less than three hours.

If you prefer flying, flights to Busan’s Gimhae Airport depart from Seoul’s Gimpo Airport.

Chuncheon  춘천

Nestled in the rugged snow-capped peaks of the province of Gangwon-do, this warm and inviting provincial capital is a land of mountains, lakes and rivers. A mere hour from Seoul, it gives world-weary Seoulites a place to escape the urban jungle for a day or two, to rejuvenate amid beautiful scenery and enjoy good food before returning once again to the daily grind.

One of the area’s most famous winter spots is Namiseom, a riverine island about 30 minutes southwest of downtown Chuncheon in the town of Gangchon. A private arboretum founded by late governor of the Bank of Korea Minn Byeong-do (1916–2006) in 1965, it’s crisscrossed by beautiful tree-lined walking paths and home to restaurants and cultural facilities. Ferries to the island depart from a dock connected to Chuncheon by frequent buses; you can also take a zip line across the river, too.

EAT> Chuncheon’s two signature dishes are Chuncheon-style pan-fried chicken ribs (Chuncheon dakgalbi) and buckwheat noodles (makguksu). The best place to score dakgalbi is Myeong-dong Dakgalbi Alley, across from Chuncheon City Hall. Here you’ll find about 20 restaurants specializing in the dish. You can find places serving makguksu all over, but give Nambu Makguksu (T. 033-256-7856) near Chuncheon Police Station a try.

SEE> When the weather cooperates, the Soyanggang River is a great place to see hoarfrost, which turns the landscape into a winter wonderland.

DO> If you have a head for heights, forgo the ferry to Namiseom and take the zip line instead. Beginning at an elevation of 80m, it will take you nearly a kilometer over the river.

STAY> Downtown Chuncheon has a wide range of small and medium-sized accommodations. The nicest place to stay in the area, however, is the Naminara Hotel (T. 031-580-8000) on Namiseom. The hotel’s rooms are decorated with the works of noted artists, turning a night here into a cultural experience.

GO> ITX express trains to Chuncheon depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station (travel time: 64 minutes).

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Jeongdongjin   정동진

The East Sea beach of Jeongdongjin in the province of Gangwon-do offers some of the most spectacular sunrises in all of Korea. It is also home to the world’s closest train station to the sea—Jeongdongjin Station is, quite literally, on the beach.

Every New Year, sunrise gazers throughout Korea descend on the beach to take in the inspiring sunrises and pray for a healthy and happy year ahead. Over the last decade, the Jeongdongjin’s fame has grown and, perhaps unsurprisingly, the spot has seen quite a bit of development, some of it a tad on the garish side. The most charming spot consists of a couple of wind-swept pines and a simple bench not far from the station itself, a reminder of the peaceful, forlorn Jeongdongjin of old.

EAT> Jeongdongjin now has tons of cafés, many of which are bound to be open for the first sunrise of the year.

SEE> Not far from Jeongdongjin is Gangneung Unification Park, where you can see a North Korean submarine that was captured following an infiltration attempt in 1996. There’s a retired South Korean destroyer you can see, too.

DO> Go with somebody you love.

STAY> There are plenty of places to stay in nearby Gangneung if you want to stay in the area. Not far from Jeongdongjin is the architecturally inspired Hasila Museum Hotel (T. 033-644-9414, www.haslla.kr), run by a sculptor couple. Rooms start at KRW 300,000, but they are works of art—all 24 suits face the ocean.

GO> The night train to Jeongdongjin departs from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station at 11:15pm and arrives at 4.26am.

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