While the idea of spending a cold winter’s day on the coast may not sound like a good time, Gijang has a lot to offer, from hearty seafood dishes to keep you full and trendy cafés to relax in to the tons of warm smiles from the local people. Gijang is an area that is slowly becoming one of the region’s fastest growing spots thanks to its spectacular views and great food.

Catches of the day

If you are arriving by train, then you are in a prime location to check out the Gijang Market. Once leaving the station, it is a short walk up to the market. This large and mostly outdoor market is widely known for its snow crab and fresh seafood. In years gone by the market had a large variety of delectables, but the popularity of the crab has brought in many tourists. During the weekend, the market gets really busy with people from all over coming to check out the catch of the day.

However, if you want to find the freshest of the fresh you have to head down to the seaside village of Daebyeon. This quaint village is famous for anchovies, but you can find just about anything from the sea there. What makes Daebyeon great is that you can eat right on the coast in one of the many tents that line the street through the village. Just a few meters away from your table, the ships come and unload their catches. It does not get any fresher than that.

The local favourite is located just on the other side of the post, in Yeonhwa-ri. They have dedicated a whole area to the pojang macha tents, and the seafood is on another level. This is a great spot to try the abalone rice porridge and fresh raw octopus. These tents serve up some great food that will keep you warm as you explore the seaside village and feed the seagulls at Juk-do island.

Caffeinating in style

What has really put the seaside villages on the map have been the numerous cafés that have popped up along the coast. These cafés offer unobstructed views of the sea, great design and amazing pastries.

One of the most popular cafés has to be Wave On Café. Located just up from Daebyeon, this café has one of the most unique designs in the area. While the outdoor seating and rooftop may not be the best choice for a winter excursion, the open-concept interior will offer shelter from the chill. This is a very popular spot, especially on the weekends boasting live music lineups that rival some of the hotspots in Seoul.

Not too far from Wave On is another amazing café more suited for staying warm in the winter. Café Greetvi is massive café with some amazing pastries baked on the premises. Much like the other cafés, Greetvi offers a great view of the sea, an open rooftop and an outdoor patio. However, the interior design really sets this café apart. With style and taste, Greetvi offers a very comfortable atmosphere, but like the other seaside cafés, it suffers from their popularity.

If the crowds scare you off, Fred will surely keep you safe. This pet-friendly café is as charming as it is comfortable. It is a “no-kid zone,” so please be aware of that if you are traveling with the family. The reason for this probably has something to do with Becky and Seol, the cafés resident canines.

The dogs are amazingly calm as they rarely bark and wander around to greet the customers. This café has almost a Santorini feel to it and is exceptionally comfortable. The lack of children may throw some visitors off, but it also does add a bit of peace and quiet for others. The top floor opens onto a rooftop terrace that seems more fit for a hillside in a warmer climate than a cold afternoon in Korea, but the interior is quite warm and inviting. It is also just a stone’s throw away from the new Hilton Hotel and Yonggungsa Temple.

Seeing the sites

The Gijang area is best toured by car, but buses and trains stop regularly at various points along the way. Having a car out here just makes travel a lot easier and warmer. By far, the coastal road is one not to miss as there are a lot of great sites to see.

Jukseong Dream Church

One of the more unusual spots in the area is the Jukseong Dream Church. The church is not a functioning church but a drama set. It was built in the early 2000s for the SBS drama “Dream” and has now become a tourist destination. The sunrise is arguably the best time to get a good picture of the church. This is when you will see a lot of photographers lined up along the narrow country road trying to recreate the photos that put this spot on the map.

Orangdae

Down the road past Daebyeon Port is another interesting structure. Located on a rocky outcropping, this temple of sorts is a one of the smallest you’ll see but is host to many rituals in the mornings. It is another great spot to catch the sunrise.

Lighthouses

One of the more interesting things to see along the coast are the themed lighthouses. If you have a sharp eye, in Daebyeon you will see one of the lighthouses commemorating the 2002 World Cup. Further down the road in Yeongsang-ri, you can find another shaped like a baby bottle. These lighthouses have become tourist spots especially for those wanting to have a baby. Many are easily accessible and your can walk right up and just take in the breathtaking sea views.

Outlet shopping

If you were not impressed with the Gijang market, then surely the ever-growing Busan Premium Outlet Mall might be more to your taste. Boasting major brands, this is one of the go-to spots for many in Busan and Ulsan.

The popularity of this mall can be quite staggering at times. Often traffic is quite bad just getting into the mall. Fortunately, Lotte has stepped up and built their own outlet mall on the other side of Gijang, just behind Yonggungsa.

Both of these malls offer great deals on popular brands in a more Western-style shopping mall environment. Buses and shuttles leave there regularly so you can get your shopping fix easily.

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STAY> Gijang has a number of affordable places or motels that a budget-minded traveler can choose from. Also there are a number of hotels located around Yeonhwa-ri. The IW Hotel offers a spectacular view of the beach and is close the Jukdo and the seafood stalls.

If you are looking for something a little more luxurious, the new Hilton Hotel is the area’s premier hotel. Just recently completed, it offers unparalleled service an spectacular views.

EAT> Gijang is famous for fresh seafood. Head to Gijang Market and try some fresh snow crab at prices a little better than at Jagalchi. If you are looking for fresh-from-the-ocean delights, try Songjeong Halmae (010-3886-6168, tent #16, on the end). Located at the end of the Yeonhwa-ri pojang macha zone, it is a local favorite for abalone rice porridge and fresh octopus.

GO> It takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes to get from Seoul Station to the Busan KTX station. From there you can jump on the train to Gijang.

Buses leave regularly from Seoul to the Busan. It takes about four hours to get to Busan, depending on road and traffic conditions. Again, taxis and local buses are readily available.

Written and photographed by Jason Teale

Jayu-ro – “Freedom Road” – is an odd place, sometimes unnervingly so. For starters, it may be the world’s most geopolitically unconventional highway. Linking Seoul and Paju’s Imjinggak Pavilion, the gateway to North Korea, the road hugs the heavily fortified Hangang and Imjingang rivers, the mountains of the DPRK visible just across the water, except at night, when the land on the other side is so disquietingly dark it’s like staring over the edge of the world. The watchtowers and barbed wire remind travelers that this is the world’s most militarized border, a frontier former U.S. president Bill Clinton called “the scariest place on Earth.” That this is less than an hour’s bus ride from Seoul’s Hapjeong Station makes it all the more surreal.

Despite the barbed wire, however, the stretch of country along Jayu-ro is one of great beauty and tranquility. The wetlands of the Hangang River estuary teem with life, the mudflats and fields of reed offering shelter and sustenance to fauna such as shellfish and migratory birds. The proximity of the DMZ, one of the world’s longest unintentional nature preserves, encourages an atmosphere of peace and relaxation, an atmosphere that encouraged the development in the region of two of the country’s best known artistic communities, Paju Book City and Heyri Art Valley. This is where you go on a weekend to relax over a good book or a hot cup of coffee, to let your worries fly away in the autumn wind.

Wetland of culture, forest of wisdom

Hop on the double-decker Bus 2200 at Hapjeong Station. A 40-minute drive along the Hangang River later, you’ll come to a quiet wetland filled with buildings so chic and so unexpected as to seem out of place. Welcome to Paju Book City.

Inspired by Hay-on-Wye, Wales’s “town of books,” Paju Book City is a complex dedicated to the creation of the written word. It’s currently home to over 50 cultural spaces, including publishing houses, workshops, book cafés, book stores, art shops, museums and galleries. To fans of visually appealing architecture and design, the “city” is like a box of chocolates, boasting work by many respected local and overseas architects, all wedged into a narrow strip of wetland between the Hangang River and a hillock overlooking the town. Indeed, as you stroll around the complex, it seems as if the resident companies competed with one another to build the prettier building.

With its cafés, cultural centers and Instagrammable spaces, Paju Book City might be expected to draw huge crowds on the weekend. Fortunately, that is not the case. The town empties when the local publishers close for the weekend, leaving behind a place that can seem a bit like a ghost town. That’s alright, though – the book cafés and strolls along the reed creeks are best enjoyed in peace and quiet.

Paju Book City’s best recognized landmark is the Asia Publication Culture & Information Center, a massive, elegantly designed structure of steel plate, concrete and wood standing in the middle of a pond of reeds. The multipurpose space, which hosts lectures, forums and educational programs, has conference rooms, bookshops, exhibit spaces, classrooms, cafés, restaurants and even a lovely guest house, the Jijihyang, where the rooms are unequipped with televisions. The Asia Publication Culture & Information Center’s true claim to fame, however, is its so-called “Forest of Wisdom,” a cavernous reading space lined by 20,000 titles stacked on shelves eight meters high. Grab a book, get a cup of coffee from the coffee shop and have a seat, preferably next to one of the windows that look onto the wetlands. Get there early, though – this is the one part of Paju Book City that does fill up on a weekend.

Also worth visiting is the Mimesis Museum, a white concrete building with feline curves designed by renowned Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira.

Valley of art

Hop again on Bus 2200 and ride another 20 minutes or so until you reach Hyeri Art Valley. Founded in 1998, Hyeri Art Valley was intended as a creative community, a place where painters, sculptors, musicians, filmmakers and other artists could work in the peace and quiet of rural Paju. Like Paju Book City, the town was designed with aesthetics in mind, its workshops, galleries and performing venues commissioned to leading architects from Korea and abroad.

To be sure, the architecture at Hyeri Art Valley is first rate. The Blume Museum Of Contemporary Art, easily recognized by its undulating concrete mass and the oak tree sticking out of its façade, is especially lovely. Book House Foresta, a café and museum space operated by Hangil Publishing, delights with its face of wooden planks and its high open spaces.

Given the large numbers of Seoulites who descend on the place on a weekend, however, it’s hard to imagine much artistic creation happening between Friday night and Monday morning. On a weekend, the town takes on the appearance of a kapechon, or “café village,” a cluster of cafés that seemingly exists for the pleasure of urban day trippers. This doesn’t make it a bad place. Far from it – the cafés are delightful, and there are outdoor markets where you can purchase handicrafts, vintage clothing and other products. If you’re looking for a quiet artists’ commune, however, go on a weekday.

Glimpses of North Korea

From Hyeri Art Village, hop on Bus 900 and take it to the last stop, the Odusan Unification Observatory Rest Area. From there, you can hop on a free shuttle bus to Odusan Unification Observatory, a scenic hilltop overlooking the confluence of the Hangang and Imjingang Rivers. More to the point, it overlooks North Korea, offering direct, unobstructed views of what was, prior to 1945, the northern half of the country. Using the binoculars available at the observatory, you can get a closer look at the villages, fields and mountains on the other side of the river. Likewise, you could just sit back and take in the beautiful scenery where two of Korea’s great rivers meet. The sunsets are especially inspiring. As elsewhere along the DMZ, you feel a profound sense of calm. Maybe this isn’t what you’d expect at the Cold War’s last remaining frontier, but there you have it.

You get a similar feeling at Imjingak, the northern end of Jayu-ro. Built in 1972, this park on the Imjingang River stands on what was the old railway line that linked Seoul with Pyongyang and other northern cities. Two railway bridges -– one left in ruins after it was destroyed during the Korean War, the other rebuilt afterwards -– still cross the river. You, however, may not, except on special trains that take tourists to Dorasan Station, which overlooks the DMZ.

For many Koreans, Imjingak was as close to North Korea as they could get. Koreans who hailed from what is now North Korea, unable to return to their hometowns, visit on holidays to offer group memorial rites at an altar erected in 1985. Using binoculars, you can even see the mountains of North Korea.

Imjingak is also home to Pyeonghwa-Nuri Park, a beautiful landscape of green, windswept hills and pleasure ponds, punctuated by works of installation art, including a series of four giant, bamboo men seemingly walking up a hill, a work that serves as a prayer for peace and national reunification. The park also has a pleasant café overlooking a pond and the so-called “Hill of Wind,” an elevation covered with countless pinwheels.

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EAT> Between Paju Book City and Hyeri Art Valley, you’ll be tripping over cafés. For something more substantial, though, Paju – or at least the hamlet of Jangdan – is known for its high quality soybeans. You can find lots of places specializing in Jangdan bean cuisine, including cheonggukjang stew and soft bean curd, in the village of Seongdong, near Hyeri Art Valley.

GO> Paju Book City and Hyeri Art Valley can be reached easily by Bus 2200 from Hapjeong Station (Line 6). To get to Imjingak from there, however, requires a longish taxi ride or some bus hopping. Of course, if you’d like to go directly to Imjingak from Seoul, just take the Gyeongui Line from Seoul Station to Imjingang Station.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Yeongju soothes the soul with history, traditions and inspiration

Yeongju is a land of healing.

From old Confucian academies where the spirit of Korea’s scholars live on to serene Buddhist temples with majestic mountain vistas, the southwestern town at the foot of the Sobaeksan Mountains offers visitors many opportunities to relax, recharge and rejuvenate. With spectacular views and rich local traditions, the town exudes a restorative energy that salves the physical and psychological wounds of urban life. Though easy to access as a major railway hub, the city is still relatively under-appreciated as a travel destination, meaning you can enjoy the bucolic charms in relative peace and tranquility.

The seonbi spirit

The seonbi spirit is alive Yeongju. The virtuous scholars of Joseon (1392-1910), men who forsook prestigious and powerful positions in the royal bureaucracy to live quiet lives of integrity and academic pursuit, the seonbi were old Korea’s heart and soul. They were philosophers and poets who remained true to their convictions, often at great risk to their lives and property. Working for good, refusing to compromise with injustice, they could “look at the heavens without a bit of shame.”

Blessed with high mountains, deep valleys and winding river, a landscape that lends itself to scholastic contemplation, Yeongju has produced many a seonbi over the centuries. There’s no more breathtaking evidence of this than Sosu Seowon, a historical Confucian academy hidden in a forest near the hamlet of Punggi. Punggi magistrate Ju Se-bong, himself a scholar of considerable renowned, founded the school in 1543 to pay tribute to the great academic and local son An Hyang (1243-1306), the man who brought neo-Confucian thought from China. Though private Confucian academies, or seowon, would become commonplace in Joseon, with many scholars establishing such schools throughout the countryside, Sosu Seowon was the progenitor of them all. Crucially, it was the first to receive a royal charter, with the court bestowing onto the school a signboard written by King Myeongjong himself.

Like Korea’s other great seowon, Sosu Seowon enchants the visitor with an understated charm, its modest, rustic beauty an architectural expression of Confucian virtue. The cluster of wooden lecture halls and pavilions, surrounded by wooded hills and with a stream to its right, blends in harmoniously with its surroundings. Typical of seowon, which combined academic and spiritual functions, there’s also a memorial shrine to several great Confucian scholars, including An Hyang.

The most beautiful spot, however, is the Chwihandae Pavilion, a small wooden gazebo hidden in the woods just across the stream near the entrance of the academy.

Right next to Sosu Seowon is Seonbichon Village, a folk village of sorts where visitors can learn about and experience the seonbi tradition, with programs ranging from Korean calligraphy classes to traditional weddings and making rice cakes. Several historical homes, including both tile roofed aristocratic houses and thatched roof commoner dwellings, have been relocated to the village; some have been repurposed as guest houses. It’s a very pleasant spot in which to stroll and snap some photos.

Temple of the Floating Rock

Of Korea’s countless Buddhist temples, Buseoksa Temple may be the most beautiful.

Named for a large stone that seemingly floats next to the sancturary’s main hall, Buseoksa, or “Temple of the Floating Rock,” is a masterpiece of traditional architecture. Sitting high on the slopes of Mt. Bonghwangsan, the complex perched on a series of nine stone terraces, the temple makes masterful use of its surroundings, offering inspiring views of the mighty Sobaeksan Mountains, especially at sunset. To reach the main courtyard, visitors must climb nine flights of stone steps for a total of 108 steps. In Buddhism, nine and 108 are significant numbers, the first representing the nine degrees of rebirth before you can enter Nirvana, the second signifying the 108 defilements that torment the human condition. Accordingly, as you climb the steps, you are symbolically reborn, shedding defilements before you at last enter the temple’s main courtyard and, metaphorically, Nirvana.

Uisang Daesa, one of the greatest monks of classical Korea, founded the temple in 676. The monastery is a virtual museum of religious architecture and art, home to no fewer than five National Treasures and many other important pieces of tangible heritage. Efforts are currently underway to register the temple on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The jewel in Buseoksa’s crown is its magnificent main hall, or Muryangsujeon. The current structure dates from 1376, making it one of only a handful of surviving wooden buildings from the Goryeo Kingdom. The hall, which enshrines the Amitabha Buddha at its west end, exudes a effortless elegance with its earthy tones and simple roof bracketing.

Near Buseoksa is Mt. Sobaeksan and the eponymously named Sobaeksan National Park. Reaching a height of 1,439.5 meters, Mt. Sobaeksan is not an especially challenging hike, its main ridge gently undulating through a series of peaks topped by great fields of grass. It’s a long walk, though, especially if you walk the entire ridge, which can take you two days. With little tree cover, it can get quite windy as well.

For something a bit more relaxing, try the National Forest Healing Center, a nationally operated spa surrounded by dense forests on the lower slopes of Mt. Sobaeksan. The center offers a variety of short-term and long-term therapy programs designed to bring physical and psychological healing to the world-weary. It’s a very holistic experience, with pools, saunas, forest walks, gardens, meditation classes, healthy meals, rooms without televisions and more. See the website (http://daslim.fowi.or.kr) for more details.

Island in a stream

In the hamlet of Munsu-myeon, nestled on a remote oxbow where the Naeseongcheon and Yeongjucheon streams come together, is a picturesque village of 100 or so souls, mostly descendants of the Bannam Park and Yean Kim clans, who began settling the bend in the river in the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. Museom Village, the name of which translates as “Island in a Stream,” boasts many old Korean-style homes, including over a dozen historical homes from the late Joseon era. The peaceful community is like a smaller version of Hahoe Village, a Joseon-era oxbow village in the neighboring town of Andong that was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2010.

For most of its history, Museom Village was an isolated place virtually unknown outside of Yeongju. This is changing, however, as television and Instagram conspire to put the community on the tourist map. Some homes are now guest houses, restaurants and cafés, and indeed, the village is one of the better places in Yeongju to stay.

Museom Village’s biggest draw, by far, is its quaint single-lane log bridge, which snakes its way for 150 meters across the stream to link the village with the outside world. For over three centuries, this was the only way to get to the village. A concrete road bridge was added in 1979, but most visitors have a go at crossing the narrow foot bridge anyway. On a weekend, the foot bridge can get quite crowded. Early risers, though, are rewarded by a bridge that’s not only empty, but also blanketed in early morning mist.

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STAY> A major railroad transportation junction, Yeonju has many reasonably priced hotels and motels. For something a bit more sophisticated, though, try the Goeheon Old House (T. 054-636-1755) or Ueom Old House (T. 054-637-1537), two historical mansions outside of town. You could also stay in Seonbichon Village or Museom Village.

EAT> Museom Sikdang, in Museom Village, offers delightful spreads with broiled fish, cheonggukjang, rice and side dishes.

Jjolmyeon, a bowl of chewy noodles served with a tangy sauce, is something of a local favorite. Try Jungang Bunsik or Nadeuri Bunsik in downtown Yeongju for this cheap dish.

GO> Trains to Yeongju depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station (travel time: 2 hours, 45 minutes). Alternatively, you can take a bus from Gangnam Express Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 40 minutes).

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Enjoy the waves and commune with nature in Korea’s surfing capital

The atmosphere is laid back. Gone is the ppali ppali, or “hurry up” mood that is so typical of Korean life these days. Instead, people are lounging, cruising the streets on longboards, enjoying a beverage, or getting ready to hit the waves for a surf session. This is Yangyang. This unassuming fishing and farming area has become one of the hottest surfing destinations in Korea.

Yangyang County is located in Gangwondo, in the northeastern part of the South Korean peninsula. With a population of less than 50,000, one would be forgiven for writing it off as a sleepy country town. However, Yangyang is blessed with natural beauty that has made it a popular destination for people from all over the country and the world. Located on the eastern seaboard right between Gangneung and Sokcho, Yangyang is lined with numerous white sand beaches, picturesque rock formations and sunrise views that the eastern part of the peninsula is so famous for.

Jukdo Beach

Jukdo Beach is one the top destinations for surfing in Yangyang. It is said to have the largest number of surf shops in the area. Walking around Jukdo Beach and the adjacent Ingu Beach, you will see colorful buildings, a lot of which are surf shops, guest houses, cafés, pubs or a combination of all these things. It seems that many young entrepreneurs who left the big city looking for a more laid-back lifestyle can be found here. The decor is hip and the crowd is young. This is quite understandable since Seoul is only a couple of hours drive via the Seoul-Yangyang expressway. Crowds of people flock to the coastal town on weekends and holidays to relax and hit the waves.

Surfers of all levels can enjoy the waves here. In Yangyang, the waves are mild in the summer, which is great for beginners. Many surf shops offer lessons for those who are just starting out. As the temperatures drop in autumn in winter, the waves pick up and draw more experienced surfers. Yangyang has hosted numerous international surfing festivals over the years, many of which happen in the fall.

Before (or after) you go out and hit the waves, visitors can enjoy a wide variety of food and drink in the area.  The menus are very western, consisting of burgers, pizza, fries, nachos and other fare quite fitting for the surfer vibe of the area. Have a coffee or beer while enjoying beachfront views at Aloha Wave Kitchen and Pub. Or if you are craving craft beer, Yangyang Chemistry offers a wide variety of local brews as well as great bar chow.

Other popular activities on Jukdo beach include scuba diving, fishing or just enjoying a good swim and barbecue with family and friends.

Naksansa Temple

Visitors who are craving a more traditional or spiritual experience will enjoy Naksansa. The 1,300 year old temple was built by Uisang, one of the ancient Silla Kingdom’s greatest monks. The temple is spread out over a large area and houses numerous cultural assets. Noteable assets include a seven-story pagoda, the Hongyaemun Gate and a copper bell. There is also a large stone statue of the Bodhisattva of Mercy, the largest of its kind in East Asia.

One of the most picturesque areas of Naksansa Temple is the Uisangdae Pavillon. Built on top of a cliff by the sea, this is the place where Uisang would sit and meditate. Nearby on an opposite cliff is the Hongryeonam Temple. This small temple is built on top of a stone cave through which you can view the ocean below.

Naksansa Temple is also a Templestay destination. Participants of this cultural program can experience the life of Buddhist practitioners, from early morning communes with nature, meditation and connecting with your inner voice. What better place to do this than among the pine trees, seaside cliffs and tranquil surroundings of Naksansa.

Sunrise and landscapes

Yangyang’s position along the eastern seaboard makes it an ideal place to view the sunrise. Photographers and landscape enthusiasts will particularly appreciate the prominent rock formations protruding from the sea. Add the uniquely-shaped pine trees, which are ubiquitous in this area, and you have beautiful landscapes that are reminiscent of ancient Eastern landscape paintings.

Hajodae is one of the best places to view such a landscape. Located on the eastern tip of Hajodae Beach, this lookout features a well-known unmanned lighthouse as well as a lone pine tree perched on a cliff. It is the perfect place go for a morning walk and view the sunrise.

Yangyang also has other beautiful landscapes located further inland. Micheongeol Valley is a lesser-known, and in effect, a more untouched destination. This valley has a rich forest, clean water and rock formations.

There are also numerous ecological parks in Yangyang. These protected areas feature an abundance of trees and plants, which is great for nature walks and exploration. One such park is the Namdaecheon Stream Salmon Ecological Park (남대천연어생태공원). The Namdaecheon stream is considered one of the cleanest in the region, and every year during autumn a large population of salmon return to this area, hence the name. The area has long walking trails, tall grass and a sea breeze that will surely ease the mind.

The mighty mushroom

Yangyang has two representative products and an annual festival for each of them.  One of these products is salmon.  Every year during autumn, 70% of Korea’s salmon population returns to Yangyang. The result is fresh catches of salmon and a wide variety of grilled, fried and raw salmon dishes for people to enjoy. The Yangyang Salmon Festival highlights this with contests, exhibitions, performances and other events.

The other representative product of Yangyang is the Pine Mushroom, or Songi. These mushrooms, which grow naturally on the Taebaeksanmaek Mountain Ridge, feature a thick texture and strong scent. Like the salmon festival, the Yangyang Songi Festival also features a wide variety of activities and festivities to celebrate the local delicacy.

Visitors can enjoy pine mushroom dishes at several establishments around the area. This writer recommends the Songi Mushroom Hotpot at Matsutake Mushroom Town.

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STAY> Yangyang has a wide variety of accommodation options, from high-end resort hotels, such as the Sol Beach Resort (T. 1588-4888), to motels and pensions.  Those going there for surfing might find it most convenient to stay at the guest houses provided by the surf shops in the area.

EAT> For seasonal salmon dishes as well as other local fish dishes such as Yangyang’s staple ddugeoritang, check out Cheonseon Restaurant (T. 33-672-5566).
For a wide variety of mushroom dishes including the well-known pine mushroom hotpot, visit Matsutake Mushroom Town (T. 33-672-3145).

GO> Buses to Yangyang Intercity Terminal depart from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal or Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours 50 minutes).  There is also the Yangyang International Airport (YNY), which also serves the nearby areas of Sokcho, Gangneung and Pyeongchang.

Written and photographed by Roy Cruz

Valleys, streams and waterfalls around Gapyeong offer precious respite from the summer heat

For all the draw of Seoul’s pace and adrenaline, nothing beats the feeling when your train finally pulls out of an inner city station on the way to the countryside. The 2012 launch of the ITX express service to Chuncheon, in mountainous Gangwon-do Province east of Seoul, put another part of the provinces within easy reach. Just 40 minutes from the capital’s Cheongnyangni Station, on the Chuncheon line, lies Gapyeong, a small town by the Bukhangang River famous for pine nuts and the annual Jarasum International Jazz Festival.

Gapyeong is also a gateway to some stunning mountain walks, where streams plunge down between huge boulders on forested hillsides, offering the ideal chance to escape the Seoul summer, clear your head and cool off in a rock pool.

One weekend in mid-July, the mountains north of Gapyeong are shrouded in low cloud. As the bus winds its way up from Gapyeong Terminal in the sleepy county capital, glimpses of well-tended vegetable plots and monsoon flowers flash through the steamed-up windows, along with restaurant signs offering anything and everything containing pine nuts. After about an hour, the bus wheezes to a standstill at Yongsudong, the last stop on the route.

Ideal weekend hike

At Yongsudong, crowds of middle-aged Koreans in colorful hiking gear mill around waiting for their buses. Many belong to sanakhoe, or hiking clubs, and have obviously just enjoyed a good meal and drink after coming down out of the clouds, their faces red no longer from exercise but from imbibing plenty of pine nut makgeolli.

From Yongsudong, a small road leads east into Jomurak Valley by the side of a mountain stream. Guesthouses and restaurants line the road at first, their owners clearing tables laden with the remains of hiking club banquets. Chained dogs pose on their kennel roofs, making defensive noises. The road quickly turns to an unsealed path and enters a forest full of birdsong and occasional chipmunks, following the stream all the way. A mile or so further up is Bonghodong Waterfall, a picturesque spot where the water tumbles down a particularly large rock face. By now, nature is undisturbed and the water is crystal clear. If you fancy a longer hike, carry on another couple of miles to the summit of Mt. Seongnyongsan. If waterfall gazing is your priority, head back down the valley to Yongsudong.

Across the 38th parallel

Where Jomurak Valley meets the main road back at Yongsudong, turn right and head north. This two-mile walk is not particularly glamorous as you’ll need to hug the side of the road and look out for traffic. It’s scenic, though, with Gapyeongcheon Stream flowing below the road all the way. After a mile or so, signs will tell you that you’re crossing the 38th parallel, once the border between North and South Korea. When the Korean War armistice was signed in 1953, territorial gains and losses by each side meant that the border ended up further south in the western part of the peninsula, and further north here in the east.

A little beyond the 38th parallel, on the right, a sign indicates the presence of a sinang yujeokji, a site where communities of Koreans lived in dugout shelters during the Japanese colonial period to escape forced worship at Shinto shrines, compulsory adoption of Japanese names, religious persecution and conscription. Up here in the mountains, they made charcoal and cut sleepers for the new Seoul-Chuncheon railway and observed their own religions in freedom, remaining until after national liberation in 1945.

Half a mile more of walking takes you to Jeongmok Yongso, a blue pool fed by a small waterfall. “Yongso” means “dragon pond”; the spot is so named because of a legend that tells how a dragon, ascending to Heaven, was spotted by a pregnant woman and fell back to earth, creating the pool (many Korean legends and folktales feature dragons living below pools and rivers).

Cross the rainbow bridge that offers the best views of Jeongmok Yongso and your long march up the road will be rewarded with a path that meanders though beautiful woodland, following yet another stream, to Mujuchae Waterfall. In pre-modern times, this utterly charming spot is said to have been a favorite place for military officers to drink, dance around and eat wild vegetables, presumably due to the unavailability of fried chicken. Whether you arrive there sober or inebriated, you’ll be glad to find such a cool, quiet spot within easy reach of Seoul.

Back in and around Gapyeong

There’s plenty more hiking up various nearby peaks if you’re not ready to come down from the mountains yet. Otherwise, head back down to Yongsudong and catch the bus towards town, where more attractions await.

Ihwawon “butterfly story” is a complex of large greenhouses containing various trees and plants, saccharine piano music and, of course, butterflies. Don’t expect swarms of them, though: they keep a low profile and you might need to sit in one spot for a while to get a close encounter. If you have curious kids in tow, they might appreciate a romp around Ihwawon for a while. It’s located in the camping ground by the river on the way from Gapyeong Station into town.

Gapyeong Rail Park offers rail bike tours along a four-kilometer stretch of the old railway, from downtown Gapyeong to Gyeonggang Station on a course that takes you on a high viaduct over the river and then along its bank. After a quick rest at Gyeonggang Station, it’s another four kilometers back again.

Hyeonam Agricultural Artifact Museum, housed in a local middle school, is a collection of some 200 traditional agricultural implements, plus some recreations of rural houses. Entry is free, so if you’re interested in pre-modern farming in Korea jump on any bus heading towards Buk-myeon and get off at Gapyeong Buk Junghakgyo. Unlike most museums, this one is closed on Sundays and open Monday to Saturday.

Songnam Art Museum

A small contemporary art museum located north of Gapyeong accessible by bus (33-1, 33-38, 50-1 or 50-3; get off at Goam Ipgu). If you’re into modern art, drop in here to look around this collection, housed in a striking neo-traditional building topped by a wooden pavilion. The entrance fee is KRW 4,000 for adults and it’s closed every Monday.

In pre-modern times, Mujuchae Waterfall was a favorite place for military officers to drink, dance around and eat wild vegetables.

More Info.

STAY> From Seoul, most people visit Gapyeong as a day trip, but if you’d like to stay, the town has lots of pension houses. There are several nice pension houses in Yongsudong, in fact. For something a bit different, however, try the luxury camping ground Moa Glamping (www.moaglamping.com).

EAT> Yongsudong has several rustic eateries serving makgeolli, fried pancakes, noodles and other local favorites. Gapyeong is famous for its pine nuts, or jat., which are used to make makgeolli and other dishes.

GO> To reach Gapyeong, take the ITX express from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station (KRW 4,000, departs roughly every hour). The journey lasts just 40 minutes.

Alternatively, take the Gyeongchun Line, part of Seoul’s extended metro network, from Sangbong Station. This journey takes close to one hour and costs around KRW 2,150 using a transport card.

From Gapyeong Station, take Bus 33-4 to Yongsudong, its last stop. From Yongsudong, its a 3km hike to Jeongmok Yongso falls.

Written by Ben Jackson
Photographed by Robert Koehler

Korea’s steel city offers plenty of nature, too

When thinking of scenic places to visit in Korea, Pohang is not usually included on those lists. However, the steel city does have a lot to offer the visitor. While most of the vistas do look upon POSCO and the industrial area, the surrounding villages offer some unique views and glimpses into history.

Homigot Sunrise Square

A trip to Pohang would not be complete if you did’t start off at Homigot Sunrise Square. The iconic hands of harmony sculptures (yes, there are two!) facing each other are the focal point of the square. These sculptures draw numerous visitors to the park each year but it is the sunrise festival that draws thousands.

You have no doubt seen Korea depicted as a tiger. Homigot is basically the tiger’s tail and is also one of the easternmost points in the country. This means that it catches the first rays of light of the new year. Watching the sunrise is a popular tradition in Korea and Homigot is one of the top spots in the country.

If you are heading out there be sure to check out the square and all that it has to offer. The New Millennium Memorial Hall offers an unobstructed view of the area from the viewing platform. This is a great place to get a feel for the area as there is certainly lots to do here.

The square is jam-packed with informative and interesting sculptures and places. Check out the National Lighthouse museum to get a feel for some of the history, most notably the Homigot Lighthouse that sits in front.

If you are visiting the square for sunrise and are needing a coffee, then head to Café Esperanza as it opens unusually early for most cafés in the country. The café opens at 7 AM and the second- floor terrace is a great place to enjoy the view.

Homigot Coastal Road

Just down from the square you can walk along the coast on a raised platform over the ocean. As you get closer to the city of Pohang, the presence of POSCO will start to become more prominent.

However, the walk along the coast is peaceful and offers a relaxing walk in a unique setting. The remoteness of the boardwalk means that you might note a lot of crowds along the way, although it certainly is a popular spot.

What makes this area special is also the interesting rock formations. The eroding cliffs create some interesting shapes along the coast. Be sure to keep your eyes open for an elephant-shaped rock.

For those looking for a nice walk along the ocean and good view of POSCO in the distance, this might be worth the excursion.

Guryongpo

One of the hidden treasure in this area can be found in the village of Guryongpo. Located just down the road from Homigot, this area is known for king crab but also history. Just behind the main street teeming with crab shops is a restored area known as the Guryongpo Modern Culture and History Street and it is a hidden gem.

This street is lined with restored buildings from the Japanese colonial days and shows visitors a small glimpse into the impact the Japanese made during that time. The street was also the meeting for the Korean drama “Eyes of Dawn” and there is a spot where you can see the various memorabilia from the show.

However, if you walk down the street a ways, take the time to enter the museum. Entrance is free and there is some English interpretation. The museum shows what like was like for one Japanese family during the occupation. The house has been restored and educates visitors as they walk through the two-story home.

The street is lined with shops and cafés. Not to mention that you can also try the area’s specialty mulhoe there as well. One shop in particular is quite popular among visitors and sits on your right as you enter the street from the main gates (about midway down the street).

The name “Guryongpo” roughly translates to “nine dragons,” and a sculpture commemorating this stands overlooking the town just above the modern culture and history street. The numerous steps leading up to the park may put some people off, but the view over looking the port will be worth it.

Oeosa Temple

If you are looking to get a little more active, Oeosa Temple is a beautiful temple that sits on the edge of a reservoir and offers some great hiking opportunities. One of the more notable features of this temple is the beautiful suspension bridge that greets visitors next to the temple. It is a great starting point for a walk around the reservoir.

The temple itself is stunning and sits in the lush forest that surrounds the reservoir. If you are looking to get a workout, hike up the stairs to the upper part of the temple, which offers a great view of the mountains and reservoir. Do note that you may have to walk in from the village if the parking lot at Oeosa is full. For some, this is an added benefit, but it also adds an extra 800 meters to your hike that you may not be planning on.

Yeongildae Beach

Pohang may offer a lot with regards to fresh seafood and delicious sujebi in Jukdo Market and other areas around the city. One area that should not be overlooked is Yeongildae Beach. Also known as Bukbu Beach, it is one of the more popular beach areas in Pohang. It is a pleasant surprise for a city known more for their factories than beautiful beaches.

Yeongildae Beach feels a lot like Haeundae Beach from about 10 years ago. It is surrounded by seafood shops and restaurants. People pitch tents in the soft sand to spend the day relaxing. Vendors selling a variety of foods line up next to each other near the Yeongildae Observatory.

The Yeongildae Observatory is a popular spot to catch a great view of POSCO and of the beach as well. Recently constructed, this traditional structure adds a beautiful touch to the beach and acts almost like a focal point drawing people to the food tents along the beachside walkway.

POSCO Nightview

A trip to Pohang would not be complete without catching a glimpse of the POSCO steel mill at night. While you can most likely see the mill from many parts of the city, the view from the riverside exercise park is unbeatable. There is free parking and a walkway along the river that gives an unobstructed view of the factory and their evening lights. This is a great way to spend the evening if the beach is not your thing.

In the end, if you are heading down the coast, be sure to check out Pohang and see all that it has to offer. While at first glimpse it may seem like just a factory town, upon closer inspection you will be amazed at the wealth of history and natural attractions that this city has to offer. Plan on getting up early to see the sunrise and heading to bed after you see POSCO’s lights come on. There is more than enough to see and do in Pohang to fill up your day.

A trip to Pohang would not be complete if you did’t start off at Homigot Sunrise Square.

More Info

STAY> Pohang has a number of affordable places on Air BnB that a budget-minded traveler can choose from. Also there are a number of motels located around YeongIldae Beach. The Best Western (054-230-7000) offers a spectacular view of the beach.

If you are looking for something a little more relaxing, the Bada Pension (054-243-2277) near Wolpo Beach is a great place to relax and get a swim. Able to accommodate large groups, the rooms offer balconies with great views and jacuzzi tubs.

EAT> Pohang is famous for fresh seafood. Head to Jukdo Market (054-247-3776) and try some fresh crab or mulhoe. If you are looking for fresh-from-the-ocean delights, try Chang-u Mulhoe Daege (054-284-4312) in Guryongpo. Located at the entrance of the Modern History area, the seafood comes in directly from the port out front.

GO> It takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes to get from Seoul Station to the Pohang KTX station. From there you can catch a cab to pretty much anywhere in the city.

Buses leave regularly from Seoul to the Pohang Express Bus Terminal. It takes about five hours to get to Pohang, depending on road and traffic conditions. Again, taxis and local buses are readily available.

Written and photographed by Jason Teale

Enjoy a summer adventure in beautiful Yeosu

The origin of the word Yeosu means good or beautiful water – which is a perfect way to describe this city. Many Koreans agree that this name refers not only to the city’s pretty coast, but also to the warm current, which allows for mild weather, even in the wintertime. Throughout the year, residents and visitors can enjoy comfortable weather and beautiful views.

Situated on the southern coast of Jeollanam-do, Yeosu is the perfect city to visit for a fun weekend getaway. With plenty of beaches and hiking spots located within the city limits, Yeosu is especially worthwhile to visit during the summer months. It has a mix of gorgeous countryside and fun city living. Since serving as the host for the 2012 Expo, this area has grown in popularity over the years. As a coastal city, it has a lot to offer, and it’s no wonder so many people choose to live and vacation here.

Soak up the sun at the beach

Only a short distance from the main city, there are a number of great beaches to visit in Yeosu. Your choice of beach depends on what kind of experience you’re looking for.

If you want to go for a nice stroll and would like to have many nearby lunch options, Ungcheon Beach is a good choice. If you prefer a relaxing and quiet area, Mosageum Beach is the perfect spot. This is a great place to sit back and have a picnic lunch. If you’re in search of a busier and more popular beach area, Manseongni Beach is known for its unique black sand and is frequented by many locals.

No matter which beach spot you choose, you will enjoy the views and relaxation. It’s recommended that you plan to see a beach sunrise while visiting Yeosu.

Explore the Expo area

In 2012, Yeosu hosted an International Expo. It lasted for three months and was a big event for South Korea. More than 105 countries took part in this experience. The area where the event was held now stands as an attraction for both locals and visitors alike. There is a park area, several restaurants and cafés, and a walkway that leads around the waterfront.

On a busy day, you may spot Yeony and Suny, the official mascots of Yeosu. You can meet and greet and get your photos taken with these cute creatures.

If you want a panoramic view of this area, stop by the Sky Tower, which is located by the Expo. What looks like a normal tower during the daytime is lit up like a rainbow during the night hours. At the top floor of this tower, you can enjoy a coffee or a snack while you get a bird’s-eye view of the Expo area through the café’s windows.

Take part in family fun adventures

Yeosu is a great place to take your family. If you’re searching for a kid-friendly activity, be sure to stop by Yeosu Aqua Planet, an aquarium located by the Expo. Here you can get up close and personal with some exotic sea life and adorable creatures. You will find jellyfish, penguins, sea lions, beluga whales, piranhas and much more. This aquarium even has underwater performances – featuring mermaids!

The Ocean Resort Waterpark is another place that families frequent during the summer months. With wave pools, slides, and spa services, there’s something for visitors of all ages. You can stay at the on-site hotel to make a whole weekend of it. For many families, a trip to this waterpark can be a summer vacation in itself.

Enjoy the views

If you want to see the vast beauty that Yeosu has to offer, it’s recommended that you check out the most popular sites in a number of ways. If you’re planning an afternoon adventure, why not head to the gorgeous island of Odongdo. There’s a walkway leading to Odongdo for easy access. For those who don’t wish to walk, a tram can be taken. In this area, you can enjoy the water fountain, beautiful walkways, and the Dragon Cave. While on the island, you can also explore the bamboo forest and lighthouse.

If you want to get a stellar view of Yeosu from up above, be sure to ride the Yeosu cable cars. The glass-floored cars will offer a view like none other! As you ride, you’ll be making your way to the island of Dolsan. This is a large island, full of adventures to be had. If visiting in the evening, you’ll see the Dolsandaegyo Bridge all lit up in a colorful display. It really looks amazing alongside the city lights. With a climb up to Dolsan Park, you can get a stunning view, while also getting some exercise. The view is especially beautiful on a clear night.

Take in the history

Yeosu is more than just its scenic coastal views and endless islands. This city is also full of unique history.

Yeosu played a big part in the Imjin War. In 1592, the Japanese invaded Korea along the southern shores. The Turtle Ship, or Geobukseon, was an armored ship with a turtle-shell-like top, which helped to protect the crewmembers. Admiral Yi Sun Shin is credited for creating this ship as well as leading Korea towards victory.

In the Jungang-dong area of Yeosu, you can see a replica of the Turtle Ship. Jinnamgwan Hall, which served as the headquarters for Admiral Yi Sun-shin and his crew, can also be explored. If you’re looking to learn more about Yeosu’s history and culture, the small on-site museum can be visited. Jinnamgwan Hall is located about a five-minute bus ride from the Yeosu Expo area, and is situated near a shopping district.

Sure, Yeosu may not be a metropolis hub like Seoul, but this small coastal city has a lot to offer. If you’re planning a weekend getaway for the upcoming summer months, Yeosu is the perfect place to visit and explore.

Yeosu is more than just its scenic coastal views and endless islands. This city is also full of unique history.

More info

STAY> There are a lot of hotel options throughout Yeosu. If you want to stay close to the Expo area, the MVL hotel is a popular hotel choice. The Ocean Resort is another top-rated hotel – especially for those who plan to visit the water park.

EAT> There’s no shortage of seafood in Yeosu. Why not enjoy some grilled eel or sashimi while you’re visiting. This city and the surrounding areas also have a unique style of kimchi, known as Dolsan Gat Kimchi. These mustard leaves are known for being less spicy and having a unique smell. The warm climate and alkaline oil in Dolsan contribute to this. Give it a try!

GO> The fastest and easiest way to get from Seoul to Yeosu is by train.

To get to Yeosu, ride the Seoul subway to Yongsan Station. Take the KTX to Yeosu Expo Station. Total trip time to Yeosu Expo Station is just under 3 hours.

City buses and taxies make it easy to explore the various parts of Yeosu. You can also take ferries to the multiple islands.

Written by Natasha Gabrielle
Photographed by Robert Koehler

Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (Jan. 10–Feb. 1) 화천산천어축제

Korea’s biggest winter festival is more fun than a barrel of river trout

 A land of towering peaks, rushing rivers and one of Korea‘s largest lakes, Hwacheon is home to the sancheoneo, a mountain trout indigenous to the cold, clear waters of this region. The fish also makes for some seriously good eating, making the rivers here one of the most popular ice-fishing destinations in the country. During the festival, visitors try their luck at specially prepared ice fishing spots on the Hwacheoncheon Stream. You don‘t have to be especially lucky to catch one – every day of the festival, some two tons of trout are put in the stream. The really stout-of-heart try catching the fish with their bare hands. Rest assured, it‘s a bracing experience. Best of all, you can, and should, eat what you catch, and there are barbecue pits set up all around the festival venue where you can broil up your fish – they are lovely with a pinch of salt.

EAT> Most people come for the sancheoneo, but if you’d like something else, Hwacheon Eojuktang (T. 033-442-5544), located in front of Hwacheon Hydroelectric Power Station, does a mean eojuktang (spicy fish stew) on the cheap.
STAY> About 20 or so motels and Korean-style inns (yeogwan, 여관) in the town
DO> Hwacheon has a city tour bus that takes you to the town’s scenic and cultural sites. Buses depart from Chuncheon Station (in the nearby city of Chuncheon) at 10 AM, and there are two courses available.
SEE> Really off the beaten track is Peace Dam, a rather curious piece of Cold War history that has been turned into a peace park.
FYI> www.narafestival.com

GO> Buses to Hwacheon-gun depart from Dong Seoul Terminal (travel time: 3 hours).

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Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park 문경새재도립공원

History combines with beautiful views in the Bird Pass

The Mungyeong Saejae (“Bird Pass”) has long been one of the most strategic roads through the rugged Sobaeksan Mountains, which separate Korea’s southeastern region from Seoul and its surroundings. During the Joseon Dynasty, a series of three fortress walls were built in the pass to defend the capital from invasion from the south and to keep the road clear of mountain bandits and the like. Restored in 1976, the gates now cut an impressive figure against the steep mountain peaks that flank them on both sides.

In addition to the gates, you’ll also find ruins of a Joseon Dynasty inn, plenty of hiking opportunities in the surrounding hills, one major Buddhist temple and, oddly enough, a recreated Goryeo Dynasty city used by KBS as a film set.

EAT> There are plenty of good eateries at the entrance of the park. The Mungyeong Sikdang (T. 054-571-3044) does a variety of dishes made with red pepper paste made with omija, a flavorful berry for which Mungyeong is famous. Try the omija gochujang bibimbap, a bowl of rice and seasoned vegetables mixed with omija-infused red pepper paste.
STAY> Mungyeong Tourist Hotel (T. 054-571-8001) is a good place to stay and located right in the park itself.
SEE> Learn about the history of this strategic pass at the Saejae Museum
DO> It takes about two hours to walk from the first gate to the third.
FYI> Park admission fee: KRW 2,000

GO> Take a bus to Mungyeong from Seoul’s Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 30 minutes). From Mungyeong, take Bus 100 to the park (travel time: 15 minutes).

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Namiseom 남이섬

Romantic winter scenery in the Korean Wave pilgrimage site

One of this writer‘s favorite winter destinations, Namiseom is an island in the Bukhangang River about 30 minutes from downtown Chuncheon. In 1965, Minn Byeong-do, former governor of the Bank of Korea, purchased the island and transformed it into one of Korea’s most splendid arboretums. The island is criss-crossed with wooded walking paths, the most famous being the Metasequoia path featured in the hit 2002 drama “Winter Sonata,” one of the shows that kicked off the so-called “Korean Wave.” It‘s as popular a destination in winter as it is in summer thanks to both the drama and its beautiful snowy scenery.

In addition to the trees and snow, the island is home to exhibition spaces, performance halls, restaurants, cafés and a very good hotel.

EAT> Namiseom has got a good variety of eateries, including a Chinese restaurant, a pizzeria, a Korean-style lunchbox café and a joint selling Chuncheon’s best known contribution to Korean cuisine, spicy grilled chicken, or dak galbi.
STAY> The Naminara Hotel (T. 031-580-8000) is a great place to stay. The hotel’s rooms are decorated with the works of noted artists, turning a night here into a cultural experience.
DO> The Namiseom Zip Wire takes you nearly a kilometer across the river to Namiseom, beginning at a height of 80 meters.
SEE> Everybody goes to the Metasequoia path, a tunnel created by the giant Metasequoia trees that line the walkway.
FYI> www.namisum.com

GO> First, take the train from Cheongnyangni Station in Seoul to Gapyeong (travel time: about 1 hour). From Gapyeong Station, take a taxi to Namiseom’s parking lot (travel time: 10 minutes). From there, you can catch a ferry to the island.

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Ganjeolgot Cape 간절곶

Take in the earliest sunrise the Korean way

The earliest sunrises in Korea can be enjoyed from the Ganjeolgot Cape in the southeastern city of Ulsan. At the cape you‘ll find a lighthouse, some sculptures and a very large post box (the world‘s second largest!), where many visitors put postcards on which they‘ve written their wishes. Most folk come to either watch or photograph the sunrise, although ideally, the two activities are not mutually exclusive.

EAT> You’ll find a restaurant and café at the cape, but if you’d like to try Ulsan’s most famous specialty, check out the whale meat restaurants near the Ulsan Whale Museum.
STAY> Ulsan has a wide range of accommodations, including high-end options like the Hyundai and Lotte hotels.
SEE> The sunrise, naturally.
DO> If you’ve got a car, the coastal ring road is one of the most beautiful drives in the country.
FYI> guide.ulsan.go.kr
GO> The KTX to Ulsan departs from Seoul Station. Take Bus 5001 from Ulsan Station to City Hall, and from there, transfer to Bus 715 and get off at Ganjeolgot.

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Boseong Green Tea Plantation Light Festival (Thru Feb. 1) 보성차밭 빛축제

Bright lights, big tea field

The dead of winter might seem an odd time to visit a green tea plantation, but the rolling hills of Boseong’s tea country play host to one of Korea’s most visually appealing winter festivals, the Boseong Green Tea Plantation Light Festival. The terraced fields of Botjae Dawon plantation are lit up in thousands of multicolored lights as a message of hope for the New Year. The decorations include a giant, 120-meter-high “tree” made of LED lights, one of the world’s largest. Most, however, come just to walk amidst the terraced tea fields illuminated against the dark winter sky.

EAT> Green tea ice cream, green tea noodles and delicious green tea pork; you’ll also be drinking lots and lots of green tea.
STAY> The Boseong Tourist Hotel (T. 061-853-1144) is the most convenient place to stay, but if you’re looking for something a bit more historic, the nearby hamlet of Beolgyo is home to the Boseong Yeogwan (T. 061-858-7528), an old colonial era Japanese inn with rooms to rent.
SEE> The best views are from the top of Botjae Dawon’s main hill.
DO> While you’re in Boseong, take a green tea and sea water bath at Haesu Nokchatang on Yulpo Beach.
FYI> english.boseong.go.kr
GO> Buses to Boseong depart from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (travel time: 4 hours). From Boseong, take a bus for the Green Tea Plantations.

Healing in Natural Splendor

Jeju Olle Walking Festival (Nov. 6–8) 제주올레걷기축제

Inspired by Spain’s legendary Camino de Santiago, journalist Suh Myung-suk founded Jejudo’s Olle Trail in 2007 as a healing space where world-weary people could recharge and reconnect with nature. Now totaling 21 routes that circle the entire island, the trail has proven a phenomenal success, drawing over a million hikers every year.

The Jeju Olle Walking Festival celebrates this special part of Jejudo Island’s cultural landscape by highlighting three of the routes. This year’s festival takes place along routes 17, 18 and 19 along the northern side of the island. Villages along the festival route will welcome participants with a wide range of cultural performances and local dishes found only on Jejudo.

EAT> Jejudo is known for its very unique cuisine, which is a reflection of its island culture. Specialties include jeonbokjuk (abalone porridge), black pork and a wide range of seafood. Stalls will be set up along the walking trails, so don’t worry about going hungry.

STAY> Because Jejudo is one of Korea’s top tourist destinations, the island is covered with hotels, guest houses and other forms of accommodation. You’ll no doubt find places to stay along the trails, but if you’re looking to go upscale, try the Ramada Plaza Jeju Hotel (T. 064-729-8224) in Jeju City.

DO> As you walk the path, be mindful of where you are. This isn’t just a hike—it’s a healing experience.

SEE> Along route 19 you’ll find the Neobeunsungi 4.3 Memorial Hall, a memorial to one of Korea’s most tragic events.

FYI> Participation fee: KRW 20,000, www.ollewalking.co.kr

GO> Discount airlines Jeju Air and Jin Air both fly to Jejudo Island several times a day.

Discover Your Inner Caveman

Yeoncheon Jeongok-ri Paleolithic Festival (Oct. 31–Nov. 2) 연천구석기축제

In 1977, a US Army staff sergeant enjoying some leisure time happened upon some rocks where he found an ancient hand axe, a revolutionary find as it was the first proof that Paleolithic culture did in fact exist in East Asia.

The Jeongok-ri Prehistoric Site, as the spot is called today, yielded over 3,000 artifacts in the excavations that followed. Some of those remains are on display at the beautifully designed Jeongok Prehistory Museum. During the Yeoncheon Jeongok-ri Paleolithic Festival, you can take part in family-oriented programs like hands-on archeology classes and watch performances by actors doing their best to emulate the dress, customs and mannerism of Paleolithic humans.

EAT> Woolly mammoth burgers—just kidding. Plenty of food stalls will be set up during the festival, and local farmers will be on site to sell local produce. There will also be a prehistoric barbecue where you can cook up some pork caveman-style.

STAY> This is a day trip from Seoul.

DO> Let the kiddies go nuts with all the hands-on programs for children.

SEE> While much of the festival is pretty hokey, the Jeongok Prehistory Museum, designed by French architectural house X-TU, certainly is not: a must-see for any self-respecting architecture fan.

GO> Take the Gyeongwon Line to Hantanggang Subway Station, and then take a local bus to Jeongok Prehistory Museum.

Mountain Majesty: Jirisan National Park 지리산 국립공원

An enormous massif that covers large swaths of the provinces of Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeollabuk-do and Jeollanam-do, Mt. Jirisan is home to some of Korea’s tallest peaks, including Cheonwangbong (1,915 m), the highest point on mainland Korea. It’s a monumental place of towering mountains, deep valleys and pristine rivers—to properly explore it would take months, if not years. Its slopes are home to several beautiful and historic Buddhist monasteries, which are treasure troves of Korean art.

EAT> There are some good eateries in front of Hwaeomsa Temple in Gurye, including some fantastic jeongsik at Sanchae Sikdang (T. 061-782-3223).

STAY> If you’re hiking Mt. Jirisan’s main ridge, you should stay in a shelter—there are eight of them on the ridge. The Nogodan, Byeoksoryong, Seseok and Jangteomok shelters, which are located roughly equidistant from one another along the ridge, are all quite large, with shops selling snacks (like instant noodles) and basic supplies. The others are equally simple.

DO> Take in the autumn colors in the Piagol Valley, or “Valley of Blood,” whose name refers to the blood-red color of its maples in autumn.

SEE> The Buddhist monastery of Hwaeomsa is essentially a rustic museum of Korean Buddhist art and architecture.

GO> From Seoul, buses to Gurye depart from Seoul’s Nambu Bus Terminal (travel time: 3 hours)

The Colors of Autumn: Jangseong Baegyang Maple Festival (Oct. 31–Nov. 2) 장성단풍축제

The area around Baegyangsa Temple, which is part of Naejangsan National Park, is famous for its spectacular autumn foliage, some of the most beautiful in Korea. Every year, the temple’s maples turn the brightest crimson, a color made all the more dramatic by the deep blue skies above. The Jangseong Baegyang Maple Festival celebrates this natural beauty with cultural performances, craft programs and food, but the real highlight here is the trees themselves.

EAT> You’ll find plenty of great Jeolla-do Province food in the restaurants in front of the temple.

STAY> There are several small inns throughout the nearby town of Jangseong.

DO> If you’re up for it, hike up to the hermitage of Yaksaam for great views of the valley.

SEE> The reflection of Mt. Baegamsan’s Hakbawi (“Crane Rock”), Ssanggyeru Pavilion and the autumn foliage in the pond in front of the temple.

GO> Trains to Baegyangsa Station depart from Yongsan Station (travel time: 3 hours, 30 minutes). You could also take a KTX to Jangseong Station (travel time: 2 hours, 30 minutes). During peak foliage season, you may have to walk an hour from Baegyangsa Station due to heavy traffic.

A Piece of Old Korea: Jeonju Hanok Village 전주한옥마을

In order to properly appreciate Jeonju Hanok Village, be prepared to get lost. And leave your watch at home.

 A maze of picturesque alleyways lined by handsome old Korean homes, Jeonju Hanok Village is a piece of an older, simpler and infinitely slower Korea. Every corner, every back street yields a new discovery. Hidden away amidst the tile roofs and greenery are charming guest houses, quiet teahouses, historic Confucian shrines, artisan workshops and stately old trees that have stood their ground for centuries. If there’s something in particular you’d like to see, by all means, bring a map. Otherwise, experience the town as it was meant to be seen—very, very slowly.

EAT> Tons of great places to eat in Jeonju, including many places in Jeonju Hanok Village itself. It’s best known dish is the Jeonju bibimbap—rice mixed with fresh vegetables and a tangy pepper sauce and served with a spread of side dishes. Jeonju’s best known bibimbap house is Gogung(T. 063-251-3211), a taxi ride from Jeonju Hanok Village. Closer to the hanok village is Gajok Hoegwan (T. 063-284-0982), which is also highly recommended. This writer recommends Seongmidang (T. 063-273-0029), a smaller place hidden in an alley near Gajok Hoegwan. It’s friendly, held in high esteem by locals and, above all, does great food. A Jeonju bibimbap will run you KRW 10,000, or KRW 12,000 for one topped with raw beef (yukhoe bibimbap).

STAY> Jeonju Hanok Village is about hanok, and there’s no better way to experience the charm of a Korean traditional abode than spending a night in one. There are many good hanok guesthouses in the village. One of the better ones is the Hakindang (T. 063-284-9929), a palatial estate built in 1905 by high-ranking royal official Baek Nak-jung. When we say palatial, we mean palatial—the home’s architecture incorporates aspects of royal palace design.

SEE> Overlooking Jeonju Hanok Village to the east is a small hill topped by a grand Korean pavilion. The hill provides good views of the entire hanok village.

DO> Experience the paper making process at Jeonju Traditional Korean Paper Center (T. 063-232-6591).

GO> KTX express train service connects Jeonju with Seoul’s Yongsan Station (travel time: about 2 hours, 10 min). You can also take express buses to Jeonju from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 45 min).