The Gwangnaru neighborhood offers terrestrial and extraterrestrial treasures, historic battle sites and very early sunrises

Relatively unknown to tourists, the Gwangnaru neighborhood and the mountains that make up the eastern boundary of Seoul reward the intrepid traveler with a rich history, scenic splendor, stylish hotels and the view up to the heavens you never imagined seeing in Seoul. On New Year’s Day, its peaks offer the earliest sunrises in the city, making it a worthy destination for wellwishers, hikers and the sentimental. But there is another scenery that’s not to be missed in Gwangnaru: the Seoul Metropolitan Observatory. The site is one of the few places within the city limits where budding Carl Sagans and curious grownups alike can turn their eyes – ably assisted by high-powered telescopes – to the stars.

Where the boats to Gwangju go

It’s hard to believe now, but not so long ago – little more than half a century ago, in fact – Seoul was a port city, and the Hangang River was dotted with numerous piers and ferry points, or naru. Gwangnaru, located on what was a sandy bend in the river, was so named because it was from here that ferries to nearby Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do, would depart. It was also the primary unloading spot for boats bringing timber and grain from the province of Gangwon-do; accordingly, its markets thrived in the days of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Up until the 1960s, the south side of the bend was lined by a wide, sandy beach that was a popular leisure spot for Seoulites.

The development of road and rail traffic made the riverine boat trade obsolete, and dam and embankment construction along the Hangang River in the 1960s deepened and widened the waterway, submerging the beach. Today, the neighborhood north of the river is mostly quiet and residential, although not without its charms. A short walk from Exit 1 of Gwangnaru Station (Line 5) brings you to Gwangjang Middle School, where you’ll find an alleyway lined by wall murals depicting the story of ancient Goguryeo Kingdom (37 BCE-668 CE), the history of which is intimately tied with nearby Mt. Achasan. Several apartment complexes have likewise been adorned.

Hidden in the alleyways beneath the apartments are plenty of cozy independent cafés. A local favorite is the charming Café Naru, near Gwangjang Middle School, where you can enjoy a well-crafted espresso-based beverage in quaint surroundings for a reasonable price. The café is attached to a home that also serves as a bed and breakfast.

On the Goguryeo Trail

Walk past Gwangjang Middle School and Gwangjang Elementary School and you’ll come to a three-way intersection. Turn right and keep walking – up! – until you get to the Achasan Ecological Park and, a little above that, Mt. Achasan itself.

At 287 m, Mt. Achasan isn’t Seoul’s highest peak, or even its most dramatic, but what it does provide is stunning views both to the west, over the city of Seoul, and to the east, over the Hangang River as its twists and turns through the mountains of Gyeonggi-do. This also makes it a rare peak where you can enjoy both dramatic sunrises and sunsets. Due to its elevated position on the eastern limit of Seoul, the peak gets the earliest sunrises in the city, making it a popular destination on the morning of Jan. 1, when the local authorities host a festival on the mountain to celebrate the new year. The favorite place to see the sunrise is not the peak itself, but so-called “Sunrise Plaza,” a scenic overlook that’s about a 30-minute hike from the park entrance. Mt. Yongmasan, which is attached to Mt. Achasan by a ridge, is a great place to see Seoul at night.

Occupying such notable heights overlooking the Hangang River, Mt. Achasan has been a strategic prize since the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BCE-668 CE), when the rival kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla waged bloody battles for control of the peak and, by extension, that Hangang River valley. The northern-based Goguryeo Kingdom, which seized the mountain from Baekje in a 475 battle built a series of stone bastions on specific overlooks along the ridgeline. Five of these bastions survive today, including one that has been restored and opened to the public, complete with wooden walking paths. In fact, the mountain’s Goguryeo-related historical sites are now included in the Goguryeo History Trail, a 7.8 km walking course that links Mt. Achasan with the Mongchontoseong Fortress area south of the river via the Gwangjin Bridge.

Seoul style

Follow the Goguryeo History Trail from the top of Mt. Achasan down past the small Buddhist hermitage of Daesongam, Achasan Fortress (another historic fortification) and Achasan Ecological Park and you’ll come to Walkerhill Road, a tree-lined scenic roadway. The road is especially beautiful in the spring, when the cherry blossoms that flank the street come alive, turning the street into a giant pink tunnel. It is considered an especially good spot for “healing,” or reconnecting with nature in order to recover from the spiritual bumps and bruises of modern city life.

Keep following the road until you reach the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill, one of Seoul’s most historic luxury hotels. Founded in 1963 as a resort for American officers, the hotel is surrounded by beautiful woods and gardens and yields beautiful views of the Hangang River below. Of architectural note is its Pizza Hall, formerly the Hilltop Bar, a concrete pavilion shaped like a “W” (for Walker) completed in 1963 and designed by the late Kim Swoo-geun, one of Korea’s greatest modern architects. Not only does it offer wonderful views of the river but it is also a great place to enjoy a slice amid history.

Just next door to the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill is the W Seoul Walkerhill, the global design icon’s first property in Asia. As you’d expect at the W, design is the name of the game here – the WET pool is one of Korea’s most breathtaking, and its famous WooBar, with its seemingly ripped-from-the-set-of-“2001: A Space Odyssey” décor and inspiring views of the river and skyline, is one of the trendiest spots to have a drink in the city.

Stargazing

At night, head back to Gwangnaru Station and the nearby Seoul Gwangjin Youth Center to check out the Seoul Metropolitan Observatory, a must-visit for future astronomers, SF lovers and couples seeking something different. In fact, the complex includes both a 139-seat planetarium complete with a six-channel Digital Sky 2 projector, a domed observatory with a 600 m refractor telescope and an outdoor observatory with six smaller telescopes of varying length. To get the full experience, make a reservation at the website (www.astroseoul.or.kr, Korean only) for their constellation observing program. First, you will lay comfortably in the planetarium gazing at the dome screen and learn the legends and science behind the constellations you see in the winter sky. For the next hour you can make use of the equipment in the indoor and outdoor observatories under the guidance of a specialist. If the weather allows, you might even see nebulas many hundred light years away.

TIPs: Besides the Seoul Metropolitan Observatory, there are three other locations in the city with telescope programs: Yongsan-gu’s Donga Science Observatory, Nowon-gu’s Seoul Public Observatory and the observatory of  Seoul Science Park in Gwanak-gu.

More info

For more information visit http://www.visitseoul.net, and to learn about

Seoul’s special guesthouses, visit http://stay.visitseoul.net

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

The alleyways along the old Yeonnam-dong railway-turned-park are full of culinary and cultural treasures

The Yeonnam-dong district is yet more proof that Seoul is always changing – and in a positive direction, at that.

If you had visited Yeonnam-dong just a few years ago, you would have found an old railway flanked by quiet-but-aged residential alleyways with little that would classify them as a travel destination. Now, however, the neighborhood offers a entrancing mix of edgy craft shops, green park spaces and uniquely designed cafés and eateries all tied together by an atmosphere of youth and creativity. You could spend days here exploring its back streets, where every corner yields a new – and often wonderful – discovery.

Along the tracks: From indie culture to community art

A short walk from Exit 6 of Hongik University Station (Gyeongui-Jungang Line) brings you to Ttaengttaeng Street, named for the sound of the bell (“ttaeng ttaeng”) that would ring at the railroad crossing when a train was approaching. The main landmark here – aside from the empty grass field where the railroad tracks used to sit – is the venerable Sanwoollim Theater, which opened in 1985 as the home of the aptly named Sanwoollim Theater Company, a drama troupe with a history that dates back to 1969. In the 1990s, as the theater began hosting more experimental works, more small theaters opened nearby, transforming the Hongik University area – popularly known as “Hongdae” – into the birthplace of Korea’s indie culture.

From Sanwoollim Theater, follow Dabok Street back to Hongik University Station. Many small shops, cafés and bakeries have opened up on this road recently, including an old toy museum that’s popular with the dating crowd. Once you get to the station, follow the main road past Exit 3 until you reach the start of a long, green park.

An urban forest where the train once ran

The Gyeongui Line Forest Park is a narrow, 1.3 km stretch of green space cutting through the heart of Yeonnam-dong. Flanked by homes and apartments on both sides, the green corridor feels like a rift valley dividing the city in two. When the weather is good, you’ll find plenty of young couples and families strolling along the walking paths, picnicking on the lawn in the shade of a tree or, more often than not, enjoying a meal or beverage at one of the many restaurants and cafés that have opened along the increasingly popular park.

The urban forest follows the path of the old railway that once linked Seoul with the city of Sinuiju. In the early 2000s, work began on turning the line, formerly a single-line diesel rail, into a double-line electric rail; urban sections of the line that had been aboveground were relocated underground.

The Yeonnam-dong section of the old line has reflecting ponds, works of symbolic art and, most beautifully, a 1 km line of ginkgo trees that turn golden in autumn. It’s a great place to have a picnic, but couples should mind their manners – here and there you’ll find signs asking that visitors refrain from excessive expressions of affection.

In the alleyways to the left of the tracks are a good number of small-scale craft shops specializing in knitwear, leather goods, flower arrangements, accessories, ceramics and more. Be sure to check for schedules for the one-day classes offered by many of these shops.

Cultures mix in charming alleyways

If you have the luck to visit at the right time, drop by the Yeonnam-dong Village Market – The Warmer South (따뜻한 남쪽) – which usually takes place the last Sunday of every month. The event is one of the city’s most vibrant flea markets with plenty of handmade crafts, artisanal foods and used goods – including lots of vintage clothing! In addition to being a good spot to pick up truly unique crafts, it’s also a great place to meet new people and get a richer understanding of the neighborhood and its culture.

From The Warmer South, navigate the alleyways in a generally southeasterly direction until you reach the Dongjin Market. Don’t worry if you get lost – in this neighborhood, getting lost is part of the fun. In the side streets between the Dongjin Market and the old railway tracks, many of the aging homes have been turned into quaint ateliers, boutiques, bookshops, guest houses, gourmet coffee shops and restaurants that, whenever possible, salvage as much of the neighborhood’s past as possible. Coffee aficionados in particular will love this part of the area. You’ll find plenty of unique coffeehouses here, including one that specializes in hard-to-find Turkish coffee and another that serves – no joke – one-liter cups of java for people who really need their caffeine fix.

Much of the neighborhood’s charm lies in the tension between the old and new – or, more specifically, the parochial and global. The brick and tile storefronts and vintage fonts of the winding alleyways may seem like something out of previous decade, but the throngs of young people in the streets certainly aren’t. Talented and globalized young chefs have opened humble laneway shops where the rents are low but the flavors are definitely not low-rent – don’t be surprised by the lines of young couples waiting to get into some of the best restaurants in town. One especially popular place is a Thai restaurant in the basement of the Dongjin Market arcade; on a weekend, expect to wait an hour to get in, but the chef – a native of northern Thailand, which is renowned for its spicy flavors – will make sure your wait it worth it. Watch for a hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese joint serving excellent and affordable banh mi sandwiches, as well as a Mexican joint highly recommended by Mexican expats.

You’ll find plenty of good Chinese restaurants, too, thanks to the large numbers of expatriate Chinese who live in this area. Unlike Chinese restaurants elsewhere in Korea, which largely target Korean diners, the Chinese restaurants here cater to a mostly Chinese crowd, so the food is appropriately authentic. There are plenty of options near the Donggyo-ro Intersection, easily recognized by their bright, exotic exteriors, with the popular ones because of the long lines at lunch and dinner time. One Chinese dish to try in the neighborhood is seasoned and sliced pork trotters, or ohyang jokbal.

More info

Yeonnam-dong’s guest houses

Hidden in the alleyways between the Gyeongui Line Forest Path and Dongjin Market are several pleasant guest houses, and their number is growing. Many if these places are converted homes and low-rise apartments, giving them a warm, comfortable vibe. The alleyways where they are congregated are blissfully quiet, too. Not only are they very relaxing places to stay but they are right on the AREX line to Incheon International Airport and just a 10-minute-walk from Hongdae and its popular clubs and bars.

Some of the guesthouses have their own kitchens and cafés where you can have breakfast, but if you’re looking for something more substantial, Yeonnam-dong has plenty of eateries that serve breakfast and/or brunch. In addition to the American-style place mentioned earlier, you’ll find another place specializing in pancakes. Near Dongjin Market, a pair of architects have opened up an Italian coffee house with a good brunch menu. And this is just the tip of the iceberg.

For more information, visit visitseoul.net or to learn more about Seoul’s guesthouses, see stay.visitseoul.net

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

The Common Ground market brings youth and style to an increasingly vibrant neighborhood

Once forgotten and neglected, the Ttukseom-Seongsu-Konkuk University axis is now one of Seoul’s hottest neighborhoods. Young, creative entrepreneurs and social enterprises have brought an edgy, dynamic vibe, turning empty, disused spaces into spaces of culture and commerce. Pop-up shopping complex Common Ground may be the most spectacular example of the transformation, but it’s hardly the only engine of change.

Creative connections

Seoul’s answer to London’s Boxpark, Common Ground was founded earlier this year by Korean conglomerate Kolon in a bid to bring economic life to this gritty district of eastern Seoul. The concept is simple: some 200 shipping containers have been stacked, arranged and renovated for use as “pop-up” shops – short-term retail spaces whose low rents allow young and up-and-coming entrepreneurs a chance to market their wares. Pop-up shops have become all the rage overseas, especially in the fashion industry, where even major global fashion brands have gotten in on the act.

One of the largest container markets in the world, Common Ground seeks to build “creative connections” by fostering communication among people, brands and the local community. What you won’t find here are the ubiquitous major franchise clothing, cosmetics and coffee shops. Instead, the mall is full of small but unique brands with significant representation by new designers and subculture players. Needless to say, it’s a very youthful place.

Common Ground also serves as something of a neighborhood playground. On the weekend, it hosts the “CG Market” in its central plaza, a retail space that also features a variety of fun and interesting events with themes that change weekly. For instance, to celebrate International Go Skateboarding Day (June 21), the mall held its own contest, accompanied by shops selling boards, clothing and all your other skateboarding accessories. To improve the local living environment, Common Ground also hosts community events and programs, including “guerilla gardening” initiatives to turn disused land into urban gardens. Along with cultural content brand Toy Republic, it also hosts “sub-culture” exhibits and culture classes for the toiling masses.

Food trucks and neighborhood eats

One of Common Ground’s biggest draws is its collection of food trucks. Yes, like pop-up stores, the food truck phenomenon has also reached Korean shores. Unfortunately, local regulations forbid food trucks from actually moving around, which some say defeats the purpose of a food truck in the first place, but even from a stationary position, these joints offer (usually) simple yet (often) artfully prepared eats in an urban outdoor atmosphere – or something approximating an urban outdoor atmosphere.

There are several food trucks to choose from at Common Ground, including one serving classic American eats and another doing some rather bizarrely presented fruit beverages. One truck of particular note, however, is Kimchi Bus. Founded by three chefs in 2011 with the noble goal of spreading the joys of Korean cuisine abroad, Kimchi Bus has taken their show to 186 cities in 32 countries. They’re in Seoul now, however, and dishing up delightful Korean-inspired Mexican dishes prepared from Korean ingredients. The Donam-dong Tacos, made with house-marinated pork galbi with seasoned Korean wild greens instead of cilantro, are especially popular, but really, everything here is good.

In addition to the food trucks, Common Ground also hosts branches of popular local eateries from some of Seoul’s hottest neighborhoods including a brew pub from Gyeongnidan famous for its American-style pizza and craft beer and a dessert café from Garosu-gil where the specialty is picturesque rainbow cakes.

Shoe republic

A short walk from Common Ground will bring you to Seongsu Station, the heart of the up-and-coming Seongsu-dong district. This old, unpolished neighborhood has, in recent years, been getting a hipster makeover as young creative types move in and open studios, workshops and cafés. They’ve also engaged in an urban beautification efforts, based on the colorful graffiti and murals cropping up around the area.

Prior to becoming “Seoul’s Brooklyn,” as some of the local press has labeled it, Seongsu-dong was best known for its many small-scale shoemakers. In the 1980s, this was the place to go for handmade shoes, and at one point, around 1,200 shoemakers plied their trade here.

Cheap imports led to the near collapse of the industry in the early 2000s, however. Herculean efforts on the part of manufacturers to upgrade their products – and support from Seoul Metropolitan Government – has allowed the industry to survive and, in fact, experience something of a renewed boom. Once again, the neighborhood is the place to get high-quality but moderately priced handmade footwear.

One place to check out is From SS, a stylishly designed arcade directly underneath Seongsu Station. Opened by Seoul Metropolitan Government in 2013, the arcade has seven shops operated by local shoemakers where you can pick up as fine a pair of shoes as your credit limit will allow. Also nearby is Seongsu Handmade Shoe Town, a floorspace/workshop/training center operated by local shoemakers.

As noted earlier, the influx of young creatives into Seongsu-dong is gradually giving it a Williamsburg-like feel. And if hipsters take one thing seriously, it’s their food, an area in which Seongsu-dong does not disappoint. Especially around Ttukseom Station, you’ll find a wide range of chic eateries and cafés – often renovated residential or industrial facilities – frequented by the city’s young, creative class. Keep your eye out for a handmade burger joint, a soup and pie café and a Korean eatery seemingly ripped from the pages of Kinfolk. One place, a four-story brick café/culture space hidden an alley near Exit 2 of Ttukseom Station, not only looks the part but serves the part with a menu of shaved ice desserts, or bingsu, served in mason jars seemingly pulled straight from Pinterest. The café hosts exhibits and provides support to local artists, too.

A walk in the forest

Another short distance from Ttukseom Station brings you to the entrance of Seoul Forest. One of the finest expanses of green space in the city, the collection of gardens, trees and walking trails was built on the former home of Seoul’s horse racing track, completed in 2005. It bills itself as Seoul’s answer to New York’s Central Park, and there’s certainly a large number of grass fields, pleasure ponds, playground and leisure facilities and, naturally, lots and lots of foliage on offer. There’s also a small community of Formosan sika deer that you can toss food to. An architectural highlight is the scenic pedestrian bridge linking the park with the hiking and biking trails along the Hangang River.

While you’re at the park, be sure to check out the Seoul Waterworks Museum. Founded in 1907 by two American businessmen who had been commissioned by the Korean government, Seoul Waterworks introduced Seoulites to the joys of clean, running water. The old pump house, a lovely Victorian brick building dating from the original founding of the facility, now houses displays of old machinery and historical photos. The old sand filters that used to purify the water – large, concrete caves with pillars and arched ceilings – are open to the public, too.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Exploring the city as seen in Marvel Studios’ latest blockbuster hit

The eagerly anticipated action-thriller film “Avengers: Age of Ultron” is out in theaters and, given the movie’s high-profile film shoots in Seoul during March and April of last year, few were surprised when the city served as a notable backdrop in the film. It’s not the first time the Korean capital has appeared in a Hollywood picture, but never before has it featured as prominently in so major a blockbuster.

While Seoulites will easily recognize most of the filming locales, international visitors might be slightly at a loss. Fortunately, most of the spots are easy to find, and are located in fascinating neighborhoods that are worth exploring in their own right.

From cutting-edge to old school

“Avengers” depicts Seoul as a high-tech center, so perhaps it’s fitting that we begin our exploration at Sangam-dong’s Digital Media City, where tomorrow is very much today. Designed as a hub for Korea’s entertainment and media industries, the 570,000-square-meter cluster of futuristic architecture is home to many of Korea’s biggest TV channels, including MBC, SBS and YTN. The cutting-edge cityscape of glass and steel appears as if lifted straight from a science fiction movie, appropriately enough. One of the halls, the Digital Pavilion, has interactive exhibits that give you a taste of Korea’s tech-savvy future. The massive headquarters of Korean broadcaster MBC has exhibits and hands-on programs as well (T. 02-789-0011 to make a reservation). Be sure to check out “Square M-Communication,” a piece of large-scale installation art that resembles a man looking at his own image on a screen. In the film, Hawkeye (played by Jeremy Renner) flies his futuristic Quinjet aircraft directly over the work, which represents how the media promotes humanism and communication.

TIP> For those interested in Korean rather than Hollywood cinematic history, pop into the Korean Film Archive, where there’s a museum and, more importantly, Cinematheque KOFA, which runs daily screenings of classic Korean films.

From Digital Media City, hop on the subway (Digital Media City Station, AREX line), transfer to Line 5 at Gongdeok Station and get off at Mapo Station. From there, take a short walk until you reach the Mapodaegyo, a bridge where, in “Avengers,” Captain America hangs on to a truck carrying the synthetic body of Ultron. Erected in 1970, the bridge, which connects the district of Mapo-gu north of the river with the district of Yeongdeungpo-gu south of it, offers beautiful views of the skyscrapers of Yeouido – also known as “Seoul’s Manhattan” – and the Hangang River. The sunrises and sunsets here can be quite inspiring, with two observation decks from which you can take them in. The bridge is also called the “Bridge of Life,” and along the structure you’ll find installation art, LED lights and digital signs encouraging would-be bridge jumpers to give life a chance.

From the Mapo Bridge, head back to Mapo Station and take Line 5 to Yeongdeungpo Market Station. From Exit 4, walk about 20 minutes until you reach the gritty Mullae-dong metalworking district, where the movie’s dramatic subway derailment scene takes place. Metalworking shops began to congregate in the neighborhood in the 1960s; today you’ll find about 1,700 smiths plying their trade here. Over the last decade, however, young artists have been moving in, attracted by the low rents and industrial atmosphere. As you roam the alleyways lined by grungy metalworking shops, you’ll also notice the colorful wall murals and street sculptures added by the more recent inhabitants. Some of the old shops and factories have been converted into studios, cafés and restaurants, too. One old home, for instance, was converted into an especially charming slow-food eatery. Another old workshop, meanwhile, is now a woodwork atelier. Several wine bars have recently moved in as well.

TIP> Seoul Art Space Mullae (T. 02-2676-4300) is part arts-incubator, part exhibit space and part community support center. It’s a good place to get an idea of what’s happening in the neighborhood artistically.

Madcap driving in the heart of Gangnam Style

Much of Seoul’s on-screen time comes in the form of furious car and aerial chases in the Gangnam area and along the Hangang River.

From Mullae-dong, head to Mullae Station, hop on Line 2 and get off at Gangnam Station, the beating heart of Seoul’s vibrant Gangnam district, made famous internationally by the Psy song that bears its name. Gangnam Station alone is worth visiting just to appreciate the impressive flow of traffic that passes through one of the busiest subway stations in the world – more than 100,000 people get on or get off a subway here every day. On a Friday or Saturday night, the area around the station is simply electric, like watching a perpetually moving tidal wave of humanity.

Much of the chase scene in “Avengers,” with Black Window (played by Scarlett Johansson) zipping in and out of traffic as she follows the truck carrying Ultron’s body, takes place along Gangnam-daero, the main boulevard that passes through Gangnam, and its alleyways near the CGV movie theater. The space has the look of a man-made canyon, lined as it is by towering skyscrapers. The more architecturally inspired structures include the futuristic Samsung campus, designed by U.S. firm Kohn Pedersen Fox, and the twin redbrick high-rises of Kyobo Tower, built by renowned Swiss architect Mario Botta. Between Gangnam Station and Kyobo Tower are 22 so-called “Media Poles,” 12-meter-tall digital obelisks that dispense tourist information, display digital art and provide photo and email services, among other things. In addition to their practical value, the poles also serve to remind visitors that they are in the center of one of the world’s most digitally ubiquitous cities.

TIP> The area around Gangnam Station is a popular nightlife spot – you’ll be tripping over bars and restaurants.

From Gangnam Station, hop on the Seocho No. 3 bus and get off four stops later at Garosu-gil. With a name meaning “Tree-lined Street” in Korean, it was not so long ago that the pleasantly leafy road was lined by galleries, ateliers and unique cafés. Nowadays, the shops and restaurants have grown a bit more upscale, but the neighborhood is still a very charming place to walk around. Garosu-gil did not appear in “Avengers,” but it did appear in actor Mark Ruffalo’s Instagram feed – the man responsible for playing Dr. Bruce Banner/Hulk was apparently amused by a mascot in a foot costume hawking a foot massage joint at a Garosu-gil crosswalk. “Seoul sole,” he called it.

Finally, from Sinsa Middle School, get on Bus No. 143 and ride eight stops to the south end of the Banpo Bridge. This is where you’ll find Banpo Hangang Park and the architecturally curious Some Sevit, three glass and steel islands floating on the Hangang River. The islands, which function as an event space and house restaurants and cafés, are in fact the first piece of Seoul that moviegoers see in the film, where they serve as the laboratory of geneticist Helen Cho (played by Kim Soo-hyun). Pleasant enough during the day, Some Sevit’s floating islands are even more spectacular at night, when they are lit up by a fantastic, multicolor LED display. Make time to stop by the top of the biggest island, where there’s an observation deck with great views of the river and the city beyond.

TIP> If you’re visiting Some Sevit at night, be sure to also check out Banpo Moonlight Rainbow Fountain, which is just next door. The Banpo Bridge is lined by 380 water jets and LED lights that are used to produce a dazzling, music-accompanied water show.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Style, sweets and eats in Seoul’s Little Europe after the sunset

Sinsa Station – Muneo Chicken – Serosu-gil – Deli Heinzburg – Pier 17 – Garosu-gil – A-LAND – Around the Corner – 8seconds – 9 Owls – Simone Handbang Museum – Material Bazaar – Olive Young – Lobs – Narosu-gil – Dore Dore – Sambazon Boto Acai – Mercy Juice – Yollo – Spa Lei

It’s no secret that Korea, in the short span of a decade, has become one of Asia’s biggest epicenters of music, film and pop culture. Yet, as the country’s cultural influence continues to expand to other regions of the world, more and more people are looking to Korea for the latest trends in beauty and fashion.

Sinsa-dong, situated just south of the Han River in the upscale Gangnam district, is an incubator of such trends. It is a must-visit neighborhood for those seeking to shop for the hottest styles and places to unwind with a glass of wine after a long day. Often touted as the “Paris of Korea,” the European-esque fashion district sparkles with gorgeously decorated boutiques, modern dining spaces and romantic cafés at night. Perhaps the only things more beautiful than the area itself are the people that wander its sidewalks, perfectly polished and ever-ready to strike a pose for the amateur fashion bloggers competing for the best shot.

But knowing where to start in Sinsa can be a bit daunting, as the neighborhood’s dining, shopping and entertainment options are endless. Fortunately, thanks to the collective big data research efforts of the Seoul Tourism Organization, SK Telecom and Shinhan bank, a helpful self-guided tour route has been created, featuring international travelers’ favorite hangouts in a neighborhood that is particularly beautiful at night, when storefront windows are illuminated and crowds dwindle.

So, follow along with this issue’s Seoul Walks guide that incorporates this evening tour, as well as some lesser known neighborhood gems, to get the full Sinsa experience.

Chicken, octopus and gumbo

Located just minutes from Sinsa Station, Muneo Chicken is a perfect place to begin a night out in Sinsa. Although the popular eatery serves up a good selection of fried treats, their most popular dish is the platter which shares the name of the restaurant: a large portion of fried octopus (served whole) and chicken, accompanied by a salad and potato wedges. The unusual chewy-crispy texture combination and tasty flavors of the dish pair well with Muneo Chicken’s signature frozen beer.

Nearby Serosu-gil offers more dining options to cater to even the pickiest of palates. Head to Pier 17 for authentic New Orleans cuisine, which serves gumbo, jambalaya and boiled seafood as well as some very creative cocktails. Try the Shark Attack, a blue margarita topped with a plastic shark that oozes strawberry daiquiri “blood” when squeezed.

Material world

After fueling up on food and throwing back a few drinks, make your way to Garosu-gil, Sinsa’s gateway to fashion and beauty.A-LAND and Around the Corner are multi-shops that appeal to the individual seeking something unconventional. 8seconds offers basic duds that come in a variety of colors and prints. Those in the market for something a bit more classic should check out 9 Owls, a vintage boutique overflowing with fun styles from the 1970s and 80s, and an entire wall of Chanel bags that will make any fashionista go gaga.

Speaking of bags, the Simone Handbag Museum, housed in a striking building with a glass facade and a roof made to resemble purse handles, can’t be missed. One floor is dedicated to contemporary styles of the West while the other features historical handbags dating back to as early as the 1500s. The building also boasts a workshop where Korean artisans can be watched cutting, stripping and sewing the latest designs. Fashion enthusiasts can also create their own handbags with the gorgeous, high-quality materials on sale in the Material Bazaar,.

Makeup junkies will be happy to know that Garosu-gil is brimming with beauty shops that cater to just about every budget. Olive Young and Lohb’s are undoubtedly Sinsa’s best one-stop shops for all your beauty needs. The latter is the bigger of the two, but both offer an endless array of domestic and international brands of toiletries, cosmetics and even specialty snacks. There are also entire sections dedicated to male grooming, so guys will not feel left out of the Sinsa shopping experience.

Something sweet

No visit to Sinsa is complete without a visit to one of the area’s many dessert cafés, and neighboring Narosu-gil abounds with the neighborhood’s best. The display cases at the counter of Dore Dore are hypnotizing and lure customers like moths to a flame. Stocked with mile-high layered cakes of every color and flavor, it’s impossible not to order a slice. Most patrons go straight for the rainbow varieties, of which there are two kinds: Precious, made of rainbow-colored cake layers separated with fresh cream, and Feel Good!, a similar concept that uses thick slabs of Philadelphia cream cheese.

For those watching their waistlines, there are healthier treats to be had further down the road. Sambazon Boto Acai, a relatively new snack joint, has only one item on their menu: the acai bowl. Generous portions of pureed acai berry are topped with nutritional ingredients such goji berries, chia seeds, cacao nibs and a variety of fresh fruit; the bowls are as healthy as they are tasty and refreshing. Detox juice can be found at Mercy Juice and greek yogurt at Yollo.

No boys allowed

When the food coma settles in, hail a taxi to Spa Lei to soothe your aching shopping arms. Spa Lei is for women only and goes out of its way to accommodate its female guests. The rock sauna, which is essentially a bed of heated stones that contour to the curves of the body, is particularly relaxing, and the massaging jets of the hot tubs will have you never wanting to leave Sinsa-dong. Eventually, you must, but for the time being, soak it up and enjoy.

This content is based on Korea Culture & Tourism Institute’s R&D project to analyze big data compiled from roaming services.  

Written by Mimsie Ladner
Photographed by Mimsie Ladner and Ryu Seunghoo

See why Hongdae is still the place to be[/box_light]

Written by Deanne Nguyen

Photographed by Jessica Ling

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This course is the evening segment of the Sangam & Hongdae one-day tour, designed to give you the full Korean Wave experience. Sangam-dong, the new Hallyu headquarters with several major production and broadcasting companies, is perfect for a day trip, while Hongdae, four subway stops away,  is the scene where Korean culture, both pop and indie, manifests, especially at night. More information on planning a Sangam day trip can be soon found at visitseoul.net.

K-stars and their K-style – if the Korean Wave has washed over you, thenthere’s no better place to tread the path of such tastemakers as Hongdae, the live-wire district of music and art culture. The ever-trending university area remains the only place in Seoul where you can transition from daytime exploring to nighttime adventures just as easily asyou shuffle through your K-Popplaylist.

To the uninitiated, Hongdae can be a bit overwhelming at first: Its bright lights, meandering alleyways and undiscovered hole-in-the-wall shops make finding your niche a bit challenging among the neighborhood’s art-kid energy. For this reason, SEOUL has brought in some help, this month in the form of big data, the collaborated efforts of the Seoul Tourism Organization, SK Telecom and Shinhan Card. While some of the results may not be surprising–we noticed a surging interest for Korean fashion – it has aided in our search for the most popular sights in this iconic neighborhood, as well as help us tease out some of the underrated experiences. In light of these discoveries,we suggest you give Hongdae’s bustling evening scene another shot: Check out our how-to for the quintessential Korean night on the town, and give yourself a makeover that’sedgy and fun – no hearsay, no rumors, just facts.

‘Happen Ending’

Finding the YG Entertainment building from Hapjeong Station isn’tas difficult as you’d think, but grab a coffee anyways, for you’re on one of best streets anywhere to do so. As you snap a few photos next to the avant-garde tower – selfie sticks for KRW 5,000 in the subway station were a good investment – you can imagine seeing Tablo emerge, and the song “Happen Ending” pops into your head from Epik High’s new album. In case you weren’t aware, night of party is what is about to “happen.” Energy restored, now you’re ready for the pre-game: shopping.

‘Dali, Van, Picasso’

Walking toward the university gate, you pass by a series of street makeup brands with life-sized posters of male actors like Kim Soo-hyun or Jo In-sung. The scenery takes a sudden turn when you enter an alley off the main street with wall-to-wall murals. After gazing at each one intently, you begin humming the chorus to Beenzino’s rap “Dali, Van, Picasso” as you reach the east side.

Hongdae’s vibe, as you now see from the stores and the people-watching, is effortless with a bent edge–the true Hongdae touch. The must-go spots, so you’re told, are the flagship stores Style Nanda, sitting on a nearbyside street parallel with the art school, and Atria, closer to Exit 8 of Hongdae Station.Style Nanda is for bold street-style-photographer bait. There’s also the quintessential Hongdae  institution Aland and the up-and-comer Understar, with popularity that’s now been big-data affirmed.

‘I’m Different’

Despite being shopped out, there’s still the matter of primping. When else can you get an authentically K-Pop star-esque look? There are a dozen hair-and-makeup salons nearby. One of the Hair by Miga chain salons is near the subway where simple, party-prepped hair is listed for KRW 20,000-25,000. Their limited English isn’t a problem; a picture of CL alone will suffice.

Leaving the salon feeling freshly dusted with “I’m different” by Hi Suhyun playing overheard, you catch whiffs of live music mixed with the cheers of an impressed crowd. A couple streets from Exit 9, there are buskers abound: A magician charms the crowd on one end and a caricature artist works on a nearby ledge, but what resonates with you is a songstress offeringanacoustic rendition of AOA’s comeback, “Like a Cat.”

It goes for Korea too that drinks are expensive in clubs, not to mention impossible to get once the places are properly packed. Pre-gaming is not a bad idea, especially if it’s accompanied with Korean-style fried chicken, now statistically proven to be one of Korea’s most popular foods among the young and hip. A good place to get some is BBQ Hapjeong Star. It’s owned by Sungyeol, a member of the pop group Infinite, but don’t let that turn you away – the food is actually worth seeking out.

‘Fantastic Baby’

The final tier to the evening cake is still to come: clubs. Thursday Party has an American college town pub kind of vibe, right down to the beer pong and its English-speaking regulars. Naked seems to be the place to be; a queue of club-ready people outside speaks volumes. A few minutes away on foot are local favorites, NB1 and NB2, acronyms for the first and second Noise Basements, and both have huge lines and the familiar sounds of K-Pop blasting out their respective front doors. The crowd is part of the fun, but if you actually want room to dance, arriving before midnight is key.

The DJ interlaces samplings of AmericanTop 40 with techno and electronic synth, and bass with a bit of shuffle is a familiar and catchy boost. It’s the remix of Big Bang’s “Fantastic Baby” that reminds you that K-Pop has been your reliable pulse throughout the day and continues on into the night.

Dance cardio drains the group and everyone is eager for some street-style tteokbokki, sweet and fiery rice cakes, and some fresh air. One spicy bite makes you exhale your 4 AM weariness as you inhale the crisp air of early winter. Looking around, couples linking arms laugh and shuffle into taxis for some late night Korean barbeque, while groups of men post-army discharge race to gulp down soju-coffees outside a convenient store to keep the party going. Hongdae is still ready to shuffle; all you have to do is press play.

This content is based on Korea Culture & Tourism Institute’s R&D project to analyze big data compiled from roaming services.