Historical. Rustic. Laid back. Pastoral. Provincial.

These are the words that usually come to mind when you think of Ganghwado.

But cool?

Gyeongnidan-gil or Yeonnam-dong it is not, but Ganghwa-eup, the county seat of the west coast island, is turning trendy. Not so long ago, travelers often gave the town a pass, moving as quickly as possible to Ganghwado’s mountains and beaches. Now, however, local authorities and creatively minded residents are making local history fresh, restoring and renovating pieces of the community’s past and tying them together to create broader narratives reflecting the country’s modern history. The result is a town worth visiting on its own merits, a place where the story of 20th century Korea is entirely within walking distance.

Textile Town, Korea

Though most people associate Ganghwado with its ancient dolmens, Goryeo palace ruins, Joseon fortresses, tranqil temples, sacred mountains, extensive mudflats and poignant views of North Korea, the island at the mouth of the Hangang River — sometimes likened to an unsinkable aircraft carrier guarding the road to Seoul — was a major industrial center. And not so long ago, either. From 1916, when Ganghwado’s first textile association was formed, to the 1970s, textile factories large and small covered the island, pumping out some of the nation’s finest fabrics. By the 1960s, there were some 6,000 hand-operated looms in private homes throughout the island and another 1,000 power looms at textile factories. In Ganghwa-eup alone, some 4,000 people worked in textile factories.

The opening of larger, more modern textile factories in the Daegu region marked the end of Ganghwado’s textile golden age. Competition from imported fabric didn’t help, either. Most of the island’s textile factories closed down, though a handful still remain.

One of the island’s oldest and largest textile factories was Choyang Textile (T. 032-933-2192). The factory, completed in 1934, is the oldest surviving modern textile factory in the country and two years older than Seoul’s more famous Gyeongseong Textile, founded by influential businessman, educator and politician Kim Seong-su in 1936. By the 1960s, Choyang Textile’s looms were producing Korea’s finest artificial fabrics.

Like most of Ganghwado’s other looms, Choyang Textile eventually shut its doors, the old factory falling into disrepair. The historical property wasn’t town down, however. A couple from Seoul eventually acquired the site, which they renovated and turned into one of Korea’s hottest cafés. Opened in February of this year, the cafe — which kept the name of the old factory — is part museum, part gallery, part coffeehouse and all cool. Its myriad spaces, from the high-roofed factory space to the colonial-style former office and even the old safe, have been preserved in their charmingly disheveled state, the addition of art pieces, vintage furniture and other antiques only accentuating the site’s historicity. In a strange way, it’s a bit like walking around a Roman ruin, but with coffee.

On a weekend, the place is packed with visitors, many of them young and social media savvy. Be warned, though, that DSLR photography is strongly discouraged.

Choyang Textile is one of the centerpieces of the so-called Sochang Course, one of three themed walking trails through Ganghwa-eup’s alleyways. The Sochang Course focuses on Ganghwa-eup’s textile industry and the role it has played in the town’s history. The trail links the sites of some of the old factories. Though some of the factories have disappeared completely, pieces of others remain, including crumbling walls and lonely smoke stacks.

One site on the trail definitely worth visiting is the Sochang Experience Center (T. 032-934-2500). The center boasts two historical properties, an old Hanok from the 1930s and a disused factory — now museum — from the 1950s. The space houses an exhibit of old looms and other textile machinery, shares historical information and hosts classes on textile making and other hands-on programs. It also has a gift shop where you can purchase locally made fabrics.

Freedom and religion

As noted earlier, the Sochang Course is but one of three themed walking trails weaving their way through the alleys of Ganghwa-eup’s historical downtown.

The Dongnip Undong Course takes you to sites connected to Korea’s struggle for independence. Though most of the destinations relate to the 20th century fight against Japanese colonial rule, one of the sites — the Joseon era stone monument to Kim Sangyong — is dedicated to a scholar official who blew himself up with a stockpile of gunpowder just as invading Manchu forces were taking Ganghwa-eup, where the Korean royal family had fled.

The star of the Dongnip Undong Course is the so-called House of Kim Koo. It is said the famed independence activist Kim Koo stayed at this charming old Hanok for three months in 1900, working as the headmaster of a local Confucian school. A photograph taken in 1946 lends some credence to the claim. Near the house is the Nammunno 7 (T. 032-933-9300), a delightfully vintage café, and Sogeumbit Seojeom-Yurim  Sanghoe (T. 032-934-3456), a conjoined bookstore and pottery shop run by a husband-and-wife team.

The other trail is the Jonggyo Course, highlighting the town’s religious heritage. Confucian, Catholic and Protestant sites feature prominently on this excursion. The most breathtaking by far, however, is Ganghwa Anglican Church. Built in 1900 by a royal architect at the behest of British missionaries, the church is built in traditional Korean style, with colorfully painted eaves, tiled roof and wood and paper windows, though the spacial layout is that of a Roman basilica, with a high central nave, flanking aisles and clerestory. The church is one of Ganghwa’s most stunning sights.

A bit of cool

The walking trails aren’t all Ganghwa-eup has to offer. Even off the beaten track there are places to explore.

For a bit of spiritual healing, find Ttalgi Books (T. 070-8865-0385), a small independent bookstore in one of the downtown’s old alleyways. To make their shop, the owners renovated an old Hanok home, exposing the rafters of the original ceiling. Though small, the space is warm and inviting. The collection is heavy on picture books and children’s literature, though there are some interesting used books on sale, too. Coffee is also available.

To sample a bit of the new Ganghwa-eup, try the nearby café Sol’t (T. 010-4083-8553). With its minimalist decor, handmade macarons and creative drink menu that includes a Ssuk Vienna, a cup of mugwort tea topped with cream, the place has all the hip sophistication of the best Yeonnam-dong or Seongsu-dong cafés. It makes the perfect spot to relax and Instagram a bit after a long day walking around.

More Info

STAY> Need maps of Ganghwa-eup’s walking trails? Head to the tourist information center on the third floor of the B Wing of Ganghwa-eup’s Central Market. There you’ll find maps — in English as well as in Korean — along with VR exhibits and more.
On the second floor, meanwhile, is a youth mall where young entrepreneurs have opened restaurants and other shops. It’s a popular place to eat, especially for local youth.

GO> Bus No. 3000 to Ganghwado depart from a stop near the Hyundai Department Store in Sinchon (travel time: about two hours).

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Though just a stone’s throw from some of Seoul’s best known tourist destinations, including Namdaemun Market, Myeong-dong and Namsan Mountain, Hoehyeon-dong gets overlooked by travelers. This is a shame, really. A little piece of old Seoul in the heart of the bustling downtown, the neighborhood functions as an outdoor museum to the city’s history, a reminder of decades past, of the time before the glass skyscrapers and the neon lights. It’s a place to get lost in, wandering the narrow hillside alleys, taking in the textures, the sounds, the aromas.

Or at least that’s what it’s like now. Change might be on the way, however. The addition to the neighborhood of Piknic, one of the city’s trendiest art spaces, is drawing a younger crowd — and younger entrepreneurs — to Hoehyeon-dong. The opening last year of Seoullo 7017, too, has helped more people discover the district’s charms. Seoul Metropolitan Government, too, has recently announced plans to renovate the neighborhood, to refurbish its alleys and clean up its historical sites. How much longer the gritty Hoehyeon-dong of old will last is anyone’s guess, so explore it now before it’s gone forever.

A Piknic away from the mundane

Piknic (www.piknic.kr) is hidden amid the jungle of an old neighborhood on the northern slope of Namsan Mountain. Despite being a rather large building, it’s easy to miss, the hilly landscape and neighboring buildings obscuring your view. Unless you’re paying attention, you could pass its gate without even knowing it’s there.

Operated by the exhibition production company Glint, Piknic is a multifaceted cultural complex, complete with exhibit halls, a café, design shop and even a Michelin star restaurant. In keeping with trends, the building is an old office from the 1970s, remodeled and reinterpreted for use as an arts space. From its open rooftop, you can enjoy excellent views of Namsan Mountain and downtown Seoul.

Piknic’s maiden exhibition, “Ryuichi Sakamoto: LIFE, LIFE,” is a beautiful yet concise presentation of Japanese musician and composer Ryuichi Sakamoto’s 40-year career as an artist, focusing on collaborations with other renown world artists such as Nam June Paik. The exhibit presents Sakamoto’s work as installations, providing the audience with a unique experience, a “picnic away from the mundane.”

The installation this writer enjoyed the most was the mysteriously named, “Life-fluid, invisible, inaudible …” The visuals created by fog on water and projector are very relaxing — you need to lie down to appreciate it. The sound and music simply add to the experience.

On the first floor, you’ll find Kafe Piknic, a spacious café designed around an extremely long table. Though not exactly cozy, the elongated table introduces a fun new dynamic to the café experience. Maybe you’ll need to scooch over a seat to make a place for new guests. Then maybe you will end up talking with a stranger and their company. Who knows?

Also on the first floor is the design shop Kiosk Kiosk with its curated collection of books, badges, clothes, bags, stationary and other items. On the third floor is Zero Complex, a Michelin-starred French restaurant renowned for its innovative cuisine and design. Good luck getting in without a reservation, though.

Vintage charm on Namsan Mountain

If you head in the direction of Namdaemun Market from Piknic, you’ll find a little convenience store, a takeout coffee shop, a hat shop, restaurant, a wine shop and even a small Buddhist temple. You’ll also find an elevator that connects to Seoullo 7017, the historic overpass-turned-elevated park.

Also near Piknic there is a visually impressive relic of decades past. The landmark Hoehyeon Citizen’s Apartment reminds you of an old castle, albeit a run-down one. Completed in 1970, the giant complex is one of the city’s oldest surviving apartments, built as part of a government program to resettle residents of illegal shantytowns that grew after the Korean War. The city recently announced a plan to renovate the historic building, once thought ready for the wrecking ball, transforming it into a cultural space. Though largely empty, the complex is still home to about 60 families.

Just above Hoehyeon Citizen’s Apartment is the tastefully minimalist Café Mamoe (T. 02-776-2008), a small coffeehouse boasting lovely views over the surroundings, especially from its outdoor terrace. Not far from Café Mamoe are forested walking trails and the lower terminal for the Namsan Cable Car. If you’re up for a bit of historical exploration, Seoul’s old fortress wall is but a short walk away.

Below Piknic is a maze of narrow alleyways lined by single-story homes, low-rise apartments and small businesses. The heart of Hoehyeon-dong, the neighborhood is an outdoor museum of Seoul’s modern history. In the days of the Joseon Dynasty, the valleys on the northern slope of Namsan Mountain were home to scholars and artists of humble means. In the early 20th century, however, Japanese settlers moved into the area, transforming Hoehyeon-dong into a colonial residential zone. Many of these homes, easily recognized by their distinctive mixture of Japanese and Western elements, remain today. The city plans to give the area a bit of a facelift, adding decorative walls and cleaning facades in order to turn the neighborhood, which in days of old was called “Southern Village,” or Namchon, into a travel destination to rival Bukchon, its posher counterpart to the north.

Also in the tangle of alleyways are plenty of old restaurants, some several decades old (see Dining section). Often run by the same families for several generations, these places are living history, offering plenty of ambience in addition to good food. Some favorites include Hoehyeonjip, renowned for its kimchi jjigae; Jinjujip, which has been serving delicious kkori gomtang for 70 years; Yaraehyang, a Chinese restaurant run by a chef with five decades of experience; and Eunho Sikdang, which has been doing gomtang for even longer than Jinjujip.

For something really different, step inside the newly opened L’Escape Hotel (www.lescapehotel.com), located just behind Hoehyeon Station. Billing itself as a “Parisian escape in the heart of Seoul,” the Shinsegae Group’s boutique hotel is not an exercise in moderation. The space boasts decadently baroque room designed by Jacques Garcia, the French architect renowned for his work at some of the world’s swankiest hotels and even for the Sultan of Brunei. The dining options are equally decadent, featuring collaborations with local and international artisans such as Seoul dessert shop Maison M’O and New York restaurant The Modern, with its two Michelin stars. The bar on the top floor is not only lavishly appointed, but also directed by London bartender group Taxonomy.

Written by Seungwoo Jin
Photographed by Robert Koehler

The tones in the sky turn from cool to warm as the day begins. The sun rises slowly on the horizon, but it takes a while to clear the last remaining clouds from a storm that just passed. Low clouds drift slowly by the rocky cliffs surrounding the temple. The towns below are still silent as the monks’ morning chants echo through the mountains. Geumsan Mountain — what a perfect place to start the day on Namhae Island.

Located in Gyeongsangnam-do, Namhae is Korea’s fifth-largest island. It consists of two islands, both connected to the mainland and each other by bridges: the larger island of Namhae-do and the smaller Changseon-do to the northeast. As is true with all parts of Hallyeohaesang National Park, Namhae offers splendid landscapes and amazing sea views. The scenic drive alone brings droves of visitors, especially on the weekends. Namhae is primarily farming and fishing country, well-known for producing rice, garlic and anchovies. More recently, Namhae has earned recognition as one of the country’s hottest tourist destinations.

A temple in the clouds

High atop Geumsan Mountain on Namhae-do is the Boriam Hermitage. Built in the year 683 by the famous monk Wonhyo-daesa, the temple is known for its three-story pagoda that overlooks the ocean. The first Joseon king Taejo was said to have prayed here for 100 days before he became ruler of the land. Boriam also features one of three Haesu Gwaneum (Seawater Great Goddess Buddha) statues in Korea. Its mountaintop location offers beautiful panoramic views of the island below and is an especially good spot to watch the sunrise. Visitors may drive, hike or take the shuttle bus up to the scenic temple.

Beauty from necessity

Daraengi Village is one of Namhae’s most well-known locations. This farming village on the island’s southern coast is famous for its beautiful farming terraces among unforgiving coastal cliffs. Early villagers built the terraces, 108 of them to be exact, one at a time on the steep mountainside using stone walls. Their perseverance turned a harsh landscape into fertile farmland for crops such as rice and garlic. It also, perhaps unwittingly, transformed the area into a unique and picturesque landscape that attracts visitors from all over. More recently, Daraengi Village’s popularity has prompted some villagers to move from farming to opening cafés, restaurants and accommodations for visitors.

Another wonderful example of Namhae’s culture and ingenuity is the jukbangnyeom, or V-shaped bamboo weirs. The fast-moving waters in the Jijok Strait made conventional fishing difficult, so fishermen invented jukbangnyeom to use the strong currents to their advantage. The shape of the weir allows the fish to be drawn into the net during high tide. Come low tide, the water drains out of the trap, leaving the fish to be harvested. According to locals, the fast-moving currents in the Jijok Strait make the anchovies especially firm. Moreover, the design of the jukbangnyeom supposedly prevents bruising of the fish, making for a higher quality product. For this reason, jukbang myeolchi tend to have higher market prices than conventionally harvested anchovies. To this day, you can see the jukbangnyeom in the Jijok Straight, between the two islands of Namhae-do and Changseon-do.

A tale of two villages

Namhae is home to two foreign villages. The first and arguably more popular is the German Village. The village was built as a retirement community for Korean miners and nurses who went to Germany in the 1960s to help grow the then-developing Korean economy. As compensation for their service, the Korean government established the German Village in the 2000s for those who chose to return home. Importing materials directly from Germany, the 30 or so houses in the village were built in the German architectural style and each given a German name. Visitors to the German village can enjoy restaurants and cafés serving German fare such as schnitzel, sausages and beer. The village also hosts an annual Oktoberfest, where visitors can enjoy performances, concerts and, of course, a wide selection of beer.

The second village is the American Village. Originally designed for Korean-Americans who dreamt of returning to and retiring in their homeland, the village consists of houses inspired by suburban America. Currently, most of the houses seem to be “pensions,” or guest houses for rent. The Americana that can be found inside the village makes the experience even more interesting. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s definitely something unique to see in the Korean countryside.

Beachgoers’ delight

No island experience would be complete without beaches, and Namhae offers visitors numerous options. Sangju Silver Sand Beach is the largest one. With its 2-kilometer stretch of white sand, Sangju Beach is a popular destination all year round for camping, water sports, swimming and just relaxing with friends and family. The pine forest that lines the beach provides cooling shade for hot summer days. There are plenty of restaurants and shops around the area, making for a convenient beachgoing experience.

For a quieter time by the sea, you may visit the smaller but no less beautiful beaches on Namhae Island. Sachon Beach on the southwestern coast and Songjeong Solbaram Beach in Mijo-myeon offer fine white sand and swim-friendly waters with fewer crowds. There are also numerous other smaller beaches and coves to be discovered along Namhae’s scenic coastal drive.

New treasures

Namhae is well known for its rustic, countryside charms. However, during the past couple of years it has risen in popularity as a destination for a younger demographic. The success of Korea’s “healing” campaigns, television and media exposure, and an increase of young, artistic and enterprising individuals leaving the big city for the countryside all seem to be factors contributing to this. Add the fact that Namhae Island is easily accessible from the mainland by bridge and it’s easy to see why Namhae is being called a hotspot for tourists.

As you explore Namhae, you will definitely notice hip, young and unique establishments against the countryside backdrop, each representing their owner’s unique interests and aspirations. Dolchango Project is one such place. Founded by two artists, the Dolchango Project’s mission is to provide an exhibition space for young artists who may otherwise struggle to find opportunities in the cities. Their stone warehouse in Simun Village is one of the realizations of this vision. The original structure was built in 1967 and was once used to store grain and fertilizer. It was abandoned until the Dolchango Project converted it into an art museum, café and artist residence. They currently have two locations and are looking to use the stone warehouses around Namhae to build more.

Another interesting establishment is B-Class Store. This is the home and workshop of Sejin Woo, a fairly young woodworker who left the big-city grind of Seoul for a quieter, more fulfilling life in the countryside. In the small compound you will find his rooftop workshop and a gift shop where you can find souvenirs, books and, of course Mr. Woo’s handmade wood crafts and furniture. You may also enjoy a cup of coffee in the quaint but relaxing yard.

Other notable attractions around Namhae Island include European-inspired Seomi Garden, local favorite Café Yuja, and Hawaii-themed restaurant Alo Hawaii. Oftentimes, these establishments will seem to be in the most unlikely of places, which adds to their charm.

More info

STAY> Namhae has a wide variety of accommodations, ranging from small bed-and-breakfasts and pensions to five-star hotels and even a golf resort. Chances are your favorite B&B or hotel website will have the right accommodations for you.

EAT> Namhae is famous for its high-quality anchovies, and the island’s signature dish is the myeolchi ssambap. There are many places to get this delicious anchovy, rice and lettuce dish along the Jijok Strait. But you will definitely want to try Uri Sikdang, who has been serving it for 40 years.

GO> Driving or renting a car would probably be the best way to get to and around Namhae, as the island is large and the attractions tend to be spread out. However, it is not impossible to commute. From the Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, take the 4.5-hour bus ride to the Namhae Intercity Bus Terminal. From there, local buses and taxis would be the best way to get around. Motorcycles also seem to be a popular mode of transportation around the island.

Written and photographed by Roy Cruz

If the coexistence of old and new defines Seoul, that coexistence arrives at its extreme in Sinyongsan.

In this neighborhood, gleaming highrises loom over gritty streets seemingly unchanged for decades. Corner grocery stores and aging motels stand next to pieces by some of the art world’s biggest rock stars. In one alley, young couples wait in front of a trendy Japanese restaurant; in another, older gentlemen sit in their favorite local haunt, laughing and swapping tales over a bottle or three of soju. Sometimes, the contrast approaches the surreal, as it does in one back street where the giant mass of Amorepacific’s futuristic new corporate headquarters emerges from the pink brick facade of a low-rent inn from yesteryear.

The addition of the Amorepacific headquarters, which opened last year, is transforming the environs, too. The landmark not only has added to the neighborhood its thousands of employees, but is also drawing countless visitors with its sophisticated restaurants and cafés and innovative cultural spaces, the most spectacular being the Amorepacific Museum of Art (APMA). The influx of new people, in turn, has invigorated an erstwhile quiet, even neglected, part of the city. And with the nearby Yongsan Garrison set to be turned into a public park as the U.S. military relocated south of Seoul, locals think the changes have only just begun.

Communicating through culture

“It is more than an office. The building suggests generosity of spirit to the people who work here and the citizens,” said British architect David Chipperfield, the designer of the Amorepacific headquarters, to influential design and architecture magazine Wallpaper. “It is something that mediates between the company and the city. It shows how a company can participate in the larger community.”

The building adheres to Chipperfield’s design philosophy, which is to say, it is simple, integrated into nature and uses cutting-edge technology. Though not the only futuristic edifice in the area, and certainly not the tallest, the giant cube of aluminum and glass dominates the cityscape through mass and ingenious design, most notably its square cutouts exposing terrace courtyards, or “hanging gardens,” that connect the edifice with the outdoors.

Step inside, and you are greeted by a soaring three-story atrium illuminated by both natural and artificial light. Connected to shops, restaurants and cultural facilities such as the AMPA, the atrium is a public space, one that awes and inspires like an ancient cathedral.

The APMA occupies much of the basement level. The museum seeks to communicate with visitors through the common language of art. Kyoungran Kim, the museum’s senior curator, explains, “The AMPA differentiates itself as a space where where you can experience new sensations through exhibitions bringing together traditional and contemporary art in a variety of genres, including architecture, design and fashion, and as a museum that communicates intimately with the public.”

For its inaugural exhibit, the AMPA chose Mexican-born Canadian artist Rafael Lozano-Hemmer, one of the most active figures in the genre of media art. His exhibit at the APMA, “Decision Forest,” represents his first solo show in Korea and his first retrospective in Asia. Featuring 29 works from a 26-year career, the show — which runs through Aug. 26 — includes pieces ranging from kinetic sculptures to biometric installations, all integrating bleeding-edge technology such as virtual reality and nanotechnology. Many of the works react to the visitor’s face, voice, fingerprints and even heartbeat, creating an interactive experience. Kim explains, “The works on display are a platform of creative communication that turns the viewer into the subject.”

The APMA is not the only work of art on the premises. Amorepacific has a tradition of integrating exceptional works of art into their spaces, and its new headquarters is no exception. Renowned installation artist Olafur Eliasson’s “Overdeepening” stands in the park just in front of the building, while the illuminated display “Infinite Bloom” graces the “hanging garden” on the fifth floor, a space not ordinarily open to the public.

A transitional space transitioning

The centerpiece of a masterplan to transform the urban core of the Yongsan district, the Amorepacific headquarters has quickly become one of the city’s hot spots. This has been a boon to the surrounding neighborhood, where shops and restaurants bustle with the influx of new customers. Because the Ministry of Defense and the sprawling Yongsan Garrison are just next door, the neighborhood has long faced development restrictions, turning it into an outdoor museum of 20th century Seoul, its narrow streets lined by colonial-era homes and offices, low-rise brick residences, old restaurants and pubs and one of the city’s oldest surviving apartment complexes. Though new, trendy spaces are opening every day, the area still retains its original character, more or less.

Many visitors to Sinyongsan eat and drink in the basement arcade of Amorepacific, where a carefully curated selection of eateries and cafés await (see Dining section), including a branch of Jeju coffeeshop Dorrell and tea brand Osulloc’s premium tea shop, Osulloc 1979. If you’re willing to do a bit of exploring, however, hidden around the headquarters are many culinary gems, some being old local favorites, others new additions to the neighborhood.

One of Sinyongsan’s hottest eateries is Monami Curry, the recently opened Seoul branch of the popular Daegu eatery. Housed in a restored Korean War-era home in an alley abutting Amorepacific, the place combines vintage charm with beautifully presented Japanese homestyle dishes such as curry, croquettes and karaage, or Japanese-style fried chicken. An Instagram favorite is the “half-half” curry, or ban-ban keore, a tricolor plate of beef tomato curry and cream shrimp curry, divided by a wall of white rice.

Just up the alley from Monami Curry is Boiling Pot Coffee, a renovated 85-year-old house with a rooftop space overlooking the neighborhood. The coffee shop also doubles as an art gallery. Park Min-cheol, the owner, says, “I love this building. It has a history, a story.” He adds, “This neighborhood is a border zone — you have Amorepacific on one side, and on the other you have Sinyongsan, which is like walking around in the 1990s.”

Tucked into a cluster of alleys a minute’s walk from Amorepacific is Bukcheon Donkkaseu, a narrow, two-story hole-in-the-wall beloved by foodies for its breaded pork cutlets smothered in brown gravy. Expect to wait in a line if you visit during weekday lunch hours. Next door is another hot restaurant, Jejuok, where you can enjoy Jeju delicacies such as noodle soup with pork slices and rice balls wrapped in brown seaweed.

A little bit of Germany awaits at Kaki Baum, a café/restaurant run by a woman who learned German home-style cooking during a two-decade stay in the country. The first floor café serves lovely desserts such as apple streusel, while the second floor restaurant does schnitzels, goulash, schweinshaxe and other German favorites. On the roof, you’ll find Gamnamu Studio, a tiny but adorably designed photo studio with a lovely view over Sinyongsan.

On the same street as Kaki Baum is Invited, a renovated old two-story home-turned-chic coffeehouse serving brews prepared from beans by Melbourne-based Dukes Coffee Roasters. When the weather is nice, head up to the rooftop, where there are chairs, tables and a view.

For something on the healthy side, WeMix presents a nutritious reinterpretation of fast food with a menu of delicious salads and stews. Try the Gold Beef, a salad made from slices of flat iron steak and roasted veggies, or the hearty Tomato Beef Stew.

Several boutiques have opened in the area, too. If you’ve got a couple of hours to kill, sign up for a one-day leather-working class at 109 Leather Workshop. Run by a leather designer and long-time Yongsan resident, the storeroom/atelier also does custom wallets, bags and other products. Designer Kim Gi-hyun of design brand Heidenei! — Swabian for “Oh my God,” or something to that effect — has opened a small brick-and-mortar shop in the neighborhood, one sure to become a social media favorite.

Busier on weekdays? Really?

Yes, unlike Seoul’s other hot spots, Sinyongsan is busier on weekdays, when workers from Amorepacific, the Ministry of Defense and other local businesses and
institutions mob the local favorites, especially at the lunch hour. Weekends are relatively quiet, although this may change should word of the neighborhood’s charms continue to spread.

Editor’s Pick: Sido

Towards the Samgakji Station end of Sinyongsan is a knot of boisterous, delightfully gritty alleyways lined by old restaurants, most notably joints serving cod stew, or daegutang (see Dining section). At the end of one such alley is Sido, a small one-room café in a renovated house. Truly a hidden gem, Sido enchants with its simple menu, minimalist decor, jazz-heavy music selection and the view of Yongsan through its plate glass frontage.

More Info

Sinyongsan Station (Line 4), Exit 1.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

If the prospect of spending each day hopping between one air conditioned oasis to another sounds monotonous this summer, perhaps a trip outside of the city to greener — and cooler — surroundings is in order. Jangtaesan Recreational Forest and Daedunsan Provincial Park are two excellent options, both located 30 or 40 minutes south of Daejeon and both accessible by city bus.

An afternoon of healing

“Healing” is a term that gets used often in advertising green spaces around the country, and in Jangtaesan, it appears the visitors have really taken the concept to heart. Spaced evenly throughout the beautiful metasequoia trees are tents, picnic settings and even a few hammocks as families make the most of the cool shade and ample open space. Just a short walk away is a lotus pond where children take turns excitedly pointing out frogs swimming amongst the blooming lotus flowers and dragonflies landing on the lily pads. The amount of visitors on any nice weekend afternoon can admittedly be off-putting for some, but the relatively slow-paced atmosphere makes it far more relaxing than it ought to be.

A forest adventure

Any trip to Jangtaesan would be incomplete without a visit to  the impossible-to-miss Skytower. Winding around the park a bit like a rollercoaster, the Skytower pathway takes visitors all throughout the metasequoia canopy and culminates at a spiraling tower that overlooks the forest and surrounding area. This short walk is certainly not without thrill, as the tower in particular can be quite wobbly. Nonetheless, the tower makes for a fun walk and an excellent place to grab a few photos.

Something for everyone

Part of what makes Jangtaesan such a great summer getaway spot is that it really has something to offer a variety of visitors. When they are not out spotting frogs, children can play on the large playground or even right in the creek when things get really hot, and there is plenty of space for families to set up their own spot out of the way. With just over 5 kilometers of smooth walking and hiking trails, Jangtaesan is also quite popular with older family members looking a hiking experience that isn’t quite so demanding.

A short pit stop

While Jangtaesan itself does have a few convenience store-style cafés serving slushies, coffee and snacks, those in search of an Instagram-worthy spot should wait until the bus ride back, which makes a quick stop near Heukseongni Station at the very edge of southern Daejeon. Situated right across from a large rice paddy, the out-of-place Café Oneul caters almost exclusively to visitors on their way to and from Jangtaesan. After spending a long day walking around the the forest, proper espresso drinks and a variety of shaved ice options certainly provide an excellent pick-me-up and the cool interior offers the perfect place to end a day of relaxation and fun.

A different sort of healing

For those in search of less crowded and more scenic weekend healing, head an extra 20 minutes south of Daejeon to Daedunsan Provincial Park. While certainly not the case in autumn when the beautiful fall landscape attracts large numbers of similarly brightly adorned hikers, summer in Daedunsan is a much quieter experience. That said, the lack of crowds certainly doesn’t mean the landscape is any less spectacular. Far from it — summer in Daedunsan brings lush foliage and beautiful morning fog for those who are adventurous enough to get there early and good views of summer meteor showers and the Milky Way for those brave enough to stay out late. Standing on the peak next to a miniature pine tree while fog rolls over the rocky cliffs is an experience that takes healing to new heights.

Endorphin rush

Beating the crowds while enjoying such scenery doesn’t come easy. At 878 meters, Daedunsan isn’t anywhere near the highest peak of Korea, but the rocky path to the top is sure to get hearts pumping in even the fittest of hikers. Starting from the last bus stop at the Daedunsan rest area, the trail begins to climb quickly over a mix of small wooden stairs and large rocks before reaching the ridgeline that continues for an hour or so to the Nakjodae summit. From here, exploration of the highest ridgeline between the Nakjodae summit and Macheondae summit gives the best views of the rock cliffs and pine trees that Daedunsan is well known for. Fair warning, however: decent hiking shoes are definitely helpful here. This is not a hike that should be done in jeans and sneakers.

The easy way up

If a two-hour hike sounds out of the question, a cable car takes visitors two thirds of the way up Daedunsan and offers its own fantastic views. A trail from the end of the cable car to the top of Macheondae peak still takes an additional 30 or 40 minutes, however. It’s also one of the only crowded trails on the mountain. Those who felt like Jangtaesan’s Skytower was too much of a thrill will want to avoid Samseon Staircase, a narrow and steep suspension staircase that bridges two rocky cliffs. In the end, for those looking to get to the peak, this is still the most convenient way to do it considering the cable runs every 20 minutes between 9:00 a.m. and 6 p.m. seven days a week. A round trip ticket costs KRW 10,500 and a one way costs KRW 7,500 for those who want to take the cable car up and hike the ridgeline back down the mountain.

More than a day trip

Both Jangtaesan and Daedunsan have several options for those looking to extend their stay. In the middle of Jangtaesan lies a group of three separate pensions known as Supsokui Jip. Though they were closed for construction leading up to the summer season, they are set to reopen late June and run KRW 80,000 a night for a six-person unit. Daedunsan has decidedly more rugged accommodations, as while there are modest rooms available immediately in front of the bus stop, most overnight hikers and those looking to catch an early summer sunrise set up small tents or sleeping pads in front of the hut at Nakjodae summit. Spots inside the hut are available as well on a first-come, first-serve basis, but it is best to come prepared to sleep outside just in case. Roughing it for the night has its rewards, too, as not only does it make it catching sunrise easier, but Daedunsan is far away enough from the city that the stars at night can be spectacular.

More Info

GO> Daedunsan and Jangtaesan are both accessible by bus from Daejeon. For Jangtaesan take bus 200 from Gasuwon and transfer once on bus 22 near Heokseongni Station. A taxi saves 30—40 minutes and costs around 15,000 won. For Daedunsan, simply take bus 34 in front of Seobu Terminal and get off at the final stop.

Of course, to get to Daejeon from Seoul, simply take one of the many high-speed trains to Daejeon from Seoul Station.

Written and photographed by Nathaniel Merz

When you think of Gangnam, you imagine gleaming skyscrapers, neon lights, luxury boutiques, even more luxurious apartments, multimillion dollar entertainment companies, tides of humanity moving in and out of Gangnam Station.

Well, Songnidan-gil isn’t that. Except for the gleaming skyscraper.

Lining the stretch of road running southward through the low-rise, mostly residential district just south of East Seokchon Lake, Songnidan-gil espouses a slower, simpler, more visual way of doing things. Creative, sophisticated and, above all, young, the neighborhood embraces the gritty urban aesthetic pioneered by older neighborhoods north of the Hangang River; at the same time, it retains a distinctly Gangnam allure, with lakes, parks, mega malls and the 123-story Lotte World Tower all within easy reach.

No ordinary —nidan-gil

Like other so-called “—nidan-gil” neighborhoods like Mangwon-dong’s “Mangnidan-gil” and Geumho-dong’s “Geumnidan-gil” (featuring in the June issue of SEOUL), Songnidan-gil’s name playfully combines the location — Songpa-dong — with the granddaddy of Seoul’s alleyway hotspots, Itaewon’s Gyeongnidan-gil.

Though the neighborhood really came into its own only last year, when it caught fire on social media, its evolution from quiet residential backwater to one of the city’s trendiest destinations began in 2014, when the Lotte World Mall opened on the northern shore of Seokchon Lake. Seoul’s largest shopping complex drew many more young people to the Jamsil area with a mix of commerce and culture, hosting popular, highly Instagrammable public art events such as Florentijn Hofman’s “Rubber Duck” and Craig & Karl’s “Hi Spirits,” a collaborative exhibit with Line Friends. It wasn’t long before some of these young people discovered the relatively low rents across the lake and began opening places of their own.

To be sure, you’ll be tripping over hip, Instaready cafés, restaurants and boutiques, some of them local branches of popular shops from other “it” spots like Ikseon-dong and Yeonnam-dong.

Nevertheless, Songnidan-gil differs in significant ways.

Seoul’s other “—nidan-gil” hot spots are north of the Hangang River, in the older part of the city where gritty residential and industrial districts are many. Songnidan-gil, however, is south of the river, in Gangnam, the newer, posher Seoul, where swank has historically trumped hip.

Accordingly, just beyond this oasis of small-scale millennial cool are a lake (Seokchon Lake), an amusement park (Lotte World), a sprawling urban park (Olympic Park), a giant stadium (Olympic Stadium), one of Seoul’s largest malls (Lotte World Mall) and one of the world’s tallest buildings (Lotte World Tower), the last one visible at the end of nearly every alleyway in the neighborhood. And just beyond those are COEX, the corporate headquarters of Tehran-ro and the electric nightlife districts of Gangnam Station.

This not only provides Songnidan-gil’s residents and visitors more leisure options, but also ensures a crowd that is both steady and diverse.

Something to eat

The neighborhood is blessed with plenty of fine eateries where good food meets youthful design. One of the more popular ones is Mizza Sikdang (T. 02-425-0809), a fusion joint where the specialties include donkatsu with pollock roe and curry with crab and spinach. The food is good and the prices reasonable, but be prepared to wait in line, even if you get there early. Two doors down is Vert Vert (T. 010-9414-8094), a sandwich and salad bar popular with the brunch crowd.

Another great little sandwich bar is New Zealand Story (T. 070-7523-6265), where the menu boasts some beautifully prepared and creatively named sandwiches, salads and soups.

For a taste of Taiwan, try the beef noodle soup at Mienai (T. 02-422-0652). Even better, the open kitchen means you can watch the chefs prepare your meal as you wait.

Menya Hanabi (T. 070-8959-1108) and Manfuku (T. 02-424-4702) serve delightful, simply prepared Japanese dishes — Nagoya-style noodles at the former, Japanese home cooking at the latter.

ChangHwaDang, the Ikseon-dong dumpling shop, has opened a shop in Songnidan-gil. Like the original, it’s almost always full too, suggesting that they’re doing something right. On the same road is a branch of the Wangsimni dessert café Sammat Hotteok (T. 02-423-7676), where you, too, can experience the unmitigated joy that is their Italian Hotteok.

The flavors of the New World are well represented, too. God Eat (T. 02-487-9451) does some of the finest burritos and tacos this side of the Hangang River. Downtowner (T. 0507-1317-3696), the renowned Hannam-dong burger joint, has brought their Avocado Burgers and delectable fries here, too.

Coffee with class and one helluva view

You can’t walk five meters in Songnidan-gil without passing a tastefully appointed place to caffeinate.

Café Edit (T. 070-7787-2214) is a bit off the main drag, but it’s friendly and really brings the cute. To impress your Instagram friends, order the colorful Aurora Drink — the blue comes from tea infused with flowers.

February Roasters (T. 0507-1420-1005) serves proper coffee in a minimalist setting. For something different, try their Espresso Green Tea Latte.

Seoulism (@seoulism_gallerycafe) may be the neighborhood’s most popular café, and certainly it’s most photographed. And for good reason, too — the rooftop space boasts a jaw-dropping panorama of the Jamsil area, including, of course, Lotte World Tower. You might have to wait a bit to enter, but trust us, the view is worth every minute of it.

Just as popular is Gabaedo (T. 02-423-4542), a Japanese-inspired café hidden on the second floor of an old commercial building. Many customers liken the place, with its vintage Japanese decor, to a visit to Kyoto itself. This writer ordered the sakurambo tea and panna cotta. He was impressed by both.

In the mood for something a bit more Korean? Head to Another Sunday (T. 0507-1317-1031), a tiny, vintage-inspired café serving creative takes on traditional Korean rice cakes, including a delightful steamed white rice cake, or seolgi, topped with cream.

The artistically minded should head to MOCA (T. 02-421-2221), a basement café that doubles as an art gallery.

Best days still ahead?

Songnidan-gil is hot, and it’s going to get hotter. Though you currently have to walk five or 10 minutes from Jamsil Station to reach the neighborhood, a subway station for Line 9 will open in October at Bangi Intersection, right at the entrance of Songnidan-gil. The subway will also connect the place more fully with other places in Gangnam, so expect bigger crowds and more energy later in the year. As the owner of one café said, “Many commercial spaces trying different things are popping up, and with the subway set to open, I think the neighborhood will gradually grow more lively.”

Editor’s Pick: Ririrhim

Hidden in a quiet alley off Songnidan-gil’s main road, Ririrhim is a design studio, workshop and concept store offering handicrafts and artworks with a nature theme, including handmade candles, postcards and canvas tote bags. They also host classes on candle making and other crafts. T. 010-5425-5683

More info

GO> Seokchon Station (Line 8), Exit 2. Walk three blocks, turn left and you’re there.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

The southeastern city of Gumi is best known for its many electronics factories and as the birthplace of late President Park Chung-hee. Less known is that the city — or at least the part of it between Gumi Station and Geomosan Provincial Park, home to one of the most scenic peaks of the southeast — has begun transforming into a destination in its own right. Attracted by low rents and the proximity of the park, young entrepreneurs are moving into the area, setting up trendy, individualist cafés, restaurants and shops catering to a younger, hipper crowd. As many of these establishment can be found on or around Geomosan-gil Road, some have taken to calling the area “Geumnidan-gil,” a play on Seoul’s famously hip Gyeongnidan-gil district.

The easy way around

High and wide, Geumosan Mountain looms over Gumi and the Nakdonggang River valley like a slumbering giant. Unlike many of Korea’s great mountains, which are so integrated into larger ranges that it’s often hard to tell where one mountain ends and the next begins, Geomosan is its own entity, rising steeply from the valley floor to reach a height of 976 meters. The poetically minded have lauded its rugged cliffs and thick forests for ages, listing the mountain among the eight greatest scenic spots of southeast Korea. In 1970, it became Korea’s first provincial park, earning it a special place in the nation’s environmental protection movement.

Steep, rocky and high, Geomosan may not be easy to climb (more on that later) but the mountain itself is surprisingly accessible, the park being just a 30 minute walk from Gumi Station. This helps make it a popular leisure destination. Some 3 million people visit a year, including many hikers and picnickers from Daegu, Busan and farther afield.

To give visitors a less strenuous opportunity to enjoy the mountain’s beauty, park authorities created the so-called “Geumosan Ollegil,” an easy walking trail that circumnavigates the scenic reservoir at the foot of the massif. Some 2.7 kilometers long, the trail takes just 40 minutes to complete. Though lakeside wooden decks account for most of the trail, one section climbs a steep hill to a scenic overlook where you can enjoy panoramic views of the mountain and reservoir.

If you’re going to tackle Geumosan itself, set aside at least three or four hours. While not technically challenging, the hike involves long climbs up stairs and slogs up rocky trails you would’t want to descend in the dark or after the rain. It’s not K2, or even Bukhansan National Park, for that matter, but it’s not Namsan Mountain, either.

To make life easier, a cable car takes you roughly halfway up the mountain to a Buddhist temple called Haeunsa and the 28-meter-high Dehye Waterfall, the latter one of the mountain’s most popular attractions, especially in the hot summer. The red cable cars, several decades old, are a pleasantly vintage experience in themselves. Adrenaline junkies may wish to walk the short but treacherous cliffside trail from Haeunsa to Doseongul Cave. The narrow pathway,  carved into the cliffs in 1937, brings to mind similarly nausea-inducing walks in China, Spain and elsewhere.

Sheltering just below Geomosan’s peak is Yaksaam, a small Buddhist hermitage with a history that stretches back to the ancient Silla Kingdom. The hermitage’s most striking element is its bell pavilion, perched atop a narrow granite spire and reached by a narrow footbridge suspended over the chasm. Near the hermitage you’ll find some lovely Buddhist reliefs hewn into the cliffs as well.

Gumi goes a bit hipster

Not so long ago, what is now Geumnidan-gil was something of a slum, a neglected neighborhood literally on the other side of the tracks. The creation of the Geumosan Ollegil, however, led to an influx of people, an influx that in turn drew entrepreneurs, especially young ones. “The area behind the station had a lot of fortune tellers, and compared to the downtown commercial area, it was largely run-down and residential, like how Gyeongju’s Hwangnidan-gil was,” says Kim Ga-wi, who for the last three years has run Sopung (190-4, Geumisan-ro), a shop selling ceramics and vintage clothing and goods. “But restaurants and cafés have popped up like mushrooms after the rain, rents have climbed and the neighborhood itself has got some life, it seems.”

Compared to similar neighborhoods such as Seoul’s Gyeongnidan-gil or Gyeongju’s Hwangnidan-gil, Gumi’s little slice of hipster heaven is very much a work in progress. This is part of its charm, actually — Geumnidan-gil is still a living neighborhood, where the old and new coexist, where the young couples waiting to get into a fabulously Instaready restaurant stand in front of the weather-beaten fishing boat tied to the wall of a neighbor’s home. It’s also very warm and friendly, with plenty of opportunities to strike up a conversation.

The restaurants tend toward younger tastes, with several good Japanese homestyle establishments. One of the best is Asoko (T. 054-443-2112), a beautifully minimalist space with white walls and wood furniture where the signature dish is the Hawaiian Roll Katsu, a Japanese pork cutlet and grilled sausage served with rosé sauce, rice, a slice of pineapple and a lovely violet flower blossom. Also Instagrammable is Baeki Udong (T. 010-3397-5362), a branch of the famous Yeonnam-dong eatery, where you can enjoy a masterfully prepared bowl of Japanese noodles in a space that looks as if it were just teleported from Kyoto.

Other options include — but are not limited to — Corea Refreshment Stand (T. 054-456-8526), or Corea Gyeongyangsik, which serves tonkatsu, avocado salad, bulgogi spaghetti and other dishes in picturesque surroundings; brunch café Deux Ran (T. 054-455-5193); Western-Japanese-Korean restaurant Noir Sikdang (T. 010-7478-8791); and Blossom (T. 054-457-3330), an American homestyle joint serving chicken fried steaks, San Francisco-style cioppino and Maryland crab cakes.

As you might expect, Geumnidan-gil has a thriving café scene, too. A local institution is Coffee Salon (T. 010-2014-4658), a roastery that also hosts art exhibits and musical performances, conducts flea markets and even publishes an independent magazine. “People who love coffee and people who love culture become my regular customers,” says owner Park Ho-yeong. “I’m working to turn this place into a cultural complex for Gumi, with specialty coffees at its heart.”

Another fine café is Coffee Lounge (T. 054-458-4081), just across the street from Coffee Salon. Try the Dutch Sunrise, a cup of cold brewed coffee atop fresh orange and lemon, served with a giant ball of ice.

More Info

STAY> Gumi has its share of moderately priced hotels and motels. If you’d like to stay in Geomosan Provincial Park itself, try the Hotel Geumosan (T. 054-450-4000).

GO> KTX trains to Gumi depart Seoul Station (travel time: 1 hour, 17 minutes). Be aware, however, that the KTX stops at Gimcheon-Gumi Station. You’ll need to take a 40-minute connecting bus to Gumi Station.

You could take a direct train from Seoul Station to Gumi Station, but this is a three-hour trip.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

The Dongho Bridge and Hangang riverside provide Seoulites a space for rest and relaxation.

A riverside neighborhood comes into its own

Wedged between Dongdaemun-gu and Yongsan-gu and nestled right at the mouth of the Han River’s Jungnancheon tributary, Seongdong-gu is not one of the most recognizable district names in Seoul. To many Seoulites, Oksu Station and Geumho Station are simply mile markers along the morning commute. Though Oksu Station’s raised dome-covered platform, a local icon, is easily visible in passing on the highway, few have taken it upon themselves to explore the neighborhood below. Recently, however, grassroots efforts to rejuvenate what was for decades a sleepy residential corner of Seoul have created a young and laid-back neighborhood feel, a vibe that is drawing more and more visitors through social media buzz.

In between sunrises and sunsets

Local photographers know that the peaks bookending Seongdong-gu, Eungbongsan and Maebongsan, offer spectacular sunrises and sunsets with clear views of the Hangang River and Seoul skyline. For early birds, making the pre-dawn trip to Maebongsan is well worth the effort. The slopes of Seongdong-gu’s mountains lead to Hangang Park and Dalmaji-bong Park, with their outdoor activities galore, and the neighborhoods of Oksu-dong and Geumho-dong, with their independent cafés, bottle shops, eateries and fine dining.

Seeming custom-made with date courses specifically in mind, the area is an ideal place to spend some time in the sun with friends along the Hangang River and retreat to a nearby pub for evening drinks. Choose a sport — basketball, badminton, bike riding — or non-sport — kite flying, sunbathing — at Hangang Park or Dalmaji-bong Park. You can even bask in the serenity of traditional Korean architecture at Mitasa Temple, located immediately outside of Oksu Station.

The Hangang has a basketball court and other sports facilities.

Darak Oksu

Local city governments have been launching community revitalization plans to make more efficient use of outdated city infrastructure in eco-friendly ways. One such project, a collaboration of Seoul and Seongdong-gu, has come to fruition under Line 3’s Oksu Station. Opening just this past April, Darak Oksu, as it is called, is reminiscent of a Hobbit hole. A “free garden” of vegetation covers an earthen mound housing a children’s book café and open facility for community events. At the time of writing this article, the seedlings were still aspiring to become full, lush foliage, but they are growing with the help of a mirror-like awning designed to harvest sunlight from dim conditions. With the coming summer weather, the landscaping will soon start to take hold, turning into a pleasant urban garden.

Considering its close proximity with Hangang Park, Darak Oksu serves as a pleasant centerpiece for a hub of leisure activities. When asked for food recommendations, locals point to a modest street outside of Exit 5. It starts with a popular street food vender serving a constant stream of customers and continues down past the elementary school. A bustling Italian-style pizzeria, a wine bar, barbecue joints, chicken and beer, and ddeokbokki. A diverse crowd sits in Bean Plateau (T. 02-2299-5758), many resting from a day spent at the park. The newly opened downstairs features antique upholstered furniture, traditional Western deep green paneling, and a collection of knickknacks and photos that are simultaneously impressive and comforting.

Bean Plateau owner Bhyun Mi-Sook is satisfied with the recent transformation. A resident herself, she predicts the neighborhood will continue to be charming and peaceful, its narrow streets and overpass preventing greater traffic volume or excessive development. The changes that have taken place, she says, were requested by residents themselves. “Until about two years ago, business operations closed early and the streets were dark. Businesses were asked to stay open later to keep the streets bright.” This made it easier to walk about at night, drawing the community out to socialize into the late evenings. And so began a virtuous cycle of community-building through local business.

The area around Singeumho Station boasts three independent bookstores, including the charming Library of Proust.

Slow Steps is a bakery with a free spirit.

A new generation of entrepreneurs

Chang Jinwoo, a chef and one of the architects of Itaewon’s hip Gyeongnidan-gil Street’s amazing success, has set his eyes on Geumho-dong’s so-called “Geumnidan-gil,” a budding area of trendy restaurants, cafés and bars. Chang has already opened three restaurants in Geumho-dong, and lesser known establishments nearby have appreciated a boost from Chang’s fame by geographic association.

Geumnidan-gil stretches from Singeumho Station Exit 3 down to Geumnam Market, and all along the way bold new ideas snuggle in right alongside traditional down-home Korean neighborhood fixtures: a sun-bleached barber shop, a newly opened pastel florist with a sign advertising floral arrangement and baking classes, whole fried chicken behind a glass display, a boldly painted Vietnamese noodle restaurant, elementary school students focused on their water colors in the window of an airy art hagwon, fine Italian dining and wine, a bustling steamed bun corner vendor.

Favorable real estate conditions have made the Geumho-dong and Oksu-dong area highly sought-after by twenty- and thirty-somethings, mostly newlyweds and growing families. This influx yielded a considerable demand for comfortable places to relax and eat. Young local entrepreneurs took it upon themselves to create the kinds of spaces and services they wanted to see emerge in their own community.

In Geumnam Market, an entrepreneurial program sponsored by the city government, provided 28-year-old Jeff Cho with training and a grant to start his own shop, Mazinga Dark (T. 070-4046-9200). This pub in the center of the market has nearby merchants hooked on the baked chicken.

Up the street, Bottle Sauna (T. 02-2232-8689) imports over 60 varieties of beer selected by its owner, Gimm Gunn, who opened the bottle shop in May 2017. Curiosity has gotten the best of the residents. Folks initially shy away from the unfamiliar, but Gimm offers friendly suggestions to help beginners choose. “Business started slow,” he explains, “Many came by just to take a peek. They have since become regulars and good friends of the store.” In keeping with the neighborhood ambiance, Gimm encourages a slower beer culture, where the goal is to savor, not to forget.

In April, Ella Hyunjin Kim opened Slow Steps (T. 010-2715-4651), a bright and welcoming bakery next to Geumho Elementary School, to remind us to feel happiness and calm in daily moments. Like others moving to Geumho in recent years, she arrived in Geumho-dong as a newlywed. “I chose Geumho-dong based almost entirely on the location; I was looking for somewhere easy to commute from. I didn’t really consider the neighborhood feel. After warming up and exploring a little, I was pleasantly surprised.” She hopes that her shop reinforces the existing relaxed vibes. Even the menu is a free spirit — a base of permanent favorites and a peripheral rotation of items reflecting the mood of the day.

A few steps away, beautiful flower arrangements have adorned the window display of City Bloom (T. 02-2233-1820) since August 2017. “Older locals told me this street would be too slow for business. But actually, customers are on the rise and there are regulars now,” says Jooyeong Son. “There are plenty of things nearby to attract young people, like the bakery and all of the bookstores around.”

Independent bookstores are a local pastime on Geumnidan-gil. A black cat basks in the sun in the window of The Library of Proust (T. 010-8988-2682), a small store overflowing with used books and books from smaller publishers. Seosilli (T. 010-4597-1558) reflects the same love for literature, with volumes filling the shelving that covers the shop floor to ceiling. And guests of all ages come to Kamome Picture Books (T. 010-6510-5065), its bright blue awning featuring its namesake seagull calling particularly young readers to flip through its limitless collection of colorful illustrated books.

More than just vendors, the aforementioned shops are members and hosts of a new and growing community. Many offer regular or one-day classes, such as the bakery and florist, or weekly gatherings, like Kamome Picture Books. Each one of them a piece of Geumho-dong’s genuine character.

Enjoy a craft beer with views at Chuck’s Tap House.

Coffee Theo serves a proper cup of coffee near the Geumnam Market.

Take your time

Sunup to sundown, there is plenty for everyone to do and see in Geumho-dong and Oksu-dong. Make a day of it and allow time for unplanned tangents and lengthy breaks. Use the time to unwind, experience the sights and flavors, tour the winding roads, discover a new book and chat with the store owners. But be sure to check the opening hours before heading out — after all, it is still a sleepy neighborhood.

Lucia not only sells flower arrangements, but also hosts one-day classes.

Written by Tessa Franklin

Photographed by Dylan Goldby

Countryside charms and nature’s beauty await along the banks of the Seomjingang River

Gazing southeast, the sun rises slowly but surely over the horizon. The Seomjingang River’s pristine waters reflect the morning light and draws the eyes, meandering through the mountain ranges of the Jeollanam-do and Gyeongsangnam-do provinces. Another beautiful day begins in Hadong.
Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do’s westernmost county, has a wide variety of offerings to those who seek it. Nestled between Jirisan Mountain and the Seomjingang River, Hadong has a beautiful mix of water, plains and mountainous terrain. From this picturesque landscape comes an abundance of sights, smells, textures and flavors to satisfy the senses and soothe the soul. This, along with the friendly people and a laid-back countryside atmosphere makes Hadong a place where you’ll definitely want to take it slow.
Also known as the Korean Alps, Hadong’s diverse terrain has something for everyone all year round. The warmth of spring brings a wide variety of flowers in the region. Visitors flock to stroll among the colorful blossoms and take in their fragrance. For the more adventurous, majestic Jirisan and the surrounding peaks make for great places to hike and explore. Autumn and winter are particularly beautiful in these mountains, bringing fiery colors and sparkling white vistas, respectively. The rice fields of Pyeongsa-ri and Agyang plain turn from striking green to golden yellow hues during harvest time.

Pine trees are reflected on the pristine waters of Dongjeong Lake on the Agyang Plain.

Green tea heaven

While Boseong and Jeju maybe the first places that come to mind when it comes to Korean green tea, Hadong was actually the nation’s first tea producer. Hadong green tea is wild, dating back over a thousand years ago to the Silla kingdom where monks planted the Chinese tea plants around temple areas. The wild tea spread to other areas in Hwagae and Agyang-myeon, and can be found growing in the valleys to this day. Even in this era of modern machinery, Hadong prides itself on producing high-grade teas using time-honored and traditional processing methods. Green tea is celebrated at plantations and museums around the county, such as the Maeam Tea Culture Museum and the Hadong Tea Culture Center. There are also numerous teahouses along the road to Ssangyesa Temple that offer green tea products and experiences. The biggest green tea celebration, however, happens during the Hadong Wild Tea Cultural Festival every May. Festival participants can get a taste of Hadong’s green tea culture through hands-on experiences, musical performances and more.
One particularly interesting place to experience Hadong’s tea culture is a restaurant called Magic of Tea Leaf. Located in Hwagae-myeon across from Ssangyesa Temple’s entrance, Magic of Tea Leaf serves up tea in very creative ways. Meals typically start with tea seed oil, honey and green tea flower wine. Unique side dishes include green tea Korean pancakes, green tea apple pickles, and green tea sauces. Their most popular dishes include steamed samgyeopsal topped with fried green tea leaves and the crunchy fried acorn jelly bibimbap. If you’re just looking for a nice cup of tea, they also have a tea lounge with a great view of the Hwagae Valley. Though Hadong is filled with old-world charm, places like Magic of Tea Leaf add a refreshing, modern twist to the countryside landscape.

Wild tea plants grow abundantly in the Hwagae Valley.

All you need at Hwagae Market

Hadong’s Hwagae Market is one of the biggest traditional markets in Korea. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hadong County, attracting visitors from all over the country and the world. Dating back to Joseon (1392–1910), this vibrant market has inspired songs, novels, films and even K-pop references. The iconic song by Korean singer Jo Yeong-nam — who actually has a statue in the market) — goes, “Even if it’s just a country bazaar, it has everything I need.”
Strolling through the market, the song seems to speak the truth. Here you will find stall after stall of every Korean mountain root and herb imaginable. Browse a bit more and you will find fish, seafood and agricultural products from the surrounding region, as well as restaurants serving local delicacies and, of course, green tea. Other products such as ceramics, cookware, trinkets and handmade tools are also in abundance. One particularly interesting part of the market to this writer is the blacksmith’s shop, whose master craftsman has been making tools by hand for decades.
Every spring, Hwagae becomes even more charming as the cherry blossoms turn the surrounding landscape into a snowy white. The road from Hwagae Market to Ssangyesa is known as the Simni Cherry Blossom Road. This dreamy stretch of road is lined with the the delicate trees that signal that spring has indeed arrived.

A blacksmith makes tools by hand at Hwagae Market.

Ssangyesa Temple

Past the cherry blossom trees and the wild green tea fields along the Simni road, you will find the ancient temple of Ssangyesa. The temple was founded in the year 722 by Sambeop and Daebi, disciples of the great scholar-monk Uisang. According to legend, the two disciples were guided to this location by a Jiri mountain spirit, who took the form of a tiger. The name “Ssanggyesa” means twin-stream monastery. Notable treasures in the temple include the enshrined remains of Yuckcho, a patriarch of Zen Buddhism, as well as a monument dedicated to meditation master Jingam, also known as Republic of Korea National Treasure number 47.
Ssangyesa is also a central figure in the history of tea in Korea. One story says that the monk Jingam brought tea plant seeds back after returning from his studies in China. He planted the seeds around the temple and in the foothills of Jiri mountain, which resulted in the beginning of tea production in South Korea. There are several different stories regarding the actual events that took place, but there is no doubt that the Korean tea tradition is literally rooted in the fertile land around Ssangyesa Temple.

Two monks enjoy spring at Hwaeomsa Temple in neighboring Gurye.

A fine neighbor

A few hundred meters from the Hwagae Market, one can cross the border into the next county and the next province. Jeollanam-do’s Gurye County, Hadong’s neighbor to the northeast, is similarly alluring. Despite being in another province altogether with a different dialect, Gurye’s proximity to Hadong makes it an essential part of any trip to this area. This farming town also has its share of attractions, one of which is the the annual Sansuyu Festival. This spring flower festival celebrates the bright yellow sansuyu, or cornus fruit that grows all over the province. Gurye is also home to the picturesque temples of Hwaeomsa and Cheon-Eunsa, both wonderful places where Korean spirituality and tranquility are exemplified.

Afternoon tea is prepared at Magic of Tea Leaf’s tea lounge.

Info

Hadong has a wide range of accommodations, from resort hotels to pensions, motels and even temple stays. Hadong’s countryside location does not make it any less accessible to online booking sites, making it very convenient for travelers.

Hadong’s local specialty is jaecheop, freshwater clams. There are jaecheop restaurants all over Hadong serving the popular jaecheopguk soup or jaecheophoe salad. Also try Magic of Tea Leaf in Hwagae-myeon, which serves unique, tea infused dishes.

The intercity bus from Nambu Terminal will take you to Hwagae Terminal in Hadong. From there, taxis and buses will be available, but the best exploration is done on foot.

Written and photographed by Roy Cruz