At Jarasum, Korean-American jazz phenom Grace Kelly debuts in the land of her ancestors

“Grace Kelly plays with intelligence, wit and feeling,” said legendary trumpeter Wynton Marsalis. “She has a great amount of natural ability and the ability to adapt that is the hallmark of a first-class jazz musician.”

The saxophonist, singer and songwriter now brings that intelligence, wit and feeling to the Jarasum Jazz Festival, Korea’s premier celebration of jazz, accompanied by pianist/keyboardist Devon Yesberger, bassist Julia Adamy and drummer Ross Pederson, who form with Kelly the Grace Kelly Brooklyn Band. Jarasum represents not only the musician’s official Korean debut, but her Asian debut, too, making it doubly significant.

The festival coincides with the release in October of her latest album, “GO TiME: Brooklyn 2,” available by pre-order now through her website. She says, “We will be playing a lot of originals and ‘Gracified’ cover songs like ‘Miss You’ from my new albums, GO TiME: Brooklyn and GO TiME: Brooklyn 2.”

To put it mildly, Kelly is looking forward to performing at Jarasum.

“I’m very, very excited to be coming to Korea! This is my debut performance with my band in Korea, and I have heard so much about the Jarasum Festival over the years,” she says. “I’m pumped to be on the main stage presenting my music to everyone.”

A regular on the “Late Show with Stephen Colbert” band, Jon Batiste and Stay Human, and featured in Amazon’s Emmy-nominated TV show “Bosch,” CNN.com, Glamour Magazine’s Top Ten College Women 2011, Forbes, Billboard, Huffington Post and NPR, Kelly is a rising star in the American jazz scene, lauded for her genre-bending zest and onstage charisma. Though she’s only 26, it seems she’s been around forever. Called the “finest young saxophonist on the scene today” by no less than David Sanborn, the prodigy wrote her first song at 7 years old, recorded her first CD at 12, orchestrated and performed her original composition with the Boston Pops Orchestra at 14, and performed at President Obama’s inauguration at 16.

As a bandleader, Grace has performed over 800 concerts in over 30 countries in notable venues such as the Hollywood Bowl, Kennedy Center, Carnegie Hall and Symphony Hall and festivals such as Montreal, Newport, and Montreux. Grace has performed or recorded with Harry Connick Jr., Wynton Marsalis, Dave Brubeck, Steve Martin, Tina Fey, Martin Short, Maya Rudolph, Emma Stone, Lin Manuel, Questlove, Esperanza Spalding, Lee Konitz, Phil Woods, Ron Carter, David Sanborn, Marcus Miller, Dianne Reeves, Dee Dee Bridgewater, Huey Lewis and Gloria Estefan, just to name a few. Fans even voted her 10th CD, “Trying To Figure It Out,” the No. 2 Jazz Album of The Year in a readers poll by Downbeat Magazine in 2016.

An artist returns to her roots

Kelly’s official Korean debut represents more than a career milestone. It also allows the artist, a Korean-American, an opportunity to explore Seoul and reconnect with her heritage. “It’s particularly interesting to me because I’m Korean American and eager to connect with my Korean roots and learn about the culture and people right now in 2018,” she says. “I also love Korean food! Bibimbap is one of my favorites. I will be taking in all the sights, sounds, foods and experiences.”

Not only will she be taking in all those experiences, but she’ll be documenting them, too. She plans to shoot impromptu videos for her weekly video series, “Grace Kelly PopUPs,” for Facebook, Instagram and YouTube, sharing her Korean experiences with her online fans all around the world.

While in Seoul, Kelly will attend Seoul Fashion Week, one of Asia’s hottest fashion events. “I have a deep love for fashion and look forward to this inspiration,” she says. “I love expressing myself visually with all sorts of colors.”

Always keen to share with fans, she’ll be video blogging Seoul Fashion Week. She may do a bit of impromptu performing, too, should the opportunity arise.

More Info

Grace Kelly will be performing at the Jarasum Jazz Festival on Oct. 14. For more info about the festival, including ticketing information, visit www.jarasumjazz.com. For more information about Kelly, including info on purchasing albums and social media links, visit www.gracekellymusic.com.

Written by SEOUL
Photographs courtesy of Grace Kelly

The ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) Culture House is celebrating its first year in operation.

The ACH opened in Busan’s Haeundae district on Sept. 1, 2017. Operated by the Korea Foundation, the complex was a follow-up project to the 2014 ASEAN-Republic of Korea Commemorative Summit, which was also held in Busan. Speaking at its opening ceremony, which was attended by 500 guests including such luminaries as Secretary General of ASEAN Le Luong Minh and Philippine Secretary of Foreign Affairs Alan Peter Cayetano, Korean Foreign Minister Kang Kyung-wha said, “The establishment of the ASEAN Culture House in Korea is the first of its kind among ASEAN’s dialogue partners, and it will mark a significant milestone toward a closer relationship with ASEAN, which the Korean government seeks as a priority.”

The eye-catching building pays tribute to the traditional architecture of Southeast Asia with its prominent roof, eaves and terrace. The architecture also symbolizes the ACH’s vision of enhancing a local understanding of the many cultures and societies of ASEAN’s member states and promoting mutual awareness and friendship between the people of Korea and the peoples of ASEAN.

To execute its vision, the ACH aims to provide Koreans with accurate information about ASEAN and its member states. It also seeks to deepen mutual understanding between Koreans and local expats from ASEAN nations. The complex initiates cultural and academic networks between Korea and ASEAN, too, and functions as a community center for ASEAN missions in Korea. Lastly, it also promotes ASEAN-related diplomatic cooperation in central and local government.

With this in mind, the ACH hosts exhibitions of art from ASEAN member states, cultural performances, film festivals and cultural festivals, maintains educational spaces, invites lecturers and promotes person-to-person cultural exchanges.

Multifunctional and hi-tech

No effort was spared in making the ASEAN Culture House an ideal space for cultural exchange. The four-floor complex boasts dedicated spaces for exhibitions, performances, lectures and classes. To enhance learning and create an immersive experience, designers incorporated the latest in information technology, including virtual reality.

The immersion begins right from the high, well-lit Community Hall, a lobby where visitors can sit, relax and reflect on what they’ve learned. Also on the ground floor is the Special Exhibition Gallery, which hosts themed exhibitions from ASEAN members states as well as ones to commemorate important events in Korea-ASEAN relations. Past exhibits have included a commemorative exhibit of clothing from ASEAN nations and Korea to celebrate the first year anniversary of ASEAN Culture House, a photo exhibit on ASEAN lives and an exhibit of works by young Vietnamese and Korean artists to celebrate 25 years of diplomatic ties between Seoul and Hanoi.

The ground floor houses the ASEAN Cultural Heritage VR Experience Room, too. This is where you can use virtual reality technology to experience and explore important historical monuments and UNESCO World Heritage Sites in ASEAN member states such as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, Indonesia’s Borobudur Temple and Myanmar’s temples of Bagan.

The second floor houses the Permanent Exhibition Gallery. Here you’ll find fascinating displays of arts, crafts and media from all of ASEAN’s member states. The embassies of member states donated many of the items on display. There’s also a seminar room for academic and cultural programs, including lectures by ASEAN cultural figures and researchers. The seminar room also hosts classes on the arts and crafts of ASEAN nations.

A dedicated space for cultural exchange programs is on the third floor. Children, youth, college students and multicultural families come here to learn and promote an understanding of one another’s culture. For instance, on the day of this writer’s visit, the foreign-born spouses of local multicultural families were learning to make Korean dishes such as soybean paste stew.

The ACH hosts demonstrations of the performing arts at the ACH Hall on the fourth floor. Music and dance troupes from ASEAN member states perform here. The hall has held various shows, including a recital by the young star pianist Poom Prommachart of Thailand to celebrate the 60th anniversary of diplomatic ties between Seoul and Bangkok and the Korea-ASEAN Flute Festival, featuring 44 traditional flutists from Korea and ASEAN member states.

The hall also hosts screenings of films from ASEAN nations. As these films are not widely available in Korea, this is a real treat for film buffs.

Understanding One Another, Becoming Friends

ASEAN Culture House Director-General Ham Seunghoon hopes to turn complex into hub of international exchange

“By promoting academic programs and cultural exchanges pertaining to ASEAN such as exhibits and performances aimed at diverse audiences, from local residents to immigrants from ASEAN nations and students of all ages, we wish to turn the ASEAN Culture House into a platform of international exchange where we can introduce ASEAN nations, which Koreans still don’t know especially well, and help Korea and ASEAN learn about each other and become friends.”

Ham Seunghoon, Director-General of  the ASEAN Culture House, sees the complex as a meeting place, where the locally born and those from places further afield can come, mingle and learn from one another. He hopes it could become something of a salon, too. He says, “We are planning programs for multicultural families from ASEAN nations in conjunction with Busan’s multicultural family support centers so that the ACH can help Koreans understand ASEAN better and play the role of a sarangbang — the living room of a traditional Korean house — for expats from ASEAN countries and Koreans.”

In its first year, the ACH has accomplished a lot, says Ham, noting its long list of exhibits and performances, including his personal favorite, the Korea-ASEAN Flute Festival, which brought the audience of 250 together through the music of Korea and ASEAN. Still, he’s not resting on his laurels. “To mark the first anniversary of the ACH, we plan to host even richer exhibits, performances and educational programs as a hub of reciprocal international exchange with ASEAN,” he says. “We are currently preparing for the second half of 2018 a special exhibit on traditional and modern games from ASEAN, a project to invite fans of Hallyu from ASEAN nations and a commemorative event to mark 60 years of diplomatic ties between Korea and Thailand.”

More info

162, Jwadong-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan

Open Tue- Fri 10 A.M. – 6 P.M.,

Sat-Sun 10 A.M. – 7 P.M.

Closed Mondays and public holidays

www.ach.or.kr

T: 82-51-775-2000

Written and photographed by SEOUL

Language is closely interwined with our understanding of our own bodies. In the days of old, for instance, Koreans believed the heart to be the seat of the mind. Though the coming of modern medicine conclusively proved the brain to be the center of thought, the Korean language still reflects the traditional understanding with expressions such as “My heart has changed” for “I’ve changed my mind.” A change in understanding, meanwhile, may necessitate the coining of words for new concepts and discoveries.

The exhibition “I Am the Body: The Anatomy of Hangeul in the Enlightenment Period,” hosted by the National Hangeul Museum through Oct. 14, explores how Koreans traditionally viewed the human body and how the introduction of modern medicine from the West in the late 19th century fundamentally altered that view. More specifically, it looks at how many now familiar Korean terms for the parts of the human anatomy came into being at the start of the modern era. Through language, the exhibit demonstrates how Koreans adopted Western medicine, including Western anatomy, and how that radical shift in understanding transformed the lives of the people.

Kim’s Anatomy

“I Am the Body” takes as its starting point the publishing in 1906 of “Anatomy,” a Korean translation of “Practical Anatomy,” a Japanese anatomy book widely read at the time. Translated by Kim Pil-sun, a student at Korea’s imperial medical school, under the direction of Dr. Oliver R. Avison, an American missionary doctor, “Anatomy” proved groundbreaking, providing Korean students with their first text to learn modern anatomy. The textbook also helped revolutionize the way Koreans thought about the human body, including the words they used to describe it.

On display are 213 artifacts from 18 institutions, including the three volumes of “Anatomy.” To provide a narrative structure, the exhibit is divided into three sections. The first, “A New Era in Knowledge of the Human Body,” recounts how the traditional Korean view of the human body differed from that of the West and how Koreans came to embrace the Western view, with emphasis placed on the role played by the Jejungwon, the imperial hospital-cum-medical school and one of Korea’s first centers of modern medicine. The second, “Redefining the Human Body,” looks at the transformation of the Korean language as it relates to the human body from the 15th century, when the Hangeul alphabet was invented, to the late 19th century, when Korea opened up to the West.

The third, “The First Anatomy Textbook in Hangeul,” features a documentary video on how Kim and Avison published “Anatomy.” Indeed, they overcame much adversity to do it. Avison’s first attempt, a Korean translation of “Gray’s Anatomy,” ended when the manuscript disappeared with the translator. His second attempt also ended in failure when fire destroyed Kim’s retranslation of “Gray’s Anatomy.” It was on the third attempt that Kim and Avison finally succeeded.

The items on display prove fascinating, shedding light on an understanding of the human body often at odds with that of the present day. An old text on forensic medicine and a postmortem from a 1902 murder in Gangneung, for instance, not only reveal how doctors examined bodies at a time when Koreans considered dissection to be an unholy outrage, but also teach us how Koreans referred to the many parts of the body in the days before the introduction of modern anatomical science. Interactive digital displays, meanwhile, demonstrate the development over the centuries of Korean words for the parts of the body. Old medical implements, acupuncture needles and historical books and photographs are on display as well.

All things Hangeul

Opened on Oct. 9 — Hangeul Day — of 2014, the National Hangeul Museum is a rarity — an entire museum dedicated to the national script. That such a space exists in Korea, however, should come as no surprise. Koreans are rightly proud of Hangeul, a beautiful, easy-to-learn writing system scientifically created using systematic linguistic principles in the 15th century. The innovative alphabet has boosted literacy, promoted digitalization and even inspired artists and designers.

The architecturally spectacular museum, located between the landmark National Museum of Korea and Yongsan Family Park, boasts exhibition spaces, lecture halls, a children’s museum, a café and other facilities. The building itself brings together the sky, the earth and people, embracing the philosophy of Hangeul, the fundamental building blocks of which reflect those elements.

The museum explores the history of Hangeul, from its creation in 1443 to the present day. It examines efforts to disseminate and modernize the alphabet, sharing with visitors artifacts such as Korea’s first Hangeul typewriter and old advertisements using the Hangeul script. Attempts to globalize the alphabet and digitalize it are looked at, too.

The Hangeul Museum hosts educational programs as well. To promote the Hangeul alphabet and Korean culture, visitors can take part in a variety of programs, including performances of the Bongsan Mask Dance, cooking classes using a historical Korean cookbook, learning traditional book binding and painting using the Hangeul script. The onsite Hangeul Learning Center, meanwhile, allows visitors to learn the basics of the Hangeul alphabet in a fun, easy way.

More Info

Guided tours in English provided on Wednesdays at 2:00 p.m.

Entry: Free

Hours: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Mon.–Fri., Sun.), 10 a.m.–9 p.m. (Sat.).

www.hangeul.go.kr

Ichon Station (Line 4, Gyeongui-Jungang Line), Exit 2

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

“In spite of her rich heritage, Jeju is not a place for excessive recall of the days gone. It is a lively place where the present days are important. It is a place for action and reflection, and the position of the island as a stone raft in the middle of the seas, between the sea of the east and the Pacific Ocean, close to Japan and not far from China, gives to her a lot of possibilities. In the difficult politics of today, as tensions between North and South seem without solution, Jeju offers a place for mediation.”

Held at the International Convention Center Jeju from June 26 to 28, the Jeju Forum for Peace and Prosperity 2018 focused on reengineering peace in Asia, a task as critical as ever in the wake of dramatic diplomatic developments in the region, including summits between the South and North Korean leaders and, perhaps most dramatic of all, the North Korean leader and the U.S. President. And as acclaimed novelist and Nobel laureate J. M. G. Le Clézio said in a prerecorded keynote address, the island of Jeju was an ideal space in which to reflect upon recent events and plot a path forward. This year’s forum boasted a slate of inspiring speakers such as renowned economist and writer Paul Krugman, UNESCO general-director Audrey Azoulay, former East Timorese President and Nobel Peace Prize laureate José Ramos-Horta, former U.N. Secretary General Ban Ki-moon and former Japanese Prime Minister Yasuo Fukuda. Though much of the discussion was global, the forum tackled local history and culture, too. Two sessions in particular brought together artists, critics and other cultural figures to discuss peace, reconciliation and healing as Jeju marks the 70th anniversary of the April 3 Incident, one of the most tragic events in modern Korean history.

Peace blossoms even as tensions grow

The Jeju Forum 2018 came at a time of great hope but also intense fear. Though much of the discussion at this year’s forum focused on the recent summits between South Korean President Moon Jae-in and North Korean leader Kim Jong-un and between Kim and U.S. President Donald Trump, the acrimonious G7 summit and concerns of a coming trade war weighed heavily on participants, too.

In a special lecture in the morning of June 27, economist Paul Krugman voiced concern about the future of a world economy facing a U.S.-led trade war. “There is a real risk, a very serious risk of trade war, something that would substantially reduce the amount of global trade,” he said. “We might see the world trade falling by around two-thirds, which would bring it back to roughly where it was in the 1950s.”

The collapse in global trade could make the world poorer by two to three percentage points, with smaller economies particularly vulnerable. Krugman noted that unlike in a real war, a trade war can have no winners. “A trade war is more like an arms race, in which everybody wastes a lot of resources and ends up in the same place, except just poorer. Everybody ends up being worse off,” he said.

Despite the looming trade war, optimism — albeit sometimes guarded — colored the forum. In the opening ceremony, Prime Minister Lee Nak-yon expressed hope for progress on the Korean Peninsula. “It is hard to imagine [North Korean leader Kim Jong-un] choosing to return to the state of escalating military tensions,” he said. “As far as I see it, Kim understands that the economic prosperity of his country is closely linked with the North’s resolve to denuclearize.”

Jeju governor Won Hee-ryong went as far as to offer the island as a venue for follow-up talks with North Korea. “I would like to propose that Jeju hold a follow-up summit between the United States and North Korea for the ultimate goal of denuclearizing North Korea,” he said in a welcoming address, calling Jeju “the perfect place for talks to discuss dismantlement of the Cold War structure on the Korean Peninsula.”

In a plenary discussion that followed the opening ceremony, Ban Ki-moon, former Secretary General of the United Nations; Yasuo Fukuda, former Prime Minister of Japan; and Brian Mulroney, former Prime Minister of Canada, also mixed optimism with concern. Saying he would “bet on success going forward,” Mulroney said, “No one would have believed 30 years ago that the Soviet Union would implode, that Eastern Europe would be able to embrace democracy and that Germany would be unified.” Ban, meanwhile, warned against the rise of nationalism and intolerance, saying, “We need to work together to rebuild multilateral diplomacy, robust security cooperation and partnership, and faith in our globalized economy.”

In the afternoon, the forum hosted several events to mark the 20th anniversary of the 1998 agreement between Korean President Kim Dae-jung and Japanese Prime Minister Keizo Obuchi, an important milestone in the development of bilateral ties. It also hosted a panel of eminent scholars and diplomats who discussed Kim Jong-un’s recent meetings with the South Korean, American and Chinese leaders and what could come next.

Island healing

In the afternoon of the final day of the forum, two very interesting sessions convened, sessions dealing with issues much more local in scope. Sponsored by the local Jeju authorities, these gatherings gave audiences an opportunity to learn about the island, its rich heritage and the efforts taken to heal the scars of its often painful past.

In the special session, “Path to Reconciliation, Coexistence and Happiness for Jeju Islanders,” journalist, author and Jeju Olle Foundation founder Suh Myung-sook, actress Moon Sori and Ewha Womans University professor Song Ki-jeong met to discuss how the island can overcome its past and chart a happier path forward. J. M. G. Le Clézio, the author of the novella “Tempest,” which is set in Jeju, could not attend for health reasons, but sent by video a prerecorded keynote speech.

In her keynote address, Suh said the now famous network of trails she created, the Jeju Olle, offered walkers a space of healing. “You can experience all of Jeju walking its beautiful trails, as you climb to and descend from its villages — you meet sea and nature, meet haenyeo and other people,” she said. “In the process, you can heal yourself, make yourself stronger.”

Moon, who has joined a national campaign to mark the April 3 Incident, finds solace in the island’s bucolic warmth. She said, “Unlike my hometown, which has changed a lot, when I come to Jeju and see the open sea unfold before me, I feel comforted, like being embraced by my grandmother.”

Song, who translated Le Clézio‘s “Tempest” into Korean, explained the author’s affection for Jeju, noting the island’s similarity to his birthplace of Mauritius. “It seems we can see Jeju and Mauritius reflected in his works,” she said.

In the next session, “Networking Art and Peace Community in East Asia,” a panel of artists, critics and museum officials from Okinawa, Vietnam, Shanghai, Taiwan, Jeju and Gwangju discussed the role of the artist in healing scars from the past. In doing so, the participants — who hailed from places with painful pasts similar to that of Jeju — helped define the role of art on Jeju as the island builds its profile as a space of peace and culture.

Jeju Museum of Art director Gim Jungi, who put together the session, said the gathering was the first public discussion of how art could be reconstituted to contribute to peace on Jeju, an island of peace. He also said the session would help build a network of “peace art” throughout East Asia. He said, “The session would promote sustained, unified activities by building a peace art network through active dialogue among the participants.”

Jeju Forum for Peace and Prosperity

The Jeju Forum is a regional multilateral dialogue for promoting peace and prosperity in Asia. The forum serves as a platform for discussing and sharing future visions on sustainable peace and prosperity in Asia. Hosted by the Government of Jeju Special Self-Governing Province with the full support of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Korea, the Forum was launched in 2001 as the Jeju Peace Forum. The forum was held biennially before 2009, and when it became an annual event in 2011, it was renamed as the Jeju Forum for Peace and Prosperity. Its Secretariat is headquartered in Jeju, South Korea. The Jeju Forum is held in May each year in Jeju with more than 60 sessions, including plenary sessions and various networking opportunities, thereby providing a great deal of insights to the world.

April 3 Incident

Beginning on April 3, 1948, the April 3 Incident was a mass uprising against the holding of elections to be held in the southern half of Korea only to create a separate government, today’s Republic of Korea. The national authorities, then led by the U.S. military, responded with a brutal counterinsurgency campaign. By Sept. 21, 1954, when the crackdown ended, 10,890 people had been killed, the overwhelming majority at the hands of government forces. Over 4,000 went missing, and thousands fled the island. The incident was the second deadliest event in modern Korean history after the Korean War.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

In this hyperconnected world of ubiquitous mobile devices, virtually universal Internet and social media, a world-class city needs a world-class tourism app. And with the i Tour Seoul app, Seoul provides just that. An expert tour guide at your fingertips, the app provides a seemingly endless amount of useful information and services, including top 10 lists, recommended attractions, events and festivals, hotel reservations, real-time bus information, a subway map and more. If visitors to Seoul have just one tourism app on their smart phone, this should be it.

Everything you wanted to know about Seoul

i Tour Seoul puts at the user’s disposal the app’s encyclopedic knowledge of the city. The app has extensive directories of Seoul’s tourist attractions, stores, restaurants, hotels and other facilities. Additionally, the app gives you the day’s weather, information on transportation, locations of tourist information centers for more personal consultations and more.

Particularly helpful — to both those new to Seoul and grizzled veterans of the city — is i Tour Seoul’s recommendations and specialized lists. Seoul’s best tourism minds are constantly coming up with thematic lists and articles to help travelers and residents discover new aspects of the city. Recent lists and articles include a solo traveler’s guide to Seoul, retro shops and cafés, springtime dessert cafés and old-school coffee shops and a day in the life of pop group TVXQ star U-Know Yunho.

As self-evidently great most of the sites introduced are, you don’t have to rely on Seoul Metropolitan Government’s word alone. Information of destinations include links to Trip Advisor, where you can find thousands upon thousands of real reviews by real travelers. As of the time of writing, Gyeongbokgung Palace had nearly 8,760 reviews on Trip Advisor, most overwhelmingly positive. The app also includes links to Instagram — because seeing is believing, after all.

Convenient and cutting edge

The i Tour Seoul app uses the latest advances in information technology to provide an optimum user experience.

Connected to the official Seoul travel site, VisitSeoul.net, the app offers real-time tourist information. This means you’ll always feel in the loop — when the city knows it, you’ll know it. You can also get real-time information on subways, buses and other means of transportation? Wondering where your bus is? Use the i Tour Seoul app and find out.

Wondering what’s nearby? Want to know where the nearest subway station is? The app’s location-based services provide you with a constantly updating list of sightseeing destinations, restaurants, cafés, shops, hotels and other businesses near you.

The simple, uncluttered interface is not only pleasing to the eye, but also provides an intuitive user experience. Never has getting travel information on the go been so easy.

i Tour Seoul has plenty of linguistic diversity, too. The app comes in five different languages: Korean, English, Simplified Chinese, Traditional Chinese and Japanese.

FYI> You can download the app from Apple’s App Store or Google Play. For more information, visit english.visitseoul.net

Written by SEOUL staff

Artist Kim Kon’s work takes us to a world where life and the galaxies are one

“The inspiration for the work comes from when I was young, when I did a lot of hiking. I was doing a four-day hike across Mt. Jirisan when one night I went to the bathroom and it seemed the stars were falling above my head.  You can get the same feeling if you go to a place like Jindo, but I felt it first in Mt. Jirisan. I felt I had to paint it.”

“Energy”

“Story of the Flowers”

An artist at one with nature, Kim Kon’s work features flowers, wild creatures and the Milky Way, the terrestrial and extraterrestrial often depicted in harmony with one another. Kim is an artist of many talents. Trained originally as a calligrapher, he later moved into aristocratic traditional painting, folk painting and eventually Western-style oil painting, the medium for which he is best known. Art critic Oh Se-kwon described him thusly: “Kim goes beyond the artistic spirit of Eastern painting and calligraphy expression, which uses Chinese characters and ink as materials and prioritizes transformations of the brush strokes, using the materials of expression of Western painting such as canvas and acrylic paint to smear the surface with thick layers of paint, boldly transforming colors.” To put this another way, Kim used the medium of Western painting to express a largely Eastern artistic vision and spirit.

This leather bag, made in Italy, features the artist’s work.

The largely self-trained artist’s career has spanned four decades, during which time he’s held 45 solo exhibits, including shows in the United States and China and an invitational exhibit organized GS Caltex in 2013 in which his work was especially well received. At his gallery in the posh Nonhyeon-dong area, we can experience his artistic world, a world where the beauty of life is at one with the vastness of the cosmos.

Written by SEOUL staff

Gallery Kon

Gallery Kon is an art gallery that hosts regular exhibitions of both Kim Kon’s work as well as art from other artists and regions, including African statuary. Visitors can appreciate or even purchase Kim’s best work, including his famous paintings of flowers and the Milky Way.

More Info

737, Seolleung-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Mon–Sat 11:00 a.m.–7 p.m.
Sun 2 p.m.–7 p.m.
T. 02-543-6060, gallerykon.modoo.at
Gangnam-gu Office Station (Line 7), Exit 3-1

Startup mall 52 Ewhayeodae-gil helps young people turn their dreams into reality

Startup shopping mall 52 Ewhayeodae-gil helps young people become entrepreneurs by providing them with the knowledge they’ll need to run a business. It provides training on management, finance, taxes, entrepreneurship, interior design, business law, cooperatives, e-commerce and online marketing. You’ll find plenty of goods produced with the support of local governments and the Small Enterprise and Market Service.

The mall also turned a disused plot into a multi-purpose space where merchants and customers alike can rest, learn or be entertained. The Ewha Shwimteo, as the space is called, will host several events in November. The first one, the Flea Market (Nov. 2), offers a wide range of handmade crafts that embody the spirit of their creators. The second, the Culture Festival, features artistic performances from around the world.

My Burger 마이버거

As the name suggests, you get to create your own burger here. Choose which toppings will adorn your juicy homemade patty, seasoned with equally as homemade sauce. There’s no seating – it’s takeout only – which is just the excuse your need to enjoy your burger in the pleasant surroundings of the Ewha Shwimteo.

88-14 Ewhayeodae-gil | T. 02-313-9780 | Mon.–Sat., 11:00–8:00 instagram: @my_burger2017

Kitchen Loading 키친로딩

This taqueria serves up Mexican food that is as healthy as it is delicious. Using homemade sauces and the freshest ingredients, Kitchen Loading is more than just a snack or a side dish for tequila or cerveza. It’s a full dining experience. Enjoy Mexican cuisine that’s good for you in exotic neon-lit surroundings – that is, enjoy it the Kitchen Loading way.

72-3 Ewhayeodae-gil | T. 0507-1411-1001 Mon.–Sat., 11:30–3:00, 6:00–11:00 | Instagram: @kitchen_loading

Aolata 에올라타

The brand sells or rents Korean traditional clothing, or Hanbok, that incorporates modern convenience and youthful sensibilities. With their variety of pattens, practical design and, best of all, reasonable cost, Aolata’s Hanbok are perfect for those wearing traditional clothing for the first time. When you rent an outfit, you can pick out the design yourself, and because the shop provides accessories, too, the brand is popular for commemorative photos, dates and outings.

52 Ewhayeodae-gil-11 | Wed.–Mon., noon–8:00 | instagram: @a_olata

AKE 아케

This work room takes its name from the “ake” in “take” and “make,” symbolizing the inspiration we get in daily life. One part café and one part workshop, the space allows designers room to conceptualize and create products reflecting the unique sensibilities of their makers. You can also enjoy a cup of darn good coffee, hand dripped using only the most carefully selected beans.

88-12 Ewhayeodae-gil | T. 070-7627-2017

Everyday, 1:00–8:00 | instagram: @ake_workroom

Written by SEOUL staff

Photo by Robert Koehler

At Jeju Forum 2017, over 5,500 leaders gather to discuss peace and prosperity in Asia

Chae Ji-ae doesn’t fit the typical image of haenyeo, the famous diving women of Jeju. While most haenyeo are elderly women, Chae, a former hairdresser who moved from Seoul to Jeju to become a diver, is but a young woman. She represents a new generation of haenyeo.

Speaking as a panelist at a special session of the Jeju Forum for Peace and Prosperity 2017 entitled, “From Babies to Grannies of the Sea: Global Promotion and Sustainability of Jeju Haenyeo,” Chae revealed the lessons she learned from the sea.

“I learned to be humble,” she said. “I can’t be proud because of my college education. Haenyeo have wisdom about nature, like the direction of winds in different seasons. This only come from years of experience and must be respected.”

Photo by Robert Koehler

The Jeju Forum for Peace and Prosperity 2017 marked the 12th year for the event, held annually to promote peace in Asia. Over 5,500 leaders and experts from 80 countries gathered at the International Convention Center Jeju from May 31 to June 2 to discuss this year’s theme of “Sharing a Common Vision for Asia’s Future.” While the forum’s 75 sessions covered a wide range of global political, environmental and humanitarian issues, it also placed a special focus on the local and cultural, with particular focus on Jeju’s haenyeo, who were registered on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in December 2016.

Haenyeo: a national treasure

The Jeju Forum’s session on Jeju’s haenyeo tradition was an undeniable highlight of the forum. An exhibit of photographs and a display of equipment used by haenyeo gave attendees a closer look at the lives of the diving women. Brenda Paik Sunoo, writer and photographer of the book, “Moon Tides: Jeju Island Grannies of the Sea,” held a book-signing event, too.

Haenyeo came to global attention after being registered with UNESCO at the end of last year. The community of diving women, who hold their breaths for minutes at a time as they search the ocean floor for abalone and other shellfish, has contributed to advancing the status of women in Jeju. They’ve also promoted environmental sustainability with their eco-friendly harvesting methods and community management of fisheries. Unfortunately, age and the lure of other economic activities has made the haenyeo lifestyle increasingly rare. Today, there are only 2,500 truly active divers, most of whom are elderly.

Photo by Robert Koehler

The haenyeo session urged the public to take action to sustain the community of diving women, a vulnerable yet precious treasure. Lee Sun-hwa, a member of the Jeju Special Self-Governing Provincial Council, explained the haenyeo’s irreplaceable value. “The UNESCO recognition restored the haenyeo’s dignity,” she said. “The true benefit was not necessarily economic for the haenyeo, but that they became an icon for a new kind of feminism.” She said that though life as a haenyeo was considered shameful in the past, UNESCO recognition has given them pride in their work and that of their mothers and grandmothers.

“A haenyeo represents a valuable web of stories, life experiences, and wisdom about nature. She represents a kind of a museum.” said Lee. “Their stories, especially from elderly haenyeos in their 70s, must be recorded. Not just by students, but scholars from education, culture, and government sectors.”

The session spotlighted the haenyeo’s efforts to protect Jeju’s famously spectacular natural environment. Film director Koh Hee-young showed the resolve haenyeo have to protect the community and Jeju’s natural resources with a clip from her film, “Mulsum: Breathing Underwater.” In the film, the haenyeo swore off the use of high-tech diving equipment. “There will be no sea creatures left for the next generation of haenyeo,” they said. “This is our promise.”

Photo by Robert Koehler

The haenyeo are highly active in their local communities, too. Paik Sunoo, who photographed and documented the lives of haenyeo outside of the water, explained that the divers were active in community service. When not working, they serve in senior centers and visit elders to care for them and bathe them. “All Jeju students must learn social responsibility, gratitude and community,” she said. “The sea belongs to all of us. We must go together.”

After the session, the attendees and panel speakers gathered for a brief tour of the Beobhwan Haenyeo School, guided by its director, Kang Ae-shim. Kang showed participants around the school, discussing its history. The school has trained over 9,500 students from Jeju and beyond.

German-born Korean media personality Daniel Lindemann, who participated as a speaker on the youth panel, said he was surprised to find out about the haenyeo school. “It’s very important to sustain the haenyeo culture and its economy, as many haenyeo have difficulty keeping a steady income,” he said. “Supporting them both culturally and economically should be a necessity.”

Park Jin, President of the Asia Future Institute, also attended the tour. He said, “Let the haenyeo remain as the most beautiful and meaningful part of Korean culture.”

Peace and dignity on a healthy planet

The Jeju Forum’s headline act was former U.S. Vice President and Noble Peace Prize Laureate Al Gore, who kicked off the forum with a special session on the challenges and opportunities of climate change. Pointing to climate change as a factor in political instability and humanitarian crises, he assured listeners that changes are in the works, including international efforts to promote the use of renewable energy. Passing the baton of social responsibility to the audience, he concluded, “Political will to act is itself a renewable resource.”

The forum’s early sessions tackled weighty issues related to world peace and global prosperity. Participants especially focused on North Korea, whose nuclear and missile programs grievously worry the international community. In a prerecorded address, President Moon Jae-in stressed that the neglect of ongoing violations of human rights in North Korea negates the push for peace. “As human rights are universal values, we will work hard to improve the human rights of North Koreans,” he said. “We will work with the international community to encourage the North Korean authorities to improve their policies and systems.”

Lee Hong-koo, former Prime Minister, expressed hope for inter-Korean dialogue. “South and North Korea made major movements toward reconciliation in 1991,” he said. “I hope that these measures will furnish the basis for a dialogue.”

One session dealt specifically with the issue of North Korean human rights. Participants stressed that without improvements in North Korea’s human rights situation, substantive peace and prosperity might prove elusive.

Photo by Douglas MacDonald

Michael Kirby, Former Chairman of the U.N. Commission of Inquiry on Human Rights in the DPRK, explained that peace was not an absence of war, but rather the internal peace of human existence that came from living in peaceful countries. He said, “Prosperity cannot be obtained if people face human rights violations that exist in North Korea.”

Speakers encouraged listeners to act. Lee Jung-hoon, South Korea’s ambassador-at-large on North Korean human rights, despaired that systemic oppression in North Korea has been allowed to continue over three generations. “We’re running out of time with North Korea being nuclear,” he said. “We need to recognize the urgency of the problem.”

Likewise, North Korean defector and activist Lee Hyeon-seo called on the world to turn its eyes toward North Korea, saying, “The North Korean human rights tragedy must become one of the international community’s most pressing issues.”

The forum addressed wider regional issues, too. In his address, President Moon pledged to make Korea a nation that opens a way for common prosperity and peace in Asia. Jeju Governor Won Hee-ryong, too, reemphasized the value of unity in fulfilling the forum’s vision. At a forum of former world leaders, he said, “Peace and prosperity in Asia cannot be possible without cooperation among different countries.”

The role of the youth

This year’s Jeju Forum was especially inclusive, with new sessions created to broaden participation. “Before, our agenda included only peace and prosperity, but we’ve broadened the sessions with cultural topics like the haenyeo and youth,” explained Jeju Forum Program Assistant Kang Na-gyeong. “We’ve also expanded the audience of the forums to include students and professors.”

In the youth session, many international leaders gathered to discuss the role of youth as a driving force in bringing positive changes in the world.

While participants recognized the vulnerability of the youth, they also emphasized the need to protect and nurture them.

Photo by Robert Koehler

Puan Maharani, Coordinating Minister for Human Development and Culture of Indonesia, said the government must develop education and create the right environment to protect their rights. She also noted how development of communication technology today has created an environment in which young people can voice their opinions and influence government policies.

Youth can also play a crucial role in effecting political change. Hamat Bah, Minister for Tourism and Culture of Gambia, explained how the youth of his country played a crucial role in bringing democracy to his country after a prolonged period of dictatorship. He said, “They voiced the dictator’s injustice through social media, murals, street rallies and campaigns.”

Speakers also emphasized the role of creativity in unleashing young people’s potential. Eduardo Mendez, Executive Director of Simon Bolivar Music Foundation in Venezuela, pointed to the role that El Sistema, Venezuela’s renowned youth music program, played in helping vulnerable youth. He said, “Participating in the orchestra and choir gave vulnerable students opportunities to become leaders through community consciousness, healthy competition and understanding differences.”

Umair Mushtaq, Communication Manager of Pakistan’s Little Art youth arts program, explained that art develops the potential of the youth and deepens the understanding of the value of peace.

Speakers also underscored the importance of intergenerational communication, cooperation and unity in fostering the youth. Shin Hwajeong, Representative of social enterprise Jejudo Joa, which works with artists to create art using the garbage that washes up on Jeju’s beaches, said her work was a great example of the Jeju community working together to educate and bring change. Both the nurturing of the young and honoring of the old are necessary to propel the forum’s vision, particularly in Jeju, she said.

Written by Diana Park

Host province of PyeongChang 2018 promotes its rugged appeal at Seongbuk World Beer Festival

It’s Saturday afternoon, and Seongbuk Fountain Square is jam-packed with people. Appealingly exotic aromas fill the air, and long lines form in front of the many tents that have been set up in the square. Along the fountain pool, families, couples and friends sit and chat in small groups, a plate of adventurously unfamiliar cuisine in one hand and an equally exotic beer in the other. On a stage overlooking the fun, an expat band belts out some indie rock.

Welcome to the first-ever Seongbuk World Beer Festival.

Hosted by Seongbuk-gu Office and sponsored by the embassies of the Czech Republic, Myanmar, Pakistan, Serbia, Slovakia, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand and the United Kingdom as well as the Songbukcheon Merchants Association, the 2016 Seongbuk World Beer Festival, held on Sept. 24, fostered communication and global brotherhood through the international language of beer. Beer merchants and the drinkers who love them weren’t the only participants, however. The province of Gangwon-do, the host of the upcoming 2018 PyeongChang Olympic Games, was present as well. Gangwon-do might be more famous for its coffee than its beer (see page 26), but the festival was still an excellent opportunity for the province to promote its many, many charms to an international audience.

Discovering Gangwon-do’s magic in Seoul

Kim Yong-chul, a spokesperson for Gangwon-do, explains that for his province, the beer festival was too good an opportunity to pass up to reach Seoul’s cosmopolitan community. “We chose to participate in this particular festival because many international residents live in Seongbuk-dong,” he says. “About 1.55 million people live in Gangwon-do. There are about 1.57 million foreigners living in Korea. So there are more foreigners in Korea than Gangwon-do residents.”

In a corner of the festival grounds, an artificial snow machine turns early autumn into a winter wonderland. Soohorang and Bandabi, the white tiger and Asiatic black bear, respectively, who are the mascots of the PyeongChang games, stand underneath the falling snow, children gathered beneath them and parents snapping away with their phone cameras. At a nearby tent, visitors get their photos with the mascots instantly printed using Bluetooth technology. At another tent, young children – and even a couple of adults – have images of the lovable mascots painted on their faces. At the Gangwon-do information tent, a couple of visitors, their eyes obscured by black headsets, bob and weave as they experience some of the upcoming Olympic events in virtual reality.

Kim invites international residents to discover the beauty of Gangwon-do, a province renowned for its rugged mountains, deep valleys and rich local traditions. He implores, “When the Olympics open in PyeongChang, please come to Gangwon-do.”

Written by SEOUL staff