Nobel laureate J. M. G. Le Clézio’s ‘Bitna: Under the Sky of Seoul’ is an intimate exploration of a city in perpetual change

“The most impressive thing about Seoul is that because it has so many people and a variety of elements, it’s always transforming. When you come back to a certain place six months later, some things have disappeared and new things have constantly been created. Compared with this, Paris is static and unchanging. I was talking with director Park Chan-wook, and he, too, said because Seoul transforms so quickly, he doesn’t want to leave, even for a minute.”

At a press conference at the Korean Publishers Association Building in Seoul’s Gwanghwamun district on Dec. 14, J. M. G. Le Clézio expressed his affection for the city of Seoul, a city with which the renowned French writer has grown intimately familiar since he first visited it over a decade ago. The winner of the 2008 Nobel Prize in Literature’s recently released novel, “Bitna: Under the Sky of Seoul,” is a portrait of the city, its people and places, its beauty and its ugliness. For him, the Korean capital is a place full of tales. “Seoul is a place that fully stimulates the imagination. Seoul let me create stories.”

Seoul through its stories

Published in Korean and English editions, with a French edition scheduled for March, “Bitna” is a picture of life in Seoul as experienced by its denizens. Its characters come from a variety of backgrounds, reflecting the diversity of the city. Le Clézio unwinds their tales against the city’s rich tapestry of backgrounds, from the glitz of Gangnam to the grit of Yeongdeungpo’s working class neighborhoods. He weaves in many of the city’s landmarks as well, including Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace, Cheonggyecheon Stream, Bukhansan Mountain, Namsan Mountain and the Hangang River. The result is an exploration of one of the world’s greatest cities, largely as experienced by the writer himself. “All the places that appear in the novel, I visited myself,” he said in the press conference. “I don’t take taxis. I observed people while taking the subway or buses.”

The eponymous main character, Bitna, is a nineteen-year-old in her first year at university and a recent transplant to Seoul from Jeolla-do, where her parents work in the fish market. As it was for Le Clézio, the city is for Bitna an unfamiliar, crowded and lonely place. By chance, Bitna gets a part-time job telling stories to Salome, a woman with an incurable illness who now spends her days at home, waiting to die. Bitna’s stories open up a world of adventure for both Bitna and Salome.

Bitna tells Salome five stories in all: the story of Mr. Cho, a retiree who raises pigeons and imagines the home he left behind in North Korea during the war as a baby on his mother’s back; the story of the mysterious traveler Kitty and the messages she delivers to bring once-distant neighbors together in community and friendship; the story of Naomi, abandoned as a baby, and Hana, the woman who raises her, and their encounter with life and death; the story of the singer Nabi, who rises to stardom but falls victim to the greed and lies of the people around her; and Bitna’s own story, about her life in the city and the fear she comes to experience as a result of a faceless stalker. Each story is layered with diverse themes that have attracted the author’s interest over the years, including Korea’s traditions, religions, history and cuisine, as well as intergenerational conflict, inter-Korean issues and sociopolitical issues.

Le Clézio may not be finished in Seoul, either. He sees many stories to tell in the people he meets on the street. “One morning at 6 a.m. I saw an elderly people picking up waste paper in Sinchon,” he says. “Curious as to where they came from and where they were going, I wanted to follow them. I also want to write novels about a fortune teller I met near Ewha Womans University and about a Seoul taxi driver.”

Bitna: Under the Sky of Seoul  |  빛나­서울 하늘 아래
Author: J. M. G. Le Clézio
English edition translated by Brother Anthony of Taizé
Korean edition translated by Song Ki Jeong
Seoul Selection (December, 2017)
216 pages (English) | 254 pages (Korean)
Hard cover, 128 x 188 mm
Price: KRW 14,000
Available at Kyobo Book Centre and elsewhere

Written and photographed by SEOUL staff

One of Korea’s most popular celebrations, the Yeon Deung Hoe (Lotus Lantern Festival) brightens the soul with not only paper lanterns, but community spirit

The eighth day of the fourth lunar month is the Buddha’s Birthday, when temples nationwide light paper lanterns to symbolically transmit the wisdom and compassion of the Buddha. In Seoul, the holiday is celebrated with the Yeon Deung Hoe, a 1,200-year-old festival of light that brightens not only the night sky above the city but also the hearts of its participants. One of Korea’s best-loved celebrations, especially by international visitors, the festival features not only thousands upon thousands of paper lanterns, but also exhibits, traditional performances and crafts, rallies and, of course, the spectacular Lantern Parade, the festival’s highlight event.

An age-old tradition reborn

The Yeon Deung Hoe is a celebration that goes back some 1,200 years. In the ancient Korean kingdom of Silla (57 BC-AD 935), subjects celebrated the Palgwanhoe, a major Buddhist festival, with the lighting of paper lanterns. The celebrations grew even grander during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1382), when it was elevated into a major national celebration. Even during the Joseon Dynasty, when Buddhism was repressed and the festival discouraged by the kingdom’s Neoconfucian elite, the common people continued to hold lotus lantern lighting festivals in the countryside.

The current incarnation of the celebration began in 1976, when a lotus lantern parade to mark the newly designated Buddha’s Birthday holiday proceeded from Yeouido to Jogyesa Temple. In 2012, the Cultural Heritage Administration designated the festival as Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 122.

Procession of light

While the celebration features several days of events, the undisputed highlight is the Lotus Lantern Parade (May 7, 7-9:30 PM), a truly awe-inspiring procession of Buddhist-related floats and lotus lantern-toting marchers along Jongno, Seoul’s historic central thoroughfare. Seen from above, it resembles nothing less than the Milky Way or a river of candlelight flowing through the heart of the city.

The procession features many spectacularly designed floats, usually based on a Buddhist theme. Many temples and Buddhist organizations contribute teams of marchers. In recent years, delegations from Sri Lanka, Thailand and other primarily Buddhist nations have taken part as well, a reflection of Seoul’s growing multiculturalism.

The parade begins at the iconic Dongdaemun Gate and ends at Jogyesa Temple.

GO> All along Jongno street (Subway Line 1, Jonggak station or Jongno-3ga station)

Traditional lantern exhibits

The paper lotus lantern, a symbol of the Buddha’s teachings, is an art form that goes back in Korea over a millennium. During the Yeon Deung Hoe, exhibitions of these lanterns (May 6-14) are held at Jogyesa Temple, the Cheonggyecheon Stream and Gangnam’s Bongeunsa Temple. You can see hundreds of lanterns in countless shapes, colors and sizes, often designed by some of Korea’s top craftsmen.

GO> Jogyesa Temple (Subway Line 3, Anguk Station)
Bongeunsa Temple (Subway Line 2, Samseong Station)
Cheonggyecheon Stream Area (Subway Line 1, Jonggak Station)

Cheering togetherness

The Lotus Lantern Parade is preceded by the Eoullim Madang (May 7, 4:30-6 PM), a Buddhist cheer rally at Dongguk University Stadium where participants get themselves into the spirit by watching exciting performances of dance and music. The symbolic bathing of the baby Buddha and a Buddhist service is held at the end of the performances.

GO> Dongguk University Stadium (Subway Line 3, Dongguk Univ. Station)

Dancing below the flower petals

The fun doesn’t end with the Lotus Lantern Parade. After the parade, the area around the landmark Jonggak Intersection becomes one big street party with music and communal performances of the Ganggangsullae, all below a falling rain of paper flower petals. The atmosphere is intoxicating, and the energy infectious.

The next day, Sunday, May 8, the area around Jogyesa Temple hosts a variety of activities. Especially popular with international visitors is the lantern-making program, where you can try your hand at an age-old tradition. You can also sample Korea’s unique vegetarian temple cuisine, take in displays of folk dancing, music and street performances, purchase crafts and more.

To end the celebration, another lotus lantern parade is held in the Insa-dong arts quarter and in front of Jogyesa Temple (May 8, 7-9 PM). This is a final chance for participants to hoist the lantern high and pray for peace and happiness.

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More Info

www.LLF.or.kr/eng

Written by SEOUL staff

Newly opened Korean Temple Food Center lets you experience Korea’s 1,700-year-old Slow Food tradition

한국사찰음식 문화체험관

It’s a Saturday afternoon, and about a dozen international participants have gathered at the Korean Temple Food Center near Anguk Station, located just across the street from the popular Insa-dong district. They stand in groups of three or four at separate countertops, plates of ingredients placed neatly before them. At the head of the class, standing behind a table covered with an assortment of colorful vegetables and sauces, stands the Ven. Jeong Kwan, a Buddhist nun and expert on Korean temple cuisine. Sensing that her students were a bit tense, she smiles and tells them to relax. “The food will taste better that way,” she says.

Opened in December, the Korean Temple Food Center is designed to give international visitors and locals alike an opportunity to experience the sights, smells and sound of a 1,700-year-old culinary tradition. The programs here are very hands-on, and visitors are encouraged to try some of the delicacies.

Mandala on a dining table

Today, the students are making glutinous rice steamed in a lotus leaf, or yeonipbap. One of the most aesthetically pleasing dishes in Korean Buddhist cooking, yeonipbap is sometimes called a “mandala on a dining table,” likening it to the beautiful works of Buddhist art. Jeong Kwan demonstrates how it’s done: She molds a lump of pre-cooked glutinous rice in the center of a giant lotus leaf, garnishes it with a slice of lotus root and, with great artistry, folds the lotus leaf into a tight packet, which is then placed in a steamer. After Jeong Kwan’s demonstration, the students give it a try, with the nun-chef lending assistance and giving advice when needed.

Jeong Kwan’s unassuming cheerfulness and approachability – she even helps one student tie her apron properly – might be what you’d expect from a Buddhist nun who spends most of her days in a picturesque hermitage in the mountains of southwest Korea, but perhaps not from someone many celebrated chefs praise for making “the most exquisite food in the world,” according to the New York Times. Try picturing Gordon Ramsay smiling as he helps a student tie her apron – you just can’t.

The yeonipbap, as well as the other dishes prepared this day, are completely vegan. “The biggest difference between temple food and regular Korean cuisine is that temple food does not use ingredients from animals,” explains Jeong Kwan. “This is in accordance with Buddhist teachings that consider all life precious and order us not to kill.”

The ultimate farm-to-plate food

Korean temple food is, as the name suggests, the food eaten daily at Korea’s Buddhist temples. This is a lot more significant than it sounds, however. The Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism explains that temple food constitutes “a cultural core that gives a concrete form to the essential teachings of Buddhism on its path to healthy living and ultimate enlightenment.” It teaches humanity to live in harmony with nature and appreciate the spirit of interbeing.

The act of cooking is itself a form of meditation. “In Korean Buddhism, we believe every process in preparing food is a form of practice,” explains Jeong Kwan. “Because we farm and harvest ingredients ourselves and use those ingredients to make the food we eat, we cannot help but use seasonal ingredients. And because we cook what we’ve harvested from the garden, I think temple food is truly farm-to-plate.”

Experiencing a healthy lifestyle

For the students, the class was a rare opportunity to experience the beauty of Korean Buddhist culture in the most direct way possible. Some were impressed by the space itself. “What most impressed me was the wall-mounted, touch-display recipe generator,” says Douglas Holden, an American professor. “Pictures of the foods could be scrolled through and then a recipe could be printed out.”

Others appreciated the opportunity to about “slow life” from a master. Ashley Higgins, an American teacher, says the experience felt like a “glimpse into living a true, unadulterated wholesome life via food.” As she explains, “To learn about food and cooking firsthand from someone who forages, grows and makes from scratch most – if not all – of her ingredients was inspiring, thought provoking and awesome.”

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

A+ Dental Clinic offers the best care in an internationally friendly environment

When you’re living overseas, finding a good dentist with whom you can communicate is not always easy. A+ Dental Clinic, with two locations in Apgujeong-dong and one in the Seoul suburb of Bundang, offers not only top-quality service but does so in a friendly, English-speaking environment tailored to international patients. Whatever your dental needs are, A+ Dental Clinic has you covered.

Expat-tailored service

Founded in 1996, A+ Dental Clinic has spent nearly two decades providing some of Korea’s best-quality dental services to local and international patients.

A+ Dental Clinic is especially popular with expatriate patients – not only is it a favorite of international residents of Seoul but many expatriates living in the countryside make the long trip to Seoul just to get treatment there, too. A number of patients from nearby countries, including Japan and China, make a point of dropping in for treatment when they come to Korea on business, too.

The clinic’s top-quality care is the primary draw, of course, but the hospital goes out of its way to welcome international patients and make their therapy experience as hassle-free as possible. In the case of orthodontic work, for example, the hospital ensures that you can continue to get consistent treatment overseas at sister clinics all around the world. It also accepts a variety of popular insurance plans, including the Tricare plan favored by many U.S. service personnel stationed in Korea.

Communication proves no problem at A+ Dental Clinic, either. Not only are the department heads, specialists who received their training in the United States, perfectly fluent in English but the staff is composed of fluent English speakers, too, so patients can communicate their needs with little worry.

The hospital also works hard to minimize treatment times. Thanks to the clinic’s in-house 3-D carving machine, the clinic can complete certain prosthodontic treatments, such as crowns, in just a single day. There’s also an in-house lab where dental prostheses are made.

Wide range of treatments

Staffed by a crack team of doctors trained at top American and Korean dental schools, the clinic offers an impressively varied range of services, from the therapeutic to the aesthetic. Its specialized departments include:

Orthodontics Led by Dr. Kim Eung-soo, a Columbia University-educated and American board-certified orthodontist, the orthodontic department works to bring your teeth, lips and jaws into proper alignment, not only giving you a prettier smile but also allowing you to eat more comfortably and enjoy a better quality of life in general.

Prosthodontics If you’re already missing a couple of chiclets, the prosthodontics department is here to help. Led by two American-trained prosthodontists, the department specializes in maintaining the oral function, comfort, appearance and health of patients with missing or deficient teeth, making use of gold and ceramic crowns, bridges, dentures and implants.

Periodontics The periodontics department treats gum diseases and disorders. Dr. Chung Kyung-uk provides a variety of periodontal treatments, including implant surgery, deep scaling and root planning, laser treatment, periodontal regeneration and soft tissue grafting. A graduate of New York University’s advanced training program in implant dentistry, Chung has years of clinical experience with an over 99.2 percent implant success rate, and his implant department received the Grand Prize at the Korean Global Medical Service Awards 2008.

More specialized treatments

A+ Dental Clinic also has four specialty clinics that provide state-of-the-art treatments to patients who need them.

Implant Clinic Implants are artificial teeth that are implanted directly into the jawbone. In addition to their aesthetic function, implants play the same role as natural teeth.

Aesthetic Dentistry Clinic This clinic specializes in improving the cosmetic beauty of your smile through laminate veneers, ceramic restorations, composite resin fillings, teeth whitening and gum reshaping.

Laser Clinic The latest laser treatments can restore your smile with little bleeding or pain, if any. Teeth whitening procedures using lasers are available, too.

TMJ Clinic Temporomandibular joint (TMJ) disorders can be quite debilitating, causing discomfort even during basic jaw movements when eating, speaking or yawing. The TMJ clinic accurately diagnoses the spectrum of TMJ disorders and provides the necessary treatments.

More info

A+ Sterilization System

In the Sterilized Implant Center, A+ Dental Clinic takes the utmost care to prevent any possible infections as they operate. All patients are treated with sterilized and/or disposable dental instruments. The clinic also uses sterilized-taped equipment and sterile water to provide patients with an absolutely sanitary environment for treatment.

GO> Apgujeong Branch
A short walk from Apgujeong Station (Line 3), Exit 2

Apgujeong Rodeo Branch
A 10-minute walk from Apgujeong Rodeo Station (Bundang Line), Exit 6

Bundang Branch
A short walk from Seohyeon Station (Bundang Line), Exit 3 or 4
T.02-3442-7616 for English-speaking coordinator
www.aplusnetworks.co.kr

Written by SEOUL staff

LTI Korea’s online library makes the world of Korean literature accessible to the non-Korean speaking masses

Less than a decade ago, those living outside the country who hoped to track down works of Korean literature likely found themselves seeking out an Asian Studies Library, purchasing an academic reader or coming to Korea and buying translations here. Put simply, learning about Korean literature had some very real technical barriers. Today, however, nearly anyone with internet access can open his or her browser and in seconds be studying classic works of contemporary Korean novelists or reading up on famous Korean authors from the comfort of their computer or e-reading devices.

It’s never been easier to become familiar with Korean literature.

A little background

When the Literature Translation Institute of Korea (LTI Korea) was originally founded in 2001 it focused on translation and text-based publications of Korean literature. LTI still honors this mandate, but there has also been a vast shift toward reaching more readers across the globe. To do this, however, embracing digital technology was key.

In person, the library is traditional looking, with 3,055 translations of Korean literature available in nearly 40 different languages available. While the library was first designed to serve the needs of those seeking print copies of the texts in question, it has evolved at an accelerating pace, moving quickly into the digital arena and taking full advantage of the opportunities afforded by the web.

Going digital

In 2009 the library opened its first e-library website (library.klti.or.kr). The site was relatively simple but evolved exponentially over time. Today the digital footprint of the LTI Korea Library is massive, with some 16,000 separate records. Its head librarian Kim Hye-young notes that, “One the most convenient elements of our (web) pages is that they are quick to access; comprehensive; can be reached any time, anywhere, and we have made a conscious effort to make certain that all related information is linked.” Reflecting on the user-friendly nature of the site, she adds, “You can find almost all the information you want about an author on one page in the Korean Writers section of the site. If you want to learn more, the pages also contain links to deeper information on related pages.”

Myriad features

Perhaps the simplest way to use the site is to start at the bibliography page using a basic author search. This engine reveals one of the most impressive features of the website: its integration. The search tool at the top of the page connects users to a listing in which most Romanizations of Korean author names are recognized, with the first result leading to a page with complete information about each author and links to more extensive information in all areas. The author page includes biographical information in multiple languages, a listing of books and e-books published, news on the authors from abroad, a record of overseas appearances and a catch-all category that includes additional reports and publications. If you find a book you are interested in by a certain author, its entry also contains convenient links to online bookstores and libraries that have that book available, including whether or not it is available in the LTI e-Library, either free or for e-loan.

The site can be used in other ways as well, as the search tool will also find particular works, translators and other information any Korean lit aficionado may desire. For example, the LTI Korea Library site boasts 52 stories or novels of translated Korean literature from the “20th Century Korean Literature Series” in PDF or EPUB format, each of which being available for free download.

Even better? Many commercial books are available for e-check-out as the LTI Library, working with Overdrive, has made an increasingly wide variety of modern fiction available online. Simply go to the overdrive site (lti.lib.overdrive.com) and for 15 days you can “borrow” many of Korea’s greatest works, from historical texts written in the Classical era to books like the recent international smash “Please Look After Mom” by Shin Kyung-sook.

Checking in, checking out

Fortunately for avid readers, obtaining a membership is easy, requiring only your email and language preference. The LTI staff members are constantly keeping abreast of new additions to the e-publication scene, with the library hoping to expand its collection to include works that are not only available in English.

The site is also dedicated to providing links to external media related to Korean literature, including information about 276 online videos of Korean works that have been turned into movies. Moreover, site administrators have been known to post links to external articles from around the globe that are concerned with Korean literature in translation. In addition, the website contains related content including lists of translators, publishers and a range of reports on the status of Korean translation. At its core, the LTI Korea website is a one-stop location for information about translated Korean literature everywhere and anywhere.

The future

The year 2014 was a banner year for the library, as the team created a database for the names of Korean writers, established an e-library system and executed a successful overhaul of the LTI website. In 2016 another update will make the site even more comprehensive, a tribute to the LTI Korea Library’s commitment to cutting-edge literary research.

The LTI Library likes to remind browsers and Korea literature fans that it is constantly evolving. As a part of this development, Kim Hye-young notes that LTI takes reader feedback extremely seriously. This year the LTI Library has created a two-month project that will integrate information gathered from visitor comments and feedback during the year 2015 in order to make the site more usable for the average website viewer. With a laugh, the librarian adds, “So please inspect the site and send us feedback.”

At its core, the LTI Korea website is a one-stop location for information about translated Korean literature everywhere and anywhere.

LTI Korea Library

FYI>  T.02 6919 7700, www.klti.or.kr, Online Library: library.klti.or.kr

GO>  Bongeunsa Station (Line 9), Exit 4

Written by Charles Montgomery

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The K-Book Silk Road

LTI Korea President Kim Seong-kon is bullish on Korean literature’s global future

Kim Seong-kon, president of the Literature Translation Institute of Korea (LTI Korea), believes Korean literature is poised to take off globally. “ Hallyu (the booming popularity of Korean pop culture overseas), information technology and fantastic economic development have built a Silk Road, especially to the West,” he says. “So we can just hit the road.”

An author, literary critic and academic with a long career in both Korea and the United States, Kim was reappointed to lead LTI Korea in February as a recognition of his efforts to globalize Korean literature. And with overseas interest in Korean literature growing, those efforts are bearing significant fruit. He notes, “We are currently knocking at the door of big publishers in New York and London, and by doing so, we can easily promote Korean literature because they have connections to things like the New York Times Review of Books.”

Korea may have gotten a late start in promoting itself, says Kim, especially compared to neighbors with much longer histories of interaction with the West such as China and Japan, but Korea’s growing economic and cultural prominence is giving Korean literature a certain cache it has hitherto lacked. And, more importantly, literature can present Korean culture in a way other media cannot. “K-pop or Hallyu cannot represent Korean culture comprehensively,” he says. “Literature is a good medium of letting the world know about Korea – what we think, how we live – because literature incorporates history, politics, economics, all sorts of things.”

Rome, however, wasn’t built in a day. “It takes some time to make Korean literature conspicuous” in overseas markets, he cautions. “It’s just beginning to emerge.” To help it emerge more fully, certain things will need to change, beginning with Korean writers themselves. Citing the success of works that have adopted the detective story technique such as Dan Brown’s “The Da Vinci Code” and Umberto Eco’s “The Name of the Rose,” he calls on Korean authors to produce more engaging writing. “Today, we have lots of fun things,” such as television and the Internet, he says. “That’s why we have to write intriguing work.”

And it goes without saying that globalization also requires good translators – the kind of translators LTI Korea works hard to cultivate. According to Kim, good translation requires three things: knowledge of both languages and culture, a keen sense of literature and a polished writing ability. On top of that, you need to love the work you’re translating. When you’ve captured these elements, “the translated work can be as good as the original work, or even better,” he says.

Written by Robert Koehler

Crown Relocations relies on 50 years of moving experience to make your transition to life abroad as painless as possible

Moving is often a stressful experience. This is doubly so when moving to a new country, where the logistical difficulties of the move are compounded by the pressures of adjusting to a new culture, often in an environment where you don’t speak the local language. It’s an undertaking that can leave even the most experienced globetrotter feeling exhausted.

The good news, however, is that Crown Relocations is here to help. Celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, Crown  relies on its talented staff and decades of experience helping businesses and individuals relocate and assist you in making a seamless transition to your new life overseas. The company provides a wide range of relocation services to clients prior to, during and after the move, including shipment of household goods, storage facilities, help with immigration procedures, language training and even pet relocations.

Beginning your Korean adventure

Crown’s team in Seoul has been helping expats settle in the Korean capital since 1998. One of the world’s great cities, Seoul can be a bit daunting for newly arrived expats trying to make their way around for the first time. The metropolis is sprawling, the public transportation system is extensive and communication is often rendered difficult due to the language barrier.

This is where Crown steps in.

Crown’s services begins with your personal Move Manager who will guide you through the entire relocation process in the comfort of your home country. Crown will also survey your home to help you decide what’s best to take with you and what’s best left behind. Once that is completed, a fully trained packing team will pack up your things and safely ship them to Korea.

From transportation to intercultural services

Crown began as a moving company, and this heritage business still forms the core of Crown Worldwide Group’s extensive menu of services. The company owns and operates over 200 facilities in almost 60 countries, ensuring secure handling of personal belongings. Crown’s “Move Management” system and “One Point of Coordination” structure simplifies the moving process by providing informed and responsive service, from pre-move planning through to settling into the new home. What’s more, Their unique online tracking tool lets you know where your belongings are in real time.

Pet owners should rest at ease, too. With a network of pet transfer specialists, Crown attends to all registrations, special travel requirements and medical regulations, and guides you through these details, so you can feel confident that Fido will arrive at his new home safe, sound and happy.

Crown’s settling-in services give prospective expats a chance to learn about their new destination prior to the big move and, importantly, find the perfect accommodation to fix the client’s budget and needs. Preview trips arranged by expert consultants take you on a fact-finding trip to Korea (or any of 60 other destinations) so you can get a feel for how things are done. Its property services, meanwhile, advise clients on finding a place to live. With extensive contacts in the local housing market, they can easily take care of the formalities of securing a new home. Crown also helps you set up bank accounts, organize basic utilities, get a driver’s license and even provides an orientation service so you can get to know your new neighborhood.

Employee and family support

A common concern for expatriates with families is education. Here, too, Crown Relocation strives to ease the client’s stress. Its relocation specialists provide inside information on local schools, arrange visits and coordinate admissions.

Crown also provides a range of intercultural training programs. This includes executive coaching programs tailored to specific challenges faced by executives working in a new culture and communication classes to help make you better understood in your new country. Language training, meanwhile, gives you greater confidence in both business and social situations.

FYI> www.crownworldwide.com, T. 02-796-5717

Written by SEOUL staff

Dragon Hill Spa offers couples a convenient all-in-one dating experience

Spas and jjimjilbang (heated stone rooms) have long been a traditional way to relax and enjoy the comforts of friends and family in Korea. Over the past few years, however, they’ve evolved into a popular spot for couples by catering to the needs of the romantically inclined. What better date could there be than spending hours being pampered alongside your loved one?

Seoul boasts a large number of spas and saunas, but Dragon Hill Spa stands out for having a full range of leisure facilities under a single roof, open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Located just outside Yongsan Station, it’s one of the largest saunas in the country, with eight full floors of things to do, from playing video games to swimming to napping. While many jjimjilbang in Korea have different themed rooms and baths, few can offer the same astounding variety of services available in a single visit as Dragon Hill.

Dating has never been so posh, or so easy

Dragon Hill Spa’s dramatic bamboo-lined walkway brings visitors to the lobby where they can decide on the regular admission fee to the sauna facilities, or a package deal that includes such services as massages and beauty treatments. Visitors are then given a bracelet that functions as both a locker key and a tracker for services, snacks and everything else they may need during their time in the sauna. Instead of paying for each extra item, everything is scanned onto the bracelet and paid for at the end of the visit.

Along with the key, visitors to Dragon Hill Spa also receive towels and comfortable clothes to wear in common areas, giving couples a chance to try one of Korea’s most endearing fashion statements – matching outfits. After securing your shoes in the entryway’s crystal-festooned locker area, head to the changing room and bathhouse areas. One of the few sex-segregated spaces in the spa, even these are stuffed with ways to keep busy. Both the men’s and women’s sides include different kinds of healing baths and saunas. One of Dragon Hill’s more unique features are the outdoor baths where natural breezes provide a refreshing contrast to the hot water. Couples with kids aren’t left out of the fun, either, with a dedicated kid’s bath in the women’s section, and a family spa available for the whole family.

Loads of luxury under one roof

After soaking and primping, couples can change into the shirts and shorts provided and meet up in the jjimjilbang areas. In the sprawling main area, lovers can nap together on the warm floor, catch their favorite drama on a big-screen TV, peruse comic books or exorcize their stress in side-by-side massage chairs. Those who’d rather sweat their stress away can do so at any temperature they like, with the Traditional Charcoal Hardwood Kiln rooms running from mild to blistering. Couples looking to heat things up can increase their circulation by cooling off in the Ice Room. For the ultimate in luxury and even more relaxation, Dragon Hill Spa has a variety of massage and beauty treatments through their Royal Orchid Spa, including shiatsu, sport, aroma and foot massage.

The game is on

Dragon Hill Spa has whole range of video and other entertainment options in their game zone. You can shoot some hoops, repel an alien invasion or whack a mole in this expansive arcade area, which also has several air hockey tables, dancing and drumming games, and even private singing booths. Head downstairs to find the PC room, cinema hall, screen baseball game and even a target practice area, providing the competitive couple with a chance to show off their skills to each other.

The food of love

If your dream date demands food, don’t despair. Snack bars are located throughout the building, where you can scan in and get traditional spa treats like smoked eggs and sikhye (sweet rice punch). If your beloved’s stomach is really grumbling, though, there is a full-service Korean restaurant, Il Poom Myun Ok, on the first floor, and a bar with grilled meats and fried foods in the rooftop Sky Garden.

More info

FYI> www.dragonhillspa.co.kr
02-792-0001 (Korean), 010-4223-0001 (English), 010-4223-0002 (Japanese), 010-8991-8688 (Chinese)
Open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year Adult admission is KRW 11,000 from Monday thru Friday, from 5 AM to 8 PM, but rises to KRW 13,000 at night and on weekends. Admission for children is KRW 6,000. Parking fees and towel, locker and clothing rental are included with admission.

GO> Dragon Hill Spa (40-710 Hangangro 3-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul) is located just 30 meters outside of Yongsan Station, Exit 1. Turn right after descending the stairs, cross the street and look for a pair of stone lions guarding a bamboo-lined walkway.

Written by  Jennifer Flinn
Photographed by Romaine John

‘Taegeukgi: The Korean Flag Throughout History’ presents the story behind Korea’s national banner in an easy-to-read way

To mark the 70th anniversary of Korea’s liberation from colonial rule and to remember the lessons learned from the past Seoul Selection has released Taegeukgi: The Korean Flag Throughout History. The accordion book is a compilation of 42 historical images of the Korean flag assembled by U.S.-based collector Lee Byung Kun, an IT specialist who has amassed roughly 800 Korean-flag related items since 2009.

Fluttering against the backdrop of the blue sky, the Korean flag, or Taegeukgi, evokes feelings of not only respect and joy but also of sadness. Born as a symbol of national independence, the emblem emerged in the late 19th century at a time when Korea was being threatened by imperialist invasion. The flag, along with the people it represents, witnessed the rise and fall of the Daehan Empire, the theft of national sovereignty by Imperial Japan, the independence movement, liberation from colonial rule and the Korean War.

Even today, 130 years after Taegeukgi’s birth, tensions are rising around Korea as the world’s major powers, including the United States, China, Japan and Russia, face off against one another. The Korean Peninsula continues to be an area of intense political and military interest, and Korea’s future will be greatly influenced by how its policies and diplomacy fit in with those of global superpowers. In this regard, the current situation is little different from how it was when the flag was born, making the release of “Taegeukgi” even more timely.

Postcard from the early 1900s featuring King Gojong and symbols of the Daehan Empire, including the Korean flag

Rare and never-before-seen flags

“Taegeukgi” includes 10 images of the Korean flag never before seen in either the local or international press, with images that were produced in  several other countries around the world, including Japan, France and Spain. Through them, we are offered a rare opportunity to examine conditions at the time in not only Korea but also the broader world.

In these images, readers can see how the flag has changed over time. Academy of Korean Studies Professor Lee Wan Bom, who served as editorial advisor for the book, said, “Through the 42 artifacts in this book, you can discover how the flag has transformed over the course of history, the variety of ways the flag has been used and other interesting facts.”

First calendar produced after Korea’s liberation from colonial rule

Accordion style for easy use

It has been said that today’s youth do not study history to the same extent that previous generations have. Of course, students have little time or opportunity to study history because they are too busy preparing for the university entrance exams or trying to get jobs; it is also possible, however, that their are too few easy-to-read, easily accessible history books for a generation more accustomed to gathering information through study-use comic books, computers and smartphones.

In order to convey these rare images of the Taegeukgi and the history behind them in a manner that is friendly to young readers, Seoul Selection chose to present them in an image-centric art book format. It has also organized and presented the image according to major historic events, while simple captions convey the historical and cultural background of each artificat, as well as how it was made.

Moreover, the accordion format, sized to fit in the palm of your hand, lets you engage with the images in a variety of ways, making reading that much more of an enjoyable experience. English explanations have been included, too, making the book the perfect gift for international friends with an interest in Korean history.

French illustration of the Korean pavilion at the 1900 Universal Exhibition in Paris

More info

TAEGEUKGI:

The Korean Flag Throughout History

Author: Lee Byung Kun

Publisher: Seoul Selection

Pub. Date: June 2015

Pages: 64

Cover: Softcover, accordion-format

Dimensions (in inches): 3.94 x 4.33 x 0.59

Language: Korean/ English

Price: KRW 8,000

Written by SEOUL staff

The 2015 Gwangju Universiade is a chance to discover one of Korea’s most relaxing travel destinations

The summer breeze blows through the bamboo forest, and yellowed leaves begin to fall like party streamers. It’s enthralling, to be sure, but so, too, is the run, an orange starburst poking through the densely packed trees silhouetted in the afternoon light. There’s no rush as you sit beneath a Korean-roofed pavilion and take it all in. As the intoxicating fragrance of the bamboo fills your nostrils, your body begins to feel purer, healthier. A ray of sunlight breaks through the trees, illuminating your face … and warming the soul.

In Gwangju and its environs, life moves slowly – just slow enough for you to rediscover the joy of living.

The birthplace of Korean democracy and one of Asia’s fastest-rising centers of arts and culture, the southwestern city of Gwangju is famous throughout Korea for the beautiful, bucolic landscapes that surround it and its well-developed local cuisine – the best in the country. It’s a land where life moves slowly like the waters of the Yeongsangang River as it sluggishly meanders through the area, giving you time and space to heal physically and spiritually from the stress and pressure of the work week.

From July 3 to 14, the eyes of the sporting world will be on Gwangju as it hosts the 2015 Summer Universiade. Some 10,926 athletes from 115 nations have committed to compete at the event, both the world’s largest multisport event after the Olympics and the wellspring from which roughly half of all Olympic medalists emerge.

An opportunity to shine

A consequence of southwest Korea’s difficult modern history, during which time the region suffered a great deal of discrimination, Gwangju has had relatively few chances to host major international events like the Universiade. Granted, this is beginning to change, but a sporting event of this scale is still a rare opportunity for the city and surrounding region to strut its stuff. “We expect to see 200,000 local and international visitors during the course of the Universiade,” says Kim Hyo-sung, the managing director of Gwangju Metropolitan City’s Culture, Tourism and Policy Office. “We hope that the Universiade becomes an opportunity to boost Gwangju’s image as a city open to the world, a global sports city, a dynamic city where culture is very much alive.”

The Universiade is already making Gwangju and the rest of southwest Korea an even easier place to live and visit as authorities expand the local transportation network, including the early start of high-speed railway service to the region. To avoid the fate of other cities that have hosted major sporting events only to face serious financial difficulties afterwards, the Gwangju Universiade’s organizers have made a conscious effort to use existing facilities to host the 21 types of sports competitions. The opening and closing ceremonies will take place in Gwangju World Cup Stadium, site of Korea’s storied victory over Spain in the 2002 FIFA World Cup. Some nearby apartments have been expanded and renovated to accommodate athletes, coaches and officials. Even new facilities, such as the massive, eco-friendly and architecturally spectacular swimming pool, will be turned over to local universities to operate once the games are over. The new swimming pool will also be used for the 2019 World Aquatics Championships, which will be hosted in Gwangju, too.

City on a hill

Not far from downtown is a quiet, shady hill known to past generations for its many willow trees. The willows are still there, to be sure, but now they are joined by a ceiling of other hardwoods; beneath the canopy, a rare holly bush announces that this is no ordinary place. Atop an old flight of stairs, a stately American-style home looks onto Gwangju’s guardian peak of Mt. Mudeungsan as it looms in the distance. As you sit in the shade of the porch steps and close your eyes, listening to the sounds of the birds and the rustle of the leaves as the breeze blows through the trees, you can picture Robert Wilson, the American missionary doctor who built this home in the 1920s, sitting where you sit now, watching his children play in the grass lawn. “Not a bad way to spend a summer afternoon,” you think to yourself.

Nestled in the shade of leafy Yangnim (“Willow Forest”) Hill, the historic Yangnim-dong neighborhood was the home and base of operations for American missionaries who set up shop here at the end of the 20th century. Many of their beautiful old homes, schools, churches and memorials are still very much around, including the Wilson House, a grand brick residence built by Wilson, kwon for being a pioneer in the treatment of leprosy. An old missionary graveyard sits at the top of the hill, and when you examine the graves, you will notice very quickly that many of those buried there are children, often victims of scarlet fever. The sadness of the site is somewhat offset by the beautiful views of downtown Gwangju and beautiful Mt. Mudeungsan.

Slow living and the scent of bamboo

Just outside of Gwangju is the county of Damyang, a relaxing country town best known for its extensive bamboo forests. In fact, the town will host the 2015 World Bamboo Fair – the highlight event of the bamboo year – from Sept. 17 to Oct. 31. One of Korea’s most beautiful traditional gardens, the 16th -century Soswaewon Garden, is hidden amid one of the town’s bamboo groves. The garden is seemingly lifted from an old painting of the Taoist heavens – you could sit all day in the shade of one of its scenic pavilions, listening to the relaxing gurgle of the water cascading down the granite valley. Here and there, the greens of the forest are accentuated by the yellows and violets of wildflowers.

The Juknokwon Garden, an especially dense bamboo forest covering some 160,000 square meters of hillside, is not only one of the region’s most popular tourist destinations but also a popular filming location for films, TV programs and commercials. This is a place best enjoyed slowly – the forest is crisscrossed by 2.2 km of walking paths, bathed in the shade and refreshing scent of bamboo. Just stroll about and let your worldly concerns fade away.

Not far from Juknokwon Garden is Metasequoia Road, a scenic laneway that, true to its name, is lined by towering metasequoia trees. Like the bamboo forest, the road has proven irresistible to Korean TV and film producers, though some sections of the road have been set aside for pedestrians. If that greenery isn’t enough, a short walk away is Gwanbangjerim Forest, a riverside park full of muku, zelkova, nettle and cherry trees, many of which are several centuries old. Designated by the national forest service as one of Korea’s most beautiful forests, the wooded park is both a lovely place to walk and a popular cycling location.

More info

EAT> Savory slices of pan-fried battered beef, or yukjeon, are a Gwangju specialty. Yeonhwa (T. 062-384-1142), located a short walk from Sangmu Station, serves this dish with some delightfully sour-aged kimchi.
If you are eating in Damyang, two specialties to look out for are fried patties of beef and pork, or tteokgalbi, and rice steamed in bamboo, or daetongbap.

STAY> As a major city, Gwangju has a wide range of accommodations. The plushest digs in town are at the Ramada Plaza Gwangju Hotel (T. 062-717-7000). One really nice place to stay is Damyang’s Jukhyang Village (T. 061-380-2690), a collection of Korean-style homes built near a pond next to Juknokwon Garden.

GO> The fastest way to get to Gwangju from Seoul is via KTX from Yongsan Station (travel time: just under 2 hours). Gwangju’s primary KTX station is Gwangju Songjeong Station.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler