American-born Buddhist monk Chong Go Sunim describes a day in the life at a Korean monastery

Okay, perhaps I am being a bit flippant about it, having spent the last 20-plus years as a monk here, but it’s certainly not a life of drinking tea under pine trees that some people seem to expect. But, if it truly calls to you, you’ll get a chance to learn about spiritual practice and meet some wonderful people. There’ll be challenges and hardships you didn’t expect, but also a chance to grow and become a better person.

Learning from words and spatial energy

The day starts early, between 3:15 and 3:45 AM at most temples. It’s no easier to get out of bed for me than for anyone else. There is no secret, other than “go to bed early!” Even then, some mornings I have to visualize myself sitting up and then moving before it will happen. Laying in bed and waiting for my body to move of its own accord doesn’t work very well.

If you live at one of the large meditation halls or sutra study halls, then you may be sleeping in a large, Korean-style room with 10 or more people. It’s easier to get going in the mornings because someone turns on the lights and everyone else is moving around, getting dressed and putting away the traditional Korean bedding. There’s only one downside to sharing the same room: snorers, although if they’re really bad, they usually get exiled to a different room.

Morning service follows soon after, with just enough time to wash your face and get a drink of water. Everyone makes their way to the Dharma Hall and takes their regular seat, usually kneeling. At some larger temples, the service begins with a large bell being struck 33 times. Some temples strike a cloud-shaped bronze plate instead, but many temples skip these and start with the smaller bell inside the Dharma Hall. A large, outdoor bell can be heard clearly for more than a kilometer, so if the temple is in a city, the neighbors may not be so happy with you. Especially at 4 AM!

Sitting there in the quiet, listening to the bell is one of my favorite times, particularly when the electric lights are off and the only light is from the candles in front of the Buddha statue. There’s something very profound there that I can only guess at. Sometimes, I think that the sincere spiritual practice of Buddhists over decades or centuries has left a residue or an echo. It’s as if the Dharma Hall has absorbed that energy and now radiates it back.

The service itself calls all beings together, encouraging them to remember the truth that we all have a great treasure within us. The chanting reminds us that we are all inherently complete and part of the same whole. “Find this! Find this!” it seems to call out.

Remembering this, and learning to live in accordance with it, is the purpose and essence of spiritual practice. Sometimes we learn this from the words of the texts, and sometimes we learn this from the energy of the place.

Work never stops

Morning service usually lasts around 30 minutes. Afterward, some temples will have sitting meditation, others will have sutra chanting and at still others nothing formal is scheduled. Sometimes Korean monks and nuns will do their cleaning or other chores during this time. Those who work in the kitchen will head back there now to help the head cook, who started work at around 3 AM!

The amount of work it takes to maintain a temple beggars belief. There’s always something that needs doing. Rooms, halls and courtyards have to be cleaned once or twice daily, fruit needs to be carried up to the Dharma Hall and then back, there are ceremonies to conduct or attend and an endless number of other tasks to complete. In the midst of this, if you can find some time to learn Korean, so much the better.

Breakfast is at 6 AM in nearly all temples. It can be very formal and traditional, using the four bowls called baru. Or it may be simply cafeteria style, with aluminum food trays that look like military surplus.

Dietary adjustments

Food is one of the harder things about being a monk or nun in Korea. You may think you like Korean food, but wait until you’ve eaten it three times a day for a year! Most foreign monks and nuns find that they need to have something familiar at least once or twice a day.

If there are only foreigners at a temple, this is fairly easy to do. If you’re at a Korean temple that has only Korean food, however, it’s usually necessary to eat lightly with the other monks and then eat something more familiar afterwards, such as oatmeal or peanut butter-and-jelly sandwiches.

Some Koreans won’t understand this and will suggest that more kimchi or dwaenjang soup will help! But those who’ve been overseas will understand immediately. One monk who was very familiar with traditional Korean medicine explained it to me like this. “Your body was built with the energy of certain kinds of food, so trying to switch foods too suddenly can’t help but cause problems.”

Tea time

After breakfast is the time usually set aside for cleaning. Afterward, monks will sit together on the floor of somebody’s room to drink tea. You may see monks carefully preparing Korean green tea, steeping it and then pouring it, with a small cup for everyone. Or they may be making the dark and earthy Chinese Pu’er tea, which is often more popular in the winter.

These days, it’s not at all uncommon to find the monks making coffee instead. Rather than steeping tea leaves, they’ll be hand grinding the beans and then making a “pour-over,” finally dividing the concentrate among a semi-circle of cups to make an “americano” for everyone there. I rather like this new tradition!

At noon and in the evening there will be more ceremonies. Some temples may have formal meditation periods, and at all temples there will be work to do throughout the day, guests to meet and people to counsel.

So this is a small taste of what life is like for a Buddhist monk or nun here in Korea. I hope you have a chance to experience a bit of this for yourself while you’re here.

Less blame, more positivity

Sometimes I’m asked what advice I can give those who don’t live in a temple or who aren’t interested in Buddhism. There are two things that anyone can work on, and that have the power to completely change your life.

First, don’t blame or resent others.

Second, always view things positively.

Resentment, blame and hate cut us off from others, and like fractals, they can go on without end. The thoughts we give rise to create the world around us and nudge it in the direction of our choosing.

Experiment with these and see for yourself how your heart feels afterward. If you work at it, you may notice joy and laughter coming back into your life!

More info

American-born Chong Go Sunim was ordained as a Buddhist monk in Korea in 1993. He resides at Hanmaeum Seon Center in Anyang, where his duties include translating Buddhism-related texts into English.

www.hanmaum.org

Written by Chong Go Sunim

From upscale pubs to home brewing, Julia Mellor of Makgeolli Mamas & Papas Korea will help you navigate the transforming makgeolli scene

For anyone who has been in Korea for any period of time, inevitably they are introduced to one of its representative traditional alcohols, makgeolli. While most people will hear the descriptions “rice wine” or “farmer’s drink,” few actually get the opportunity to really understand this unique beverage. More often than not, our newcomers are warned off the brew by seasoned drinkers, each with their own harrowing tale of a horrendous hangover. There is more to makgeolli than frighteningly cheap green bottles and bad headaches, however. The industry itself is entering a period of enlightenment and development in terms of craft and quality, one that expats are playing an increasingly influential role in.

Sharing a Korean favorite with the community

Flashback to four years ago, and two expats who then knew nothing about makgeolli hatched a plan. We wanted to know more about this drink, but more than that, we wanted to share the information we’d learned with others in the English-speaking community. Makgeolli Mamas & Papas Korea (mmpkorea.wordpress.com), affectionately known as MMPK, began as an open community for sharing Korean traditional alcohol experiences and pooling what little information was available at the time. Instead of getting lost in all the different bottles – inevitably forgetting what was consumed – we began compiling data and recording every little tidbit learned. And whatever we learned, we shared with a budding online community of people eager for information both in Korea and abroad.

Gritty drinking goes posh

Just like most things in Korea, change happens quickly. As we began meeting at various bars all over the city every three weeks, we soon started to see how quickly things in the bar scene were changing. For the most iconic makgeolli drinking experience, dark and rough-looking bars with metal kettles – and what many have mistaken for dog bowls – were plentiful. One of the many charms of makgeolli is this rowdy but intimate combination of endless drinks and sharing good times. When the rain falls, like clockwork these bars become packed with people searching out their comfort food and drink, sheltering from the deluge.
While these jumak, as they are called in Korean, can still be readily found, as time went on we saw more and more bars emerge that were giving Korean traditional alcohol a more updated and modern treatment. Not only were new bars serving makgeolli imported from all over the nine provinces in stylish carafes but the accompanying food began to push the envelope beyond the regular pajeon, a makgeolli pairing so ingrained in the Korean psyche it is difficult to imagine one without the other. Deep metal bowls were replaced with smaller ceramic cups, and the loud crowd gave way to first dates and deep conversations. Makgeolli had made its first steps into the world of respectable drinking culture.

More sophisticated makers, sellers

Leading the charge in this development of makgeolli drinking culture are the dedicated bar owners who have actually learned about the nuances of their wares. Passionate and committed to giving their customers an experience beyond what they have come to expect, many bar owners are now studying at various Korean traditional alcohol institutes and developing relationships directly with brewers, who themselves have also grown increasingly sophisticated. In the last five years, for instance, we have seen the rise of artisanal brewing. Successful business people are quitting their jobs to pursue the art of crafting Korean traditional alcohol, creating makgeolli sold in slender glass bottles without artificial sweeteners.
In conjunction with knowledgeable bar owners and skilled brewers, there is a new element helping to shape the future of makgeolli. In contrast to other fermented beverages such as beer, makgeolli brewing can be practiced at home without the need for expensive equipment. While the range of recipes and techniques is vast and varies in difficulty, getting started can require as a little as a rice steamer and plastic vessel. This accessibility has given rise to a fast growing community of home brewers both Korean and non-Korean, domestic and abroad. There are a number of academies in Seoul that teach both the scientific principles of alcohol fermentation and the practical challenges of opening a brewery.
For the average English speaker with an interest in learning makgeolli brewing principles, language can be a barrier. There is, however, an expat organization called Makgeolli Makers that is leading the way in quality traditional alcohol education in English. Coordinating the only English language brewing program in Seoul through the Susubori Academy, Makgeolli Makers has been at the helm of developing not just hands-on curriculum and instruction but also an online forum for international makgeolli brewing enthusiasts. Penning the first English-language publication on makgeolli brewing practices and making it available for free online, Makgeolli Makers has facilitated an unprecedented level of access to Korean traditional brewing knowledge for a wider international audience. Every year they facilitate an Expat Makgeolli Brewer’s Competition, allowing locally based brewing enthusiasts the opportunity to compete and showcase their skills. The mystery of makgeolli is slowly having the curtains pulled back and is being appreciated on many levels.

Celebrating a Korean favorite

So what of the future of makgeolli? Both MMPK and Makgeolli Makers believe the key is in education, awareness and experimentation. The more opportunities there are to taste, learn about and brew makgeolli, the further the industry can develop and improve. As MMPK moves toward tourism for expats and travellers who want to deepen their experience of Korean alcohol, Makgeolli Makers continues to push boundaries and sow the seeds of brewing education. In a small alley of the Jongno neighborhood of Ikseon-dong, a co-op of makgeolli brewers, both Korean and international, has opened a brew space purely for recipe experimentation and development. With the apt name of “Jaju,” meaning “often,” and nestled in an idyllic hanok setting, the group is dedicated to honing their brewing skills and sharing knowledge of the craft. The makgeolli industry is a wheel with many spokes, each with its own role in restoring quality and reviving the traditions of a drink that has so much to give.
In celebration of makgeolli, the last Thursday of every year is dedicated as “Makgeolli Day,” and the industry hosts a festival where brewers from all over the country can showcase their brews. This year they are taking it one step further, creating a weekend-long exhibition of various brews as well as educational experiences on the island of Jarasum in the nearby town of Gapyeong. Expats can take free makgeolli brewing classes with Makgeolli Makers, as well as an MMPK-curated tasting of artisanal brewers. The development of makgeolli has a long road ahead, but the dedication of various players in the industry show it is on the right track.

More info

Three Recommended Bars

Nuruk Namu Insa-dong
This spot offers a wide range of makgeolli labels, from the very cheap to top shelf, making it a perfect spot to get an overview of today’s makgeolli market.
FYI> 02-722-3398

The Manjok Hongdae
Premium makgeolli at reasonable prices, including high-end brews you’ll find nowhere else.
FYI> 010-4724-0009

Muldwinda Chungjeongno
Good makgeolli, stylish atmosphere and very, very good bindaetteok, a perfect pairing for makgeolli.
FYI> 02-392-4200

FYI> Makgeolli Mamas & Papas Korea: mmpkorea.wordpress.com
Susubori Academy: www.susubori.ac.kr
Makgeolli Makers: www.facebook.com/makgeollimakers

Written by Julia Mellor

– Full option studios (20.5㎡).
– Built-in System (wardrobe, air conditioning, refrigerator, washing machine, cook top, curtain
hearing system, free HD81 broadcasting channels and Internet)
– Completely new building (finished July 18, 2013) / minimal noise
– Very close to subway station (3 minute walk from Janghanpyeong Station (Line 5), Exit 8).
– 24-hour security system (55 CCTVs & security guards on 24-hour alert)
– 1 month rent: KRW 750,000 and KRW 850,000 units available / no key money (at least three months rent only). Price includes rent, maintenance and utilities.
– Contact Won at T. 010-6228-9170.

There are several English-language newspapers widely distributed throughout South Korea. Korean magazines written in English, local specialist publications and international magazines are also available. Additionally, the numerous blogs and expat websites provide an enormous source on anything you’d like to know about Korea.

[box_dark]1. Newspapers[/box_dark]

Printed newspapers

The Korea Times

One of the largest-circulation English-language newspapers in Korea. Well-regarded for its up-to-date services on foreign and business news, including economy and finance.
KRW 1.000 a copy.
koreatimes.co.kr/

The Korea Herald
Another major English-language Korean newspaper, is currently being distributed in over 80 countries around the world.
KRW 1.000 a copy.
koreaherald.com/

JoongAng Daily and International Herald Tribune
Quality newspaper providing daily, culture and human interest stories. Also it reports in depth on the foreign community in Korea including business coverage and social activities.
The paper is affiliated with International Herald Tribune, which is distributed along with the JoongAng Daily.
KRW 2,000 a copy.
koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/

Jeju Weekly
Weekly newspaper from island of Jeju.
jejuweekly.com

Online newspapers

Access to articles is free, unless stated otherwise.

Digital Chosunilbo
Online presentation of the Korean daily The Chosun Ilbo.
english.chosun.com/

Dong-a Ilbo
Online service providing Korean news in multiple languages (English, Japanese, Chinese).
english.donga.com/

The Hankyoreh
Independent and progressive newspaper, committed to journalistic freedom, democracy, peaceful coexistence and national reconciliation between South and North Korea.
The newspaper’s ownership is quite unique, too: it’s not part of business conglomerate like many other newspapers, but it’s owned by about 62,000 shareholders who joined the original drive for the paper’s inception.
english.hani.co.kr

The Kyunghyang Shimun
This newspaper investigates activities of the government and Chaebols (conglomerates). They are monitoring abuses of human rights and violations of personal freedom.
english.khan.co.kr/

Yonhap News Agency
Major Korean news service, delivering news to customers, newspapers, broadcasting firms, government agencies and many more. News items range from politics to entertainment.
english.yonhapnews.co.kr/

The Seoul Times
Online English newspaper for foreigners in Korea.
theseoultimes.com

The Korea Economic Daily
Economic newspaper, mostly read by Korean office workers and university students.
english.hankyung.com/

MK Business News (Maeil Business newspaper)
Business newspaper.
news.mk.co.kr/english/

Daily NK
Newspaper with a focus on the future of North Korea. Daily NK sees the people of North Korea as separate from their regime and emphasizes a peaceful unification with South Korea based on democracy and the realization of human rights.
dailynk.com/english/

Korea IT News
Most prominent daily newspaper specializing information technology in Korea, for the purpose of providing a variety of IT portal services on the internet.
english.etnews.com/

Dynamic Busan
Online news on Busan
dynamic.busan.go.kr

Foreign news on Korea:

Asia Times (online newspaper) – Korea section
Publications that report on and examine geopolitical, political, economic and business issues. Look at these issues from an Asian perspective, as opposed to a Western one.
atimes.com/atimes/Korea.html

South Korea News.Net
This online newspaper assembles news on the South Korea area, including stories from around the region and beyond.
southkoreanews.net/

Seoul Daily
Media community that collects news articles from all over the world. Is part of The World News (WN) Network
seouldaily.com/

South Korea News – Ein News (subscription)
Industry, business, and political news.
Subscription: $ 49.95 a month.
world.einnews.com/country/southkorea

Official News:

Korean Government Homepage
Official news, articles on Korean culture and history, paintings, music, and more.
korea.net/

[box_dark]2. Magazines[/box_dark]

Printed Magazines

SEOUL Magazine
Monthly travel and culture magazine that provides in-depth reporting on living in Korea, on travelling, events and cultural news.
magazine.seoulselection.com/

KOREA Magazine
This magazine, published by the Korean Culture and Information Service, provides general information with an emphasis on Korean policy.
korea.net/Resources/Publications/KOREA-Magazines

10Mag
A monthly lifestyle magazine that focuses on activities for the foreign community. All kinds of leisure activities are covered such as exhibitions, concerts, sporting events, dining, nightlife, travel.
10mag.com

Groove Korea
Monthly magazine that covers a range of topics including community, music, sports, travel and food.
groovekorea.com/

Koreana
A quarterly magazine on Korean art and culture. The magazine also deals with other subjects such as the environment and lifestyle.
koreana.or.kr

Korea Post
Monthly magazine on economy and business, agriculture, tourism and society activities. There’s a section dedicated to women as well.
koreapost.com

Global Asia
The print edition of Global Asia is published quarterly, while the internet edition is updated continuously with new articles and contributions.
Global Asia is a publication of the East Asia Foundation, founded in Seoul, and its aim is to give voice to the global dimension of what’s happening in Asia through providing a platform for distinguished thinkers, policymakers, political leaders and business people to debate the most important issues in Asia today.
globalasia.org/

BusinessKorea
Monthly magazine on Korea’s business, economic and financial worlds directed to Korea watchers overseas as well as Korea’s own top decision-makers and business circles.
businesskorea.net/

Eloquence
A monthly art magazine for and about creators that deals with photography, fashion, design, sound, video and many more.
eloquence.co.kr/‎

Art & Seoul
Fairly new non-periodical arts magazine that offers coverage of anything art-, music-, or design-related in Seoul.
artandseoulmag.com

K-Soul Magazine
Quarterly magazine on Korean pop culture (K-pop), with reviews of K-pop concerts, information about going to live shows, drama information, filming locations, and guides for how to take part in the hallyu wave culture.
ksoulmag.com

Busan Haps
Bi-monthly print magazine that provides the reader with the most up-to-date events, attractions, restaurants and nightlife around Busan.
busanhaps.com

Online Magazines

Korea Focus
Monthly webzine, featuring commentaries and essays on Korean politics, economy, society and culture, as well as relevant international issues.
koreafocus.or.kr/

WorknPlay Magazine
As the name suggests, this online magazine provides a free job search facility but maintains an up-to-date entertainment guide too. Essential information for expatriates and short-term visitors is given as well.
worknplay.co.kr/

[box_dark]3. Television and Radio[/box_dark]

Arirang TV and Radio (English, Chinese, Spanish, Korean, Arabic, Russian, Vietnamese, Indonesian)
This government-funded broadcaster provides news and entertainment on Korea for the international community.
arirang.co.kr

KBS World TV and World Radio (Korean Broadcasting System) (English, Chinese, Japanese, French, Spain, German, Other)
Public broadcaster providing informative and entertaining programs to the audience.
english.kbs.co.kr/tv

SBS (Seoul Broadcasting System) (Korean, English, Chinese, Japanese)
Apart from its function as public broadcaster it also distributes a range of corporate channels throughout Korea.
global.sbs.co.kr/en/main/main.htm

AFN (American Forces Network) Pacific
Popular entertainment programs and command internal information networks used by the United States Armed Forces Radio and Television Service (AFRTS).
test.afnpacific.net/Home.aspx

EBS (Educational Broadcasting System) TV and Radio
Broadcasts educational contents for every age
global.ebs.co.kr/eng

TBS (Traffic Broadcasting System) Radio
24-hour English radio for citizens of Seoul and surrounding areas, on local information, current affairs, entertainment and culture.
tbs.seoul.kr/ENG/

SkyLife (Korean and English)
Digital satellite broadcaster that provides over 150 specialized channels from anywhere in the country of movies, education, children’s programming, sports, news and music with high definition picture and sound.
skylife.co.kr/eng

MBC (Munhwa Broadcasting Corporation) TV and Radio
Public broadcaster both active in Korea as in about 30 foreign countries.
aboutmbc.imbc.com/english/

[box_dark]4. Blogs[/box_dark]

When it comes to blogs on Korea, it seems like the choice is never-ending.
The following blogs are among the best rated expat-blogs:

– On the Seoul Searching blog by Mimsie Ladner you can find articles on destinations, travel tips, shopping, entertainment, culture, events, food and people. Mimsie’s blog is appealing for the eye and is – not unimportant – well organized.
myseoulsearching.com/

– Written by Seoul Selection’s own magazine editor Robert J. Koehler, The Marmot’s Hole presents a healthy crossroads of Korea and the Western world. Robert maintains a vigilant eye on Korean media as well as western perspectives. Apart from political, social and media matters, the author also does travel-related photo essays from time to time.
rjkoehler.com/

– If you want to consult a blog on Korean food, ZenKimchi is the place to be.
The experienced team of writers and experts working on ZenKimchi has been consulted for and has written for media such as The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal and several Korean journals.
zenkimchi.com/

– Chris in South Korea (although he recently left South Korea) is packed with information and is an excellent resource for any expat.
chrisinsouthkorea.com/

– Run by a young Canadian married couple, Eat Your Kimchi is the place to go for information on K-pop and quirky videos on life in Korea. Although their quirkiness can be a little too much at times, their enthusiasm is contagious.
eatyourkimchi.com

– Named the “Best Korean Travel and Culture Blog” by the Korea Tourism Organization, Discovering Korea by Matt Kelley is definitely worth a look around. It’s an excellent source of information for travel destinations in and outside of Seoul.
discoveringkorea.com/

[box_dark]5. Other useful websites[/box_dark]

– Galbijim Wiki is a collaborative Wiki community which holds almost thousand articles of advice on living, working, and traveling in Korea.
wiki.galbijim.com/Main_Page

– Korea4expats is a very detailed and informative website, providing virtually everything one needs to know on living and working in Korea.
korea4expats.com/

– AngloINFO, similar to Korea4expats, holds a great amount of information on living, working and other things you need to know in Korea.
seoul.angloinfo.com/

– Koreabridge serves as an information- and community-portal for all of Korea. It collects already existing Korea-related content and also provides a space for the users to add some information themselves.
koreabridge.net

– The Official Korean Tourism Organization provides a great deal of useful information on its website. Admittedly, you might have to do some additional research yourself – sometimes the links to other websites or contact information isn’t up to date – but the website’s basically a travel guide on its own.
The website is available in other languages apart from Korean and English: Chinese, Japanese, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Thai and Arabic are provided as well.
english.visitkorea.or.kr