Expat theater takes center stage

Change is afoot within the Seoul theater scene. While contemporary Korean productions have thrived in the city for decades, recent years have seen a dramatic increase in both the quality and quantity of works emerging from the local expat community.

Humble beginnings

The seeds of this current creative climate stretch back over fifteen years, when a group of foreign English teachers of varying theatrical backgrounds sought to put on a play. Initially, their shows were small in scope and predominantly performed in bars. Even back in the early 2000s, Seoul had already amassed a healthy population of foreigners, most of who were ESL teachers or stationed with the U.S. military. For them, English theatre was a rare treat.

As the scale of their productions grew, this original group banded together under the moniker of Seoul Players, an expat-run theater company that is still going strong today. Their current slate entails a minimum of three productions per year, all of which are performed in theaters to professional industry standards.

While their main stage show took place early in the spring, they still have two upcoming events set to open in 2018. The first is the “Rocky Horror Picture Show,” which goes up in late October. This shadow-cast performance is widely regarded as one of the best Halloween parties in town. The second is their annual Ten Minute Play Festival, which this year received a staggering 380 submissions, a new record for the company. These have been whittled down to the best sixteen scripts, all of which will be performed over a series of nights mid-November. Both shows have upcoming auditions that are open to the general public.

All the world’s a stage

In the wake of Seoul Players, countless other expat-led companies have taken shape within the city. The influx of these groups has been a direct, if not unexpected, side effect of the growing ESL industry. For most English teaching jobs in Korea, the required prerequisite is a bachelor’s degree. However, it is rarely stipulated that this qualification need be based in education. While those in more “professional”-oriented degrees (law, medicine, etc.) tend to secure employment back home, the allure of steady work and the chance to live abroad has become an exceedingly popular option for students graduating from the arts. The result has birthed an expat community rich with actors, dancers and musicians, all with a reliable income and time to spare on creative pursuits. This is a talent pool comprised of artists from all around the world, eager to come together and contribute towards culturally diverse, high-end production companies.

One such group is Starlight Productions. Providing a unique hybrid of theater and burlesque, their creative output (along with their crowds) has seen a steady increase since they stormed their way onto the scene with their first show in 2015. Through locally sourced scripts and an abundance of non-binary queer characters, they challenge their audience’s notions of sexuality and herald body positivity on high. Their upcoming show, “Drop Drag Gorgeous,” is set to open this November.

Another company on the rise is The Collective. With a firm focus on diversity, they provide underrepresented artists with a means to collaborate, grow and foster new bonds within the local creative community. Going up this November, their production of “Romeo and Juliet” is already set to be unlike any you’ve seen before. The script has been flipped, with the show now set in a matriarchy and the two titular characters being portrayed as lesbian lovers. They also happen to be hosting their annual fundraiser this September, an epic party at Emu Artspace that promises to showcase some of the best musical talent in Seoul.

With each new batch of ESL teachers comes fresh creative blood. While the current expat theater companies will only continue to thrive here, the scene is ripe for the unexpected, ready to be defined by the next wave of foreign artists seeking to stake a claim upon the stage. Buckle up, sit back and enjoy the show.

Seoul Players

Website: www.seoulplayers.org

Facebook: www.facebook.com/SeoulPlayers/

Instagram: @seoulplayers

Starlight Productions/House of Tease

Website: www.starlightburlesque.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/1215749935219287/

Instagram: @houseoftease.com

The Collective

Website: www.discoverthecollective.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/discoverthecollective/

Instagram: @discover_thecollective

Written by S. C. Clarke
Photographed by Robert Michael Evans

Four years ago, when the area between Samgakji and Namyeong subway stations hadn’t yet been christened with the name Yeoljeongdo, or Passion Island, it resembled a ghost town following a failed redevelopment project. Today, a positive vibe has replaced the desolate atmosphere in Yeoljeongdo, a part of Wonhyo-ro 1-ga, Yongsan-gu. In November of 2014, young entrepreneurs opened six eateries in what was then an underdeveloped area known for its old printing factories. Even though the neighborhood looked bleak, the shop owners believed that they could draw people to the area with their hearty efforts, and thus named it after their own passion to make their businesses successful in what was then an isolated area surrounded by high-rise buildings (a metaphorical island). As their story became known to the media, the name stuck. Today, the number of shops in Yeoljeongdo has gone up sevenfold, including the shops in the back alleys, which attract visitors fond of all things retro.

Eating and hanging out

The typical destinations for food and drink include Gamjajip, which is located on the main street and is famous for its various flavored fried potatoes and dipping sauces — a perfect accompaniment to beer. Yeoljeongdo Jjukkumi, which you’ll find when you spot the rough, black handwriting on a white signboard, serves a spicy octopus dish cooked in an iron pan. And Dagagujutaek, a second-floor beerhouse, where the structure of an old household is well preserved, provides a unique ambience. Coffee Banjeom, located on one of the side alleys, is an exotic Taiwanese-style café that turns into a pub at night and gives the impression of a shop in Chinatown at first glance.

For those who may not want to eat per se, but still feel like hanging out, recommendations include Boombox. With an eye-catching exterior in the shape of cassette player, this craft beer shop takes music requests. Lari and Kelly, located at the starting point of the main street from the Samgakji Station side, is a pet-friendly brunch café. You can enjoy brunch with your pup at your side while admiring intriguing paintings of dogs. Supplies for cleaning up after your pet are also available here. Comcom-oraksil is an amusement arcade where you can play old 16-bit video games like Boggle Boggle, Wonder Boy and Tetris for only KRW 500. Last but not least, Duhwadang is a soymilk and dessert café decorated with a wide variety of vintage items, including a vintage dish collection, and a door of a cabinet inlaid with mother-of-pearl hanging on the wall like an exclusive handcrafted frame. Its drink and dessert menu — all made of soymilk — is only one part of the café’s exquisite attention to detail.

Gongjang Night Market

On the last Saturday of every month, the Gongjang Night Market is held in Yeoljeongdo to boost community. The name of the night market also came from the origin of the area. Gongjang means “factory” in Korean, but this gongjang is a homonym using different Chinese characters indicating an empty space that recalls what this area used to be. The night market is held from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. from March to October. Sellers and buskers of food, fashion accessories, stationery and decoration items, who are not based in this area, join the market to entertain visitors. The list of artists and sellers is posted prior to the occasion on their Facebook page, so please check before visiting.

Despite all its renewed energy, Yeoljeongdo can be hardly described as an area of refined, sophisticated shops. But if you are looking for a place where you can spend a laid-back evening, Yeoljeongdo is a noteworthy choice to enjoy Samgakji.

More Info

Yeoljeongdo

Baekbeom-ro 87-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | Ten-minute walking distance from Samgakji Station (Line 6)

www.facebook.com/thepassionisland

Written by Lee Sang-ah
Photographed by Robert Koehler

For the wine curious, the best moments are often chance encounters: stumbling into a small wine shop in a remote corner of Seoul or coming across a restaurant with a list of wines one has never heard of. Such opportunities are few and far between in Seoul, where the culture of wine is still developing. A small number of dedicated importers and passionate amateurs are on a mission to change this though, and it is not impossible to find wines made in unexpected regions or with unheard of grapes as a result. We walk you to four of these wine-curious’ lairs; from nerdy wine clubs to glamorous restaurants, they will expand your wine palate.

Cabo da Roca

With the notable exception of fortified wines such as port, which have been around for much longer, dry wines from Portugal are just being discovered in Korea. Bottle store and education center Cabo da Roca is nurturing that discovery with program that looks into Portugal’s wine culture and shows the pairing potential of its wines with Asian food. Occasional master classes by Portuguese sommeliers allow for fascinating exploration of lesser known regions or grapes (Alicante Bouschet anyone?), and regular wine tastings focus on Portuguese wine’s spairing potential with Korean cuisine among others. A chat about Portuguese wines with friendly shop owner Oh Seung Kim should get you nicely started on the topic. Ask him when the next tasting event is.

Gangnam-daero 107-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul | www.facebook.com/cascawine

Moselwein Ring

Moselwein Ring can translate from the German as “The Gang of the Mosel Wines,” which fits the mob-leader fervor Sung-chan Yang displays when talking about his passion. “If I had to choose one last glass of wine before dying, it would be a Riesling from Mosel,” the bespectacled thirty-something half-jokingly declares. Yang set up the Ring with two friends — one of whom is based in Germany’s most famous wine region — to share his passion for Mosel wines in his home country. Wines have been produced in the Mosel Valley since Roman times, where the cool climate and slate soils give them unique and much sought-after characteristics. White wines made from Riesling grapes from the region have cult status with their famous combination of silky texture, floral notes and neverending acidity. The Moselwein Ring organizes various tastings based on specific sub-regions or vintages, which they host at monthly events at different restaurants and wine bars across the city. Their tastings often boast wines that are otherwise impossible to find in Korea. Needless to say, pre-booking is essential.

Address: variable; usually announced 15 days prior to the event through their Facebook page | www.facebook.com/MoselweinRing

Buenos Aires

Diners at Buenos Aires are treated with alluring tango shows by professional dancers. The restaurant’s harnessing of the Argentinian capital’s appeal does not stop there though, and the fascination endures on the plate — their steaks routinely receive rave reviewss. Of course, there’s the wine. Located on the foothills of the Andes mountain range, Argentina’s grape-growing regions are among the highest in the world. Mostly made from Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentinian reds are often described as opulent with fruit-forward characteristics — think ripe plum for example — with touches of spice and mild tannin. Buenos Aires stocks a wide selection of these and other Argentinian wines in a cellar next to the restaurant. Its manager, Esteban Bae, will be happy to help you chose a bottle that best fits your taste and your budget.

Bongcheon-ro 62-gil, Gwanak-gu, Seoul | www.buenosaires.co.kr

Wine Cave at Gwangmyeong Cave

Although still relatively unknown, Korean wines — not to be confused with sweet fruit wines that are not made from grapes, but other fruit — have been around since the 1990s. Korean wineries are mostly located in the Yeongdong region, in the middle of the country, where grape varieties you’ve probably never heard of are used to make wine. Wine Korea’s Chateau Mani — yes, the brand also behind the natural cosmetics line — is the largest producer of Korean dry wines, although several smaller wineries are also of interest. A good place to get started with Korean dry wines in Seoul is the Wine Cave at the gigantic theme park Gwangmyeong Cave, located south of the city. The old gold mine-turned-theme park has a large section dedicated to all sorts of local wines. The ideal way to sample different wines there is to have lunch at the restaurant.

142 Gahak-ro 85beon-gil, Hagon-dong, Gwangmyeong-si, Gyeonggi-do | 070-4277-8902 | cavern.gm.go.kr

Written by Hadrien Diez
Photographed by Anuj Madan

The bustle of the city fades quickly as you stroll through one of the paths at Olympic Park. Instead of the blare of sirens and the vroom of engines, birdcalls amidst a mild breeze surround you, and lush green trees and colorful flowers welcome you. Olympic Park may not be the first destination you might think of when in Songpa-gu, but the serenity and inner peace that this park offers is reason enough for Seoulites to visit. Moreover, Olympic Park — home to a variety of animals that are hard to find in urban areas such as woodpeckers and raccoons — epitomizes the dynamic city of Seoul, packed with history, leisure and culture.

Rich in history

Olympic Park, managed by the Korea Sports Promotion Foundation (KSPO) was planned and constructed on the historic site of Hanseong Baekje, one of the ancient nations of the Korean Peninsula. This historic site of Baekje culture has changed a lot since it was confirmed as the site for the 1988 Seoul Olympic Stadium to become what it looks like today. Amid the efforts to refurbish the area, Mongchontoseong Fortress, an earthen fortification surrounded by a deep moat from the third to fourth century, the era of Hanseong Baekje, was restored based on historical research. Precious relics and remains, including Baekje earthenware, weapons, fishing hooks, and stone mortars were excavated inside the wall. These valuable historical artifacts are on display at both the Mongchon Museum of History and the Seoul Baekje Museum (open Tuesday to Sunday, free admission) in a corner of the park. Recently, Olympic Park has been adopting eco-friendly methods to maintain the park to preserve its past and present for coexistence between humans and nature, slowly transforming it into an ecological park.

Sports for all

Olympic Park is also well known for its promenade. A housewife in the neighboring area who asked to stay anonymous said that she visited the park to exercise almost every day. Strolling through the park is relaxing, away from the complexity of the city, she said. There are five different walking courses across the park’s 1.421 square kilometer site, and a “stamp tour” is available to browse the top nine highlights of the park. A little sweat pays off with a small gift when the participants stamp the marks on the designated pamphlet with the proper seals at the nine highlights. The stamp tour course normally takes about two hours on foot, but there’s one more reward — while walking along the path in this eco-friendly park, participants can always be surrounded by green.

Fitness facilities to enhance people’s wellbeing by helping them to improve their health is also one of the missions of this park. The swimming pool at Olympic Park boasts longer and deeper lanes then most local pools. Avid swimmers who want to experience the internationally standard 50-meter lane should take note because swimming pools open to the public in Seoul mostly have 25-meter lanes. Other sports facilities such as indoors tennis courts and a gymnastics stadium are also open to the public so that they can improve their health through leisure activities in a safe, accessible place.

Art and nature

Almost 200 pieces of sculpture made by international artists are on display throughout the vast area of the park. As the artworks were selected from the International Sculpture Symposium and the International Sculpture Invitations, which were held as culture and art events of the 1988 Seoul Olympics, Olympic Sculpture Park was born on a global scale. Descriptions of the artwork are kindly provided in both Korean and English to help the international audience to appreciate them. Massive artworks displayed in the outdoor space give the audience the illusion of being in an artistic space in nature. Several sports complexes and halls are also used as venues for music concerts and performance. Concerts or events such as Sound City (international artists) and Genie Music Festival (Korean hip-hop and R&B) are slated to be held in the SK Handball Stadium this July. As all different sorts of events are scheduled to take place in various spots of the park, please check the website to find the relevant information.

Urban green space

How long has passed since you last heard birds sing? You don’t need to go far. Even the sound of flowing water — which you’d normally hear near a brook or in the middle of the mountain — can be heard in this ecological park, where nature is in harmony with history, leisure and culture. Olympic Park is a good choice as a free time destination for all generations.

More Info

Olympic Park

424, Olympic-ro Songpa-gu, Seoul
T. 02-410-1114 | www.olympicpark.co.kr

Written by Lee Sang-ah
Photographs courtesy of KSPO&CO

Seoul has always been a night city in my eyes. There are shopping centers that are open 24 hours a day, people heading out for drinks with coworkers, families out enjoying dinner at their favorite restaurants, and there are lights everywhere. Night is the best time to see the city at its liveliest, but also at its most beautiful.

It’s easy to get lost in the crowd of people, especially in the streets of Seoul, but sometimes you just need to step back and find a nice rooftop bar with a view like this one in the middle of Jongro. There you can watch people go about their evening, having a laugh with friends, commuting to the next bar, or simply hanging outside a convenience store having a drink with friends.

The jumbled and crowded stores with criss-crossing cables may not be appealing to most people’s eyes, but it is part of the city and is beautiful in its own way. Sometimes while walking down these old alleys, you come across beautiful views that you will not find in more polished areas.

Seoul is a busy city with Jongro being the epicentre of activity during the evening. Jongro is one of the areas I enjoy shooting due to all the neon and LED lights all around. There are many people who head there after work for dinner or a drink with friends. Despite there being so many people, it’s not difficult to find intimate moments like this: a couple walking home after a night of socializing.

Gangnam has become synonymous with Seoul thanks to the hit song “Gangnam Style.” The Coex is located right outside Samseong Station, and its glitz and glamour are hard to miss. SM town, the cultural hub of SM Entertainment, is located directly behind it, so once people are done shopping, they hope to catch a glance of their famous K-pop artists.

When most people think of Dongdaemun, they think of the newly built spaceship-looking building. But Dongdaemun is actually an extremely large area that also caters to the locals. There was a man walking. Lured by the hof hosts, he took a look and decided it was the place for him.

Motorcycle delivery is a staple of Seoul life. Restaurants have their own deliveryman or may be associated with a food delivery system allowing Seoulites to order anything they would like. In this shot, I came across this incredibly lit motorcycle delivery man. It seems almost cinematic on this rainy evening.

Just a short walk outside of Jongro exit 5 you will come across the maze of alleys surrounding Gwangjang Market. It is much less sleek and dark than the neighboring areas. The alleys are quintessentially Korean and something you find less and less as new areas are developed. Getting lost in these pathways is something most tourists never experience, but they should.

Photography and captions by Noe Alonzo

With spring in full swing, there’s no better time to get out and explore the city.

While Seoul has its fair share of reliable hotspots, there’s an undeniable charm in discovering something new. Enter Geumho-dong, a small up and coming burb between Oksu and Yaksu stations. Lit by lanterns spilling out from the local temple, its narrow streets are an eclectic mix of both the traditional and the new. Throw in the recently installed Darak Oksu gardens framing the paths beneath the railway tracks, and you have yourself a suburb with a decidedly different urban flair.

Be it a date, or an intimate night out with friends, the following are a series of certifiable selections for squeezing the most out of your Geumho experience.

Pre-dinner drinks at Chuck’s Tap House

Any respectable evening out always begins with a beer. Located mere meters from Exit 1 of Oksu Station, Chuck’s Tap House is your one-stop destination for those seeking some fancy brews.

There are a total of twenty craft beers on tap to choose from, nine of which come straight from the Whasoo Brewery in Ulsan. Should you find yourself feeling overwhelmed with all the options, the Yuzu Pale Ale is a safe bet for any palate.

Chuck’s outdoor seating provides the perfect place to take a load off, knock back a few well-crafted cold ones and enjoy some company in the warmth of the setting sun. Finger food such as chicken and fried samgyeopsal are available, but for now, keep it low key if you can. The food at our next stop is absolutely worth the wait.

FYI> 377-5 Seongdon-gu, Oksu-dong, Seoul | 02-2281-3943 | Open 1PM to 2AM

Dinner at Mokhwa Dabang

By now you should be buzzing from the craft beers downed at Chuck’s, but all that socialising you’ve been doing has likely left you with an appetite. Thankfully, there’s a stellar fine wine and dining restaurant just a short, ten-minute walk away. Prepare thy tastebuds for the criminally underrated Mokhwa Dabang.

Mokhwa Dabang is a small, stylish venue that bears a distinctively retro vibe. The checkerboard flooring, green leather seats and ambient track lighting instil a homey, yet upper class atmosphere. High quality service by the waitstaff ensures that your every need is taken care of from the moment you walk through the door. A private, curtained off table is also available for those that might be after a more intimate affair.

Head chef and manager Um Sun-young will make sure anything ordered is special, but if you feel like spoiling yourself look no further than the Hanwoo steak. These perfectly seasoned and tender cuts come with a side of shitake mushrooms and a spicy whole grain mustard. For those who fancy their red meat, this is an elegantly prepared dish that you’ll be reminiscing about until your next visit. To watch the magic unfold, you can even watch Um at work from the bar that surrounds his open kitchen. An extensive wine and cocktail menu has been constructed to compliment the food should you wish to keep the booze flowing freely.

FYI> 1288 Seoungdong-gu, Geumho-dong, Seoul | 070-8841-4888 | 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily except Sundays

Winding down by the riverside

With bellies full of food, craft beer, and fine wine, you might be tempted to call it a night and start making your way back home. But let’s not be hasty! The warmer weather provides one of the area’s best options for capping off your evening — a relaxing riverside stroll. It also doesn’t hurt to get a little light exercise in after putting away all that steak.

Entry down to the river can be found by Exit 3 of Oksu station. Bicycles can be rented on the cheap, with designated paths for both pedestrians and cyclists alike. The neon lights of the Dongho Bridge shimmer and sparkle across the Hangang, providing the perfect backdrop for a romantic stroll, or perhaps just a pleasant ambience for snuggling up on a park bench and gazing out across the water.

FYI> Oksu-dong, Seongdon-gu, Seoul | Open all night

Written by S. C. Clarke

Photographed by Robert Michael Evans

After a five-minute walk from Singeumho Station, the steep downward slope begins — how lucky was I to step out at Singeumho Station instead of taking Line 3 to Geumho Station, where I would have had to climb up instead of down! — and soon, an exceptionally new, two-story building dressed in gray hues and cotton candy pink stairs on its side arrests the eyes. It’s in this enticing building that Dave Baik runs mAgnstudio — a comfortable neighborhood café in Geumho-dong where you can share ideas and make new friends.

Inside, a fashion show video projected onto a wall hints of the concept behind the café. As the CEO of Magnolia Creative Lab, a fashion advertising agency, Baik values sharing ideas with others and wants to run a space of versatile use to connect people in and out of his business. Thanks to the small number of tables and chairs, the café can be easily transformed into a photo shoot location, for example.

Most seats are around what Baik calls the “puddle” where colorful cushions are laid out in a circle. This area was inspired by how women did the washing in the past, says Baik. Wives washed clothes together around a brook, and they would share their troubles with others; various kinds of information were shared as well. In the café puddle, seats are designed to allow people to mingle freely with others by moving their seats as they like.

Different ideas converging

A hot pink chandelier adorned with small objects hangs from the ceiling and signifies the identity of this café and its visitors. When Baik first imported the chandelier, there were no decorations. He and his staff decorated the chandelier with small toys from childhood. Pink was also the color in vogue when he opened in December 2016. “As you can see, the chandelier attracts the most attention. The chandelier is a symbol of different ideas converging here, and I hope that each person who comes here can also share in the same experience,” says Baik.

Three menu items stand out at the café. Geumho Hill, also known as a cotton candy latte, is made of fluffy cotton candy that’s melted down by trickling coffee over the top. It’s a sweet thank you to those who make the effort to walk up the hill, says Baik. The recipe is a secret but there are other secrets that are often hidden in the coffee itself. Some request an engagement ring or a red rose be placed in the cotton candy before serving to a special someone. Pink Vienna is served with pink cream over hand-dripped coffee. Last but not least, the honey butter carrot cake with extra-creamy cream cheese frosting was so rich and tasty that I’d be willing to revisit this café — even if I had to climb up the hill.

A revolving glass door leads you to the outside garden, another Instagram-worthy photo location at this café. The garden wall has been recently painted in green to correspond with fashion-color trends. But it won’t just be the colors that will continue to change with evolving fashion styles; all the details in the café will metamorphose along with it. The chandelier, however, will always remain bright pink as the symbol of the café’s beginnings and mission.

More Info.

mAgnstudio

36, Geumhosan-gil, Seoungdong-gu

Instagram: @magnstudio

Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m.–9 p.m.

Written by Lee Sang-ah

Photographed by Robert Koehler

“You are not allowed to bring your bag into the library, you can only have your laptop and writing implement with you,” says the receptionist at CGV Cine Library, Korea’s first film library. “Please leave your identification with us, and we will offer you a locker where you can keep your belongings.”
At first, this writer is put out. Is it really worth the extra trouble to visit this library? However, as soon as I step into the library, I have no other choice, or else to change my mind entirely.
On both sides of the rectangular space — once used as a film-screening theater — are bookshelves densely filled from top to bottom. Rows of seats and tables occupy the middle, and soft interior lighting completes the mood of the library. CGV Cine Library opened in Myeong-dong in 2015. Its mission is to be an exceptional cultural venue of inspiration, relaxation, and communication.
“Through the agency of books, CGV Cine Library intends to be a comfortable space for those who love film, art, music, and photography,” says Hyu-ri Kim, a member of the cinema team at CGV Arthouse.

10,600 volumes and more

The library houses about 10,600 exquisitely selected books and occasionally holds various talks by film professionals. It is the books that are the real appeal for those engaging in creative occupations as well as movie enthusiasts. The library’s collection includes books not just about films, but also about literature and art, which have inspired film in many ways. World literature, books adopted from movies and vice versa, and graphic novels account for 5,565 items of the collection. Hundreds of scenarios, productions designs and storybooks are also available, presenting a more vivid illustration of the film-making process. Art books, accounting for as many as 1,400 of the collection, are also an integral part of the library.
There are featured exhibitions as well. The “Books of My Life” section displays a collection of books selected by high-profile Koreans, including popular actors and actresses, directors and critics. You can find your favorite actor’s recommendations, as well as enjoy discovering who recommended the books you love.

In another section, there are collections of books chosen by three well-known, international award-winning directors. They are Lee Chang-dong, the director of “Peppermint Candy”; Park Chan-wook, the director of “The Handmaiden”; and Kim Jee-woon, the director of “The Good, the Bad, the Weird.” This section provides a rare glimpse into the famous film directors’ works through the scores of books selected by them.
“Library Talk,” one of the featured programs at the library, enables participants to have conversations with directors, actors and film critics after enjoying a film at the theater. Regarding such diverse features of the cine library, Kim says, “CGV Cine Library aspires to be a valuable space enriching the lives of the visitors.”
The library is open Tuesday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m., but opening hours vary in accordance with occasional changes. Looking up the information online beforehand is highly recommended. The entrance fee requires a little attention. Movie ticket holders of CGV Myeongdong Station Cine Library or CGV Myeongdong receive complimentary admission within 15 days before or after the screening date of the ticket. CJ (CJ One) members receive a 1,000-point deduction. And CGV VIP members and CGV Arthouse Club members receive four complimentary visits a month.
Whether you are a movie buff, a bookworm or a big fan of a film master, you will find this library dedicated to film truly inspiring. You may feel a connection with others by seeing the interconnectedness among different fields of art. Or perhaps, new ideas will spring up from this treasure trove of knowledge. This writer now fully understands why the extra care is taken to protect the precious collections of this library.

More Info.

CGV Cine Library
10th, 11th Floor, 123, Toegye-ro, Jung-gu | 1544-1122 | www.cgv.co.kr

Written by Sang-ah Lee
Photographed by Robert Koehler

Bar Oriole

Experience the energy of one of Seoul’s grittier neighborhoods

Extending across a ridge close to the top of Namsan and sloping downwards towards Seoul Station and Sookmyoung Women’s University, Huam-dong is dotted with entertaining nightlife spots within a very much undeveloped area of the city. Anyone tired of the commercial boom coursing through the main Haebangchon strip can take a village bus to the roundabout and explore the several restaurants and cafés along the alley going west with spectacular, sweeping views of Seoul. For those living outside of Seoul it’s a great location with great nighscapes to check out before hopping on that last train out. Far enough from neighboring Haebangchon to merit a separate visit but close enough to share some of the energy, Huam-dong offers fun venues for a memorable evening out.

Bar Oriole

Open now for roughly two years, this second-floor cocktail lounge boasts impressive views of the city while seated at the bar or on the bench along the exterior of the building. With a broad selection of whiskies and spirits and an attentive bartender, the drinks menu won’t leave you wanting. Inside, the café is tiny and it can get rather busy on the weekends, but they do take reservations. Although both spaces share the same name as the Baltimore baseball team’s bird, the first-floor café serves the rooftop and operates independently from the bar. The building is noteworthy for how it’s been remodeled to take advantage of the panoramic views — especially at night.
43, Sinheung-ro 20-gil, Yongsan-gu | 02-6406-5252
| Open daily, 6 p.m.–1 a.m.

Makgeolli Dahm

Outlasting the test of time this whimsical and earnest makgeolli bar has been in business for 15 years. The venue provides an artsy, kitsch setting to enjoy traditional Korean plates that accompany traditional Korean alcohol. A compact menu includes the typical fare with signature plating and their own secret recipe green sauce. In particular, the generous portion of ddeokgalbi is served like a meatloaf rather than shaped like a patty and pairs nicely with any of the specially selected drink options. Mood lighting and jazz tunes complete the picture-perfect date night.
11-10, Hangang-dae-ro 88-gil, Yongsan-gu | 02-798-6104
| 6 p.m.–3 a.m. daily except Sundays.

Huamdong Side

The owner’s dog roams freely in this quaint second-floor bar that’s super cheap and super friendly. The choices might be limited but they cover all the bases with a basic wine and beer menu alongside simple snacks. Seats by the window have a view of the neighborhood, and at KRW 4,000 for a glass of wine, the prices are affordable.
Huamdong, 257-8, 2nd floor | 070-4139-9291
| 7 p.m.–1 a.m. daily except Sundays

Anarchy Bros Cafe & Pub

Free wifi and a clubhouse feel distinguishes this hip neighborhood place hidden in the alley behind the main street. Open all day until late, there are plenty of non-alcoholic drinks to choose from as well. There is a cozy attic for semi-private seating along with cubby holes where you can take off your shoes and a mini enclosed outdoor area convenient for smokers. The atmosphere is laid back with a younger clientele and a relaxing place to spend a Sunday evening after dinner.
36, Duteopbawi-ro 1gil, Yongsan-gu | 070-4069-6356
| 12 p.m.–12 a.m. daily

Gil Bar Dak

Located inside Shin Heung Art Market, this attractive watering hole is the answer for the moody solo drinker looking for camaraderie in a retro atmosphere. Whiskey, cocktails, beer and wine are all available for imbibing until the wee hours so your evening can last until dawn. This bar just opened last September and is located inside a market on the main road. Stroll down or get on the village bus that will take you through the rest of Huamdong.
26-18, Sowol-ro 20gil, Yongsan-gu | 0507-1404-1166
| 7 p.m.–5 a.m. daily

Written by Agnes Yu
Photographed by Robert Michael Evans