Four years ago, when the area between Samgakji and Namyeong subway stations hadn’t yet been christened with the name Yeoljeongdo, or Passion Island, it resembled a ghost town following a failed redevelopment project. Today, a positive vibe has replaced the desolate atmosphere in Yeoljeongdo, a part of Wonhyo-ro 1-ga, Yongsan-gu. In November of 2014, young entrepreneurs opened six eateries in what was then an underdeveloped area known for its old printing factories. Even though the neighborhood looked bleak, the shop owners believed that they could draw people to the area with their hearty efforts, and thus named it after their own passion to make their businesses successful in what was then an isolated area surrounded by high-rise buildings (a metaphorical island). As their story became known to the media, the name stuck. Today, the number of shops in Yeoljeongdo has gone up sevenfold, including the shops in the back alleys, which attract visitors fond of all things retro.

Eating and hanging out

The typical destinations for food and drink include Gamjajip, which is located on the main street and is famous for its various flavored fried potatoes and dipping sauces — a perfect accompaniment to beer. Yeoljeongdo Jjukkumi, which you’ll find when you spot the rough, black handwriting on a white signboard, serves a spicy octopus dish cooked in an iron pan. And Dagagujutaek, a second-floor beerhouse, where the structure of an old household is well preserved, provides a unique ambience. Coffee Banjeom, located on one of the side alleys, is an exotic Taiwanese-style café that turns into a pub at night and gives the impression of a shop in Chinatown at first glance.

For those who may not want to eat per se, but still feel like hanging out, recommendations include Boombox. With an eye-catching exterior in the shape of cassette player, this craft beer shop takes music requests. Lari and Kelly, located at the starting point of the main street from the Samgakji Station side, is a pet-friendly brunch café. You can enjoy brunch with your pup at your side while admiring intriguing paintings of dogs. Supplies for cleaning up after your pet are also available here. Comcom-oraksil is an amusement arcade where you can play old 16-bit video games like Boggle Boggle, Wonder Boy and Tetris for only KRW 500. Last but not least, Duhwadang is a soymilk and dessert café decorated with a wide variety of vintage items, including a vintage dish collection, and a door of a cabinet inlaid with mother-of-pearl hanging on the wall like an exclusive handcrafted frame. Its drink and dessert menu — all made of soymilk — is only one part of the café’s exquisite attention to detail.

Gongjang Night Market

On the last Saturday of every month, the Gongjang Night Market is held in Yeoljeongdo to boost community. The name of the night market also came from the origin of the area. Gongjang means “factory” in Korean, but this gongjang is a homonym using different Chinese characters indicating an empty space that recalls what this area used to be. The night market is held from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. from March to October. Sellers and buskers of food, fashion accessories, stationery and decoration items, who are not based in this area, join the market to entertain visitors. The list of artists and sellers is posted prior to the occasion on their Facebook page, so please check before visiting.

Despite all its renewed energy, Yeoljeongdo can be hardly described as an area of refined, sophisticated shops. But if you are looking for a place where you can spend a laid-back evening, Yeoljeongdo is a noteworthy choice to enjoy Samgakji.

More Info

Yeoljeongdo

Baekbeom-ro 87-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | Ten-minute walking distance from Samgakji Station (Line 6)

www.facebook.com/thepassionisland

Written by Lee Sang-ah
Photographed by Robert Koehler

The bustle of the city fades quickly as you stroll through one of the paths at Olympic Park. Instead of the blare of sirens and the vroom of engines, birdcalls amidst a mild breeze surround you, and lush green trees and colorful flowers welcome you. Olympic Park may not be the first destination you might think of when in Songpa-gu, but the serenity and inner peace that this park offers is reason enough for Seoulites to visit. Moreover, Olympic Park — home to a variety of animals that are hard to find in urban areas such as woodpeckers and raccoons — epitomizes the dynamic city of Seoul, packed with history, leisure and culture.

Rich in history

Olympic Park, managed by the Korea Sports Promotion Foundation (KSPO) was planned and constructed on the historic site of Hanseong Baekje, one of the ancient nations of the Korean Peninsula. This historic site of Baekje culture has changed a lot since it was confirmed as the site for the 1988 Seoul Olympic Stadium to become what it looks like today. Amid the efforts to refurbish the area, Mongchontoseong Fortress, an earthen fortification surrounded by a deep moat from the third to fourth century, the era of Hanseong Baekje, was restored based on historical research. Precious relics and remains, including Baekje earthenware, weapons, fishing hooks, and stone mortars were excavated inside the wall. These valuable historical artifacts are on display at both the Mongchon Museum of History and the Seoul Baekje Museum (open Tuesday to Sunday, free admission) in a corner of the park. Recently, Olympic Park has been adopting eco-friendly methods to maintain the park to preserve its past and present for coexistence between humans and nature, slowly transforming it into an ecological park.

Sports for all

Olympic Park is also well known for its promenade. A housewife in the neighboring area who asked to stay anonymous said that she visited the park to exercise almost every day. Strolling through the park is relaxing, away from the complexity of the city, she said. There are five different walking courses across the park’s 1.421 square kilometer site, and a “stamp tour” is available to browse the top nine highlights of the park. A little sweat pays off with a small gift when the participants stamp the marks on the designated pamphlet with the proper seals at the nine highlights. The stamp tour course normally takes about two hours on foot, but there’s one more reward — while walking along the path in this eco-friendly park, participants can always be surrounded by green.

Fitness facilities to enhance people’s wellbeing by helping them to improve their health is also one of the missions of this park. The swimming pool at Olympic Park boasts longer and deeper lanes then most local pools. Avid swimmers who want to experience the internationally standard 50-meter lane should take note because swimming pools open to the public in Seoul mostly have 25-meter lanes. Other sports facilities such as indoors tennis courts and a gymnastics stadium are also open to the public so that they can improve their health through leisure activities in a safe, accessible place.

Art and nature

Almost 200 pieces of sculpture made by international artists are on display throughout the vast area of the park. As the artworks were selected from the International Sculpture Symposium and the International Sculpture Invitations, which were held as culture and art events of the 1988 Seoul Olympics, Olympic Sculpture Park was born on a global scale. Descriptions of the artwork are kindly provided in both Korean and English to help the international audience to appreciate them. Massive artworks displayed in the outdoor space give the audience the illusion of being in an artistic space in nature. Several sports complexes and halls are also used as venues for music concerts and performance. Concerts or events such as Sound City (international artists) and Genie Music Festival (Korean hip-hop and R&B) are slated to be held in the SK Handball Stadium this July. As all different sorts of events are scheduled to take place in various spots of the park, please check the website to find the relevant information.

Urban green space

How long has passed since you last heard birds sing? You don’t need to go far. Even the sound of flowing water — which you’d normally hear near a brook or in the middle of the mountain — can be heard in this ecological park, where nature is in harmony with history, leisure and culture. Olympic Park is a good choice as a free time destination for all generations.

More Info

Olympic Park

424, Olympic-ro Songpa-gu, Seoul
T. 02-410-1114 | www.olympicpark.co.kr

Written by Lee Sang-ah
Photographs courtesy of KSPO&CO

After a five-minute walk from Singeumho Station, the steep downward slope begins — how lucky was I to step out at Singeumho Station instead of taking Line 3 to Geumho Station, where I would have had to climb up instead of down! — and soon, an exceptionally new, two-story building dressed in gray hues and cotton candy pink stairs on its side arrests the eyes. It’s in this enticing building that Dave Baik runs mAgnstudio — a comfortable neighborhood café in Geumho-dong where you can share ideas and make new friends.

Inside, a fashion show video projected onto a wall hints of the concept behind the café. As the CEO of Magnolia Creative Lab, a fashion advertising agency, Baik values sharing ideas with others and wants to run a space of versatile use to connect people in and out of his business. Thanks to the small number of tables and chairs, the café can be easily transformed into a photo shoot location, for example.

Most seats are around what Baik calls the “puddle” where colorful cushions are laid out in a circle. This area was inspired by how women did the washing in the past, says Baik. Wives washed clothes together around a brook, and they would share their troubles with others; various kinds of information were shared as well. In the café puddle, seats are designed to allow people to mingle freely with others by moving their seats as they like.

Different ideas converging

A hot pink chandelier adorned with small objects hangs from the ceiling and signifies the identity of this café and its visitors. When Baik first imported the chandelier, there were no decorations. He and his staff decorated the chandelier with small toys from childhood. Pink was also the color in vogue when he opened in December 2016. “As you can see, the chandelier attracts the most attention. The chandelier is a symbol of different ideas converging here, and I hope that each person who comes here can also share in the same experience,” says Baik.

Three menu items stand out at the café. Geumho Hill, also known as a cotton candy latte, is made of fluffy cotton candy that’s melted down by trickling coffee over the top. It’s a sweet thank you to those who make the effort to walk up the hill, says Baik. The recipe is a secret but there are other secrets that are often hidden in the coffee itself. Some request an engagement ring or a red rose be placed in the cotton candy before serving to a special someone. Pink Vienna is served with pink cream over hand-dripped coffee. Last but not least, the honey butter carrot cake with extra-creamy cream cheese frosting was so rich and tasty that I’d be willing to revisit this café — even if I had to climb up the hill.

A revolving glass door leads you to the outside garden, another Instagram-worthy photo location at this café. The garden wall has been recently painted in green to correspond with fashion-color trends. But it won’t just be the colors that will continue to change with evolving fashion styles; all the details in the café will metamorphose along with it. The chandelier, however, will always remain bright pink as the symbol of the café’s beginnings and mission.

More Info.

mAgnstudio

36, Geumhosan-gil, Seoungdong-gu

Instagram: @magnstudio

Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m.–9 p.m.

Written by Lee Sang-ah

Photographed by Robert Koehler

“You are not allowed to bring your bag into the library, you can only have your laptop and writing implement with you,” says the receptionist at CGV Cine Library, Korea’s first film library. “Please leave your identification with us, and we will offer you a locker where you can keep your belongings.”
At first, this writer is put out. Is it really worth the extra trouble to visit this library? However, as soon as I step into the library, I have no other choice, or else to change my mind entirely.
On both sides of the rectangular space — once used as a film-screening theater — are bookshelves densely filled from top to bottom. Rows of seats and tables occupy the middle, and soft interior lighting completes the mood of the library. CGV Cine Library opened in Myeong-dong in 2015. Its mission is to be an exceptional cultural venue of inspiration, relaxation, and communication.
“Through the agency of books, CGV Cine Library intends to be a comfortable space for those who love film, art, music, and photography,” says Hyu-ri Kim, a member of the cinema team at CGV Arthouse.

10,600 volumes and more

The library houses about 10,600 exquisitely selected books and occasionally holds various talks by film professionals. It is the books that are the real appeal for those engaging in creative occupations as well as movie enthusiasts. The library’s collection includes books not just about films, but also about literature and art, which have inspired film in many ways. World literature, books adopted from movies and vice versa, and graphic novels account for 5,565 items of the collection. Hundreds of scenarios, productions designs and storybooks are also available, presenting a more vivid illustration of the film-making process. Art books, accounting for as many as 1,400 of the collection, are also an integral part of the library.
There are featured exhibitions as well. The “Books of My Life” section displays a collection of books selected by high-profile Koreans, including popular actors and actresses, directors and critics. You can find your favorite actor’s recommendations, as well as enjoy discovering who recommended the books you love.

In another section, there are collections of books chosen by three well-known, international award-winning directors. They are Lee Chang-dong, the director of “Peppermint Candy”; Park Chan-wook, the director of “The Handmaiden”; and Kim Jee-woon, the director of “The Good, the Bad, the Weird.” This section provides a rare glimpse into the famous film directors’ works through the scores of books selected by them.
“Library Talk,” one of the featured programs at the library, enables participants to have conversations with directors, actors and film critics after enjoying a film at the theater. Regarding such diverse features of the cine library, Kim says, “CGV Cine Library aspires to be a valuable space enriching the lives of the visitors.”
The library is open Tuesday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m., but opening hours vary in accordance with occasional changes. Looking up the information online beforehand is highly recommended. The entrance fee requires a little attention. Movie ticket holders of CGV Myeongdong Station Cine Library or CGV Myeongdong receive complimentary admission within 15 days before or after the screening date of the ticket. CJ (CJ One) members receive a 1,000-point deduction. And CGV VIP members and CGV Arthouse Club members receive four complimentary visits a month.
Whether you are a movie buff, a bookworm or a big fan of a film master, you will find this library dedicated to film truly inspiring. You may feel a connection with others by seeing the interconnectedness among different fields of art. Or perhaps, new ideas will spring up from this treasure trove of knowledge. This writer now fully understands why the extra care is taken to protect the precious collections of this library.

More Info.

CGV Cine Library
10th, 11th Floor, 123, Toegye-ro, Jung-gu | 1544-1122 | www.cgv.co.kr

Written by Sang-ah Lee
Photographed by Robert Koehler

Venture into the twisting, neon-lit alleyways of Euljiro at night, and you may feel like you’ve wandered into a gritty vision of the future à la Blade Runner, complete with an atmospheric electronic soundtrack. If so, you may not be surprised to discover that tucked into the third floor of an old print factory building is one of Seoul’s most pioneering spaces for independent electronic music.

Clique Records is a vinyl record shop selling new and used releases from both home and abroad. Opened in late 2015, it stocks an eclectic selection of electro, ambient, techno and other genres of electronic and alternative music.

The shop is run by a duo of two young DJs and dedicated record collectors: Odd J (Antoine) and DJ 6TS (Curtis). Their motivation to open a brick-and-mortar shop, they say, was “the lack of diversity in the music landscape … it was very difficult to find proper records, and a community started to emerge with this desire to discover more music.” Given that the community was made mostly of underground DJs and musicians, Clique meets their needs by stocking all music purely in vinyl.

Music, not decoration

Vinyl’s resurgence despite the digital age is, of course, old news. The nostalgia-fueled vintage aesthetic that has defined the decade so far is epitomized in vinyl records, which offer not only a feeling of possession but also an aural quality that sharply contrasts with tinny digital streaming. Worldwide vinyl sales reached a 25-year high in 2016 following nine consecutive years of growth.

In Seoul, vinyl sales are driven by both music artists and regular consumers. Clique caters to the former. Its carefully curated stock is the main item on the menu; Clique has no aspirations to become an Instagram hot spot. “We’re very tight on selection. We do not want to be selling records for decoration purposes. This is music, it’s made to be listened to,” says Curtis.

The dedication has paid off. In two short years Clique has expanded by leaps and bounds, not only in their record stock and planning events, but also by adding a listening space/lounge called the Edge earlier this year right next to the record shop. The Edge offers “weekly listening sessions with some of the city’s finest music lovers,” says Antoine, emphasizing the patrons it attracts more than the space itself. Clique also hosts Clique Record Nights, which has welcomed artists such as Antal, Soichi Terada, Young Marco and DK to Seoul for the first time.

But not all of Clique’s sources are from overseas. In fact, Curtis has founded two record labels specifically to press local music for distribution abroad. The first, Braindance Records (its name a reference to the electronic sub-genre of IDM, or Intelligent Dance Music), has already had two releases distributed across Europe, the U.S., and Japan. The second, Daehan Electronics, will “focus on re-issues of Korean alternative electronic and experimental music mostly from the ’80s and ’90s.” Its first release, due in January, will be a re-press of the avant-garde musician Kim Byoung Duk.

Clique’s growth is fueled, claim the duo humbly, by their dedicated audience and visitors. The biggest challenge the local scene faced in the past, says Curtis, is that there was “barely any system to the scene.” People with an interest in electronic music had no space or community where they could create output. Now, Clique offers that space, and many of its patrons are regular weekly visitors.

To experience what they’ve found, visit Clique Records any time from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday, or check out the Edge’s event schedule online.

More Info.
Clique Records / The Edge
334-8 Euljiro 3ga, Jung-gu | www.facebook.com/cliquerecordstore

Written by Seoul Staff
Photographed by Robert Michael Evans and Clique Records

Welcome to the future

Virtual reality is on the rise. After a decades-long slumber following the boom and subsequent crash of the industry in the early nineties, the technology has been given another shot at life thanks to the advent of motion controls and high resolution displays. Now, following financial backing from the likes of Samsung and Facebook, the future of VR’s second wave is bright.

While the driving force of current VR technology focuses on entertainment, upcoming endeavours may encompass everything from social media to elder care. Unfortunately, consumer-level hardware is still on the expensive side, with headsets going for as much as half a million won a piece. But fear not! Seoul happens to be ripe with venues for those seeking a VR fix. These are your best bets in town to experience the tech of tomorrow.

VR Plus Gangnam 브이알 플러스 강남

VR Plus holds the esteemed honour of being the first virtual reality café to open its doors in Seoul. It is a large, brightly lit space, with glass walls that ensure that you’ll never miss anyone maniacally waving their arms around in the midst of a heated game. A contemporary styled café offers desserts, coffee and freshly-squeezed juice should you find yourself feeling famished between bouts in the digital realm. All current iterations of VR hardware are available for use, with separate sections set up for the Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Playstation VR and even a few custom-built attractions. Most importantly, these areas are uncluttered and obstacle-free, allowing patrons to enjoy full room-scale experiences in a way rarely achievable in a home or apartment setting. VR Plus can be found a few hundred meters from Exit 1 of Gangnam Station. Everything is free to play, but expect a small wait on weekends.

14, Teheran-ro 4-gil, B1, Seoul | 02-1522-8999 | 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

RED VR 레드브이알

Should you find yourself over the other side of town, RED VR in Hongdae is more than well equipped to facilitate your VR needs. It’s a slick, modern setup with polished wood panel flooring all soaked in a red neon glow. A total of ten spacious stations are available with both Oculus Rifts and Vives, along with an enormous, two-player Top Vulcan arcade machine. A delightfully unique touch to the RED VR experience is the inclusion of their very own powder room. Hollywood style vanity mirrors allow those who smear their makeup in a headset a chance to make sure they’re looking sharp before heading back out into Hongdae. Station rentals are priced at KRW10,000 an hour. However, savvy players can accrue meaningful discounts by completing specific in-game challenges set by the RED VR staff. Be sure to check the daily missions board beside the café counter for details.

64, Wausan-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul | 02-322-7119 | 11 a.m.–11 p.m.

Monster VR 몬스터브이알

Significantly larger than any other public VR space in Korea, Monster VR is truly in a league of its own. Funded and facilitated by the Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, it offers a decidedly modern riff on the theme park experience, with all “rides” offered in the form of cutting-edge VR games. There are over 40 unique virtual experiences, with many designed exclusively for the location. Adding an extra layer of fun to the affair is the use of real world, physical contraptions like minecarts or boats built into the play areas. These have been constructed to correlate directly with what the player is seeing within the headset, employing motion, mood lighting and music to ratchet up the immersion. The ministry is planning to open similar parks in Gyeongju and Jeju sometime in 2018.

33-4, Songdogwahak-ro 16 Beon-gil, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon | 032-310-9676 | 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m.

Written by S. C. Clarke
Photographed by Robert Michael Evans

Camping in a secluded forest provides quiet shelter for a campsite.

Pitch your tent and get back in touch with nature

So you have the weekend free, and the weather is gorgeous — it’s the perfect time for camping! While camping in Korea can pose certain challenges, great campsites can be found when you get creative.

To find the best campsites, there are two main options. The first is to visit a designated public campsite, which will offer basic facilities like toilets, showers and a barbecue grill for a fee. While quiet and lovely off-season, these sites can get crowded, smelly and noisy during peak season months like September. The second option is wild camping: setting out for yourself in areas not specifically designated for tents. This month, we present the best of both options.

Note: Camping in national parks is illegal (for good reason!), but you can quietly camp in many other wild areas as long as you are discreet and respectful. Although you can’t have a campfire, a contained camp cooker or small barbecue is usually fine if you choose a safe and secluded spot.

Experience a beautiful sunset once you get out of Seoul, camping along the Hangang River near Yangsu-ri.

Camping along the Hangang River near Chuncheon

Beach camping

Along the peninsula’s many public beaches are a great place to camp and often excellent public campsites. Near pretty and quiet beaches along the East Coast, you can find plenty of commercial sites, while on the west coast, you can head to Muuido Island if you’re not too fussy about mud. Catch a train to Incheon, then hop on a bus or taxi to the ferry and you’re there! The island has a several paid sites.

There’s also the option to wild camp along the coast in a quiet area. Some people even camp on Korea’s main beaches, as long as it’s past the busy summer swimming season. However, on popular beaches, you will most likely be asked to move on.

Sokcho in the east offers some of the best beaches for camping. It’s easy to get there by intercity bus (make sure to book your ticket in advance for a weekend trip). From Sokcho terminal, the beach is just a five-minute walk. Simply walk a bit further up to find yourself a site.

A beautiful valley near Daegu, camping along the bike path to Busan

Quiet forests

While you shouldn’t try your luck somewhere as busy as Namsan, it is possible to camp in the city forest of Achasan. This writer has been there personally. Not wanting to brave insane Chuseok traffic, our family still really wanted to go camping and ended up hiking our local mountain to camp there. If you try it yourself, you may be woken up by early-morning hikers, but you’ll have beautiful views and peace and quiet in the evening.

Note though that in early spring, forests can get extremely cold and damp overnight, so make sure to bring very warm sleeping bags.

Along a river

Some of the nicest camping spots we have seen were along rivers, found during our own cross-country bike tours with our young son. During one such trip, we found what seemed to be a derelict campsite along the Naerincheon River, an hour or so out of Seoul. The river was crystal clear and great for a swim before setting up the tent. All went well, but at 6 a.m. we were woken by a persistent visitor. Wondering what on earth she wanted, we grudgingly opened the tent door. She gave us hot, toasted chestnuts for breakfast and reminded us to clean up when we left. Not bad!

As many a visitor have noticed, day camping along the Hangang River is also hugely popular when the weather warms up. When evening rolls around, it may seem easy to just go on camping straight through the night. Indeed, a fellow cross-country bike tourist that we know camped along the Hangang River during his trip with no problems — but the key is definitely discretion.

For more tips about camping and other outdoor adventures, check out Emma and Jarrod’s blog at www.koreanrooftop.com.

Written by Emma Hall

Photographed by Jarrod Hall

Southside Parlor

Drinks for you and your little dog, too

These days, Seoul is obsessing over honsul, a word that means “to drink alone.” But while we’re all for the peace of a solo drink, it’s also a relief to grab a glass with your best friend – or, even, with man’s best friend. That’s right: many of the city’s watering holes are opening themselves up to dogs. And we don’t mean dog cafés, those fur-covered (though lovely) dog playgrounds that happen to sell smoothies. We’re talking about real bars, with real menus, and dogs are allowed to come. So grab a leash, make sure Fido remembers “sit” and “stay,” and go out for a drink with your dog.

Hongdae: Hipster Hounds

The colorful, musical student neighborhood of Hongdae was home to one of Korea’s first big, popular dog cafés, Bau House, which in its early years was the hot destination for Seoul’s dog lovers. In Bau House’s influential wake have come human restaurants that are friendly to canine companions. One of the best-known is Patio D, an Italian joint with a short but carefully curated wine list. The first floor is for humans only, but small dogs and people can dine together on the second. Larger dogs are welcome on the open-air rooftop, which looks out into a view of the street below.

Itaewon: Wild and Free

The diverse, colorful backstreets of international Itaewon are home to much of Seoul’s foreign community, and that community’s beloved pups. As a result, many of the terraces in and around Itaewon won’t complain if your well-behaved dog happens to sneak along with you for a round or two. But there are some bars and restaurants that make a point to welcome dogs of all kinds.

Patio D

Phillies

Near Gyeongnidan, cocktail masters Southside Parlor have a Puppy Night Special every Thursday night on their spacious rooftop. Humans can get discounts on wine, and four-leggers are free to run around the whole fenced, faux-grass space. Meanwhile, over in Haebangchon, dogs are always welcome at neighborhood pubs Phillies and Hair of the Dog, adding to the homey atmosphere. Dogs are also free to browse the wares and enjoy the music at Hidden Cellar and The Workshop, a bottle shop and pub operated by the same owners.

Gangnam: Canines with Class

South of the river, it’s a dog’s life. Gangnam boasts what seems to be the country’s highest concentration of veterinarians and “dog hotels” (i.e. babysitters for when you’re away) per square mile. You can’t swing a cat without hitting at least one animal hospital or groomer filled with tiny, pampered pooches.

Gangnam also has plenty of room for dogs in its bars and restaurants. Hotel Cappuccino in Nonhyeon made waves when it opened offering canine-friendly “Bark Rooms.” Dogs are also allowed on the terrace of Cappuccino’s first-floor Caffé. The gate there closes to the street, preventing any tailwaggers from wandering off while their owners enjoy a beer. On the other side of the neighborhood, Hey Cotta is a restaurant that serves both dog-lovers and dogs delicious dishes – steak, pasta, and even a dog-friendly coffee are on the menu. Owners sit at tables, while dogs lounge in crib-like pens. Note that the pens likely won’t contain big dogs, or talented jumpers.

Café Kudeta

Meanwhile, at Apgujeong’s Rodeo Street, you’ll find Café Kudeta, a casual eatery that serves pasta, salad, churros and beer, and was one of the first in the neighborhood to allow dogs inside. Nearby, gourmet roastery Mark Lane Coffee has another dog-friendly terrace with secure fencing so dogs can run and play. Around the corner from that, Gyemong Bottle & Tap House has room for dogs on its patio – the owner himself is said to be a dog lover. And of course, when all’s eaten and done, you and your furry friend can take a walk together at Dosan Park, one of the loveliest spots in Gangnam.

Hotel Cappuccino

Written by SEOUL Staff

Photographed by SEOUL Staff

We interview Yann Cavaille of Pute Deluxe on rooftop parties, Seoul’s nightlife scene and Itaewon’s brand-new club, Soap.

Yann Cavaille has been a fixture in Seoul’s nightlife on and off for the past seven years. He first came to Korea in 2010, to travel, and ended up playing at “every kind of venue here you can imagine.” He now is one of the masterminds behind the event planning-slash-DJ crew Pute Deluxe, as well as part of the team behind Itaewon’s new It Spot, Soap.

The opening of Soap was a natural progression for Cavaille, his longtime DJ partner Julian Quintart, and their crew. Having spent years playing as a DJ collective across Korea and Asia, the group launched a series of rooftop parties in Seoul in the summer of 2014. The parties have since garnered somewhat of a reputation among partygoers on the peninsula, with attending artists including Hoody, Starro and Jay Park.

“We had 1,800 people at a rooftop party, at one point,” says Cavaille. “And a lot of them went on to an after-party at a nearby venue.”

“Being part of the opening of a new club this year just seemed like the natural thing to do. We already had a following, and we knew the local scene well.”

The past few years have been tough for the superclubs of Seoul, due in part to the tendency of young clubbers to expect free entry, and the general detachment of wealthy club owners to the real demands of the local industry. As a result, Seoul’s dancefloors — once some of the largest and most impressive in the world — have drastically shrunk, replaced by expansive VIP table sections in a last-ditch attempt to bring in revenue.

“Seoul’s club scene is not what it was back in 2012,” says Cavaille. “But that’s slowly changing again, thanks in part to places like Cakeshop.” Pute Deluxe are a staple behind the decks at Cakeshop, one of Itaewon’s longest-running underground clubs and a venue which has stoutly refused to bow to demands for endless guest lists. Soap as a club has followed suit.

“Of course at the beginning, when we were brand new, we invited people,” says Cavaille. “But on the whole, we expect attendees to pay to experience good music.”

“We don’t book artists only to bring people through the door,” he continues. “We bring in artists whose music we like. Ones that we want to see play, and that make us happy.”

In perhaps an unintentional hat-tip to musical longevity, Soap is on the site where once stood Club Moon Night: one of Korea’s first ever dance clubs and hot spot of Itaewon from the mid-1980s to mid-1990s. Moon Night was renowned for being a melting pot of the era’s dancing and singing talents, including Seo Taiji and R.ef.

Cavaille and his team hope to channel some of this iconic musical backstory, as the club offers patrons an eclectic yet high-caliber mix of global hip-hop, house and electronic music. Acts playing at Soap since its opening this past March have included Josh Pan, Full Crate, Tennyson and DJ Falcon.

Although it’s not always easy accommodating his partner’s increasingly busy celebrity schedule — Quintart was a regular guest on the now infamous “Non Summit” television show — Cavaille admits there have been benefits for the club.

“Julian’s popularity has definitely brought new customers through the door,” he says. “Although they didn’t come for the music, in a positive way this has actually allowed more people to discover the scene.”

Is Cavaille tempted to follow in his friend’s footsteps? “I’m not the face of Soap,” he laughs. “That’s not my job. I’ll stick to DJing.”

The month of June sees guest sets at Soap by Chambray, Mike Gao and Classixx. For a full schedule, visit the club website www.soapseoul.com or follow Soap on Instagram @soapseoul.

Written by Rhiannon Shepherd