Chef Ryu Tae Hwan brings an uncommon sensibility to Seoul’s fine dining scene

There has never been a better time for fine dining in Seoul.

International chefs and tastemakers continue to praise the city for being an up-and-coming powerhouse, and local chefs have been gaining in recognition at home and abroad. The iconic gastronomic guidebook Michelin just released its first guide to Seoul, giving two restaurants its coveted three-star rating. Chef Ryu Tae Hwan is at the very cutting edge of this culinary wave sweeping the nation, bringing his own unique sensibilities to the high-end restaurant scene.

Born in Busan, Ryu was encouraged by his marine biologist father to pursue a career as a chef. Despite getting a late start and not pursuing the field until his early twenties, Ryu quickly showed exceptional talent. Trained at Hattori Nutrition College in Tokyo, Japan, he moved on to work at prestigious restaurants, some with Michelin stars, in London, England and Sydney, Australia. His studies and work abroad brought him a wealth of knowledge and experience in contemporary cooking techniques, with French and Japanese food having an especially strong influence.

Fresh, local and seasonal

Ryu opened his almost eponymous restaurant Ryunique five years ago to almost immediate acclaim. It’s been included in the new Michelin Guide to Seoul and on Diners Club International’s list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, marking Ryu as a rising star.  Featuring locally sourced ingredients from Korea, refined techniques and the occasional molecular gastronomy flourish, Ryunique has established itself as one of the most interesting fine-dining spots in the city.

Specializing in hybrid fusion foods, Ryu focuses on uniting culinary techniques from Europe and Japan with the best of Korean ingredients: “I want to use local specialties. Freshness and seasonality are key, so I change my menu each season. I also meet directly with the producer of each ingredient I use – fishermen, foragers, farmers. It’s a very deep relationship,” says Ryu.  He pulls out a map marking where each key ingredient comes from, pointing to different parts of Korea with enthusiasm as he extols their virtues. “The beef comes from here, the pork from here, the shrimp are here, our potatoes come from here . . . I go to each place directly to work with the producers and try the food. Salt, kimchi, I’m always looking for the best, checking their freshness and thinking about their seasonality. That’s what I really want to show people – every season the food changes.”

Tweaking the senses, evoking emotions

Ryu’s plating and presentation in particular have drawn raves for their creativity. His dishes often seek to replicate natural shapes and forms, hiding themselves among foraged stones, moss and leaves. Smoked chestnuts are turned into delicate dumplings, topped with honeycomb and then placed back in their husks on a plate dressed with real moss and leaves to look like a forest floor. “I foraged all of these with my team in a forest in Ansan,” says Kim to explain the plate, and indeed, it looks exactly like the forest floor in fall. In another dish, kimchi is cooked three different ways and sculpted into a dragonfly, served perching on a stone, or a dessert that looks like a rock is hidden among a pile of real river rocks, forcing the diner to use their other senses to find the treat.

But Ryu’s food is more than a means to thrill the senses. It’s meant to evoke emotional responses and express his own experiences, drawing on memories as diverse as his mother’s home cooking to his travels abroad.

“I get my ideas from the environment, my travels. I lived and worked overseas for many years, serving under different chefs to develop my techniques and skills. I also try to go on trips every season and have different experiences. Then I distill those elements into one plate.”

A vocabulary of food

No matter where people enjoy his food, Ryu remains dedicated to presenting the best of Korean flavors, married to contemporary techniques that bring those to the forefront. “The food is complex to make, but the goal is to give off very simple flavors,” he notes. In one dish, a mound of parsley comes with dry ice drifting from between the leaves, and a few slices of deep fried potato topped with more parsley, hidden among the fresh herb. The presentation is dramatic, and the combination of earthy potatoes with the fresh, herbaceous bite of the parsley is unexpected, but the dish has a shining simplicity to it as well, with distinct layers of flavors that also meld together. It is where Ryu’s philosophy on indigenous ingredients becomes manifest: “We want the natural flavors of things to shine through.”

For Ryu, food is more than just a set of techniques and flavors though – it’s a way to relate with people.  He reflected,  “When I lived abroad, I didn’t speak English that well. But even if you can’t speak the language that well, a chef can communicate through food. It’s an instinct.  I have a vocabulary of food that helps me communicate.”

Ryunique 류니끄

Sinsa-dong 신사동
40, Gangnam-daero 162-gil, Gangnam-gu,   02-546-9279

Written by Jennifer Flinn
Photographed by Greg Samborski

Chef Chang Jinwoo transforms the hip Gyeongnidan district

Chang Jinwoo is a man of many talents. Trained in traditional Korean music, he’s also worked as a professional photographer, but it’s his talent at creating unique dining spaces and special meals that helped make his name. Starting with a small restaurant in Gyeongnidan, Chang expanded to become one of the best known restaurateurs in the city, despite having no formal training or background as a chef. An entire alleyway in Gyeongnidan is colloquially known as “Chang Jinwoo Alley” because it is filled with his culinary entrepreneurship.

Food as art

He’s a man who always has food on his mind, seeing it as an extension of his art. “I really love to eat. I also think that when you think about businesses, restaurants have an especially deep impact. In art, it’s sad, but however good your pictures are, they can be discarded in such a short time. But food lasts a lifetime. To me, food and photos are both a way to create something piece by piece over a lifetime, and that process is something I enjoy deeply.”
“I’m a person who really cares about the design of a space and the music, too. You can make a collection out of just speakers. When they see me, other people think I’m crazy. ‘Why’d he go and get all those expensive speakers to set up here?’ Well, I wanted to, and that’s how I made ‘Grand Bleu.’ I’ve gathered these things for decades in order to create a store that I love. I brought the lights from abroad, and the plates and silverware, too. That’s how you create a store with its own special flavor.”

Creating flavors from the exotic and familiar

Those special flavors are something Chang puts extra effort into creating. “I look for the freshest and most delicious exotic ingredients available at any given time. For example, to make pasta vongole, I go to Noryangjin Fish Market in the early morning to pick the most interesting and best seafood to serve to guests that night.”
“Recently, I used wild mussels from Ulleungdo and shrimp from Dokdo. Those are pretty rare ingredients that you’re unlikely to just come across. We added a little seasoned soy sauce to the mussels and changed it into a Koreanized Sicilian-style risotto. Then we took the plump shrimp, and after really taking a good long look at them, we decided to mix them with rice for this delicate sweet and savory flavor.”

How to set the scene and create success

His style of restaurants is unique, drawing both from his idiosyncratic tastes and his wide experiences of travel, which is why Gyeongnidan was a natural home for his first forays into creating a restaurant. “It’s like my hometown, where I first gathered the money to start and get my hands on a place. But the real charisma of Gyeongnidan is that it’s a multicultural space. I really felt like trends were being created in this neighborhood,” Chang says. More than that, his restaurants have a positive relationship with the surrounding people. “We aren’t loud or open for long hours. I think this is how you win over the people in the neighborhood. We close our doors by 10:30 every night and aren’t open in the daytime.”
Chang’s model for creating restaurants is both unique and remarkably clear. “From the beginning, I was motivated by the way businesses operate in Europe. It’s a place where you can just slip out for a glass of wine or beer in the evenings and then happily go to work the next day. I just wanted a place where I could close the doors, call all my friends and eat wonderful food together.”
Chang’s other secret is his commitment to ethics. “My business philosophy is clear: First, you have to create employment. Second, you have to provide a good environment for your employees, where social engagement and sharing is encouraged – there’s no real minus to this model.”

Chang’s Kitchen 장진우 식당

Gyeongnidan 경리단길
40 Hoenamu-ro 13ga-gil, Yongsan-gu
070-8160-0872

Written by Jennifer Flinn
Photographed by Dylan Goldby

Chef Minji Kim of Min’s Kitchen adds a modern touch to Korea’s seafood tradition

Few people in Korea are better positioned to expound the delights of dried pollack and stewed mackerel than Kim Minji. The soft-spoken chef has become one of the most successful interpreters of Korean cuisine for both domestic and international audiences, combining traditional Korean dishes with modern inspiration and plating at her restaurant, Min’s Kitchen.

Coming back to Korean food

Kim didn’t follow the traditional route on her journey as a chef. Having grown up in Daegu, her large extended family often ate together. Kim recalls, “I’ve always loved cooking from my early days. We had lots of people in our family, and so I had lots of chances to learn and cook.”

Becoming a chef wasn’t on her radar yet, however. Instead, she went to Europe to study music. As she lived and studied abroad, she found herself longing for the foods of her childhood and ways to share them with her new friends. When she returned to Korea, she embarked on a new career that let her share her love of Korean food, including a series of cookbooks, TV appearances and several restaurants specializing in modern Korean food.

The flavors of fish

Surrounded on three sides by water and fed by several major rivers, Korea’s population has depended on the ocean as much as the land to sustain its people.

“We have so many ways to eat fish. We’re surrounded by the sea and that means we’ve developed so many ways of cooking fish and creating diverse flavors – dried, spiced, grilled, stewed.” She elaborates, “Of course, fried fish is really common, but there’s also other methods like half-drying that create a really wonderful texture. You can ferment it. You can salt and preserve it, like jeotgal.”

Kim’s time in Europe sharpened her sense of the difference, both in types of fish preferred and their preparation, between Asia and common western dishes. “In Western cuisine, fish is usually served without its head or bones, and it often has a softer flavor than in Korean dishes. They just enjoy the flesh. In Korean food, it usually comes out whole, including the head. There’s a lot of diversity in fish dishes around the world, but Korean fish dishes tend to be spicier and more heavily seasoned. It’s especially delicious when you salt and dry fish partway, because it helps intensify the flavors and give it a really pleasant chewy texture.”

Kim Minji’s fried flatfish

This dish calls for ban geonjo gajami, or semi-dried flounder.  Halibut, sole, plaice, dab or any other similar flatfish can be used. Look for the semi- or half-dried versions at your local fish vendor, traditional market, department store and large marts. The half-dried fish still has some of the moisture and tenderness of fresh fish, but takes on a more intense, almost buttery flavor. There’s no need to bone the fish – the frying process turns the bones crunchy and edible.

Ingredients

• 1 semi-dried flatfish
• 150 grams (1 cup) potato starch
• A mild-flavored cooking oil suitable for frying, such as soy, canola or grapeseed
• Salt and pepper
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges or slices
• Parsley (optional)

Make sure the flounder is clean, and remove the head. Cut the fish into wide strips, and toss each piece in the potato starch until well covered. Fry in oil for approximately ten minutes, until the outside is very crispy, turning occasionally. Remove from the oil, drain and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with lemon wedges and dress with chopped parsley. Chef Kim recommends serving the fish with white wine or a high-quality, higher-proof Korean liquor like Hwayo or Munbaesul.

MIN’S KITCHEN 민스키친

Sinsa-dong 신사동
B1, 651-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu
02-544-1007

Written by Jennifer Flinn

Photographed by Dylan Goldby

Yongjoosa‘s Templestay program is a chance to reflect on what kind of son or daughter you‘ve been

Buddhist temples are a good place to learn about yourself.

At Yongjoosa Temple, however, you can also reflect on that most Korean of values: filial piety.

Nestled away on a hillside in the rural town of Hwaseong, just a stone’s throw from the city of Suwon, Yongjoosa is called the “original temple of filial piety” thanks to its unique history closely intertwined with one of the most tragic events in the royal history of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910). Located immediately next to a royal tomb and surrounded by beautiful forests, the grounds are a great spot to get away for a weekend to not only learn about a 1,700-year-old Korean tradition but also to spend time reflecting on life, yourself and those most closest to you.

A Dutiful Son Builds a Temple

Although a temple has stood in Yongjoosa’s location since the days of the Silla kingdom, today’s temple was built in 1790 at the behest of King Jeongjo. One of the most progressively minded kings of the Joseon Dynasty, Jeongjo is most famous for ordering the construction of the magnificent city walls of Suwon’s Hwaseong Fortress, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Long before then, however, he was the son of Crown Prince Sado, the central figure in one of Korea’s most heart-wrenching tales. When Sado was a young man, news reached his father, the long-reigning King Yeongjo, that he had been menacing members of the court. Some claim he was deranged, while others believe he was the victim of a political conspiracy. Either way, Yeongjo felt an obligation to protect his subjects from his heir, and thus his son would have to die lest he assume the throne in his own right. By law, however, the king could not kill his son with own hands, so he ordered Sado to climb into a giant wooden rice chest, which was sealed up and placed in a palace courtyard on a hot summer day. It took eight agonizing days for the crown prince to die.

Sado’s young son grew into one of the finest kings to rule Korea, but he never forgot what happened to his father. In 1789, he moved his father’s tomb from Yangju, north of Seoul, to Hwaseong, close to the new royal capital he was building in Suwon. Next to the tomb, Jeongjo had a Buddhist temple constructed to protect the royal resting place and pray for the soul of his departed father. This temple was Yongjoosa.

When Jeongjo died in 1800, he was buried with his father at the Hwaseong site. The tombs, now known as Yungneung and Geolleung, are still there today and, together with all the other Joseon Dynasty tombs, are registered on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites.

Yongjoosa is home to several relics related to King Jeongjo and the devotion he showed to his father. In the temple museum you’ll find the so-called “Sutra of Filial Piety to One’s Parents,” a tablet carved in 1796 at the behest of King Jeongjo as an act of gratitude toward his parents. Also worth seeing is a period painting of a procession to Prince Sado’s tomb.

Forested Tranquility

Perhaps because it is attached to a royal tomb, Yongjoosa possesses an atmosphere quite unique for a Buddhist temple. It’s part of two worlds—this and the next. Like a royal shrine, the temple is surrounded by thick forests of fantastically twisted pines and towering oaks. In the early mornings and late afternoon, when the forest is penetrated by golden rays of sunlight, it’s a magical place to be.

As with any large Buddhist temple, Yongjoosa is composed of several courtyards surrounded by wooden halls where images of various Buddhist deities are kept. The most important of these buildings is the Daeungbojeon, the large main hall of the temple. Dating from the temple’s founding in 1790, the hall has maintained its original appearance despite several restorations, and also houses several exquisite Buddhist wall paintings. The Cheonboru, a raised pavilion under which visitors must pass to enter the main courtyard, is equally spectacular. Be sure to seek out the space under the pavilion, as it offers inspiring views of both the Daeungbojeon and an old stone pagoda in the temple’s front courtyard.

Experiencing Buddhist Life

Yongjoosa’s weekend Templestay program is a popular one with both locals and international participants thanks to the temple’s beauty and its proximity to cultural hubs like Seoul and Suwon. Program guides are quick to point out that you need not be a Buddhist to take part, and participants come from all faiths and walks of life. In her introductory address to new participants, Dae Hyun Sunim, the Buddhist nun who runs Yongjoosa’ Templestay, explains that the ultimate goal of the program is to find one’s “true self,” a quest easier said than accomplished.

The two-day program is similar to offerings at other Buddhist temples throughout the country. After arriving at the monastery, participants change into loose-fitting Korean clothing and sit for an introductory lesson on basic Buddhist etiquette, most importantly on how to bow properly. This is followed by a tour of the temple. As to be expected, dinner is vegetarian in accordance with Buddhist principles, but meals at Yongjoosa are especially hands-on, with participants taking turns serving rice and soup to other participants. The evening is dedicated to chanting and sitting meditation before the lights go out at 9 PM.

Early next morning, participants get up in the pre-dawn hours to hear the tolling of the temple bell and congregate for morning chanting. This is followed by one of the highlights of the program, the 108 bows, an intensive form of training that’s meant to lower oneself as a first step to respecting others and building self-confidence. After breakfast, there are chores to be done, walking meditation on the forested hill behind the temple, a Buddhist handicraft program and a conversation with the monks over tea. Participants head home around noon.

How to get there:

GO> From Byeongjeom Station병점역, walk out of Exit 2. Go straight until you get to the  main road and take a right. Catch Bus 35-1 and get off at Yongjusa Station. The bus ride should take around 20 minutes. From the bus stop, follow the signs to the main entrance of the temple. The walk from the bus stop to the temple is about 55 meters.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

In Korea, some of the most interesting and popular things to see are the traditional markets. Every city has them and some of the country towns and cities will have a weekly or biweekly market in the city squares where you can get the freshest produce, livestock, and other things you get direct from the farmer instead of some middleman. It is as fresh as it gets. The sheer cornucopia of products Korea has to offer will amaze you. The best part is that all the markets have great food stalls where you can eat at.

Here are some of the markets you should check out if you come to Seoul.

[box_info]Eunma Market   대치동 은마시장[/box_info]

 →Near Daechi Station

My favorite Seoul market is Eunma Market near Daechi Station. Built around the late 1970’s this market supplies most of the affluent Gangnam people who live in the nearby Eunma Apartments with their food. Because many people work these days, many restaurants and food stalls make ready-made meals so busy families can buy a soup, pick out a variety of side dishes and then just make rice at home and eat. It’s quick, simple, and healthy. They have some famous restaurants here, too, as well as famous kimchi dumplings, noodles, and pumpkin porridge. It has a number of the very best rice cake shops as well. I think what differentiates this market from others is that it is traditional, clean and modern. While many other markets in Korea struggle to survive, Eunma market seems to thrive. The food stalls are on the second floor. My favourite places to eat at here are Manna Tteokbokki which is famous for their assortment of tempura and spicy rice cake. There is a also a great steamed dumplings place that does tangy kimchi dumplings and black, red-bean stuffed bread. Probably the most famous place is the Eunma Calguksu restaurant that is always packed. Their menu is simple. You can get knife cut noodles (kalguksu), hand pulled dumplings (sujebi), or a mix of the two (seokkeoseo). It’s a hearty bowl and cheap (KRW 5,000). There is a spicy garnish on the side and some kimchi. It’s perfectly simple.

Eunma Market   대치동 은마시장

FYI> Monday-Saturday 8am–10pm

GO> Go out Daechi Station (Line 3) Exit 3

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[box_info]Gyeongdong Oriental Medicine Market  경동시장[/box_info]

 →Cheongnyangni area

 This is the most traditional Korean market in Seoul. The place is overflowing with herbaceous smells such as cinnamon, liquorice, jujube, mugwort and ginseng. The streets are filled with shops with wonderfully bizarre oriental ingredients such as dried milkvetch root, deer antlers, turtle shells and even dried lizards. Walking through the oriental medicine market reminds me of the witch’s cauldron scene in Hamlet. On the food market side, you’ll find stall after stall of the freshest Korean fruits, vegetables, nuts, fermented bean pastes and sauces, dried marine products, seafood and meat. This market is dedicated to the old Korean belief that food is medicine, so you’ll get a glimpse into the past. Now if you are hungry, in the basement of the food market side there are food stalls in the back. They serve simple lunches such as soups, stews and bibimbap. My favorite is Jeonju Shikdang (전주식당) because the chef makes all of her foods from scratch and she sources products from the city of Jeonju. I would recommend her bibimbap or her sundaeguk (blood sausage soup). It’s not a fancy meal, but it sure is delicious.

Gyeongdong Oriental Market 경동시장

FYI> Oriental Market 9am–7pm, Traditional Food Market 4am–7pm

GO> Go out Jegi Station (Line 1), Exit 2.

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[box_info]Dondaemun’s Food Alleys  동대문[/box_info]

→Dongdaemun area

The hectic fashion district of Dongdaemun needs fuel to keep everyone clothed. Luckily, there are plenty of food stalls that specialise in Korean food. Down these alleys you’ll find great fare such as grilled fish, chicken soup (dakhanmari) and even a few places serving dog (no, I don’t mean hot dogs). The most famous places down the alley serve grilled fish such as mackerel, flounder (gajami), knife fish (kalchi), and corvina fish (gulpi). There are a number of dakhanmari restaurants there as well. There are many “chicken-in-a-pot restaurants” but the two that are best known are Jinokkwa Halmae Dak and Wonjo Won Halmae Dakhanmari. In my opinion, I think both are very similar in taste but Wonjo Won Halmae has a slightly lighter broth and service is a tad nicer. Since Jinokkwa always has a long line out the door, Wonjo Won Halmae might not be a bad option.

Dondaemun’s Food Alleys   동대문

FYI> 10am–late

GO> Go out Dongdaemun Station (Line 1), Exit 9 and walk about 200 meters. Make a left after the IBK bank. Walk about 30 meters and then make a right into the alley or use this address as a reference: Jongno-gu Jongno 5(o)-ga 265-22

Written and photographed
by Daniel Gray[/box_dark]

Korean food might seem quite extreme to the uninitiated. Some might fi nd pork knuckles, blood pudding, head cheese, silkworm larva, and fish intestines to be disgusting, but to Koreans they are just another meal or snack and often considered delicacies. This issue we present to you some of Korea’s more adventurous eats.

(Insa-dong area)

The flesh of the deepwater monkfish is said to taste and have the texture of lobster. However, in Korea this fi sh is prized for it’s chewy meat and gelatinous liver. The bigger the liver, the more expensive this dish can get. Masan Agujjim in Nagwon-dong is famous for their chunks of monkfi sh in a spicy sauce stir-fried with bean sprouts and other veggies, a dish called agujjim. The monkfi sh chunks are chewy and gelatinous and full of fl avor, and the crunchy bean sprouts are very cooling. Koreans consider this deepwater fi sh a delicacy and love to enjoy the sauce with rice. I really like this place because of the quality of the ingredients, the sauce, and the simple banchan. The sauce is thick, spicy, and fl avorful, and they make an amazing fried rice with the leftovers. There are many imitators in the area, but you’ll know you found the right place when you see the place with the long queue.

FYI>                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              T. 02-763-7494
Hours: 11am–11pm
Price: KRW 38,000 for 2–3 people

(Dongdaemun area)

The French consider cuisses de grenouilles a delicacy and consume around 4,000 tons of these spry amphibians per year. Koreans don’t eat quite as many, but they do enjoy them grilled, fried, and as a liquid (usually steeped in alcohol). It is believed that frogs are rejuvenating and good for increasing strength. A great place to get frogs in Seoul is over at Yeonsuk Yanggochi Jeonmunjeom, which is a local haunt for lamb skewers cooked over coconut charcoal. It is nothing fancy and the service is polite. The diners are locals looking for a beer and a snack after work. Their lamb is the main event, but they have a very diverse menu that includes fried frog legs. Here you can get a large platter of our jumpy friends, which are simply battered and fried till crispy. They are seasoned with a bit of red chili, which gives them a bright heat. You don’t get the whole frog here, just the torso (which makes it easier to hold) and the legs. If you’d like to be dainty, you can chew the meat off the bones, but I found that you could just as easily eat it bones and all. The taste of the frog was like that of a chicken that had gone swimming in a clean pond. I can easily see frog legs becoming a popular snack at sporting events.

FYI>                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           02-2256-8831
Hours: 4pm–late
Price: KRW 11,000 for lamb, KRW 18,000 for the frog legs

I asked my Korean friends why they would want to eat something so spicy that it burns both going down and going out. They said that it relieves stress—they feel alive, and all the problems of the day burn away. Now the most popular clinic for this therapy—spicy chicken feet—is over at Hongmi Dakbal. Warning. The chicken feet here is uber spicy. It’s so spicy that your mouth will burn the entire time. I can’t really describe the flavor of it—it’s just burny. There is little meat on the chicken feet, and as you nibble, the heat ignites your entire head. The burn started from the corner of my mouth and went to my temples. From there it went to my forehead, and later it caused a sweat behind my ears. It was a painful experience, but it felt quite good after a bit. Pain so painful it is euphoric. To balance out the spiciness, the restaurant offers several different “cures.” The starch and sesame seaweed in “ugly” gimbap (motnan gimbap and jumokbap) will calm down the spice. There is also bindaetteok (mung-bean pancakes). My favorite fire extinguisher is their their steamed egg (gyeran jjim)—it’s like smooth custard, and holding it in your mouth will settle the burn. The other cure for the spice is peach juice. The pectin is believed to get rid of spice, and I have to say, it does work. If you are looking to enter a world of pain, I recommend you give this place a try.

FYI>                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         T. 02-545-2119
Hours: 5pm–late
Price: KRW 4,000–17,000

Written and photographed
by Daniel Gray

There is a certain dining etiquette when it comes to eating chicken that you should keep in mind in Korea. The legs are the prized part of the chicken, so they should be shared or offered to the most important person at the table. Wings should not be offered to a loved one lest they “fly away.” In the past, chicken needed to be prepared in a way to increase the nutrients, so it was often stuffed with rice and boiled in soup with oriental herbs, ginseng, and potatoes. It was also braised in sauces, roasted, and fried. Koreans love to eat chicken feet and gizzards; the latter is called dak ddongjip (chicken poop house). The chicken is also the animal believed to carry the soul, so you’ll often find them on old funeral caskets. If you are crazy for chicken, here are some places to try.

Chicken Soup for Your Korean Soul

Dongdaemun area

When you are in need of some chicken soup in Korea, I suggest you get some dakhanmari in Dongdaemun. This area has dozens of these “whole chicken soup” joints, and they all serve this rustic dish with subtle healing properties. Remember that in Korea, health is the most important part of a meal. That is why, when the broth is made, it is common to add Oriental medicinal herbs in the broth; in special cases, chef/doctors will even add deer antler and ginseng. The place where I feel healthiest is at Jinokhwa Halmae Dak. The broth has this lift of delicate herbs with a warming garlic note that is accented by the fresh green onions. Honestly, I think an IV of this broth could probably cure cancer. As the broth cooks the chicken, you use scissors to cut it up into chopstick-manageable pieces and then let the rice cakes and potatoes cook. The dipping sauce for the chicken is a DIY affair: you can add as much spicy sauce, mustard, and soy sauce as you’d like. After enjoying the chicken, leave some broth to make some fresh noodle soup.
This is a must-have taste experience while in Korea.

FYI>                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      T. 02-2275-9666
Price: KRW 18,000 for 2-3

Best Fried Chicken in the World at Hanchu

Sinsa-dong area

Hanchu has been called the top fried chicken in the world according to the foodie organization Chowzter. In London, it won Top Fried Chicken in their fast feast awards ceremony. The fried chicken here is encapsulated in a shockingly crisp batter that has an elusive peppery kick. Hanchu is the place where locals go to get their fried chicken desires fulfilled. The batter is a part of the equation, but so are the pork-stuffed green chilies that are fried in the same grease. These gochu go down crispy but leave a spicy undertone that makes you want to chase it with cold beer. The place has a greasy spoon sort of feel and almost seems out of place in the posh Gangnam area, but that is what adds to the charm. If fried chicken is on your bucket list of things to eat in Korea, then this should surely be at the top.

FYI>                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       02-3446-5778
Price: KRW 17,000 for 2-3

Boyangsik

Written and photographed
by Daniel Gray

Boyangsik | 보양식

Koreans have a saying, iyeolchiyeol 이열치열, which translates to “fight fire with fire.” This expression is true in Korean boyangsik cuisine. Boyangsik refers to rejuvenating summertime foods that are rich in protein, vitamins, and heat. Here are a list of foods that will help you fight the heat.

Chicken and Ginseng Soup Roundup

One of the most most celebrated summertime foods is chicken and ginseng soup, known as samgyetang 삼계탕. While it might be strange to eat a piping hot chicken stuffed with vegetables, glutinous rice, and ginseng in the midst of summer, it is surprisingly refreshing in the hot summer heat. You will find lines out the door of every restaurant serving this dish on the three hottest days of the year—chobok 초복, July 13th; jungbok 중복, July 23rd; and malbok 말복, August 12th. The debate over which restaurant serves the best version of this dish continues, but here is a list of some of the best samgyetang in the city.

[box_info]Tosokchon | 토속촌[/box_info] (Gwanghwamun)

This restaurant probably serves more of this dish than any other; you can expect a half-hour to one-hour wait on busy days. Set in a Korean traditional house, the atmosphere is rustic. The broth is milky and thick, the chicken is tender, and the dish has a fragrant ginseng smell. You can upgrade to black chicken or mountain ginseng for extra stamina power. Tosokchon is good, but I feel it lacks soul because of the high demand for the dish, and the chicken broth could be richer. Also, I wouldn’t recommend their roasted chicken, which I think is a bit dry.

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T. 02-737-7444
Open: 10pm–10pm
Price: KRW 15,000
(서울시 종로구 체부동 85-1 | 85-1 Chebu-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul)

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[box_info]Goryeo Samgyetang | 고려삼계탕[/box_info] (City Hall area)

Located near City Hall, this restaurant is a local favorite and is known for their clear chicken broth and high-grade ginseng. The chicken flesh falls apart as soon as you touch it with your chopsticks, and the broth pairs well with the fresh green onion. Personally, this is my favorite because of the clear broth. Their fried chicken is also one of the best in the city.

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T. 02-752-9376
Open: 10am–9pm
Price: KRW 15,000
(서울시 중구 서소문동 55-3 | 55-3 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul)

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[box_info]Mugyo Samgyetang | 무교삼계탕[/box_info] (Insa-dong)

This place has been in business for over 40 years, and they serve their old recipes the same way they always have. Service is curt. The soup is thick and full of ginseng punch. Their side dishes are very good here—I especially love the pickled ginseng. If you’d like something lighter, they offer a rice chicken soup. Although oldfashioned, they still seem to do it right.

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T. 02-734-4636
Open: 11am–9pm
Price: KRW 12,000
(서울시 종로구 관훈동 198-17 | 198-17 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul)

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[box_info]Catfish Stew and Roasted Eel in Nagwon-dong | 낙원풍천장어그라·참게메기탕[/box_info] (Near Insa-dong>)

Catfish is not ordinary boyangsik food. They are freshwater fish and quite difficult to find in Korea, but they are considered to be an excellent source of protein as well as rich in vitamin B-6 and B-12. At the local restaurant Pungcheon Eel and Catfish Soup (Nagwon Pungcheon Jangeo Geura Chamge Megitang) 낙원풍천장어그라·참게메기탕, the fresh catfish are cooked in a spicy chili-bean-paste broth with cabbage, turnip greens, and daikon. The heat from the spice is refreshing in the summer heat. The fish are a bit bony, but the robust broth goes great with rice and the numerous side dishes at the table. This restaurant is also known for it’s freshwater eel, which is also a famous summertime food. Eels are an oily type of fish that are high in calories, fat, and iron—perfect for letting your body recover from working all day in the summer heat. The eels here are covered in a thick, sweetened soy sauce—they are first broiled and then brought to the table on a hot plate to finish cooking. The eel is great when wrapped with fresh leaves and freshly slivered ginger. This restaurant is nothing fancy (the interior looks like it is from the 70s), but they do things the traditional way—with lots of side dishes and fast service. If you are looking to try catfish stew, this is one of the few places in the city to do it.

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T. 02-764-3322
Open: 11am–1am
Price: KRW 6,000–48,000
(서울시 종로구 돈의동 39-3 | 39-3 Donui-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul)

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Written by Daniel Gray
Photographed by Daniel Gray & Ryu Seunghoo

Majang-dong Ushijang: Beef Market

Majang-dong area

One of the wonderful aspects about Korean markets is that you can not only shop for food there but also take your food to restaurants and dine there. If you are shopping at the market, you can be sure that the food is the freshest possible. This is the case at the famous Noryangjin Fish Market and at Majangdong Beef Market. The beef market is large and expansive, and if you decide to take a walk of the market, you’ll see butchers cutting up beef and pork. It is not for the faint of heart, for all cuts are on display, from skulls and tongues to tails and brains. But if you are looking for top-quality Korean Hanwoo beef at a decent price, then this is the place to go. For a large platter of Hanwoo A++ grade beef, it would cost about KRW 50,000 a platter (about 800 grams). If you were to get the same grade of meat at a restaurant, it would cost about KRW 150,000 or more, and you wouldn’t get the selection you get at the beef market. After you pick up your meat, you should go to a restaurant to sit and cook the meat. There is a sitting fee of KRW 5,000 a person and drinks are extra, but overall, you could have a great beef barbecue dinner for about KRW 70,000. Although the restaurants are not as luxurious as many of the top restaurants, the meat is of comparable quality. You often have to get your own refills of side dishes, sauces, garlic, and leaves for wrapping. Also, keep an eye on your fire. If it starts spitting grease, it means that you need to call a waiter, as you could have a grease fire on your hands. Sure it is a bit rustic (and slightly dangerous), but it is an experience that you can only have in Korea.

[box_info]Recommended restaurant at Majang-dong: Dongbu Chuksan | 동부축산[/box_info]

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T. 02-2296-3903
Hours: 11:30am–12pm
Price: Cost of meat plus KRW 5,000 per person plus drinks
(509-5 Majang-dong, Seongdong-gu, Seoul | 서울시 성동구 마장동 509-5)
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Yongdu Station 용두역 (Line 2), Exit 4 or Majang Station 마장역 (Line 5), Exit 1

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Sogyeokdong Kitchen | 소격동부엌

Samcheong-dong area

For those looking for a local experience, I would recommend this Korean restaurant hidden in the alleys of Samcheongdong. The little restaurant is in a quaint Korean house and was designed by artists that wanted to offer homestyle Korean food on antique servingware with a good selection of traditional alcohol. Note, the place is small and sits about 15 people in total, and you’ll have to be comfortable sitting on the floor. The atmosphere of the Korean house is the main draw, but the food keeps up with the theme. It is a local eatery that only the hip and discerning know about. The menu is seasonal and simple. On cold days, you can order a mackerel kimchi stew or a dumpling stew served in a stone pot. In warmer days, bibimbap, a mixed rice dish, is available. For those looking to have some cool refreshing rice beer, makgeolli, they offer pan-fried delicacies called jeon with the drink. They have North Korean beer; Cheonju, a Korean liquor; sake; and Akyang Makgeolli, which is a specialty of the Sangju region in Gyeongsangbuk-do. This makgeolli is considered by many to be the best in flavor and freshness and has a light, effervescent flavor. All of their dishes come served with homemade side dishes like kimchi, vegetables, and battered and fried spam (a delicacy in Korea). The waitstaff are friendly, and the atmosphere is sublime. Sitting in this ancient house away from the busy world is a bit of necessary peace.

[box_info]Sogyeokdong Kitchen | 소격동부엌[/box_info]

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T. 02-765-4272
Hours: 11:30–3pm, 5pm–12pm
Price: KRW 7,000 for lunch, KRW 15,000 and up for bar food
(102-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 소격동 102-2)
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Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 1

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