With Great Cafes, Hidden Galleries and Rustic Korean Charm, Seochon Makes Case for Historical Conservation
 Seochon contains more than 300 of the 1,400 hanok that remain within the bounds of the old city walls, many of them tucked behind taller, newer buildings. In several neighborhoods, however, the narrow and winding alleyways of older Seoul survive. Described by some as the “capillaries of the city,” these passages are too narrow to admit cars. Bicycles, cats, pots of flowers and vegetables, playing children, and the occasional hanging laundry are instead their principal occupants. They are not visible from the outside, and those wishing to discover their charm are best advised to dive into as many random alleyways as possible. The houses themselves are concealed behind red brick walls, features of hanok that appeared in the early 20th century during the Japanese colonial period. Their wooden double front doors, with ornate metal fittings, occasionally open to reveal inner courtyards.
Wihang is a Korean name for these alleyways, and it was in the late Joseon period (1392—1910) that their occupants became known as wihangin. Wihangin are more commonly known as jungin, literally “middle people,” a reference to their position in society between fully fledged literati and commoners. Jungin belonged to a professional middle class of interpreters, doctors, merchants and other positions. In the late eighteenth century, several of them formed the Songseokwon Poetry Society out of a love of poetry composition and the bonds that formed between those that practiced it. “Songseokwon” means “garden of pine and rock,” and its three Chinese characters—song (松), seok (石) and won (園)—remain carved on a rock in today’s Ogin-dong. It was here that the Songseokwon Poetry Society used to meet, drink and compose verse. The carving was done by renowned calligrapher Chusa (Kim Jeong-hui) in a fat, thick-stroked style, apparently reflecting the influence of Chinese calligrapher and epigrapher Weng Fanggang during a sojourn in Beijing.
Seochon’s rich heritage also has roots in the early modern era: the hugely innovative writer Yi Sang (1910—1937) once lived here, as did Lee Wan-yong, the pro-Japanese government minister who signed the treaty that led in 1910 to the beginning of Japan’s colonization.
Conservation Plans
Seochon’s cultural heritage may be rich, but it has not proven robust. Several sites—Yi Sang’s house, the site where King Sejong (1397—1450) was born, and others—are now occupied by newer buildings and indicated, if at all, only by small stone plaques. It was only in late 2008 that Seoul Metropolitan Government commissioned a team of architects and academics to investigate the preservation of Seochon. The area has huge potential for restoration—one suggestion is the development of a historical and ecological walking route by uncovering Baegundong-cheon Stream, a waterway that flows down from Mt. Inwangsan and is currently paved over for much of its length. This route would improve and increase access to views from around Baegundong-cheon down into old Seoul. The area was once famous as one of Seoul’s five most scenic spots.
Not all residents are in favor of preserving these atmospheric neighborhoods. The prospect of redevelopment means probable rises in property value, bringing profit to home owners. Others would prefer to see the bulldozers graze in other pastures. “There aren’t many areas like this left in Seoul,” says Camilo Choi, trading manager of local coffee shop and roasting factory Coffee Gongbang. “Redevelopment could mean losing a part of Seoul’s unique identity.”
It may be places like Coffee Gongbang that add to the case for preserving Seochon and investing in restoration of its hanok. The more visitors come to the area to eat, drink freshly roasted coffee, and relax, the stronger the case for conservation.
Top-Notch Cafés
 And there are already plenty of good places to eat, drink and nose around in Seochon, especially in the neighborhoods closer to Gyeongbokgung. Across the road from the western wall of the palace is a row of galleries and cafés, culminating with Dimi. This “concept café” bakes its own bread, makes its own pasta dough, and bakes a variety of other cakes whose delicious smell grabs all but the most nasally callous of passersby and pulls them inside for a closer look.
Around the corner, heading straight away from the palace wall, is another road lined with more cafés and the attractive second-hand bookshop Gagarin. Alleyways lead off this road to the right, producing art gallery KunstDoc and more winding passages with vines climbing overhead. Further north, down yet another alleyway, is the tiny Italian restaurant Recipe. Reservations must be made in advance to enjoy fine European cuisine in this charming little hanok. Next to the main road lies Sympa, a small shop selling handmade leather items such as bound books and diaries.
Across the main road running north through Seochon are yet more cafés and restaurants, including the aforementioned Coffee Gongbang and the famous Tosokchon, an enormous restaurant complex of linked hanok famous for its samgyetang (a chicken stew with ginseng, jujubes, rice and chestnuts). Further into the neighborhood is Studio Bona, offering pottery lessons. The most charming parts of Seochon can be discovered by heading northward through these neighborhoods, following a random sequence of alleyways up the hillside. At a certain point, you will find yourself turning the corner to find magnificent views of Seoul spreading out beyond the rooftops.
Historic Altar
Another way to approach Seochon is by starting from Sajik Park, situated at the southwestern corner of the area. This is the site of Sajikdan, an altar where various highly important rites were performed by kings during the Joseon era. “Sajik” is a term referring to the god of land and the god of grain. In pre-modern times, Sajikdan was a crucial site of ceremonial state activity, like the Jongmyo shrine to the east. But while Jongmyo is well known, well protected, and on the UNESCO World Heritage list, Sajikdan has not enjoyed such glory in recent years. One Korean architect expresses his frustration with Sajikdan’s loss of status by describing Sajik Park as a “rubbish dump.” Restoration of Sajikdan is now underway, though, and the park is nonetheless a pleasant, leafy spot from which to begin a walk exploring Seochon.
Seochon has huge potential for development into a “cultural” district. In this city of constant change, one thing seems certain: the area will undergo change of one nature or another. In the meantime, set aside a long autumn afternoon for wandering its labyrinthine alleyways and enjoying its unique feel.
Written by Ben Jackson
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo
Places to Eat and Drink
Coffee Gongbang: Specializes in coffee roasting and has around ten seats for guests. Tel. (02) 725-9808
Dimi: A gem of a café/restaurant. Party reservations and baking to order also available. Tel. (02) 730-4222, www.cafedimi.co.kr
Tosokchon: Legendary samgyetang restaurant. Long lines can form at lunchtime. Tel. (02) 737-7444
Recipe: Irresistible little Italian restaurant, barely big enough to accommodate a baby elephant. Reservation required.
’S: Don’t even try pronouncing the name of this café. Just sit on its stylish Scandinavian furniture and enjoy the great coffee and lovely view of the palace wall. Tel. (02) 735-9888
Goghi: Another café/bakery on a quiet side street, near Recipe. www.goghi.kr
Things to Do
Gyeongbokgung Palace: Seoul’s main palace marks the eastern boundary of Seochon. Admission: 3,000 won, less for concessions. www.royalpalace.go.kr
Daelim Contemporary Art Museum: Specializing in photographic art, Daelim Museum is also located in an interesting modern building. Tel. (02) 720-0667, www.daelimmuseum.org
KunstDoc Gallery: Contemporary art gallery. Tel. (02) 722-8897, http://kunstdoc.com. Open Tue—Sun, 11am—6pm.
Pottery Lessons at Studio Bona: The studio is open Mon—Fri, 11am—6pm. Call in advance to book a lesson. Tel. (02) 733-8610
National Palace Museum of Korea: Everything you want to know about Joseon-era royalty and more. Tel. (02) 3701-7500, www.gogung.go.kr. Open Tue—Fri, 9am—6pm; weekends and holidays, 9am—7pm. Closed Mon. Admission: free until end of 2009
Follow an improvised route through the alleyways. No reservation necessary.
Getting There
Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3. Head north out of Exit 1, 2, 3 or 4 and explore!
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