The Ilmin Museum of Art Provides Seoul’s Very Center with New and Contemporary Korean Art

Stuck in between cubicled high rises, lulled in by car noise, cocooned by streams of people moving through underground tunnels and over aboveground road crossings, and topped by a super-sized flat screen TV showering bright commercials down on the passers-by, the six-story historical structure right at the corner of Taepyeongno and Jongno can be easily overlooked. Yet it is worth taking a closer look—in the Ilmin Museum of Art, the building houses one of Seoul’s finest venues reserved for the cultivation and presentation of modern art.

Nationalist Origins

Though the museum was only founded in 1996, the building itself was first erected in 1926 and served as the office for the Dong-A Ilbo, a daily newspaper established in 1920 by Kim Seong-su, a member of the elite in colonial Korea who later went on to become the nation's second vice-president in 1951. At that time, the office of the Japanese General-Governor was just down the road, and the newspaper sought to be near the center of power in order to set itself up as a nationalist press outlet opposed to the Japanese domination. The building, with its elegant yet very sparingly applied decorations and simple pearl-colored tile façade, was only three stories high and about one third narrower than its present width at the time of its construction. As the Dong-A Ilbo grew more and more in influence and size, it outgrew the structure, which had to be extended several times both in width and height. Eventually, the old building became too small, and a new, impressive structure was erected right next door: the current Dong-A Ilbo main office, housing the Presseum, a museum dedicated to the history of the press.
With the newspaper having moved out, new opportunities subsequently arose to make more original use of the space. Finally, in 1996, the Ilmin Museum, dedicated to one of the finest directors the Dong-A Ilbo had ever seen, first opened its gates to the public. After the most recent reconstruction in 2001, a new entrance area was added. This transparent lobby was made completely out of glass, allowing the visitor’s eyes to wander up to the very top of the museum, and represents not only a spatial extension of the museum but also a change in its essential mission. Old and new are linked within one body, with the transparent annex making art more visible, inviting pedestrians to steal a glimpse inside and museum visitors to look outside, diminishing any kind of barriers between people and art, everyday life and "high" culture.

Ilmin: Freedom Fighter and Art Collector

The original collection of the Ilmin Museum consists of 430 pieces. "Ilmin" was the pen name of Kim Sang-man (1910—1994), in whose memory the museum was established. Although he is now mostly remembered for devoting his life to the media, fighting for freedom of the press even during the authoritarian administration of President Park Chung-hee, he started his career with degrees in both mathematics and law while pursuing studies in Tokyo, London and Seoul, showing a true international spirit. After serving as director of the Dong-A Ilbo, he eventually became its president in 1985. Kim was also president of the International Press Institute for more than twenty years and held a number of other offices, some in foundations working for mutual understanding between the United Kingdom and Korea. Yet even with such a busy schedule, he always found the time to develop his interest in art, and he eventually made a reputation for himself as a passionate art collector. He focused on Korean arts such as porcelain, drawings and paintings, stemming not only from as far back as the Goryeo Dynasty (918—1392), but also from the Joseon Dynasty (1392—1910) and modern times.
Besides Ilmin’s exquisite private collection, the museum also owns about 1,200 exhibits that are in one way or another connected to the history of the Dong-A Ilbo. In 1933, for instance, it became the first newspaper to found a magazine specifically aimed at a female readership with its type set completely in hangeul. The many historical items owned by the company thus illustrate not only the history of the newspaper, but also the history of Korea in its struggle for independence and democracy. Last but not least, there are also about 100 pieces of contemporary art contributed by the Hyundai Corporation.
Displayed until recently on the third floor, the extensive permanent collection is now stored elsewhere and is inaccessible to the public, which fortunately creates more space for the four to five temporary exhibitions the museum organizes every year. Not all of this space is used for every show, making the portion of art taken in during one visit quite manageable and allowing for a more concise and intimate viewing experience.

New Focus on Contemporary Art

Only relatively recently, since its reopening in 2002, has the museum slowly shifted its main interest to contemporary Korean art instead of focusing only on existing collections. Inviting both renowned artists like Suh Yong-sun, who held a solo exhibition here in 2004 and was named Artist of the Year for 2009, and young artists who have not quite made names for themselves yet, the museum contributes to making the contemporary Korean art scene more accessible to the public and even gives not-so-conventional, experimental artists a chance to present their work, too.
Besides the artwork, the museum also houses a documentary archive, providing the public with an opportunity to easily access important documentary films and video art. There is also a library and lecture rooms, where the museum engages in art. The website of the museum can be consulted for those interested in signing up to use the archives and participate in the lecture programs. A small art store is located on the ground floor, selling books as well as stylish and very unique handcrafted mugs and hand-painted fans.

From Politics to Culture

Designated Tangible Cultural Asset No. 131 by the City of Seoul, the elegant, historic structure with the modern, inviting glass extension remains as a pearl in the bustling center of Gwanghwamun. The structure does a good job of exemplifying the change the area has undergone—once the political center of the city and the whole country, with the press right at its threshold, it is now instead a hot spot for tourism, shopping, recreation and culture, with the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts and the Kumho Art Hall just a stone’s throw away. The city’s redevelopment plans continue taking one huge step after another, and not only the Cheonggyecheon Stream, with its greenery offering eye candy amidst the usually dull cityscape, but also the large, newly-opened Gwanghwamun Plaza invite visitors to take a stroll or rest awhile after this intense modern art indulgence.
For those who need even more invigoration, Café imA is famous for its delicious waffles, served with the one and only Häagen-Dazs ice cream. The filling sandwiches and hamburger steaks also have a good reputation. These treats are best enjoyed during the week, though. On weekends, arriving completely famished is not recommended, as the waiting list sometimes gets so long that the hungry need to wait for one or even two hours for a free seat—a perfect waiting time to fill by taking in some art.

Written by Gitte Zschoch
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Additional Information

The museum is open daily, except on Mondays, from 11am to 7pm. The café and shop are open daily, except for national holidays, from 10am to 10pm. Entry fees vary according to the exhibitions. For more information, visit www.ilmin.org or call (02) 2020-2055.

Getting There

Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 5 is the most direct way. From City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, take Exit 4 and walk for about 500 meters. Parking space is available in the Dong-A Media Center next door. Address: 139 Sejong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-050.

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