Incheon Bridge and Palmi-do Island Symbolize Korea’s Future and Past

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Seoul’s port and the world’s primary door to Korea, Incheon is very much a city rushing to the future with one leg still firmly planted in the past. If the colossal Incheon Bridge, a wonder of the modern engineering world, represents Korea’s tomorrow, the historic island of Palmi-do, whose lonely lighthouse has guided ships to and from Incheon for over a century, symbolizes its storied yesteryear.

Earlier this year, Palmi-do finally returned to the bosom of Incheon after 106 years of colonial deprivation and military secrecy. Cruises to the island, which take tourists past the recently completed Incheon Bridge, make for an excellent day-trip from Seoul, especially in winter, when the bracing ocean wind rolling off the whitecaps of the winter sea rejuvenates body and soul. Combining one of the country’s newest scenic spots with one of its oldest, few locales capture the dichotomy of today’s Korea better.

Now THAT’S a Bridge

On Oct 16, Incheon Bridge—linking futuristic Songdo New City (currently under construction) with Incheon International Airport—officially opened up for traffic. The world’s seventh longest bridge at 12.3km, it is a truly awe-inspiring sight — it’s said its imposing towers are, top-to-bottom, as tall as Seoul’s landmark 63 Building. Its central span hangs some 74 meters above the waves, high enough to allow the passage of the mammoth supertankers and container ships that go to and from the bustling port of Incheon. A mega-project in every meaning of the term, the behemothic cable-stayed bridge took 52 months to build at a cost of US$1.4 billion.

Assuming you don’t have a private aircraft, there are two ways to see the bridge properly—by driving over it or from a boat below it. Driving over the bridge can be an exhilarating experience that provides some jaw-dropping views, although the lack of observation platforms or rest stops does mar the experience somewhat. It’s also expensive: one-way toll for the bridge is 5,500 won (11,000 round-trip). Moreover, if you’re taking a taxi from Incheon’s Yeonan Pier (and if you are going to/coming from Palmi-do, you probably are), it’s a long ride, and the fare comes out accordingly—you’re looking at about 25,000—30,000 won to get to Incheon International Airport, where you can take the bus back to Seoul. On a positive note, even with the lack of true observation platforms, there’s a small area where tourists—including taxis—like to stop to take in the bridge in all its majesty, especially around sunset.

Seeing the bridge from below might be an even more thrilling experience. All the boats to Palmi-do pass under the bridge; in fact, it’s one of the highlights of the trip. From the deck of a boat, you gain a true appreciation for the bridge’s mammoth—almost dizzying—scale. Even tankers seem dwarfed by it. In the background looms the gleaning skyline of Songdo New City, punctuated by the nearly completed 68-story Northeast Asia Trade Tower.

Korea’s Oldest Lighthouse

The waters off Incheon are home to many islands, but few as charming as Palmi-do. Located 15.7km south of Incheon Harbor, the small island was, for 106 years, a sensitive military zone off-limits to civilians. It's still sensitive, in fact — the island’s only residents are ROK Navy personnel stationed there — but on Jan 1, 2009, the government re-opened the scenic and historic spot to tourism.

Atop the 60m hill that is the island’s chief topographic feature stands Palmi-do Lighthouse. Well, two Palmi-do lighthouses, anyway: an old one that dates from 1903 and a new, much larger one built in 2003. If you, like this Long Island-born writer, are a fan of lighthouses, this should be a pilgrimage site. A short but sturdy structure with the elegant beauty so characteristic of architecture of its period, Old Palmi-do Lighthouse was completed in 1903 and designed by a Japanese engineer in the employ of the Korean imperial government, with money borrowed from France. Korea’s first modern lighthouse, it guided ships to and from Incheon harbor for a century until, in 2003, a new state-of-the-art lighthouse was completed right next to it. During the Korean War, a joint CIA—military intelligence commando team landed on Palmi-do and restarted the lighthouse, helping guide UN forces to the shore in the dramatic Incheon Landing on Sept 15, 1950.

The new lighthouse, while not nearly as historic, houses a museum dedicated to the lighthouse’s history (complete with mock-ups of the CIA raid and Incheon Landing!) and a splendid observation deck from which to take in the surroundings. The walk up to the lighthouse from the pier takes you past a couple of other sites of interest, including Millennium Plaza, a small park with good views of Incheon Harbor (including Incheon Bridge) and Songdo New City; an outdoor exhibit of world lighthouse history; and a small, Japanese-style structure that once served as the lighthouse office and, since Korea’s liberation from colonial rule in 1945, has been used by the Korean navy as a Sunday chapel, making it the country’s smallest church.

Getting There

Boats to Palmi-do depart from Incheon’s Yeonan Pier—get off at Dongincheon Station (Line 1), take bus No. 12 or 24 and get off at the pier (or take a cab). Hyundai Marine (http://palmido.co.kr) and Hyundai Excursions (www.partyboat.co.kr) operate boats that depart from behind the Hyundai Excursions Building, a short walk from Incheon Passenger Terminal. Hyundai Marine runs two cruises a day (10am, 1:30pm) on weekdays and hourly boats (10:30am—3:30pm) on weekends. Hyundai Excursions runs three boats daily (11am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm) on weekdays and three (11:30am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm) on weekends. IMPORTANT: Weekday cuises are subject to demand. The trip to the island takes about 50 minutes, during which time you’ll be entertained with live music and/or dance performances. IMPORTANT: Once you reach the island, you’ll have about an hour to look around before the boat returns to Incheon. If this isn’t enough time, you might get a tour guide to let you take the next boat back, but be sure to ask first.

What to Eat

Palmi-do has no restaurants—or even coffee machines, come to think of it—so be sure to bring a roll of gimbap or, even better, a thermos of something hot—it gets quite cold and windy here. You can buy drinks and snacks on the boat. The boat also serves up plates of sliced, raw flounder for 15,000 won. By Yeonan Pier—well, all over Incheon, really—you’ll find many seafood restaurants (the nearby Incheon Seafood Market is worth a look, too), and if sea creatures aren’t your thing, Incheon’s famous Chinatown does some of the best Chinese food in Korea.

TIP: Christmas and End-of-Year Cruises

Hyundai Marine offers several potentially fun and romantic evening and night excursions to Palmi-do to mark Christmas, bid good-bye to 2009 and welcome in 2010. Check out their website (http://palmido.co.kr, in Korean) or call (032) 885-0001 for more details.

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